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Manual Gearbox Oil
Can't doubt your details, but need to add full gearbox details I mean that your gearbox is 02S-QVX 6-SPEED (MQ250) https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2016-753/gearbox+id-3/6+speed+manual+transmission+mq250+2016+id-300-300011/ As per details it takes 75W80, 1liter of G 052 527 A2 Same as MQ350 also takes 1L at Octavia, revision While, for example MQ350 at Superb will take mostly 2.15-2.3 liter, some revision 75w80, others 75w90. The confusion for Octavia is it takes all you can imagine, MQ200 250 350, DQ200 250.. plus DQ381 latest )) hence each has to do a bit of datasheet research
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Stunner started following How-to: DCC Recalibration , Manual Gearbox Oil , MY17 Superb SLA Headlights Upgrade - Help and 1 other
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Manual Gearbox Oil
Ook, it seema that topic needs some hands on.. So each gearbox has a 3digit specific key after gearbox name. E.g. MQ350 M6F QEY - manual 6 gear FWD (in my case Superb mk3 2016 2.0 tdi 140kw) MQ350 M6A QGN - manual 6 gear AWD (case of Superb mk3 2016 2.0 tdi 110kw 4x4) ..and so on each combination MQ200 MQ250 DQ*** etc.. On each car there's a sticker rear area for reserve wheel/storage box, some times if not there (for cars after 2021) it is on the service book when paper or online. PR-Number plate Big POINT(!) Manual gearbox: - initially for MQ200 MQ250 was no service recommended at all life time - same applied for MQ350, but even so common mechanics recommend change at 100.000km, then later started a recommendation of 60.000-80.000km or 5 years. Something happen(?) still question mark. Maybe because, brake fluid, Stop What? Because it has service for 60.000km, and too less mechanics knows(out of Official Dealer and Bosch Service Centre) that when purging brake oil out with new one, has to respect the norm, plus the sequence for clutch cylinder for manual gearbox and for DSG together with brake cylinders because it use same hydraulic system - after which OBD and ABS adaptation with brake and clutch But what happen? 2015 - 2018 cars with MQ350 from factory received GL 4+ Castrol transmax V 75W80 (!) In 2019 they moved officially to Shell, and most cars get 75W90, and here when people get to idea let replace gearbox oil they put 75W90 instead 75W80 for cars before 2019. Some get bag gear synchronization 2 to 3.other 5 to 6 etc.. So if you get the gearbox with wrong oil, e.g GL5 instead of GL4+ it seems not big deal but is huge risk to get Oxydation on it due to different metal reaction. So is better to get correct original oil without any kind of extra additives unless you lost hours and days studying what and why you need and take the risk. Now some brands names 75W only that's strange as old school they assumed only one type of oil is it 75w80 or 75w90 no body knows ... But Castrol say 75W80 So make sure to identify if the gearbox needs 75W80 then that one must be and nothing else. As said mostly 2015 till 2018 and some mid 2019 depends when car sells.. If gearbox datasheet says 75W90 then that one is, in fact it wont say 75w90 or 80 but it will have a VW part number which can be searched. This mostly after 2019.. depends when build and gearbox Key index. Then next: gearbox differential (front) will take 75W90. As well as Rear Differential when 4x4 AWD will take 75W90 Plus Haldex takes special liquid. So now we know there's cars taking service for manual gearbox with 3 different oils for transmission and others with 2, others with 1 type. When dsg same apply, dsg + 75w90 differentials+ haldex if 4x4. Here specific case combination: kind of 4 oil drain plugs but 3 oil type Gearbox Mq350 m6a 4x4 02q-qgn - 2.15 - 2.3l, 75w80 (castrol transmax manual v - no alternatives if you want car shifting as car not as tractor) - API GL-4+ - vw *G 052 527 A2* - VW G 052 171 - VW G 052 527 - VW G 052 512 - VW G 052 532 - VW G 055 512 - VW G 055 532 + Front differential - 0.9l, 75w90 (original castrol transmax axle long life then Shell both are VW - alternative Ravenol LiquiMoly, Motul, search reviews FOR your car all are unique or believe in economy a bit and pick the one more accessible) - VW G 052 145 A2 - VW G 052 539 A2 - VW G 052 911 A2 <=> Rear differential - 0.93l, 75w90 - VW G 052 145 A2 - VW G 052 539 A2 - VW G 052 911 A2 + Haldex - 0.66 - 0.74 l, special (suggest VW only or top brands again .. as Castrol doesn't sell it to public as it is VW till 2018, then VW is Shell, public sells has Ravenol and guess LiquiMoly) - VW G 052 175 A2 - VW G 055 175 A2 - VW G 060 175 A2 Now let's assume you've followed correct procedure for the oils change with all bolts seal rings cleaning and proper Nm torque all set: - next elevate the 4wheels and slowly run all gears and 4x4 for a while , confirm no cracks etc.. there can't be any, but it will be some with gearbox selecting and haldex pushes - next perform haldex adaptation using proper OBD diagnose - next do adapt manual gearbox selector (fix gearbox service mode under air filter intake, then remove selector springs, then push selector.inside.the car in service mode and hold with 6mm hex, back to gearbox springs push them both on place, back inside remove 6mm holder and leave N, now releas gearbox from service mode outside, attach air intake and test drive) you should have smooth shifting as from factory and when in N there should be no bounce moving, but firmly in the middle. 4x4- extra adaptation for haldex via OBD Dsg- extra adaptation via OBD And extra tipp: MQ350 doesn't love much bad shifting, that means in order shift up while driving you must push RPM bit higher to allow properly be engaged and smooth Now ehen shifting down, if you shift down normally lower speed without braking then shift it down, if you hit the brake then wait for RPM go lower 1300, now press clutch and disengage. (!) If you need to brake extremely hard, emergency brake etc, hit down both pedals together clutch + brake, stop down only then move shift selector to N or else if you continue driving. Believe or not, mine Superb 2016 is 350.000km and shifts as new, 2nd owner from 163.000km .. mq350 02q-qey fwd 2.0 tdi 140kw.. it has the issue with shifting 2to3 and I was able to solve that as ler the guideline. Attention (!) - changing wheel size out of default factory may need proper adaptation to the wheel circumference for speed proper indicator - installing wheel spacers, lower springs also affects all this need adaptation after
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How-to: DCC Recalibration
Yes the values will change always, even if small difference the suspension work will improve after calibration, as you may know there's no two equal resistances from manufacture you always have a x% tolerance. Did you replaced coil springs together with mounting kits ? - If so, and if you have possibility, repeat the procedure after 300-500km, assuming new parts (coils/rubbers) will fit on place it may change a bit couple mm.. - "but it's not mandatory"
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How-to: DCC Recalibration
Ignore that because *rear right has no sensor* rear only having sensor on the left and front both sides Make sure you do follow instruction properly, assume you trying to calibrate on the wrong menu
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MY17 Superb SLA Headlights Upgrade - Help
Hey JR RS, Could you share basic thing, how to remove the deadlight unit himself? Should fron bumber get dissasembled? Kr
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Fleece or Binary AGM ?
Hi All, Time for battery change? After long time search on web, things come clear gladly to Continental tech description: Absorbed Glass Matt AGM = Absorbed Glass Fleece AGF https://www.continental-aftermarket.com/en-en/products/spare-partsrepair-parts/batteries/agm-battery The option BinaryAGM seems to be used if there available)) but think for high performance with spiral-wound AGM. OEM was black battery from Varta but codet as JCI - JCB 68Ah Fleece and not VA0, but well nevermind what names they sell for assembly Replaced with: EXIDE EK700 coded initially as Fleece 70Ah TU3 But then for test did change technologyto BinaryAGM, and the 96% charged battery as Fleece was now showing 82% charge with BinaryAGM. * While charging voltage was kept in range 13.6-14.2V for both cases. It's known this exact battery EK700 can handle about 7-10% over the values on the sticker, means in fact it handle true 75Ah, that's shown by different tests. This means having programmed as BinaryAGM a normal AGM battery(not top brand) can result to be charged at maximum all time or mostly if daily route is over 50km, which not good as not allowing time to be discharged a bit, unless leave with music periodically, while for EK700 or similar good branded it maybe wont cause any damage. And that's why many people saying to have any of this two type coded and no one see issues, because depends in short time not but after couple years the capacity may be affected if not right setup for drive mode etc... So an adwise for those who having short routes, check periodically your battery and if measurements shows battery constantly not charged c.a. 80% or less, and never 90/100% , is maybe a good idea to have it setup to BinaryAGM this in fact will show less charge % but real battery will be better charged, as the logic for generator is slightly different allowing faster and higher charger. Again, setup as Fleece is good by default nothing worse, but think BinaryAGM still accepted in two scenarios, when long daily routes only with some TOP of the normal AGM batteries on the market (as those having a bit over reserve which positioning as high power delivery as an spiral-wound AGM), and second scenario is when daily short routes not allowing your AGM being charged 90-100%. Hope that helps to put clearance on this subject.
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How-to: DCC Recalibration
So good explained ! Once again thanks making this available. But as you mentioned, there's missing exact info on the logic how/when the DCC controller will register the middle position after lifted recalibration. I mean when the car is being lifted back to the ground the suspension teke a letter V position for the thres, and the rubber doesn't allow the car to be fully standing in the ground for about 1-2cm untill we roll it a bit front back, or drive. So there possible theories for the DCC controller storing new data: 1. After calibration will measure a medium for the middle position in couple cycles while driving 2. After calibration, the unit activate time dependency controller on which the car must be deiven for a while 3. The values are stored once on the moment when lowerd down and the middle point is reached, !! If that is the case then bad news, as mentioned above the suspension will not fully stand, shich means then that calibration must be done not with full leveled suspension but a bit before when wheels(tyres) are still 90 degrees angle to the ground, that also persume to have logic because by manufacturing full extended shock absorber is to be avoided for damage, plus no body drives with full extended suspension till wheel on the air not even on broken streets, but with maximum extended suspension and wheels still touching ground I don't have a lift available for free, else I could test the logic and see if differences while driving. Hope is interesting and someone can consider this logic, or maybe dealer friend can say the secret 🤗 And then one more open question, bit other subject but related: - how exactly the wheel must be aligned? Mean, my car could not be aligned many multibrand shops, even having respected tyre pressure, fuel tank full, no extra loads etc..., the open question is as they positioning the steering and taking measured with engine turned off, which is wrong, because electro servomotor for steering hydraulics, and the gas/oil compression made by internal electric valve on the shockabsorbers, assume that having this with and without power will give different results, because again we will not drive with powersteering off and DCC valves disconnected, I'm bit right or not?
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How-to: DCC Recalibration
Did completed re-calibration today. So here long feedback comes. It was required because packed totally new OEM DCC set (shock absorbers, coil springs, repair mounting kit, anti roll bar links and bushes) that becuase fabric ones dead with oil blow after c.a. 150000km.... recommend using comfort mode moderately or not at high speed to avoid drastic drops... Is what mechanic said🤷♂️ Also found interesting thing, the % values in Adaptation: Adapting with deflected wheels, are stored fixed, logic not(?))), but how Understood that, was to measure them 4 time, with and without adapted - while leveled up and standing. (Attached pics) That values are stored as base, which will reflect on power delivery adjustment when changing different DCC modes, this can be checked while running live test with sensors and drive. Seems like rear right use default values making others reflect on it, maybe because fuel tank position, that sensor also shows available while others not possible in live data info, and it will not change after recalibration, or different way stored or somthing still to learn. So, after adaptation, already made couple hundred km on highway, as well urban routes, same day))).. There is difference YES even with OEM new pack, but many people saying/thinking see no issue no need to, so it's a big big miss if use low spring and not recalibrate !!! As you can see on pics small % diferences but it results in more clearance and soft Comfort mode, while Normal mode has much predictions mean becomes ideal option, for the Sport gained even more hardness controll. After discussion with dealer, they communicated that DCC calibration must be completed after any suspension works, and no way to use it without because reflects on wheel alignment (front / rear), ACC and lights too, all together to be adjusted, not cheap at all, but then you get the right feeling. The DCC recalibration may be required twice, because when aligning steering/wheels the arms will push a bit the whole construction at least on rear side, so it's a complex procedure of couple hours, then having wheel aligned and DCC calibrated, it's time to proceed with beam lights and ACC adjustment. Good if found a shop with all tools, else run across city, usually only dealer will have all this at one place.
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How-to: DCC Recalibration
Hey Guys, Have received my OBD11 today, not yet adapted as need to jack it up)) But the option is available, checked to read values while standing(pic attached).. As well as there's one more, which I don't exactly know in fact but from the logic is to teach DCC how is mostly loaded the car "Constant current loading mode" has someone checked that (pic attached) ?
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How-to: DCC Recalibration
Alright, means the easiest way to self manage this will be to order an Obd11 👍Thanks
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How-to: DCC Recalibration
Hey There, Could someone comolete this with VCDS, heard in another forum to be done with ODIS which saying same should work with VCDS, not?
Stunner
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