Former

Milligan Auto Diagnostics - https://www.youtube.com/@mrautoservices7354

As far as I remember, which isn't as far at all, you might need to set it up with the steering sensors, perhaps in addition to 'coding' or perhaps not, others will know better. There will probably be videos about this on YouTube or the internet. As merely a start to getting the steering wheel off see my notes and included useful video off YT. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/495151-windscreen-wipers-dont-turn-off-come-on-by-themselves/#comment-5557014 HTH a bit.

No they don't. I doubt they have the motor inside them to do so but wouldn't know for sure, looking at parts numbers may show up a difference. I guess your trim level is Ambition. As far as I know if you have manual rear wind-up windows you can not program them to raise or lower from the remote keyfob (a real nuance to me if the car has electric windows, I would prefer all manual wind-up windows personally, less weight, less to go wrong, less farting about to me). Whether models with four electric windows can be programmed and whether a Dealer level programmer is required I don't know. If you want to you can add more details to your name plate, such as mine just as an example, and/or dropping the number 3 from Fabia might save future confusion, or it might just be me confused. -

@Jocko just fyi you can save post space and virtual ink by losing the route bit on the link and just go to the end of the number. - https://www.amazon.co.uk/MOTOPOWER-MP69033-Universal-Diagnostic-Protocol/dp/B07Z3HB7DR/

Yes I did wonder, is your model actually a Fabia Mk2 or are you outside of the UK. According to Wiki (I don't know if it's right or wrong) - "The second generation Fabia trim levels were Classic, Ambiente, Sport and Elegance. In the UK the trim levels were called 1, 2, Sport, 3, and GreenLine (later S, SE, Elegance, and GreenLine). In India, the trim levels were Active, Classic, Ambiente and Elegance. All models sold within the EU were equipped with ABS, front passenger, driver and side airbags. Curtain airbags and ESC were available as an option." Have you got four eclectic door windows or are the two at the rear manual crank handle wind up and not electric (my personal preference)?

I've always found the description trim a bit ambiguous but in this instance I think it means is your 2015 Fabia Mk3 a - S, SE, SE L or Monte Carlo. I don't think it includes the "Colour Concept" but others may think differently.

For info only - VWŠkoda free downloadable pdf versions of the Owner's Manal, including for older cars, are available on the following VWŠkoda link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

To me all modern cars for a couple of decades now have had far too oversized wheels and tyres, it just fashion, and customer demand for fashion too, all this fill the arches. To me 18" is a silly wheel size and 225/40r18 is a silly tyre size but others would want even bigger and wider. 225/45r17 may give a better ride but it's not just about numbers, tyres are a very complex and overlooked important component on the car, an important part of the braking, steering and suspension systems. Different tyres will give different results to all three and the road holding, handling, ride comfort and noise not limited to their size. Possibly you could go for 2015/55r16, depends on your model (size of brakes perhaps). Have a look here for the calculations. - https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/

If the removable torch (and boot light?) are on same circuit and the supply fuse had blown then the batteries would be flat but charging from flat wouldn't be the cause of the blown fuse, at least not in itself.. With the fused replaced the torch batteries might pick up again given a chance. I'd check the contacts are clean on torch and its charging socket. If the torch doesn't pick up again I assume you can just replace the chargeable batteries, been over 30 years since my wife had that feature on her Favorit. Was you able to plug in an VW appropriate scan tool with the program for your model fully up to date to see if any error codes were stored or live data or actuation tests?

Valves normally would be included as they'd be replaced if they were old tyres on existing wheels.

Thanks for reporting back. Very strange. I assume the 10A fuse looked factory original and correct amperage and fuse location. Wiring can do funny stuff especially with all these computer bits involved but that does sound odd. Wonder what caused the fuse to 'blow' in the first place. If everything works and remains working including replacement fuse then I'd personally not care and be happy it's sorted Well done.

Hi welcome. You'd have to check of course but it sounds like you might just need a replacement light switch. You'd probably be better looking in and/or asking in the 'Škoda Yeti' forum on Briskoda. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/170-škoda-yeti/ HTH.

"Battery Charge Condition" I'm not sure what this means, is it a human language translation from another language to English. Others I've seen show battery charge in volts and battery "health" in percentage. I'll leave this to @rum4mo as I think he has graphs of such(?). Some of those selections would be interesting to see to compare with static tests with a multimeter. Do have a read of those pdfs I put up, and they're from VW.

IIRC there was planned lay-off in 2029(?) anyway. My concern may not apply in your case but I've seen a poster put that he went to a good reputable company to sort a new key and they had a rare event where they could not sort the new key and a new computer part and manufacturing level programming to sort the new key and get it working. Mixing different systems can sometimes cause issues, with my car luck I would definitely have problem but for you and your car if might be entirely different.

I reverse things all the time, often thinking I mean the opposite and forgetting which opposites are actually correct. That's the lowest figure I've seen being quoted for this mostly I've seen 80% and recently 70%, as AGM batteries are said to be happy at 80% I'd have thought that'd be the figure but I forget things and who knows what figures VW set in their computer programs. I've no idea how accurate OBDEleven or other meters are and whether it's referring to state of charge or health but just having it plugged in will pull some little voltage in its use. For voltage see the VW and Ring figures and allow for any car electrics running and the OBDEleven but I'd have thought the OBDEleven would just show a voltage figure rather than percentage, if the 62% is state of health then the figure is more useful as a comparison against later figures and again how accurate is the figure and would it vary with another meter being used. Some posters have put they disconnect for very long periods and others have put not to as it messes with VW's computer programming and system running, I've not seen anyone putting the world has ended either way. I just leave it connected (generally switch off the start/stop each trip or engine start) and just do a few very occasional battery recharges using an appropriate battery charger maintainer having read the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and charger. This is because my wife's car regularly does very short journeys. It's not just journey length it's how much of the various car's electrics is used before the start, during and after the journey. As well as driving differently some people use a lot more than others. I think a coin-slot meter for battery use would be useful to teach some what uses how much, particularly for young pampered offspring. Attached will give you more info. - SSP-504_Vehicle_Batteries.pdf

It may depend on whether you are doing the work yourself or paying for professional labour. You would probably be better posting in the 'Skoda Fabia Mk I (1999-2007)' forum for more detailed information and advice, hyperlink below. You could if you wanted add more model details, such as engine type and size to your name plate to be seen by some but not all at each post you make as my example. Skoda Fabia Mk I (1999-2007) - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/26-skoda-fabia-mk-i-1999-2007/ HTH

I must have had a very rare day when Sod/s Law didn't apply when I opened the folding key fob and kept all the pieces together but I do have to thank VWŠkoda for the privilege of trying this when the remote packed up and I had to walk down to my wife's place of work on THE coldest day of the year and for the privilege of contributing £180+ to the Dealership/VwŠkoda and UK taxes on a VWŠkoda part that should have lasted many more years. If that was the only very premature failing part it'd not been so bad but it wan't, isn't. Stick with your older VW cars and don't be tempted to the newer VWs, well much into this century/millennium anyway (or any German marque). For those that haven't heard there might be interest in this. - BBC World Service, World Business Report, Why's Europe's car industry stuck in neutral? - https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/w3ct607g "We start in Germany, where perhaps the biggest warnings yet about the pressure on Europe's car industry have come from one of the continent's biggest firms. Volkswagen - VW - has warned it could close factories for the first time in its history as it comes under increasing financial pressure. Also today the boss of one of the world's biggest delivery firms warns of disruption to global trade, And, fancy an AI dating - wingman?"

Folding or non-folding?

Hi welcome. 2005 VRS what, what engine, what mileage, what history, what other condition of vehicle, what country are you in?

A typo, negative side of battery. For the rest this is from VW in 2009. - SSP-426-Start-stop-system-2009.pdf

Been in a few cars, was in the Honda S2000., I think it's to give a sort of racing car feel can't think what real benefit it would bring, bow of course you have "keyless" start, KESSY for VWŠkoda (and VW?) which have issues and possibly facilitate easier theft of the vehicle.

I didn't use to struggle but then I got ill and old, I've always been a bit stupid and being a man a bit extra macho stupid (always much less than many tho'). Yeap seen a few Turners, at shows usually, until a couple of years ago I had a 1973 Midget as my daily and only car for the previous 16 years and 15+ years before that various other British "classics" as dailies and for work, commuting, holidays and club tours and events and I had to be sure the MoT testers knew a little about "classics" but with the Midget still got intermittent advisories about slight play in king pin(s) despite them never being touched and always greasing up the six points just before the MoT. Spridget wheel bolts were only 44-46ftlb torque, despite telling and give it on paper to all garages/mechanics and tyre places over the years twice I had tyre places do a stud. I supposed the Ford bloke was more used to dealing with tradesmen as Transit owners, I'm afraid I'd have been a bit sarcastic with him if he'd have given me that reply and want it in ftlbs not that it'd matter at 200mn, must have been fun getting that at the roadside with the tool kit wheel brace. 😆 I've never experienced a flyoff handbrake but think I've passenger'd in at least one car with it. I used to do passenger rides for charity donations with our club and one time with the Midget a lady in her early 20s said "oh you have a switch" when I turned the wipers on, I thought she meant a switch on the dash instead of column stalk and it was only when I got back I realised she was only used to or seen automatic wipers, made me feel very old. 😆

You can check the battery voltage with a handheld multimeter with the probes on the battery terminals after the car has been parked up for as many hours as possible or (if you must, not my favourite way) one of these cheap plug-in (to 12v socket) what I've just discovered are sometimes called DVM (digital volt meter) or an appropriate battery charger maintainer will give you a readout (do read the car's Owner's Manual and battery charger maintainer instructions when using charging the battery). There will be some drop for all the car's electrics still going when parked up. The following VW figures would refer to the battery out of the car sitting on a bench. - Charge level No-load voltage 1.28 g/cm3 100% 12.7 V 1.21 g/cm3 60% 12.3 V 1.18 g/cm3 40% 12.1 V 1.10 g/cm3 0% 11.7 V And Ring charger figures - 12.7v - 100% 12.5v - 90% 12.4v - 80% 12.3V - 70% 12.2v - 60% 12.1v - 50% 11.9v - 40% 11.8v - 30% 11.6v - 20% 11.3v - 10% The engine still starting means very little to the battery possibly being in a lower state of charge, however you should get some sort of message if the engine needs to run, by the time you have any difficulty starting the engine the battery will be very low and will suffer if not very soon fully recharged, also the car's computers will possibly make you suffer with all sorts of unexpected issues and unseen error codes or reports even before warning lights and messages perhaps, there are many threads on Briskoda with this. Why have you got your foot on the brake pedal(?), as the other posters have put that's probably the cause of the issue. Same as you would probably get slightly more mpg with using cruise control than just keeping your foot on the accelerator pedal because when you think you are holding your foot steady you are actually most probably making at least micro movements. Try sticking to an exact speed with the digital speedo you'll find it's difficult to maintain an exactly continuous speed readout. You still would be best to check the battery on a 2020 car new to you especially a VW product with start/stop unless you have know the car very well from brand new. I recommend, when required, preventative battery charging and sometime just driving the car isn't enough for longer battery life and reliability so an appropriate battery charger maintainer is needed, lower amperage is generally better. Do read the car's Owner's Manual and battery charger maintainer instructions when using charging the battery. Just one (mains pug in) example suggestion (many others available) is the Ring RSC 900. - https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc904-4a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html For driving and learning lots of very useful information that could save you the hassle, time and cost of Dealership/garage/mechanic/auto-electrician visits and unnecessary parts read and refer to the Owner's Manual. - https://digital-manual.skoda-auto.com/ HTH.

Quite a few passive error codes, have you tried clearing those and driving the car with those lights on for a few miles? Did the garage clear these codes and they reappeared? Only left rear door warning shows as active, and "Electrical error in circuit" - with the Autel can you do testing of turn the light on via the scanner? The scan tool does need to be fully up to date with its program for your (Europe?) model and year to avoid errors and get information and advice if part of the purchase package, if you borrowed the scanner do check it is fully up to date as many either don't realise or can't be bothered keeping up with all the updates.

relates to much later car and computer programs but shows there can be issues even with factory systems.