OneSlowBoi

Maybe try and get a small pin and try to clean the washer jet nozzle. I had an issue with my Mk2 Octavia where the rear washer jet got blocked (common problem) used pin to clean nozzle and worked fine afterwards. You can access it by taking off the rear plastic cap on the wiper arm and then you have access to the nozzle which can be easily taken off. For the front nozzles I'm not sure how to fix them as I've never had any issues with them but I'm sure you can try the same pin method to clean them.

wow, I didn't know that 😅 Interesting 🤔

I've used Carista V6.7 beta 3 to do it but any version should work. It's under beta settings. I don't condone piracy but you can get it for free if you know where to look online.

After testing a lot of LED Bulbs I've finally done the full LED upgrade with no Canbus Errors! The fog lights I've used are the Auxito M3 H8 LED Lights. They are pretty bright and I don't have that drive battery voltage code which is great so no loud cooling fan anymore lol Paid £36 for them but I think they are well worth it and I highly recommend them if you're looking at getting fog lights for Mk2 Octavia. My cars battery is on trickle charge if you're wondering... Ebay Link that I bought from - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185585719053

Hi @Radiogaga Yes Carista does have an option to turn off cold diagnostics bulb checking only if you opt in for the beta release. I use Android so I don't know if it applies to iPhones but I'm sure it's similar. I think VCDS has the same thing in Central Electrics Long Coding but I am not sure as I don't own VCDS myself.

ok, so I replaced my LED indicators back to original halogens P21w to test to see if I have any faults while my front fogs are on like before. And although I didn't get any fault codes for indicators (which is expected) While having the fog lights on, when I increase my revs to 1500rpm and back to idle, the idle rpm then increases from 800rpm to 1000rpm and then cooling fan goes on full. I got that p01598 Drive Battery Voltage code again and also a new one p02195 Instrument Panel Light Dimmer Switch (E20) After restating the car again, I can then erase those error codes. So it seems to me that the Auxito Q16 LED bulbs that I'm using for my front fog lights seem to mess up with the Drive Battery Voltage and throws an error as they maybe drawing too much wattage from the car. I've now put the ARGO LED Indicators back in and put the Halogens back in on the front fog lights and have had no issues. I do have another H8 LED Bulb which I used by Nighteye but they are not error free however despite that, they don't have issues with the Drive Battery Voltage (probably due to them drawing less wattage and having no load resistors) But I'm not going to be using the Auxito Q16 anymore as the load resistors seems to give issues... Auxito Q16 - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185535671644?hash=item2b32c9ad5c:g:rqgAAOSwRtJi9mfp

I actually have LED lights installed on my main dipped beam and have had no errors but from what I've found, the rest of the lights have bulb check monitoring except the rear sidelights and mirror indicators.

Hmm, maybe it could be due to Carista not showing that option. I'm planning on getting VCDS so maybe that may show cornering lights as an option. I'll probably take a look underneath my steering wheel so see what CECM module I have and take a photo of it 👍

Thank you so much @langers2k👍 I guess that explains why I don't have options like cornering lights for my vehicle as that works only on BCM's and I guess that explains why a lot of videos I see where people have turned off bulb diagnostics were done with VAG cars newer than 2009. What I'll probably do is replace my led indicators back to halogens and see if I have any issues and I'll update you guys on where I'll go with this 😅 My fog lights have built in load resistors in the bulb itself which is good as I have no errors with those but it's odd how just by turning on an indicator for a few seconds can cause the cars cooling fan to turn on at full speed. Here are the LED fog light bulbs I'm using currently https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185535671644?hash=item2b32c9ad5c:g:rqgAAOSwRtJi9mfp ARGO LED Indicators that are giving issues https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133929873450?hash=item1f2ed7b02a:g:byoAAOSw--BhjErD

On my Octavia, my rear fog light is like that when turned off in the photo however when I turn it on, it illuminates like a normal bulb. It seems odd that you're getting an error, maybe try resetting the code using an OBD reader?

You are probably right @langers2k, but what's the difference between a BCM and a CECM? Do older VAG cars use BCM? and do the newer ones use CECM module? Or are they completely separate units? Sorry I'm a total noob on this 😅 I don't have VCP at the moment however I'm looking at getting it as I have seen this video on YouTube showing how to configure the BCM module on a VW Scirocco with the PQ35 platform that the Octavia Mk2 is based on. On the video, it shows a tickbox about diagnostics, is that for bulb checking or am I completely wrong? 🤔

@FGYPG70I think you might have to remove the Stream Radio out of the car and dissemble it. Your only other option I can think of is to get another stream radio from a scrapyard for better buy an android radio from Aliexpress like what I did and you'll have Navigation and Bluetooth Streaming.

Thanks for helping @Ken0Neill but I haven't ran into any issues with the brake and reverse bulbs. They work without any errors and I think I paid £40 for both of them. I suspect it's down to the indicator bulbs as that's what it shows on the OBD Scan. I hope someone can help me out who knows VCP to tell us how to disable bulb checking. That would really help. 😅

@pikpilotNo I haven't got them enabled. What's odd is that I don't have an option for cornering lights in Carista. I think that is due to the fact that my car was manufactured in 2006. As far as I believe, models made in 2007 have cornering lights as an option.

Hi everyone A couple of months ago I decided to do a full LED Upgrade to my 2006 Skoda Octavia mk2 Elegance. I replaced the main beam with Auxito Y13 High Beams were replaced with Auxito M3 Fog Lights replaced with Auxito Q16 Front & rear Indicators were replaced with ARGO LED P21w Reverse Lights replaced with Chinese LED Bulbs And brake lights were replaced with another off brand Chinese Bulb All lights work perfectly with no issues however for some odd reason, when I have my main and fog lights on and I turn on my indicator, after 4 flashes I get an error and it seems to get triggered when I have my steering wheel turned to the direction I am indicating to. But this is the weird part because the issue only seems to happen while the car is moving and not stationary. I then get an error code on my turn signal bulbs I used (which are Argo LEDs) and with that another error code 01598 Drive Battery Voltage comes up. My cooling fan then goes on full blast for no reason either though my cars engine is cold and not up to temperature, and it's diesel too... I have used Carista to turn off the cold bulb checking sequence which means I get no bulb errors up until I physically turn on the bulbs. The LED indicator bulbs work perfectly without the fog light on so when I indicate, I have to turn off fog lights, then indicate as a workaround. I would love to turn off the warm diagnostics on the bulb checking as I think that is partly the issue for my problem. Can somebody tell me if that is possible using VCP? (Vag Can Pro) So I am only thinking this could be due to the load put on the electrics when the car is moving? Please share some light on this lol

Hey Skodafans! I'm wanting to respray my plastic trim on my MK2 Octavia to colour match my cars paint to make my car a little nicer to look at. Has anybody done this? I presume Heat Gun and Dental Floss, String or Fishing Line is used to remove the trim off the car? Also how easy is it to remove the trim on the front bumper? Or would I need to replace the whole bumper from a VRS Octavia? And then once it is off, use 100 Grit sandpaper to sand down the trim and then spray with, in my case Brilliant Silver paint? See Image below on the trim I'm talking about. I would appritiate if you guys can give some light on this, Thanks.

@jule5n Interesting 🤔 My guess could be that VAG at that time were more focused on producing the newer 2.0 TDI PD / CR engines compared to the old 1.9 PD. They might of had engineers who were new trainees making them but left the more experienced technicians to assemble the 2.0 TDI? I don't know 😅

Sorry guys ASZ I meant, thanks @Wino 😂

Hey! From what I know, the BLS engine replaced the BXE in late 2008 which allowed it to use a DPF as BXE's don't have that. I have an assumption that it could be down to a production issue (from factory) as VW used something called "Fracture Splitting" which is more cost effective to make a conrod for an engine. Mind me asking @lod1995luke when was your car made? You can find this by taking off the fusebox cover in the engine bay and there is a sticker that tells you the production date. My Skoda Octavia MK2 BXE was made on the 22nd November 2006 so I think I might be safe as from what I read up, the issue seems to affect 2007-2008 production years.

Hi! 👋 I know this fourm has been inactive for a few months so I thought I would say hello and give my opinion on this. I own a Skoda Octavia MK2 1.9 TDI BXE, mine was built on 22nd November 2006. As far as I know, the dreaded conrod issue seems to affect mostly Volkswagans, Seats and Audis from production years of 2007-2008 however I heard that BLS can also throw rods too. I believe the best way to prevent it from happening is to use Fully Synthetic 5w40 engine oil and to change oil and filter every 5k miles (8000km) as unlike the older TDI's these engine are very fussy on the oil they use. I see on fourms that people use 5w30 oil and I believe that viscosity is too thin for BXE. I also think driving style affects it too as 80% of engine wear happens when the engine hasn't reached operating temperature. The BXE isn't built to be driven hard all the time. ASY PD130 is more of a tough engine that can handle such abuse because crankshaft is slightly different in design. BXE doesn't have piston cooling jets (I think) but ASY has so that could be another factor. I do think it could also be down to production too (from factory) I'm sure if they made loads of BXE's there surely will be a small batch that went through without precise testing / quality control? So I want to ask all of you BXE owners, could you all possibly share your actual production dates of your cars? Like the actual day it was made? You can find this by taking the fusebox cover off and there is a sticker in there that tells you the day the car was made. My car was made on Wedensday 22nd November 2006 Doing this, we can then get a more accurate assumption of it was a production issue or not. Many Thanks OneSlowBoi ☺️

Hi! I own a Skoda Octavia MK2 1.9 TDI BXE same as yours, mine is a late 2006 build. As far as I know, the dreaded conrod issue seems to affect mostly Volkswagans, Seats and Audis from production years of 2007-2008 however I heard that BLS can also throw rods. I believe the best way to prevent it from happening is to use Fully Synthetic 5w40 engine oil and to change oil and filter every 5k miles (8000km) I see on fourms that people use 5w30 oil and I believe that viscosity is too thin for BXE. I also think driving style affects it too as 80% of engine wear happens when the engine hasn't reached operating temperature. The BXE isn't built to be driven hard all the time. ASY PD130 is more of a tough engine that can handle such abuse because crankshaft is slightly different in design. BXE doesn't have piston cooling jets (I think) but ASY has.

UPDATE: I managed to take off the headlight and just turned the thing upside down and the plastic piece fell backwards into the headlight casing. Hopefully it won't show it's face again... 😅

Hi everyone! I own a Skoda Octavia MK2 and I happen to have a piece of plastic that happened to get into my headlight case (see photos) (don't ask how it got there because I honestly don't know) but I was wondering... ...how on earth do you remove it? Because it's annoying me now. Thanks JoshiBoi

I am going to replace it in the future. Where I live it's too cold to be outside so I'm going to attempt it in summer

I literally jumped from 800 grit sandpaper to 2500 and I know that is not the best thing to do at all but I then used Meguiars Ultimate Compound, hand polished and applied medium pressure. Done it twice and the sanding marks are pretty much gone. After that, I applied Auto Finesse Tripple Polish and it looks a lot better than before. A lot of you guys might say that I did a **** job but for me I can live with this. Rather have it looking like this then leaving it to rust. Standing from a distance, it doesn't look massively noticeable, it's just when you get close, you'll see it. I have learnt from this stupid mistake and I hope if anybody attempts to remove their rear badge, don't do what I did.