GiantKiwi

Yes, Yes and Sort of.

Clearly you have more tolerant drivers on your route. I got flashed 4 times in 11 miles this evening on the way home 🙄

Only on Auto mode full beam (1 push, not 2). I've noticed that a lot of bixenon beemers have been flashing me when i'm on dipped, but a quick blip of main quells any dickishness from them.

https://www.carexpert.com.au/car-reviews/halogen-v-led-v-matrix-led-v-laser-headlights-compared-and-tested They recorded 93 lux at 50m on the Full Beam of Skoda Superb Matrix LED lights, which roughly translates to around 4600 lumens, so that would put the actual per headlight at around 2300 lumens.

Done properly lasts a damn sight longer than DIY, especially on embossed crap. Helicopter tape is nothing more than thick sellotape and leaves residue, it's nothing like modern PPF. If you want to go use that, sure go right ahead, but if people are managing to rub the paint off these kickplates, the helicopter tape adhesive will lift it as well.

Unfortunately, you can't just up and buy it in small amounts. Only authorised retailers can fit most of them. I have a friend who runs a business who will do it for me, on an adhoc basis. I understand from him, that some companies will do it, but it will be quite expensive (I pay roughly £200 for just both sills and a boot scuff protection layer being done, but this does include the time outlay for proper surface preparation).

Paint protection film - My use is a bit unorthodox, but it prolongs the longevity and most good ones are self-healing if properly applied and maintained.

ECE Regulations 48 and 98. Any HID lights exceeding 2000 lumens and all LED headlights must have headlight washers and self-levelling.

I always get kickplates PPF'ed immediately.

Any justification under safety regs is utter horsecrap. If it were truly to do with safety regulations it would be illegal for manufacturers to have it as an optional extra.

99% of the UK apart from motorways then? 😂

Had a new for me fault tonight, the head unit is seemingly dead. Doesn't respond to power cycling the car, infotainment, or anything logical. Which would be fine if some donut hadn't decided to put all of the systems controls into it.. It was working fine this afternoon as well, the only thing that happened is I left it parked on the drive in direct sunlight, but reading the IR temp off the surface the car, if it can't handle 30ish degree outside temp and 50ish car surface temp it's f-ing useless as a car in most countries, so it can't be that....can it?

Goodyear Eagle F1 Assymetric 5 (intrigued as to why the other UK vRS got Super Sport and i didn't) 225/40R19. Really glad I avoided the Michelin Primacy's, as their warranty is worthless in the UK and I went through 4 sets in 2 years on the previous car due to sidewall cracking on obscene levels. Don't envy those on Pirelli's. Tyre compound on the P7's are horrendously bad on wear, had 2 sets on a previous car eat themselves in less than 5k miles.

vRS Hatchback, Race Blue - without DCC.

When I was test driving them, I got to test a vRS estate (wagon/combi/etc) with DCC back to back with the vRS hatch without DCC. I couldn't notice enough of a difference between them to justify the extra £3000 for a higher mileage ex-demo car where the only advantages were DCC + 40L extra boot space. Specifications were identical apart from the DCC and body type. Not sure if it was this thread or not, but the ride height between DCC and non DCC on vRS is identical on non-hybrid versions, as DCC is just variable damper control, and has nothing to do with the springs.

Not if you like keeping your warranty, you can't.

I borrowed a Fluke from work after getting peeved at the instability of wireless CarPlay. The blasted thing is modulating the channels almost constantly which is the cause of the drop outs. In a 5 minute scan I observed it automatically switching channels 9 times. For context, a standard household router supplied by an ISP might swap its wireless channel once or twice a month, if left in auto mode. I've since disabled anything related to wireless connection and gone back to using USB as it works first time, every time.

Bum. I don't trust the nearest equivalent to my location, as they royally buggered my boss' California.

How? Blasted thing defaults to on with 1668.

System updates done by dealer only is a janky load of crap. Honda let the things go out OTA. No point having an OTA system if it's restricted to one subset of essentially irrelevant items.

Compared to the S/S in Japanese cars, it's the function is virtually unnoticeable. Jap cars the entire car jerks when the engine gets restarted by the S/S. I'm still not fussed on it even after 3 years of it prior to the Skoda, but as it is contingent on my car meeting ULEZ zone restrictions, which I will soon have to deal with if the local city council gets their way, I'll be letting it be. I would really like to have Lane Assist default to off and only turn on when I want it - the road to my house is barely wider than the car and i really don't want the sodding computer pushing me into potholes because I forgot to turn it off.

It has the up and down on mine, although it had to be enabled in an obscure menu.

Probably Fleet Manager?

Can't get it specific to the trim, as that requires the VIN number which on your car probably doesn't exist yet. https://digital-manual.skoda-auto.com/w/en_GB/show/6955fb4dafeabce4ac1445253f5d8333_1_en_GB?ct=6955fb4dafeabce4ac1445253f5d8333_1_en_GB is the NX Octavia from 06/2021 builds onwards.

Where I live RWD is a really bad idea if you need to get anywhere in the winter as studded tires are illegal and the roads don't get gritted.