Former

Yes I'll give you both, if you are turning beyond or well beyond what you would normal have to lock up its a good indication of wear or lots of wear of shoes and/or drums depending on state of each, but measuring is by far the best but, if you don't know the start and worn thickness of the shoes and the drums and can't find out it's a good indicator if you've previously done rear brake adjustment at servicing or when required. If you know the measurements for the drums then post it or if you can find it find it. We don't know the car or it's history of use so best to check drums and shoes.

You also need to consider if the drums are worn, if you can adjust the shoes so they lock up the drums [ ETA: within reasonable adjustment] then the drums [TEA: probably ] aren't worn out (though they could be worn in other ways). I don't know on Felicas but on other drums the wear figures were cast into the drum. As put rear shoes and drums generally last a very long time but as, the shoes at least, are such an inexpensive part for the most important component system on the car renewing them is a good consideration. You don't want cheap crap brake shoes though. I found on my 1973 MG (similar brakes as Minis, Minors) that I could get the drums very cheap but the quality wasn't great, I wish I'd had my original drums machined for the new wider shoes even though It' would have been less expense to buy a few spare sets of the cheap drums. There used to be places that would reline the shoes and places that have original stock, whether either applies to where you are I don't know but as its VAG I'd have thought (don't know) the shoes (and drums) might have been fitted to other VAAG marque and models so still available widely. You could ring a brake manufacturer (or good supplier) and get details of minimum thickness if you wanted. Good luck.

There's more to the tyre's handling than a width number. Comfort (braking, steering, handling, road holding and noise) will depend on the quality of the tyre, its design, build and materials quality, any decent tyres in 19" size won't be low priced but could be "cheap". You do need to check that a different size tyre will fit and work correctly on your car. Tyres sizes (dimensions) can be nominal and vary very slightly and fit differently even if of exactly the same (on paper) size. According to this "tire" size calculator you get 5 mm (+5.4%) more on the sidewall height and of course (a nominal) 10 mm (+3.2%) tyre width the extra "rubber" may translate to more comfort but there are a lot of variables to consider as to how much. Having used and unworn brand new tyres should give improvements over used and worn tyre anyway but again this depends on variables. Select a tyre that is good quality and has characteristics and reports of giving a comfortable ride, don't put too much faith in the tyre label ratings and bear in mind with reviews that they not relate to your model and type of driving. Good luck

All three scanner could have program holes and glitches and without knowing who owns them they might bot be fully up to date so hopefully an appropriate VCDS machine might show more or different. Live data with everything plugged in may give leads, error codes aren't always the be-all and can even sometimes be misleading or distraction(s) and diagnostics done without error codes (or even a scanner sometimes). Have a look at that link I put in my last post and see how you get on Sunday, best of luck. If you have to get an auto-electrician in make sure his scanner (if only their were more women working in the car trade) is appropriate to your model and year (or VIN) of car and is it fully updated with all program updates for your model and year (or VIN) of car. I've not dealt with auto-electricians but I have other sorts of electricians and in my personal/business experience many of them can be lazy and looking for shortcuts and don't always have their tools fully ready for use.

I know nothing other than some basics which I always start from. Is the scan tool you are using appropriate to VW programs and at an appropriate level, and specifically to your model and year (or VIN) of car and is it fully updated with all program updates for your model and year (or VIN) of car, if not accuracy of some readings/codes can be suspect. Your car is about 13 years old so odds things can happen and show up (flashing glow plug lamp)(?)). Have you seen the following, perhaps you could get help there too. - https://www.obd-codes.com/p0651 The fact that you current issue started when you hit a pothole might be significant, or of course might be a coincidence), you have done some testing and you may have already also done the following, did you check the condition inside and out of all connectors, cleaned and repaired if required, condition of wires and checked connectors and wires are secure and protected, tried wiggle tests whilst the engine is running (on the ones you mention and others). Also consider that you might have more than one issue at once or that more than one thing might be contributing or combining to one or more issues. Always, test any testing equipment before making tests to confirm accuracy and double-checked things you have previously checked even if you think you've checked them enough or "it wont be that". Another set of eyes, ears, nose, touch, hands, mind on site can often be useful to confirm things or Sod's Law find what you've missed or previously checked. That's me out of ideas. Good luck.

https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/ If the spare wheel is 16" then that might be as small as you can go. As put the rides comfort isn't just about the figures but also the design and build of the tyre and the materials used, two tyre of the same size (sizes are nominal btw) may give different levels of ride comfort. Just as a comparison, in theory for 15" tyre size comparison (without fashion the car could easily be on 14" wheels but that's not modern styling). 195/65 r15 would be same rolling circumference as 225/45 r17 and you would get your 1" (25%) difference in sidewall height. https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/

With car parts (and cars) it depends a lot on the manufacture(r) for the quality, some may be very good and others not. On other makes of car the bushes may last much longer and not need replacing at this age. My wife's 2015 Fabia has clunk/knock (and had poor quality factory-fitted front dampers replaced a few years back) but as I've read on here others have replaced a series of parts for the noise to remain so I very begrudgingly put up with it. MoT time soon so we'll see if there's more expense from lower quality factory-fitted suspension parts.

I would still Fully recharge it in the way I put before to ensure it's fully recharged as the more often it gets partials charges the quicker the battery will suffer and expire. Probably ensure at least a quote for an expensive battery change. Batteries like central heating problems often show up longer term issues at the first really cold snap of winter and if not fail then fail soon after just when loads of other people experience the same thing so shortages and narrower lack of choice of plumber and batteries and the issues at less than convenient times. You can help to prevent this by preventative full charging of the battery a bit before the cold snap (and getting the c/h sorted in the summer). Many drivers may not know the car battery likes about 20c ambient but self discharges twice as much at 30c and twice as much at 40c as 30c and with the use of a/c is getting a lot of use this depletes so when the cold weather arrives and the battery has problems holding the charge there is less charge to hold and the battery as already be weaken so lower state of charge and health when again it's going to have to do a lot of work. The less work the battery can do the more work the car's alternator has to do, if one is kept weak it will eventually wear the other. It's very difficult to compare how long something like a car battery will las as there are many variables to take into consideration even if comparing two cars that are exactly the same make and model of car and batteries, same as you and your neighbours using different amount of gas, electric and water, some use more than others and some are more wasteful and less maintenance than others. People (including us) pay an arm and a leg to have the engine oil (and hopefully filter) changed annually to help keep it going, or if you done it yourself (like I sometimes do) it's a dirty messy job often rolling about on the ground, whereas battery maintenance such as preventative full recharging is very easy, clean hands work that can be working whilst your asleep. Or perhaps the Dealership or garage might say the battery is fine. Let us know how it goes on.

I got a set of two of these "wheel alignment tools" today they are the best I've had, full diameter for full length, longer too, knurling isn't sharp to the touch and a cut (screwdriver type) slot on end. £15.98 (set of two) including P&P off eBay UK so not the cheapest but better than the previous two individuals ones I got before. I now have a set of four should I need to rotate or swap over two wheels/tyres at once.

Why are you looking there (at a 05.2012 edition). - this is in the Škoda Owner's Manuals website ( https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models ) (page 36, "Citigo anglicky 05.2012" version) has the following. - If you've not got your paper printed copy of the car's Owner's Manual you can download a free VWŠkoda pdf copy of it from the VWŠkoda site I put the link to above using a guess at the build date or your VIN.

Fair enough Michael, I should have put, if you haven't already done so, but I forgot. I didn't realise a reversing camera would need coding but perhaps yours is more involved. There are some professionals on the list so perhaps more used to these sorts of jobs. If you're up to installing a tow bar and getting it working properly then perhaps you could treat yourself to a suitable scan tool for your job and others. Hopefully the thread being active might attract someone's attention who can help you. Cheers.

ETA: when did this start? Have you had or done any work on the car? Do you have any electrics added to the car after it left the factory, towbar, different "stereo", lights, etc., etc..

Quick thoughts. What is happening when the fuse blows, is it raining, are you opening a door, turning lights on, is the correct fuse amperage in the correct fuse location, have you checked the boot, glovebox, wiring conduits at doors. In the Owner's Manual (assuming it's correct, not always the case) Fuse Location 23 shows as "Interior lighting, storage compartment and luggage compartment, side lights" so you need to check all these, the connectors and connections and wiring, making sure nothing has caused an exposed wire or bridging connections. Use your eyes and a magnifying glass (and nose for smell if soon after blow). Look at the bulbs and bulb holders and boards for any evidence of anything untoward. Wrong bulbs fitted badly. All electrics want to be clean, secure and protected.

Not so, anyone that wants to can, not to the same level of expertise but can find improvement or not to a specific requirement, then it would be best to check if any improvement in one area is not to the detriment of something else important. You've been altering things on your car going back years without an R+D department to help you. No and you don't need to, you have your real car, which you can drive in your real world circumstances and take measurements and recordings like you do with oil and coolant, TC6, this gauge, that gauge, recorded figures from this way and that way. This is the same just using different measuring and recording instruments. You will not accept anything until you have tested it, so you need to do tests. Try this, try that see what is better, no difference or worse. It's what the R=D companies do and the racers. Theory is all well and good but the real world has no concept of theories only testing can sort things, even after computer programs have already "sorted" things, drive a much more modern car and you will soon discover this. .

All depends on where you live, how you drive, how you expect the tyres to perform. The wheel and tyres sizes offered on modern cars are more form over function more party frocks and high heels than sensible wear for what's required. Whilst the car is new to a driver then the standard tyres it comes with are best whilst the driver learns the vehicle and what it can do then after a reasonable period of learning and adjustments if wanted then a change of tyres (better still, if possible to smaller wheels and narrower tyres with more sidewall height for our 3rd-world roads, grip and perform can be retained or improved from original wheel and tyre sizes). I used to give a set of tyres up to 1,000 miles to see if I like them, mainly on performance vehicles, but that luxury is in the past, now I adapt my driving to suit what's on the car until the tyres need changing and improve the tyres then.

Another quick thought, rather than a garage someone who installs or repairs infotainment / "stereos" / electronics / computers might(?) be a better bet.

If you don't have access to a relevant level scan tool for your car model and year then If you look on the following link there might be a Briskoda member near you able to give you a scan report or even perhaps a solution, most are amateurs and happy to take beer tokens, others might be professionals. Whoever uses a scan tool, including Dealerships and other professionals you need to check the scan tool has the program for your model and year and that program is fully updated, many are very lazy or ignorant of such things. I would also ask for any error codes to be deleted, another thing some garages and people don't bother doing. Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me)

No it's not, you drive the car with sensors located, this is real world testing specific to your car and the circumstances it is driven in. Tests do not have to be complicated just thorough.

Hi, welcome. As put this could be two separate issues (or perhaps one combined). Like lots on modern cars it's a computer so first thing I'd try is "switching it off 'n' on agen" by pulling its power fuse for a while or go into the menu and find a factory reset for it. Check for any needed software update or search on this forum for the various similar (same?) issue(s) and see how they were resolved - or do a Google search which might bring you back to this forum anyway. 'Skoda Fabia Mk III (2014-2021)' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/298-skoda-fabia-mk-iii-2014-2021/ Be interesting to know how the garage diagnosed a new head unit was required, did they give you a scan tool report showing all the errors or any sort of live data record. Obviously over an internet we can't know for sure that is wrong but it does sound a bit like replacing a main component when a clean, repair or replacement of a part might fix the problem. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Be interesting to see how long it lasts if it's one from the Chinese government backed export trade push. Be interesting to get a real life review after 3 or 4 years of summer use.

In the UK you can buy time in a wind tunnel for testing, I've known of someone who has done this but he was writing a book, no doubt now you could get the car mapped for computer simulations but nothing beats real world testing to be sure. You can buy sensors for heat and airflow and place them in various locations on the car and record real world circumstances. Of course this takes time, effort, patience and careful recording of the results and all the variables. As you are only really interested in heat over summer you only need to do this over summer perhaps starting in late spring and going on to early autumn to be sure. Then how will this affect your winter warming worries about getting the engine warmed as quickly as possible. Even the experts in this area employed by the car manufacturers make mistakes despite all the time and development facilities they have at their disposal but you don't have the marketing and sales regions environments worry of the car manufacturers.

Surely you need to do more research about where the cooling air can enter and engine bay hot air can go when your car is going slow or stationary in city traffic, at lower speeds when climbing mountain roads, in hot summer weather.

Why not just cut out every other one and keep a factory and correct period look to it.

Brand and model?

I don't know about phones but with PC/laptop hover your cursor over the posters name symbol thingy (I've no idea what it's called) and you will see when the poster last visited the site. -