Former

Well I removed my wife's phone from a 2023 VW product. I tried reading the SEAT's infotainment instruction book but it was beyond my comprehension (not in plain English) so I just went through the menus to set things up as my wife wanted including "installing" and "deinstalling" her phone, I also removed over devices still on there (presumably delivery/collection drivers. We never normally use Tw*tNavs (we have a paper road atlas and I pre-look on Google Earth and Streetview) but I noticed addresses in there including hirer's depot.

I managed to delete phone connection on a 2023 hire SEAT by IIRC going through Bluetooth and paired device, can't remember details but there must have been a delete/remove option on listed devices.

Might depend on model of course but I've got a feeling I've seen on Briskoda that the rear fog fixings(?)and bulb holder(?) are there for UK on a LHD but I could well be wrong as I was the out of date speedo thing. Whether the fog light change needs setting up with an appropriate scan tool I can't remember. All vague all possibly wrong and as with any info all needs checking.

You really need to contact government agencies to get this right otherwise you may get good intentions but incorrect advice - such as IIRC the speedo at some point had to indicate or highlight a 30 mph in some way but I could well be wrong or no longer applies.

Nonsense you car look fabulous in that photo, even more so considering it's a car used for 29 years (and red).

Before ordering a part I'd check the computers aren't on a brain-fart or need resetting from the previous incident with a VW appropriate scan tool making sure the scan tool program for you model and year has been fully updated. IF the scan tool resets anything but there is an actual fault the fault will show with warnings again immediately you start the car so no worries about driving with an actual fault. It's possible to have a coincidence of possibly overfilling oil and an oil switch faulty but 1.5 litres in a near empty engine and the dipstick showing full is strange. I'd trust a correct dipstick used correctly more than any sensor or computer program. Good luck, let us know the outcome of all of this.

I held back as long as I could - you don't need all that, so much of it, to deduce the resonance off the door panel, you are carrying unnecessary extra weight - which means you are reducing your power-to-weight and increasing your mpg !! How is that going to look on the TC-6 spreadsheet. 😉

In the video he said he had spent a lot of time in Slovakia and that region and given he's American or North America, sounding at least, he is quite unusual in his travels and efforts of pronunciation, and being able to drive a car with a manual gearbox. His enthusiasm and knowledge seem genuine (and not just getting incorrect facts from the internet and copying what other YouTubers get wrong). I was disappointed the removable rechargeable torch boot light wasn't mentioned, and there's usually mention of the toolkit which some seemed to find extensive (and well made), usually from those with no experience of older cars. In America they not only call things different to the UK their English spellings are also different, such as the UK word colour is spelt without the letter u included. In the UK, around my local area at least, Favorit would be "Fav-rit" rather than "Favourite" because of the lack of the letter e on the end. It was mainly the condition of the car, and the fact that, unless I'm mistaken, that it was in America, that got me. The video was also well presented, a couple of minor editing glitches could easily be forgiven with the overall quality and genuine enthusiasm for the subject.

Whichever 50* ** spec is best, usually the current ones, 504 00 might be better than 502 00 if the oil is designed to last longer but you can take your pick which 50* ** you want. - "Recommended for ACEA C3, API SN, SM, SL, . . . Audi / VW Group VW 504 00 / 507 00, VW 506 00 / 506 01, VW 503 00 / 503 01, VW 502 00 / 505 01, VW 502 00 / 505 00, VW 500 00 / 501 01" - https://cdn.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/millersoils/20230912-7877-EE-PERFORMANCE-C3-5w30.pdf

This might interest a few owners of older Škodas, a stunning looking 1990 Favorit 136 LS from a 2024 video. 1990 Škoda Favorit 136LS Review - The Czechoslovakian Car That Made It Out Of Communism! - Enjoy.

In my wife's 2015 1.2 TSI the engine oil is normally warmed to 90c, according to the car's oil temperature display (which is hopefully more accurate than its outside temperature display) at around 7 miles into a journey. I don't even like the car but as I was able to do the engine oil and filter change this year in a short respite from the back issues, partially caused by the bloody VW wheel bolts, I used Millers EE Performance Engine Oil C3 5w30 and Mann filter, both much better quality than the wretched car deserves but it often does journeys of only 2 miles and enough things fail on it already without causing more. I have no interest in getting oils with a VW or VW Aldi Group label on the bottles and little interest in whether the oil has VW's approval as long as it meets their (ever changing) specifications.

I have some idea of how it is as I've only recently been able to get under a car and back up again without some difficulty after a good few years of not being able (thanks partly to bloody silly VW wheel bolts instead of studs but that's only one reason I dislike my wife's VW car) but unfortunately lack of frequent/regular reasonable distance use of the car means you really need to change the oil (and filter) more regularly not less. The 350 motorway miles would do the car a power of good generally.

For a test just take a clean sure earth connection from the battery negative terminal using any suitable length of appropriate wire. For direction live or earth testing I just use a long length of twin wire with four female spade connectors, two at each end, battery end then get crocodile clips to go to battery terminals and other ends gets a wire tail with male spade one end and whatever connector is required at other, a simplified version of some probes, This eliminates any connectors and switches and stuff from battery to item to just test live or earth supply and that the item fully functions with a clean supply.

A quick Google search gives a Golf and capacity as 3.6 litres but no more info than that number which, if correct, only gives you an approximation, presumably (always dangerous) you take off about 0.5l for filter so starting to fill with 2l seems a good choice. If doing the work yourself and you're not a Billy-big-bo**ocks (large-testicles braggard) there's no need to rush the refill and it can be done in various stages adding a little at a time and checking, no need to work down to low professional standards. I never fully top up until the next day after the car has parked overnight first and then been driven. Depending on the car/engine I sometimes never fully top up (unless the car is going to get driven hard) and leave it at a level that it normally likes. Absolute oil quantities don't matter you just want to get out as much old oil and muck as you can and replace it with as much fresh (good quality) new oil as appropriate. By the few remarks about that engine and my very limited experience of VW's rough sounding engines I'd put in a very good quality oil and at an average annual mileage of around 6k-miles I'd change the engine oil and filter at least one a year every year with very god quality oil if I wanted to see the car out many years later (and depending on the gearbox change that oil and the "lifetime" coolant.

From table - "Approximative oil capacity with oil filter change". - This is assuming the table is correct with all the information it gives, which it may or may not be, even if the source is the engine manufacturer. You are either going to buy 3 or 4 (as appropriate) 1 litre bottles or a 4 or 5 litre 'can' depending on how much oil the engine wastes between fills or the large 'cans' may work out more economical, if not as easy to pour into the engine. You don't want to damage the engine but there's no need to baby or pamper it (or it's computer programs).

Hopefully that has sorted things, now you have the reader you can check for any error code returns, I think it's a good idea to record the scan then delete any and all error codes every time. Each scan tool or scan tool company programs have their faults and seem to find odd different things to report so you aren't sure if it's the car or the scan tool having a brain-fart but if they delete and don't return or they're not serious or invasive you can generally forget them, especially on a 19 year old car and computer systems. Depends on traffic of course but motorways or dual-carriageways are better for a car to maintain a more constant speed and less gear changes (gears/clutch) and braking, better preparation for climbing or descending hills, steadier airflow if overheating might be an issue, often a better place to breakdown on or get to somewhere like a petrol station or other. To close/conclude this thread - which App did you get?

Did you look at the box or plugs, IIRC they're NGK anyway. regardless a good price for installation.

You're going to have to be in a right state not to outlast a 2010 VW, perhaps if it were a 2005 or earlier (last century/millennium) it might stand of outlasting you! 🙂 3.5 might include or exclude oil filter and usually refers to a dry fill that isn't possible unless at factory or the engine has been fully pulled apart cleaned and dried on the draining board. I've done a few engine, gearbox and axle oil (and coolant) changes over the decades and getting the oil as hot as possible, with drain holes usually at the very bottom, leaving as long as practical as possible to drain, there was lots/plenty of residue oil (and muck) is left in, Refill quantity is always less than is quoted in databases. Each change is only partial the aim only to be as much as practically possible each time. A cold quick change will also get a bit less than a very hot long drain. I saw that you got 3l of oil out using your suckytub through the dipstick hole that seems good going so if you put about 3l or a bit less back in that should be good. Depends which warning lights and alarms you mean but it might be one of the computer programs or sensors has now got a headache, they're very easy to upset, if it was me unless it was low oil pressure I'd leave the engine idling for a while and check the warning lights and gauges and/or take the car for a quick drive as the computers can get over things and settle down, mechanical checks like oil on dipstick are more usually more accurate and more reliable. I almost feel off my chair when I saw the price of the TP69 but then I remembered the cost of my 30 year old Hozelok plastic pump-spray thing all those years back, that'll have to outlast me as I'm not paying to replace that! 😄

Quick thoughts. Any chance the end of the suction tube is stuck down the dip hole hole of further? Couldn't you mechanic mate just remove the brass drain valve to have the drain hole fully open for draining? Do your quantities include or exclude the oil filter? Fill capacity obviously is related to drain capacity at the time various people will get various amounts by various methods but your figures cover a very wide range, your sucking out quantity seems high, what is the dry fill capacity of your engine? That's all.

ETA: I've just thought - you might be dealing with the car issue(s) on the Fabia Mk1 forum and want to leave this thread to your thread title, which I can't help you with but others can, in which case ignore my previous post.

Yes things are more difficult away from home and Sod's Law that's when things go wrong all you can do is use what is available and you can get hold of in time. You can check the basics like all electric and hose and other (air, fuel, etc.) connections are tight and secure, nothing rubbing or frayed and look for leaks. You always have yourself as a tool and diagnostic kits, then you can usually buy or borrow basic tools or seek help from others there, paid or unpaid, tools, parts and materials can be posted/delivered to you perhaps as you were with the app and you got the coil pack(?). To help avoid other issues you could prepare the car as much as possible for the journey back and pick an unstressful route as possible back, have oil, coolant, washer fluid, fuel, tyres, etc. all fully topped up, reduce electric load and if required road speed whilst keeping up cooling air flow to engine. As you have a 105 I guess you might know a bit about roadside repairs and getting home. What was the car getting hot and when was the misfire happening and what lead to to buy a new coil pack?

It may have to be an equivalent standard and similar cost as LightE probably lives outside the UK with "Living in a fairly warm place (mostly 30c+)" from the opening post but still a good point made.

It depends on how you arrived at the conclusion that the coil pack was likely culprit and why the car was so hot as to whether you have got a correct conclusion. I might be misunderstanding because of lack of details (and I not knowing much technical stuff) but you seem to be putting the cart before the horse (doing things backward). Scan tools of whatever make model or sort are only one diagnostic tool (nor error codes always) though they can sometimes pinpoint the source of the problem this is not always, they're not a magic bullet or diagnostics and checks and confirmation need to be made to also check that there isn't more than one source of the issue or even more issues. I think you might be better asking in the Fabia Mk1 forum which apps VRS owners use and to perhaps check your diagnosis. Whatever scan tool you use you do want to ensure it can deal with your VW model and that the program for that model is always up to date with updates to it also always consider that the scan tool or app could have errors or give erroneous information or readings so always counter check any diagnosis and where possible pre-test any testing tools before carrying out tests with them, a lot of hassle time and money can be wasted on machines and computer programs giving false results or not working correctly or at all. Never neglect mundane basic checks just because you have sexy tools available. You didn't need a scan tool to tell you that the engine had an intermittent misfire that (I presume) came from your senses of sight, touch (feel) and perhaps hearing, you can also, where appropriate, use your eyes, nose, taste. For finding which coil is bad (if it is) with cautions so you don't damage yourself (very most importance) or the car (important but very, very much less so) you could follow what's done in the following video, without enough caution(s). - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qe-XWsTI9Lo HTH.

Unusually for me I didn't miss that, it's a language thing, I think sparticus-84 will know what I mean by the phrase would be handy, literal and non-literal meanings.

You are best to check your tyre pressures with an accurate reliable gauge, these can be very inexpensive to buy and use the same gauge to check the four tyres when the tyres are 'cold' this is usually early morning before the sun is on on them or at later night when the car has not been driven for a while. Check the four tyres with your accurate reliable gauge as above and get the tyres to the tyre pressures in the first column(s) settings for your wheel size and drive around for a few days at that setting and see how it suits your driving, environment and vehicle use then inflate the four tyres to the 'Eco' pressures and drive around for a few days at those settings to see which your prefer or is best for your driving, environment and vehicle use. Tyres are a very underrated but important component in the braking, steering and suspension systems on the car, despite all the electronics and computer programs they are the only four small patches of 'rubber' in contact with the driving surface and the correct tyre pressures are important for safety and economy. Do not just rely on the car's warning systems as a driver you need to check things before they go wrong and to prevent them going wrong and this includes things like tyre pressures. There is lots of information about tyres and their maintenance on the internet and tyre manufacturers' websites, including this forum. Good luck.