gilmo

Thanks, fixed it by taking out the Airbox and cycling through the gears at the gbx end. Greased pivots a bit and cleaned the top of the gbx too. There was an accumulation of crap around the linkages.

Hi, I'm selling this vrs here and I'd like to make sure it's Ok for whoever takes it. It has a sluggish gearlever that doesn't really spring back to the centre. Like if your going from 2-3, you have to push it forward, drag it to center and then push to third. I guess that the linkages are a bit gummed up or something. The transmission itself feels solid so I don't think the problem is there. Any thoughts?

This is my 3rd mk1 Octavia estate. I hat to sell my last one this year due to rust and it really liked it (130pd!). I bought another car but came across this and couldn't resist so I bought it too. Now I'm sitting with 2 cars and I don't need 2 cars. One of the last of these ever made - and 118000 on the clock MOT in March, advisories were surface rust on suspension components and some corrosion on brake pipes. FSH up to 2016 or so. Then there is a gap to 2021, I understand it sat for a while. Good tread on the tyres maube 6mm or so all round. Bodywork: This is my third mk1 octavia and I can tell you the bodywork on this is in really good condition. there are a few spots of rust from stonechips on the bonnet. The tailgates always suffer on these but there is no rust under the right side of the window (Good!). There is some starting to develop under the handle. Thankfully not visible yet unless you get under and look at it. The arches, skirts and doors are all good. wheels are 18s and I think might be from a TT. things to note: fixed! The gear shifting is a bit sticky but the box feels solid. I think the linkages need looked at. 2 passenger window clips broke as I was driving it home; typical. I've ordered the fixing kits, so they will come with the car or, hopefully I'll get round to fixing them The white in the interior is a bit grubby. White was a terrible idea... I recently bought this car in Brighton and drove it all the way to Glasgow, didn't miss a beat Engine feels great and it returned 39mpg. Not too bad for 170bho turbo petrol. Worth £1600 to anyone? I'm in Glasgow but can meet people within 70 miles or so if interested just a few quick photos. Will get more soon

FWIW, I borrowed a discharged battery to run as temp while I get a new one. It was pretty empty at 12.3V. Sitting on the mains charger at 14.4V

We do a lot of DC power systems - I would have thought 14 ish is good. In fact 12.6 seems like a low float... regardless the battery drained itself having been disconnected for ~18 hours. thanks for the input guys much appreiated!

also parisitc draw stabalised to 0.03/4 mA when I left the DMM connected for a bit

Really? car wouldn't start - float dropped to 12.3. that was with the neg disconnected. Multimeter was a good one (fluke) and we get them calibrated at work every year what should it be when charging? and why would it be overcharging? thanks

Yes I do... Had a poke around with the multimeter last night/today Float 12.7 VDC no drop this afternoon after sitting with battery disconnected all night 14.8V on idle so alternator good no AC on terminals so Diodes good 650mA parasitic drain with radio yellow and red wires out 480mA parasitic drain with radio totally disconnected. probably time to start bulling fuses...

Thanks. That's exactly what I thought - I am not electrically illiterate but my car battery started dying after I changed the speakers. I guess it could be something else and the speaker change is incidental. I also know that my radio isn't quite wired correctly - I've been reading around and recon it's a canbus issue. http://forum.autopumpkin.com/viewtopic.php?t=161 Like I say though, the radio was functional and wasn't draining the battery before I changed the speakers. Having posted this I removed the wiring harness from the back of the radio completely and the car was fine for a few mornings but then died overnight one morning. Maybe there's a slow short to ground. I've been disconnecting the battery every time I leave the car for the last few days...

Hi, Anybody ever had a problem with aftermarket speakers draining the battery? I installed some old infinity kappas w/ xovers in the doors of my car because I had them and one of the stocks was done. I want to stress I am talking about the speakers here not the head. I have had the same Alpine cde 9881 head in for a year and it works fine. I changed the speakers and the car battery goes flat overnight. I disconnect them and the battery doesn't go flat over night. I can't really understand this because I there is no power going to the head when the car is off (i lose presets - no big deal). Pretty sure i got the polarity right too: brown is -ve. it's like there's a ground through a big resistor Any thoughts coz I'm stumped? battery is < 1 year old btw

OP here: Re heated seats - Mine were heated: definitely factory, swapped them for some gti leather seats in the end, also heated; plugged right in. The problem with the electric seats seemed to be slop in the mechanism. it was all bolted down correctly be it would shift while cornering. I guess whatever worm-wheel/threaded rod combination there was just wore out. worth knowing if you ever come across one

Damage visable here

No, right on topic my friend. I did contact the dealer, but they don't want anything to do with it, say it was old and sold as seen. As far as I understand it should be servicable for 6 months under the consumer goods act 2015. At this point it's registered letters stating demands then a small claims court battle; it's on my to do list. I have a note from a garage saying 'do not drive, dangerous rust', or words to that effect. I paid with visa debit If anyone has similar a similar experience trying to extract money from a deal, I'd be keen to hear!

Thanks Ken, I'm leaning towards going home to fix the car and driving it back Where in Scotland would one get new stretch bolts? Also the 130 probably needs a ne exhaust. Are these common to other octavias/mkiv platform cars or specific to the 130 octavia (estate)

Thanks for that. There's a fair bit of rust under the 130 I have, the waxoil made it look better than it was when I bought it. The main reason I wanted to go in that direction was the sunroof.... This is what I mean by subframe. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324581338706?fits=Model%3AOctavia&hash=item4b928e2e52:g:cTcAAOSw0fpgfnYS TBH, I'd say a lot of the suspension components could do with being changed, front and rear. Are the sus components common between the 2 models? Wish bones, hubs etc Is the 130 112 PCD wheels as opposed to the 110 on the 110? I have the Haynes manual for the mk1 Octavia, and I wouldn't be afraid to start swapping suspension components but it doesn't specifically say that the manual covers the 130 car.

I currently have 2 mk1 octavia estates, a 110 and a 130 PD. I bought the latter 2 months ago (from a dealer!) and have been informed the sub-frame is rotten and it can't be driven. It's a PD130 6 speed and the engine is great, much better than the 110. How difficult would it be to swap the engines so the 130 is in the 110? thanks,

Interesting, Most of the posts i can find relating to broken L support are about the cable. I assume my cable is fine because my L control wheel works. When i twist it I can feel it working. With the Lumbar suporrt full out I can feel changes in where the plastic flexing is.

edit: I think the seatbelt solution is to either install a lap belt or take out the seats for MOT

Hello again, Installed the VW leather seats - easy to do - there's a wee bit of play but it seems that the pressed joints loosen over time. Anyway. Much improved! 2 question: the rears in the Octavia have the centre seatbelt installed in the the back rest. I assume in the Golf that it comes from the roof. Is it an MOT failure not to have a centre seatbelt? If so could I swap the backs? Second: in the front drivers seat there is something the feels like the flexing of bowed plastic behind my back, as if a stiffener is out of place. Anyone familiar with that and know ow to fix Cheers,

Do you say that because of the upholstry? It matches the rear and is the same pattern as a previous elegance I had I'm wonderin if there will be any spaces between the seats and the trim. I understand that the fittings are the same but, for example, will there be a large gap between the seat and the wheel arch into the boot?

Flash really brings out ever speck of dirt... jaysus colours look much closed in real life. There's a local online auction for some black leather golf seats. Does anyone know how well the rears would fit?

Well whoever did it matched the trim perfectly, carried over the correct cloth and matched the passenger seat perfectly too

I have a feeling I'll be asking a few questions about this car.... Its a TDI 130 elegance with electric seats as standard. There is a noticable rock in the seat when changing direction, accelerating or braking. When out of the car you can grab the seat and move it. It's a very small movement and seems to be related to the bit of steel in the front-middle, the one with the logditudinal bar going to it. Anyone experience something similar? should I be worried? TBH I don't really need electric seats and I wouldn't mind putting in some manual ones (golf leather ones or something) Is there any additional challenges to replacing the electric seats in the octavia with manual ones? Thanks in advance

Hi, Just got a new-old tdi 130 estate, very impressed! Engine electronics light has gone on. I understand this is likely to be an egr sensor or something like that. Any common places to check? Is there a quick reset like this guy is doing in the A3. I can't find a 40A fuse and it's a different generation of VAG so I don't want to go randomly pulling fuses. Thanks you!

Cheers, Any problems installing the other speakers? Did you do anything with the tweeters of the crossovers?