Nexus21

Hello again folks,hope you are all well. Well split minute decision and bought a mk3 vrs estate in black yesterday so now I have to sell my mk2 vrs estate,also in black! Im toying with buying a whiteline rear arb along with 40mm H&R springs as I fitted 1 on the mk2.Excellent mod on the mk2. Can anyone recommend it please for the mk3 5e? My finger is hovering over the “BUY” button🫣 Thank you

Hi folks hope you are well pushing and pulling I can find no way or walkthrough on the internet how to get these out as in the photo below They have stopped working months ago and I miss them. Thanks for you help

Hello all and hope you are well. 1Z5 2010 vrs estate FL Took put both my complete headlight units to replace all with Nightbreakers and to hopefully see if I could see the issue with my headlights not adjusting and blinding on coming traffic. Heres the unit,the right one had the writing on the control module the right way up,The left unit tho is upside down! It has 3 screws that hold it in place but these seem to line up properly….. A photo of the right side here. part number is 7L6941329B Thank you for your help

Hello folks,Hoping you are well. As above,I’ve replaced the radiator fans connectors but still codes are coming up for short circuit etc.So thinking to remove most of the wiring to te connectors feeding the double radiator fans. Anyone know of the correct gauge please? Thanks so much in advance.

That is excellent advice JR I will test the oil pressure when I can this week,using the Us pro gauge kit I bought. The dipstick was reading fine after checking a few times over a fortnight before I did the oil change. Is there a vcds method to show the oil pressure in the vehicle? I have a photo of an oil leak that has been in the car for over 6 months- it looked like it was coming from a small figure of 8 metal washer,off the turbo. I changed this months ago but it is still there.Not as bad niw that I have done this oil flush/change but still there.Wonder if it is related?Also changed the rubber diaphragm on the pcv valve on top of the engine months ago but that was dry as it should be. Ive now done 3 maybe 4 oil changes with 5w30 since owning the car - 10k miles since I bought it. A great help,I appreciate it a lot .

A quick update and many Thanks to Breezy Pete and The Client. So I was prepared to drop the sump,clean out the oil pick up tube/mesh and then re silicone the sump back on and instead of my usual 5w30 fully synth,try out 5w40. I then read about an engine flush having very good results without the need to drop the sump. (I have no affiliation to the product btw) Liqua Moly Pro-Line engine flush. I fired a can of this into the oil filling hole,with a pre-warned up 1st engine then ran for a further 20 mins. Let it cool down for 1/2 hour then dropped the old oil and let it drain over night too. Filled with the new 5w40 fully synth. Engine is running like a pussycat. No low oil pressure codes,no amber ECP light on the dash.Exhaust pipes seem to be somewhat cleaner too. Gave it a good bit of welly on a 2 hour drive each way for work and good to go👍👍 So there you go.One happy camper. Hope this might help someone in future and Thank you again for your help and expertise chaps. A great forum for sure.

This may….. help others who are willing to dismantle the fans before spending over £200 on new ones…. Similar twin fan systems on our cars Worth a go, I reckon should only take an hour or so to do. Good Luck 👍 https://www.myturbodiesel.com/d2/1000q/a5/radiator-fan-repair-jetta.htm

Thanks Sir. The EPC light comes on when I put the foot down,even front a spirited take off from standstill. Kids are home now so this episode will have to be put on hold until hopefully later this evening. Will report progress when I make some

Hi chaps and great research and responses thank you very much. Yes Pete is correct in that photo,just under/near the oil filter.one on top of each other with brown on top abs blue under it,there are 2 oil pressure switches. I attach photos of the parts I swapped out as 1st port of call as they are cheap. I do have a ccza engine. Here also is the £18.50 US Pro oil pressure gauge I also bought. I added some Liqua Moly pro line engine flush to the oil and let the engine run for a good 20 mins. Let it all drain out incl overnight. Today I’m going to remove the sump to thorough clean it out and also remove and clean the pick up/suction pipe before I then add 5w40 instead of my usual 5w30 official Vag oil. We will see if that gets rid of this pesky Amber ECP light( not Red oil can) dash light. As I’m hesitant to drive it much further if it really is low oil pressure. Great news on the aiming for oil pressures at certain rpm.Thank you. I will take a gauge reading on the removed Brown sensor port as it’s easier to access after I have put the new oil in. I will report back soon. A great help guys thank you very much.

Right chaps and ladies. So I’ve just received a US pro oil pressure gauge via Amazon- it looks the part tho was cheap 👍 My issue is I have 2 replaced by me last week oil pressure switches(One Brown and underneath it,a Blue one) So which one for the test?? Also I do not know the correct oil psi for a Skoda Octavia mk2 vrs.I’ve looked all over the net. This morning I engine flushed and then drained the not that old-4K miles oil. I intend to remove and clean the oil sump and pick up tube next just for peace of mind. This all generated from the amber ECP light on dash abs having checked with an OBD it keeps showing after clearing- low Oil pressure malfunction. Thank you in advance

As always Pete.You legend.Thanks again. Like the new username Sir 👍

Oil pick up pipe with the gauze not pump Thanks

Hello everyone and I hope you are well. Due to changing out both brown and blue oil pressure switches and still getting a low oil pressure ECP amber warning on the dash,I’m thinking to drop my oil sump to clean it out. Id like to swap out(if it even has one??)the oil pick up pump with the gauze in it which is inside the sump. Only problem is I cannot find anywhere on the net. So I thought I would hit up the trusty Briskoda Forum to hopefully help out with a part number. I’m also going to change out the oil and filter again so that will be the 3rd time doing that since I’ve bought the car 9000 miles ago. Thanks so much.

Hello folks hope you are well. So yesterday I changed out the brown oil pressure switch.On M25 motorway runs these past few days the ECP light came up on dash.Cleared with OBDeleven as it was showing “malfunction”.Got 5 miles further and up it popped on dash again.Repeated and again After the new part fitted,it came back on again on motorway this morning. I have read to clean the oil pick up and strainer…. Also maybe change from 5w30 to 5w40 oil. What do you think and also is this a difficult task? I attach some photos from a few weeks ago that also could be relevant to this.I did change out this Garat?Metal washer but oil is still weeping from the turbo oil feed/return area. Thanks so much and enjoy your day. Kev

Royal Enginners that is 😉

Thank you MicMac After a bloody full day under there I got the ball joint replaced. The 3 nuts were locktite on so I had to angle grind through them 🤬 Anyway tho it is slow,an open ended 19 spanner can slowly work the top nut on the ball joint off for removal.So no,the driveshaft does not need to be removed for ball joint replacement. Had to re grease the squeaky as f**** polyurethane console bushes I fitted only 8 months ago. Never again for polyurethane for me. Took them out and coated in lithium grease,everywhere. Hope that helps someone in future.

Hello chaps I hope you are well. I have the drivers side wheel off but it looks like the top nut for my ball joint replacement is very close to the driveshaft cv joint. Please tell me it’s do able without removing all that gubbins! Thanks so much

Thank you yes I have seen that after more investigation. Its 1 k0 407 366 c,just 1 number different than the left hand one. On second thoughts,I’m pretty sure the other Moog is still attached to the old wishbones in the shed.I swapped these out when fitting poly bushes. The wishbones have a L or R stamp on them for sure.Just gotta get a days work done before I can get home to check. Thanks again Wino

Thanks once again Wino,you are a wealth of knowledge. Those part numbers have led me on to finding the cv joints although I have on inspection last night,found a torn ball joint that I’m hoping is the only easy fix problem…. I do have in the shed,a Moog ball joint that came off my car a year ago it’s stamped 635 but does not have L or R stamp on it.Google didn’t help much and I’m hoping they weren’t sided so I can swap it out with he drivers front diff one. Thanks again Have a lovely day

Ok.Only the drivers side had a sticker which I have peeled off it’s 1K0 407 272 RE Having been under just now,fingers crossed,it’s just a drivers side ball joint is gone after all! Thank you chaps. Ps are ball joints sided?? I have a moog one in the garage but there is no L or R stamped on it….. Thank You again

Thank you chaps. Im putting it up on the ramps on the drive now and will report back Btw engine code is ccza

Hello folks I hope you are well. As above,even on eBay completed items plus through out google,just nothing coming up at all! Very weird. The car is 2010 an 1z5 vrs mk2 octavia estate Thank you very much in advance.

Hi Nige you are a legend for following this up Sir i will get into it at some stage today and get back to you 👍