Former

A quick look shows the AL619 does live data but I've no idea what it shows, also says it's updateable via online. There are ways to test the sender but I'd still go with partial refills to just above the drain levels and driving around below and well below or above that level with a bit of sharpness to braking (how much that helps might not be much). When my neighbour's rarely driven car fuel gauge (reading) got stuck I tried adding a gallon or so of fuel and quick runs round and round a few empty roundabouts in both directions and some sharp braking but no difference then next time I went to drive the car the gauge (reading) seemed to just unstick itself and was fine from them on. Just the type of non-PITA, non-farting-about-on-cars, clean-hands "repairs" I much prefer. https://www.autelstore.co.uk/upload/pro/19082915670644993029.pdf

How many petrol refills or partial refills have you done since the drain, have you driven the car much since - it could be something like the fuel tank sender and/or float needs a good shake up to unstick it or it needs replacing (I've no idea how easy or or not it is to replace), Personally, where safe and reasonable to do so, I'd drive the car about with some gusto on bends and and heavy to stop braking with the fuel level at just above or anywhere below what it was when the diesel was drained out. Otherwise perhaps (but I don't know) there's a computer reset required using an appropriate level scan tool suitable for your model and year of VW product (make sure the scan tool program is fully up to date for your model and year. Others than me will know more with certainty, I always like to try simple, quick, easy, free methods that don't involve me getting my hands dirty or farting about with cars before moving on. If a scan tool isn't available I also have a simple method to try for that but its unpopular here with some and it's suggestion seem to really upset them. Good luck let us know how you get on.

Not going against all the great info you've provided and you may well be correct but personally I would check this, if it's the same as the Mk3 Fabia the digital speed display is not permanent, it can be switched/scroll-wheeled to other items checked in the menu. It may pass requirements, I don't know but I'd check with those that either pass or fail this.

Not seen that yet, other than your suggestion but the computer really do not like the battery to be in too lower state of charge for them, this can be before you get any warning messages and certainly well before you get any hesitation, let alone difficulty, of starting the engine and the light might still seem bright. Just driving the car may not recover the battery enough charge to other than temporarily delay the return of the problem, what can often be needed is a recharge using an appropriate battery charger maintainer by following the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and for charger. Generally it's better to use a 2, 3 or 4-amp charger but to get the battery fully recharged will take longer and may need more than one session if you need to use the car. Even if you have a new battery, 'coded' correctly, at some point in the future, not for a good while hopefully, it'd be best, when required, to do preventative charges with appropriate battery charger maintainer, following the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual, to prevent a repeat of the problem. Just one example other units and providers are available. - Ring RSC900 4-amp "smart" charger maintainer. - https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc904-4a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html Why has the battery only lasted 3 years (other than perhaps the very common premature replacement, instead of recharge) could there be again a fault in the VW battery management systems that requires an update/Recall (again) or is it your use of the car and battery, or an accidental drain (left something switched on, plugged in for too long whilst the car is parked up, engine off so alternator not running) or other drain on battery from a fault. If the battery hadn't been 'coded' or 'coded' wrong your local guy with Vag-Com would/should have picked that up. I think VW have made things more restrictive with what can be done without their scan tools, good revenue stream for them/their Dealerships.

Another quick thought - check the battery terminal connections are secure and that the main live an earth cables connections and wires are all clean, secure and protected. Even if the engine starts and the lights seem bright enough the state of charge of the battery can still be too low for the computers, by the time the battery is unable to start the car it has been severely weakened and will take a lot more to revive it and it may not fully recover.

Voltage sounds good but the car's computers are telling you otherwise. I suggest you buy an appropriate battery charger maintainer and fully recharge the battery. Or if you prefer just replace the battery with a new one to be sure during the upcoming winter, see above for replacement battery 'coding'.. If you have owned the car from new perhaps it is your use of the car and battery or perhaps you have added something to the car with constant drain, You could check to see if there re any VWŠkoda recall on your car perhaps for battery management issues, there was one for my wife's 2015 Fabia. Otherwise something has caused a lower state of health of your battery, or perhaps the battery itself was a wrong one but that would be very uncommon, usually just used as a scapegoat excuse. Let us know how you get on.

Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me)

The "error" is not giving the overlords computers what they want which is not too low state of charge or they can often play up in all sorts of unexpected ways before you're anywhere near the engine not actually starting. That shouldn't really be so, if you have clicking it shouldn't then start after on the same untouched battery for a flat battery. Any electrical or engine starting issues are always best sorted with a fully charged battery, hopefully your new battery will be fully charged or near enough. Battery may not be holding it's charge or not so well being 8 years old and/or it might (or might not) be you put insufficient charge back into the battery for its condition. Did you check the terminal clamps were secure (tight), same for main earth connection, live and earth cables, wires, connections look OK? A new battery might sort things, just that starting after clicking doesn't fit, unless I've misunderstood. 60, 59Ah, I don't think even the VW overlord computers are that finickity and same EFB type, there is a school of thought that the computers will pick up on the battery improvement with use and I've been told and seen on here were some people have just done a battery change without 'coding' and without issues from not 'coding', whether this ultimately has any effect on the new battery's life only time would tell and then you'd have to factor in that even though the battery is new the rest of the car (alternator, computer systems, sensors, electrics and items) aren't so there more likelihood of the second battery not lasting as long as the first if used in the same. For OBDEleven 'coding' there's (was?)s a choice of EFB or EFB+, unless you've ordered an EFB+ battery (unlikely) obviously you want EFB. As an example only, the following is from when a BriSkoda member used his OBDEleven to 'code' the replacement AGM battery for my wife's Fabia, as already put only the type (EFB, AGM) and Ah (59, 60) and changing the serial number (you can put what you like AFAIK but changing the end digit is easiest) are important (VW call AGM "fleece"). Let us know how you get on.

accosted - Cambridge Dictionary - "accost verb [ T often passive ]" . . . "to go up to or stop and speak to someone in a threatening way" Do you want to change that word, I have never accosted any AA or other breakdown or recovery personnel - and it wouldn't have been possible as I wasn't present when he AA arrived with the XJ owner and no breakdown company was called out to my wife's Fabia just me, she chose the car but I have to sort it out when it plays up and goes wrong. Having to walk 2 miles what tool or tools would you have taken based on the basic information given knowing you regularly alternate use of remote key fobs and change batteries before they run down too much and synchronise the keyblades - and I very much doubted there'd be anything wrong wit the car battery!

Not necessarily but as you got it so low probably best you replace with new given the time of year. Normally I'd suggest using an appropriate battery charger but on a modern car the battery generally has to be very low before it can't start the engine and I'm not sure what you mean by several attempts (one time or several that the engine won't start). You usually get first warning of low state of charge with the start/stop become inactive when it would normally be active, unless there's been a sudden drain of battery power. For disconnect/reconnect the battery and what might need resetting just refer to your car's 'Owner's Manual'. If you don't still have the paper printed copy you can download free from VWŠkoda a pdf copy here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models For resetting often it's just the time of day clock provided you had your electric windows (sunroof) fully closed before battery disconnection. How the computer will punish you for your error is uncertain but If you've not got a tool to 'code' the new battery you can still fit it and try aa few simple things to convince the overlords that you now have a battery in good state of charge. After fitting the new battery, start the car put heater blower on 4 whilst the blower whilst turning the steering wheel to full lock in both directions, then go for a short drive. Did you buy an EFB, 59Ah battery of the same physical size as original?

CTEK are alright, overpriced to me and I prefer something with a needle or numbers to be able to judge or follow progress rather than different coloured LED but the CTEK (if appropriate to EFB) should be fine. A 2, 3 or 4 amp charger is generally better than a 5 amps but of course takes longer (to fully) charge the battery, a 5 amp is generally better than an 8 amp but of course takes longer. If the battery has been correctly coded then you shouldn't, barring accidents or forgetfulness or extreme over use/abuse of the battery need to think about needing to use the charger at least this side of winter or longer or much longer. Depends on your use when driving and if you're a heavy user of electric when the engine isn't running so alternator not doing its job. I saw a chap with a Jag XJ on the coldest day of last winter stranded on the grass verge of a reasonable busy road, he told me he knew the battery charge wasn't great, yet he'd started the car at his work at 5 am sat in it with his boss with the heater and heated seats and more electrics on during their break yet thought he could make it home after his shift. By coincidence I had my multimeter with me (don't ask why as it's yet another moan about my wife's 2015 VW Fabia!) and his battery gave the lowest reading I've ever seen, I even checked the multimeter with a button battery to be sure as it was so cold and it showed what I was expecting,, there was no way back for that XJ battery. You should have no problem cleaning the whole interior whilst listening to the radio if you want and sidelights, if your battery is in a reasonable state of charge which yours should be. I always fully charge a new battery before fitting it, or as soon after fitting as possible, that way you know you started at full which gives a bigger margin for a bit longer and a point of reference if you want or need to check things a bit later (say check alternator or drain during that period if the battery "died suddenly without any warning", as my neighbour said his did on his Citigo last week. (£242 battery and fitting and hopefully correct coding from RAC Homestart). Good luck.

The photo is more to show what the part actually looks like should the OP want to remove the broken part and provided is reference to the source of information. Whether it's worth replacing, at whatever cost from whatever source, or if life can continue without it, is up the car's owner/user.

Hi welcome. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/1st8579556tp-parking-ticket-holder-skoda-44570.html

Hi, welcome. As above - also check the state of charge of your car's battery preferably at the battery terminals when the car has been parked up and electrics unused as long ago as possible/practical, a battery in a lower state of charge can upset the car's computers even before any dash warning lights or messages and well, well before the engine has difficulty starting. Plus colder, wetter, frost, snow, shorter days are on the way you want the battery in good condition and state of charge before these.

Thanks for reporting back. VW don't make many parts, the battery included. As for it running out of power it's the same as having a 15 gallon tank with only half a litre of fuel in it and going on a journey, the further you go the more the likelihood of running out. You have covered my two car hobbyhorses, the great importance of the state of charge and health of the car's battery, particularly on modern cars with all their electronics and computer programs. They don't like a lower state of charge and can cause all sorts of issues, even before getting dash warning lights and messages and well before any engine starting issues. Battery state of charge has always been a basic requirement and something to check. Car batteries are the most oversold car part and particularly now with modern cars and drivers/owners and often prematurely replaced when they can often be successfully be recharged to give much more life by using an appropriate battery charger and maintainer with reading the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and charger's instructions. Second is owners and professionals reading instructs like the car's Owner's Manual, particularly professionals who often think they already know something but have it wrong because of not checking. For one-touch window did you and/or the indie garage read the Owner's Manual for what might need resetting after disconnecting and reconnecting the car's battery. Hopefully you are now fully sorted and the new battery properly 'coded' in (one auto-electrician was reported on here to have enter 7 Ah instead of 70 Ah (pretty bad the VW program allows this really). Even now you have a new battery I would still advise you if you are keeping the car long to some time later invest in an appropriate battery charger maintainer and when required (usually not very often) using it to do preventative recharges to extended the life of the present battery a long time and save all this hassle again. Just one example other units and providers are available. - Ring RSC900 - 900 Series 4A Smart Battery Charger & Maintainer -https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc904-4a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html Good luck.

We had this in the smart at the turn of the century and when we went to a smart car national meet that was going on 3 miles from where we lived we increased the average age by about 20 years and we were 40 then. A young man asked me which generation model we had, I hadn't a clue but I said about the gearbox shifts being opposite to what was intuitive to me and he told me it was just a matter of going under the gear lever gaiter and turning the switch the opposite way round. I never bothered with this as it was my wife's car at the time, I took it on later. Unfortunately I don't think VW make things that easy for you and from what I've read here it'd probably be best to leave the plastic assembly mechanism alone. It's like finding the indicators and wipers on opposite sides to what you've got used to before you soon get used to the new way (well mostly). The smarts also had flaps on the steering wheel, like the Fezzas of the time IIRC, same as when I had a (non-VW) Škoda in the late 1980s and IIRC it had the radio aerial in the rear window only one other expensive car had the same feature, IIRC not such a good idea when you put the heated rear window on ("to keep your hands warm whilst pushing the car"). 🙂

Perhaps when appropriate using the handbrake instead of footbrake would help certainly if the start/stop has operated. Sitting at traffic lights I often see a row of brake lights in front of me regardless of the type of gearbox in the vehicles. OFF TOPIC @thamestrader as you've given a comprehensive answer to the thread question, a brief post on your 1.3 Austin 1.3 HLE that you have owned from new would interest me, and I'm sure others, as until a couple of years ago I had a 1275 Midget that I used as my daily and only car for the previous 16 years.

First question I will leave to others to answer. Second question, many things can be 'coded' or altered with the correct level of appropriate scan tool but whether this can be and whether it would be a good idea to is a different matter I would guess it would be a change or update of software as the programs are so intertwined. Whether this type of thing is included in a tuning package I don't know. As suggested I would just experiment with my driving of the car and see what works for me and how much I get used to what the car wants to do, see how it reacts to right foot input (accelerator pedal position). You can also flick the gear lever as required. Keep it in the power band and you should be OK, push it too high and you will probably get fed up with the engine sound and want lower revs (subject to you and others not being deafen by the infotainment up loud so you don't hear the car). You have to live with a car for a while to find out what you really want and expect from it, what you initially want or expect may change when you get more used to the car, you get more used to accepting its to you good, no-so-good and bad elements and adjust to them. If you don't then seek to do something. Give it time, what seems undesirable now may later seem comfortable. If you had a 6-speed manual you might wish you had a 7 gear DSG on many or all occasions even I sometimes wish I was in an automatic.

In that case if your mechanic mate don't bring his charge him to use yours. 😄 Yeah but you hardly drove it like that. Another reason, among many, as soon as possible, to take the car for a good extended blow-out run and get the engine fully warmed up and give the car's mechanical systems good stretching exercises, blow out from intake, through engine and out the back get rid of the cobwebs and anything else. For VIN on paperwork in the paper piles (a system I now use on the real-life desktop to match my wife's system of papers everywhere, Covid has a lot to answer for) any bill from a Dealership, or it's on your V5C (important paper documentation I keep in files, backed up as all this paper is a fire hazard 😆).

Unfortunately the car doesn't read traffic and road conditions like the human can which is why I generally prefer a manual gearbox. Driving different makes and models of cars (with manual gearboxes) I often find the computer suggested gear isn't the one I might want or use, I might go from 3 to 6 instead of the suggested 5 as the road is clear of traffic and on a downhill and other things like the opposite, not going to a higher gear as I approach slower traffic and an uphill. The VW (and others) computer programming is more concern about recorded mpg rather than engine or gearbox life and some/many may prefer it that way.

Hi, short answer - yes the hazard lights flash on and off with the alarm. For more info - for queries like this and for much more information owners/drivers can consult the vehicles Owner's Manal, if you read, even before buying the vehicle, you will learns of very useful information that could save you time, hassle and money and avoid unnecessary expense with Dealerships/mechanics/auto-electricians (and premature expensive 12v car battery replacement). Just for this example only, from a 2018 Fabia Owner's Manual. - You should have a paper printed copy of the Owner's Manual, if so or not you can get a VWŠkoda free pdf version to download of this VWŠkoda site. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models For information (mostly covered in the Owner's Manual) covering general Mk3 Fabias the following series of videos are useful. - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHH-B9onXpOqdKjFA815CBd7YB4hocem5 HTH.

That was a good video (apart from shot in portrait instead of landscape) and if in somean49;s case it doesn't turn out to be the oil pressure switch at fault or there's another issue in addition to a faulty oil pressure switch I have another possible idea. Using a screw in pressure gauge is a good idea to check the switch regardless, especially if mechanic mate is going to charge for his time and labour.

Well done. Always remember these computers and computer programs have brain-farts and glitches, never fully trust them check whatever they tell when required. It took me a good number of attempts to reset the oil and then inspection on my wife's 2015 Fabia using the trip reset button. Oil I manage in about two or three attempts and inspection a few more, I carefully followed the same procedure each time so I've no idea why I was successful and unsuccessful. Lets hope that you have it sorted until next year. Good luck.

I've never driven one of these DSC things so have no experience of them, sounds like D is probably more set for 'Eco mode' how about have tried giving it more and quicker on the accelerator pedal to see if it can obey what you want from it in D. Or leave it in S and lift off accelerator to get it to change up where you prefer in the revs (I assume you can do this, might be wrong). I've driven a hired 2023 SEAT Arona, 1.0 litre, 3-cylinder turbo, 110hp, 6-speed manual that had 'Eco', 'Standard' and 'Sports' settings, I found 'Eco' was fine if not in traffic that wants to rush about and ''Sport' did seemed to sharpen they way it accelerated (or might just have been my perception. I found it best to drive in 'Standard' which it defaulted to, as I could dictate the revs and gear selection, because it manual, I take little notice of the recommended gear as I seem to have more idea of traffic and road conditions than the on-board computers.

Is the engine in any sort of Eco drive mode?