Kharl

The problem is, here in this country, i don't trust a bit in the quality of that kind of jobs. Here is VERY common to open a engine and to assembly back with out following any torque specification, people here swears the know better than the manufacturer. Thats why there is no way me to repair the engine despite EVERYBODY here (my country) keep telling me that. If the engine is overheating, pam!, remove thermostat and if t continues overheating putt all the fan full speed, direct with the ignition key at all the time, all suspension parts are tightened with the car raised and the insist that is right, if your car is old, no matter how pristine or low mileage is, if you take it to the oil shop, they will put a 50 grade oil without even telling you that, just because it is a rule of two here, if the car is old, need a thicker oil 😡😡🤦🏻‍♂️. No matter if it is a cheap mechanic or a "professional" that is what you get here, you could have a luck and find a decent mechanic; maybe 2 of 1,000 Thats why i fear to rely in local mechanics for that kind of job. Most of the jobs are done by me. Ok, as son i get it i will post it

Would it worth to get that Octavia one and to replace the parts that differ with my Fabia engine parts? Will it keep the same fuel economy?

Ops, mine is gone :-/

Where can i read the engine code in the engine itself?

Cordoba and Ibiza, hard to find here, Polo SDI little less common than the Fabia.

Hi! i am having hard time looking for the same engine in my country, local repair shops insist it is the same engine of the Octavia 1.9sdi but i have heard that the injection pump is different, some connectors too, is that true? if the engine fits without any issue, all the same, will it keep the same fuel efficiency? will the computer and the little screen that shows me the fuel consumption endurance and all that, work? my car smokes a lot (oil) but i am extremely happy with its efficiency, it gives me steady 2.7L - 3L for each 100km. The engine a guy is selling me is from a 2006 1.9sdi Octavia, i will be within an hour to see it, what do you guys suggest me?

the problem is there yet, any suggestion?

Oh, never mind, i already got the answer about topran brand in another post from this great forum. Topran = China in western package lol

Hi guys! i have to replace the belt tensioner of my 2002 Fabia, but i have a doubt, some aftermarket parts are way better than the OEM due some upgrades in flaws encountered and those things, the dealer has the genuine ("updated version" , mine is 038903315T and they have the 038903315AH) at the same price of a Topran branded one. How good is Topran?

https://youtu.be/ElxTct66nTk

The problem is back, like if i woul have done nothing, a little bit less severe

excellent. i will use that for referece, ill see if i get that box to complete the job later. Regarding the cut wire, yes i will fix that in another round, probably in January. one thing to do, the problem is almost gone, i say almost, because in some moments the problem is back, but only for 20-40 seconds, for example, yesterday i was all l the day out, and wen parking the car at home i did notice the issue, but it feels like if something was causing that big draw of current.

Yeaj i was thinking about doing it with a shorter wire, that will be for the next roundm Regarding the cable going underside, i will gice it a look and see ig i can put it there.

worried about that, just yesterday i bought two fire extinguishers, one for the trunk and a second for under my seat. noo kidding, look!

Problem solved! the wires from alternator to battery and to fusebox were very bad and the connectors, replaced all that and problem gone!! Thank you!!

ufff good news! i went to a store near home that sells electrical equipment and they had the special tool for the clamps in the wires you suggested me, i decide to make a stop there to install and organize the wires and wen i finish an di turn on the car, voila!, problem gone!

Thank you ! i did organize all the fuses in the battery area *the best for now( and i did remove the power cable to the pump, i was able to confirm it because the steering light and the hard steer, and no luck, the problem still there.

i see no fuse for that, in mine the fuse box has no fuse for it.

never ever would imagine that! i guess, the test is simple,, to put it out of the system, right? i guess that with removing its fuse, right?

And that could justify the ver warm battery cable since i start the engine. Please tell me more about it! what is PAS?

Hi! yes, i did that, and still the same.

they lock and unlock problem, was a broken something inside the key lock barrell and need to reprogram to the system work properly still pending to check wires regarding the idling... what ever it is, the voltage goes up and down

vacuum leaks apparently does not affect in that way, because when i purchased the car had all sort of leaks, i had to replace and fix mani hoses and leaks, the brakes were very bad, and when that the idling was good, so no vacuum related to that idling problem. i plan tomorrow to remove the intake part and to clean it all.

Thank you, ok i will check and let you know tomorrow

i am sceptic too but it is directly related to the idling, i mean, rpm goes up and dow with the lights and the voltage... i dont know really.. oh oh, i also forget to mention, the car have a service inspectionmessage, and he says the scan tool told it is related to the throttle body