Nexus21

I’m under there now,it’s reversed up on to the ramps.It totally looks do able by only removing the inner bush bolts on the rear control arms….. will it go wrong? Thank you MicMac,you are a legend

Hello all. As above I would like to remove my rear control arms to fit poly inner bushes. As the jack points are like cheese and they have crushed every time,I’m hoping I may be able to reverse up my ramps on the drive and remove the control arms like that. Is this possible?? I’m thinking to get a jack under the arms and slowly lower them like that…. This morning is D-day,sick of the crashy back end abs want to get aligned(yet again!!) Thank you for your time

Great help thanks so much MicMac. got it in the end with the help of a VAG sensor clip tool. The diaphragm was fine/not torn after all but was peace of mind to check it. There is an “Audi PCV diaphragm “ video on YouTube also to help anyone in future.

Hello all and I hope you are well. I have bought a repair kit for the PCV valve (AH) revision. Does anyone know how to remove the round disc part so I can replace the gasket and spring inside please? it has various grey clips underneath,thought I could spin it loose but no dice. Thanks so much

I’ll have a day off tomorrow so will get the front up on ramps and use a mirror and torch and have a good look. Thank you for your help guys.From what you say,I think I won’t be dismantling! I have ordered an oil return to turbo gasket that is also weeping.This looks really easy to swap out-2x6mm hex bolts. I understand this is a common point of weakness in these engines(Ccza) or the EA888 engine VAG group. Thanks again for putting my mind at ease.

Wow! Brilliant idea! I will do that and monitor it. Could save a ball ache!

Oh jeez I’m not sure.The mechanic told me I had a rocker cover oil leak at the back, when he was changing out my front wishbones the other day. Id better investigate it myself over the weekend and get it up on my ramps. Thank you very much.Also the part number you have provided has been really helpful too.I’m hoping it’s just that part as you say it sounds easier to rectify. Thanks again

Hi all i have found out my leaking rocker cover has a leak although I understand I cannot buy a new gasket for it,just a complete new cover.? Sounds expensive …… Is it possible to remove the cover and repair with high temp silicone instead?Something like Victor Reina gasket sealant. Thanks

Thank you very much,you’ve saved me time and money.

8 years later… I’m asking the exact same question 22.5 or 23.5mm poly bushes for a 23mm vag front anti roll bar please? Been searching for hours on net (I have here now 23.5mm poly bushes for the used 23mm roll bar I’ve also bought) Thank you

Hi folks. I have just bought a 23mm front anti roll bar so I can fit poly bushes and do what I hoped,a straight swap for the 22mm one on my 2010 vrs estate. Just seen on the net someone mentioned needing different drop links…. But cannot find any more info ref this. I do have new drop links already to go on with the new front poly bushes complete wishbones I am also fitting. Any help is much appreciated as this car has been up and down on ramps and mechanics cash more than a lady of the nights knickers. Cheers P.S I have rear whiteline ARB fitted. Cheers again

Hello to anyone interested in fitting either oem or poly bushes to the front anti roll bar. it IS possible.I found this article today on how to do it. Cheers

AJ77 or anyone?? I’m in exactly the same predicament,removed all the bolts in situ yesterday and then realised the bush bracket is welded so cannot open it on a hinge to remove the old bushes and replace with poly ones. Does anybody have a solution please? I was expecting this to be a 30 minute job tops! Thank you

Hello everyone I cannot measure as I don’t have the car at the mo. What are the poly bushes size I need to replace the standard ones on the front anti roll bar. Thank you very much

Aha! That would make sense,as also on my vcds,the cooling fans,both 1 and 2 keep coming up now, too. I was going to upgrade the fans…. I have looked everywhere for this sensor,spent hours trying to find it including online. My car is a petrol Mk2 vrs estate.Will it have an egr valve? Do you have a photo of this sensor please? Many Thanks again

Hello there. Yes this is an ongoing issue,4 original sensors and a rewire and still showing on vcds as faulty but the car does not overheat at all,always bang on 90 on the gauge. Thank you very much. I will look into your findings,If it solves the issue I will post up for people in the future who may need that help.

Ah Wino,you have come to the rescue once again! much Gracias!

Hello folks and I hope you are well. I’ve been trawling the net for ages with no definitive conclusion. My rear exhaust has a hole in it.I would like to replace myself on the drive but cannot find the correct part numbers,I may go secondhand also so maybe the golf mk5/6 or others from the vag range will also fit?? Its a 2010 face lift vrs estate. I really appreciate all help. Have a lovely day.

Ah. I was really hoping to find a regular block relay,swap it out and Bob’s your uncle,working rear wiper with washer jet😞 If I was brave enough to remove the remapped ecu I would.I have been waiting for a week now for postage to arrive of micro probes to attach to my multimeter probes. But I think I will have to bite the bullet and get an Auto Electrician to run a new ecu-coolant temp sensor 2 wire armoured cable and be done with it. Spent a good chunk of today making 2 new threads in my hubs due to this new “mechanic” who managed to impact wrench mis-thread 2 holes for my longer wheel bolts for spacers.One bolt flew out on a 500 metre test run!! A fantastic tip I found on YouTube saved me a fortune buying and having to have fitted 2 new hubs..... I hacksawed 1/2 way down,right down the centre of the bolt toward the radial head of my bolt. This left a slot through the middle of the bolt about 2cm deep. Cleaned out with a rag the holes then a shot of wd40. Took a while of very slow and nervous hand turning with a 17 socket and ratchet. Got right up to the hub with the radial head on the bolt and it was torque tight.Slowly backed it out by ratchet again,wiped the slotted bolt down with wd40 and onto the next mess of a thread. Phew! Finally!! As of today,Since owning the car mid November I am now on Vogtland 35mm lowering springs and Bilstein B4 shocks and wheel spacers all around with the new Whitline rear Arb on the back.And it’s safe to test drive!! Yet another alignment in a few days after it settles after the new “Mechanic” failed to inform me whilst he had the car a full week for new front strut fitting that the front springs were off some tractor or other not even a Skoda by looks of things with the coloured dots configuration!!! You can see my previous posts about the up n down like a Whores knickers suspension woes over the past 6 weeks..... So as you can see,I am loathe to let any “Mechanic” at my cars/vans if I can help it and do the work myself but that ecu safety cage I’ve read about makes me nervous to do a simple continuity test to the 2 wire coolant temperature sensor I have cut off the connector of. On the rear wiper front I think if there is not a simple relay I can replace then I can live with it only working in reverse.I’ll pop a silicone blank in the rear windscreen motor hole come mot time( Not 100% sure it would be an Mot failure....) At this stage now I just want to drive the bloody car! I hope the cutting new hub thread saves someone on here a few quid.Just take it slow and sure,maybe every 4 tightening turns,bring it back a couple and then continue the full length of the bolt home toward the hub Fantastic help you have been Russ Thank you so much. Maybe tomorrow I will have another fresh look at it? For today I have had my fill of car problems.

Righto.Sounds a lot easier than ripping the dash apart No clicking from stalk tho.........

Found Wino’s ecu-coolant temp sensor for anyone in future

Good morning to you Sir I hope you are well. Yes I have a new 15a in slot 41.I put a 15a in slot 42 also just to cover those bases. No clicks from the drivers right stalk. I do really think it a relay issue now. If I can again slip outside and start tearing the dash apart that is my next port of call for sure. Wino has already been a fantastic help with regards the pins ecu- coolant temp sensor(Yellow and brown) I don’t feel confident removing the ecu after reading horror stories on here though I am more than comfortable doing a continuity test on rack of those wires to see if I get 5v on my now cut at radiator end sensor cable. Gotta go- wife is not impressed -I’ve already had the front wheels off and spacers fitted today!! chat soon thank you very much again

Wow.That's all I can say for the effort you have gone to help me on this gremlin. When I bought the car mid nov I knew it would need a suspension overhaul, on sticking Carista on it,a still unresolved coolant temperature sensor issue-hence hardly driving it in case I damaged the engine plus the wiper not working was bugging me lastly. So in trying to rectify the coolant temp sensor(Fitting 2x new Genuine ones) but still no dice I changed out every fuse I could find apart from the 2x50amp maxi fuses in the FB box( Engine next to battery) I also bought a new 70amp relay(I have 2 of these in my engine fuse/relay box. They are both marked as “100” on the top.Juggled and swapped but no change. This non working coolant sensor was also sending the fans crazy and draining my battery. 2 times in succession after a full 35hrs re-charge it drained the battery over night. Ive since cut the yellow and brown sensor connector wires and joined with a new connector and still no joy. So re-fitted all blade and mini blade fuses.Same. I dismantled the FB box without disconnecting all of the black/red feed cables,prised it apart and there was about a tablespoon of water in between the layers of this box,got a hairdryer and blasted the whole lot for 10 mins. Water was also present in the 3inch? Wide black connector that feeds the radiator fans underneath the front body’ of the car.Electrical contact cleaned and hairdryer and the fans have been silent until 2 days ago. Clutching at straws and against all fight in me, I bought a new battery 096 battery,as i didn’t know the age of the original one, by chance I heard the bloody fans again yesterday even tho I’d not driven the car!Removed the neg battery connection. So tomorrow’s task was going to be strip the FB box completely and hairdry it full on, in sections. I can see straight away from your Haynes wiring diagram and photos I took of my own fuse layout in the FC fuse box(Drivers side right panel) That I have a correct 15a fuse in FC42. FC11 ( 5a) is blank/no connection on my car tho I do have at least 2 for “trailer” further down in the fuse box. I think I will have to admit defeat and find an Auto Electrician to open up the ECU, after I have peeled the wipers and scuttle off for him and ask him to re-run 2,fresh wires from ecu to coolant temp sensor.At least the car cooling system will work. Cars are fun but time consuming. Ask the wife 😂 I will report back You’re a Legnd Thank You.

Hello again Russ and I really appreciate your help. No Sir,zero click when pushing the right stalk forward. Funnily enough it was only the early hours of the am when reading various posts on here that I found out there is yet another relay box under the steering wheel(Comfort control I think it’s called) Id better spend a little bit of non car stuff time with the wife and 4 month old today but 1st light in the morning I’ll be out the gap!! Do you by chance know what relay number that will be for when I rip it apart please? Again Thanks so much to you

Thank you both gentlemen and I hope you are well today. Oh I hadn’t noticed the boot lights(Circuit) not working,this is a new to me car- I’ve currently got a mobile mechanic out in the snow fitting 35mm front lowering springs to match my fitted back ones! I will have a check out when I can today. Yes front wipers work perfectly as they should. Checked all possible windscreen contortions with Carista App. Just to reiterate I have,since stripping the estates rear wiper motor and greasing up the parts,fitted a brand new one so that’s also not working from the drivers right stalk- nor the washer motor or wash fluid at all. I really appreciate your time and knowledge everyone-again,fantastic forum. I will report back when I’ve done some more research.