Former

No that's not really the case and those would be generalities but it's such a topic that would wear my typing finger out and yes those generalities you gave are a bit right. If I remember I'll link in some threads about what you need to learn about the car generally but there's loads of info in the Fabia Mk3 forum, tyres, wheels, suspension here too, Carlston has already given you good information and advice. One of the very best tuning things for your car, after timely and regular full whole car servicing, maintenance and repairs, is further driver training and it can be transferred to other similar vehicles for free time and time again, doesn't matter if you're new to driving or been driving for decades. There's lots pf information and poor or disinformation on the internet and errors and omissions (I make plenty of both all the time) so you have to check and cross reference any information you get from any source (including manufacturers and supplier (and especially car salesmen). Handling and road holding has a lot to do with the design, build, make up and composition of the tyre and fit to wheel as to going up a size or two, it also depends on how you want to drive and how able you are at driving. The Fabia Mk3 in standard form is quite a wallowy car anyway. Unless you are unlucky if you look after your tyres, tyre pressures correct, don't go bumping up kerbs, or drop-kerbs too quickly, then you may never get a need to use a spare wheel, but if you carry a spare don't be like many and have it under-inflated or even flat so that the one time you need it in years (or decades) it's not fully, or at all, fit for purpose I easily survived for 30+ years off and on without carrying a spare wheel or kit, just a manual foot pump in the boot (and accurate tyre pressure gauge at home).

Some parts are easier to get and not a lot more (sometimes less) from the Dealership spare parts department.

Diagnostics have been visual and (inaccurate at times) tick sheets for my wife's car at The two different VWSkoda Dealerships over the time. Brakes and tyres are purely visual with some advantageous, to the Dealer, guessing about brake wear and tyre replacement. Yeap, sorry I meant to put I saw that but different presentation, possibly not from Dealership but the national lot and it has data is limited to the service work. I'd still, with my charm, looks and modesty, ask the current VWSkoda Dealers to print me off (A4) paper record of the "Complete record" to see how it compares, as I put ours doesn't record MoTs. The last "Complete record" my wife bothered to get (she can't get out of the Dealership fast enough) was "2020-09-22" (computer date, in English 22-9-2020) so perhaps the computer or computer system or its presentation has changed since then. Regardless no mention of some of the items you and I mentioned, cabin filter is included in air con service, at 3 years in this instance. A scan tool report might show if the misfire is at one cylinder so that swapping out may find if its plug/coil.

Why, it's only worth doing if you need the space for your knuckles and/or elbow, but as always I'm sure you'll go your own way, even if you do shift quicker you'll probably be waiting for box to catch up (and perhaps clutch). I had an almost off/on clutch hydraulics (rally sport) but it made no odds the family saloon Ford type 9 gearbox took it's time still.

You have some history which is good, always needs to be verified from whatever source. Your list isn't the VWSkoda Dealership computer record presentation we get (when my wife remembers to ask) for her 2016. Hers doesn't list MoTs even when the Dealership done the servicing at the same time. It does include "Vehicle data" to confirm VIN (which you may have left out for obvious reasons), "Delivery inspection"' "Workshop remark" ( Recall, obviously only those admitted to by VWSkoda and if appropriate to vehicle) and then their phrases for what little service and maintenance work gets done. - "Flexible oil change service" "Inspection with oil change" (so I expected "Inspection service" may exclude oil change but who knows) "Oil change service" All these are just an engine oil change and look for more work that they can charge for rather than a whole car service. They class some stuff as "Maintenance" and list it as "Additional work carried out" like - "brake fluid service", "spark plug" (singular), (engine) "Air cleaner element" (cabin) "Dust and pollen filter". 11, 323 miles in 5 years! Probably less expensive to have had hire cars for that milage for the previous owner(s), You've not mentioned any servicing or other work since 14 Dec 2022. Below is an old VWSkoda servicing and maintenance schedule (so ignore prices), notice the cambelt I've blocked out (robbing bastards). Priorities are brakes, steering, suspension, (as put before tyres are part of all three), safety electrics (lights, horn, blower perhaps), windows and mirrors (and number plates) see and be seen. Despite passing the annual Mot which is just a test to see that the vehicle meets the minimum statutory requires to one person's (hopefully) trained opinion at (only) one point in time it doesn't mean the vehicle is as good as it could or should be so (if you've not already done so) initially id be giving regular and frequent exercise to items that may not have seen much use at some periods given the very low mileage like horn, wipers and washers, front and rear, turn knobs on steering wheel, switches, blower range, lights. And take the car out for a few blow out runs exercising the steering, brakes, suspension, clutch, engine, gearbox - this I would only do once I knew the car was up to it as I'd have done any missing servicing and maintenance, Personally I'd change the engine air filter every 2 years as the air filter box has to come off to get at the plugs (at 4 years) anyway on my wife's 2015 1.2 (4cylinder) TSI. HTH.

Narh, it's not a VW diesel, it's the petrol engine, VWSkoda reckon 80c-110c IITC in the owners manual for normal range, a better engine oil (not that I'm saying VWSkoda Dealerships use a better oil) will got 125c and 150c for peaks, not that you'd want a road car getting anywhere near that. But you are better at about 90c, assuming the sensors, program and gauge are about accurate and depending where you measure from. The outside temperature on my wife's car can read about 28c when it's been sitting facing the sun at 21c air temperature and takes a while to come down when driven, we assume it's the correct temperature for somewhere near a Germany factory or programmer's home. My wife often asks me to guess what temperature the Fabia gives, I then have to guess how far she might just have driven and what the actual air temperature might be, sometimes the Fabia is about right or even the same. 😄 Same with the amber triangle of doom with the lights, it can be a bit hit and miss, aren't computers marvellous. 😁

You want the 'Full record' from a VWSkoda Dealer to confirm what is on the computer records, check the MoT record to confirm mileage and dates and see any advisories. https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history VWSkoda UK robbing bastards done the expensive cambelt change, we got caught for that too £420 IIRC. After I've listened to The Archers and done the washing up I'll look at your service list (always check and confirm any info you get from any source).

Plugs plus air filter (and air filter box and tubes cleaning inside (nothing a Dealership would probably bother with even though it's just a quick wipe with cloth). Three plugs (coils) means they share more of percentage each than four, 33.3 against 25, so if even one is a bit off it's more noticeable. Only on basic generic codes and if it's better than that if you don't keep it fully updated it could give you bad info. The German marques VW included have prided themselves for a good while back with having complex intertwined (and interfering) computer programs. You really need a VW program on you scan tool (code reader will only just about read some codes). My advice to those new to these cars is never to let your car battery get too low in charge and where necessary do preventative charges with an appropriate battery charger maintainer. The battery charge can be too low even though the engine starts straight away and the lights seem bright enough. Before you get the start/stop or battery warnings the battery can already be too low and cause all sorts of unexpected issues and warnings and unseen error codes. By the time you have any issue starting the engine straight away you may well have the battery in a condition that it will not fully recover from. Also read the Owner's Manual and refer to it often as it will tell you a lot you need to know about your car and if you refer to it often it can save you time, hassle and money and visits to garages. If you've not got the paper printed copy you can get a free VWSkoda pdf download from this VWSkoda website. -https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Update portal for some updates. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ Here is the site for the VWSkoda Recalls (well those they admit to anyway). - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns I would guess at 15k-miles the battery might have already been changed at least once. A low milage little use car needs in many way more maintenance and servicing and not less as many think. 2017 is at least 7 years so if it's on original tyres whilst they may have a good level of tread depth on them depending on how the car has been kept (outside/garage) and used or not used the tyres may be hard and best changed for new. Tyres are are big part of braking, also steering and suspension, road holding, handing, ride noise and comfort. Then there brake fluid to check if not changed (a couple of times) already. Servicing work should be done by mileage or time interval, if the car has such low mileage it may be from many short journeys where the engine oil doesn't get fully warmed (say 90c on the oil (not coolant) gauge) so actually needs more engine oil & filter changes not less). Finally some vids of use Fabia Mk3 info. - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHH-B9onXpOqdKjFA815CBd7YB4hocem5. HTH.

ETA: I have seen oil in three digits but I was going pretty quick on an empty dual carriageway to give the car a much needed blowout. Quite recently someone put they see 106c but I can't remember if that was in a 1.2 TSI (Fabia).

Yeah that's a bit low, better other side of 90c. I can't remember how long it might take to get to 87 but IIRC getting to 93c in about 6 miles of mainly 40/60 mph roads with weather at about 10c or below from a cold start. In winter we might not get much of a reading just driving the few miles to my wife's work where the engine might then be allowed to go cold for another 8 or 9 hour before the same journey back.

You might not want that on your winter cold starts, it's all compromises.

Yes Really yes. See my post of 3 hours ago (at 14:16 pm).

Unless you have very smooth roads in London 17" wheels with 40(%) profile tyres don't make a lot of sense for practicality, modern fashionable cosmetics may be. just to give you and idea, 215/40r17 tyre has a nominal sidewall height of 3.4" (86mm) whereas 185/60r15 4.4" (112mm) so 1" (26mm) (29%) more rubber and air cushioning from the third world roads of the UK. Even 215/45r16 gives 0.4" (11mm) (12%) more. - https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/

ETA: this is is the 'Handy Topics & Guides' forum. You might be better asking this in the General maintenance or Kamiq 2023 forums. Carlston would probably know or access the information. HTH.

As Scotty Kilmer would say, it's just a beauty cover. It might have some very minor effect as a sound and heat insulator. If you wanted you could possibly refit it with a hinge arrangement to give the access you have gained without it on. Give your tyre size, final drive/axle ratio and gear ratios and I've a formula given to me by someone else that could work out the rev drop in the gears from whatever revs, I'm sure Thefeliciahacker could also look at some formulas or tables or calculate it too.

As a generality modern incandescent bulbs are poor quality, don't bulb a cheap unbranded, if you can find a two or three times life bulb made by a good brand from a reputable source get those. Even if a bulb doesn't 'blow' it can go silver or black and an MoT tester can take that as failed. You might find the following post useful for fitting new part and new bulb if required. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/439342-what-bulbs-for-fabia-mkiii/?do=findComment&comment=4949892 Off subject, might have put this before but I can't remember, up to you what you see on the dot screen between speedo and rev counter but I find it very useful to have the oil temperature available, by rolling the wheel thingy on the steering from selecting its display from the infotainment menu. This is because the coolant temperature guage is biased to show a rock steady 90c whether it is at 90c or not, a better way to tell if the engine and oil are fully warmed up is to see the oil temperate. For the engine oil to keep the engine healthy(ier) you want to see 90c of engine oil temperature. Book has IIRC 80-110c is fine for readings but you want 90c, if you do a lot of short journeys and you don't see 90c then you'll want to change the engine oil % filter sooner rather than later. On other than short journeys my wife's 2015 Fabia 1.2 TSI 90 shows about 95c normally, never checked on a longer motorway journey though.

With the amber triangle of doom IIRC(?) you should also have something on your infotainment screen, push the car button and go to a screen/menu there, a message and illustration of what is, or might be on false/internment alarms, never ignore them but never fully trust the computers with these messages always do physical checks yourself.

That'll be a bit of a PITA to do, fun with plastics but not the end of the world. I would cover it to stop the water getting in, and or electric grease the bulb connection if it's a plug in bulb (I've no idea I've never looked). I'm pretty sure I'd have put the following before but in case not or as a reminder - If you don't have the printed paper copy then you can get a free VWSkoda pdf copy to download from this VWSkoda site. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Some useful videos on Fabia Mk3 here. - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHH-B9onXpOqdKjFA815CBd7YB4hocem5

@Ghostrider81 hi, welcome. This and lots more useful information will be in your Owner's Manual, read it for this and to learn lots more about your car and to help save you time, hassle and money including possibly unnecessary garage visits. If you don't have the printed paper copy then you can get a free VWSkoda pdf copy to download from this VWSkoda site. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Some useful videos on Fabia Mk3 here. - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHH-B9onXpOqdKjFA815CBd7YB4hocem5 From my wife's 2015 Owner's Manual (not as eloquent as rum4mo). -

What he says from 3:00 to 3:52 would probably be more relevant on a quickshift, I doubt any shift for a car like a Felica would have the quickshift extremes of a MX-5 or that Porsche unless the Felica was used for motorsport or some youngster has the seat set so low. From your Monday post on (I've not read further back) you were the only one advocating changing to a quickshift, if you have changed your mind then that is fine and good.

Gloop and debris collect in various places or areas for various reasons. The wider the opening the less that might collect at that point. It may be that the stuff that was in your system went to your previous expansion tank and there is no more in the system, unless more is being produced, I have no idea. You would need analysts of what was in your previous expansion tank to know perhaps what it is or its origin, otherwise it's just (educated or not) guessing with a photo on the internet isn't it. You live in a warmer weather country where you drive in stop, start city traffic and gun the car up mountains so I think an occasional clean and/or thorough flushing in addition to whatever coolant changes is a good idea. If or how often you do these is up to you. The thermostat helps to control the temperature but once it is fully open it can do no more to control higher temperatures, then you have fan(s) at different levels. Once you are at or pass optimum temperature you want to prevent or restrictive the temperature getting higher as much as is practically possible, prevention being better than cure and a thoroughly clean cooling/heating system helps with this (subject to all being in reasonable good condition).

I should have guessed. 🙂 Is it not removing a drain plug and a separating a hose, to do the radiator you are taking a hose or two off, two hoses for heater if this isn't possible then just do the whole system as a whole. What solutions can you expect others to give you. If you live in a property above ground level and the car is close you could buy a water hose put it on a tap in your property and run it out of a window to your car, or use the height for gravity feed - there are loads of things you could do how practical or sensible they are to do is a different matter, like working on the car on a restrictive busy street. I wouldn't do ANY work on the car in those circumstances.

Sorry that didn't impress me, good that the chap knew his car and what to do to improve the gear change by a bit of revs matching but even with the fresh different oil the gearbox was a nightmare. Such a waste of that car being on those wide and ultra wide roads. Wearing sandals depending on the sole should make things easier, on the video he looked like he had (like me) wide feet and no disrespect to the chap but he wasn't a young slim Italian (with shorter legs and perhaps smaller and narrower feet). Best click type sound and feel to getting into gear on gear lever I have experienced was in my neighbour's 28k-miles (48,000 km) Kia Picanto, best gear lever changes and feel was on the Mk1 and Mk2 MX-5s. The clutch and its set up can make a big difference to the efficiency and enjoyment, or not, of the gear changes and feel.

No three, the engine block is also important. Best way is to use a commercially available coolant (heating) system cleaner on the whole system. I assume you have a thermostat bypass. There are plenty of alternative products. After you could flush water through the system as a whole or separate out the radiator, matrix and engine block to more thoroughly flush through as you want. You can decide when you see what comes out with the cleaning process how much is needed or wanted.

Obviously I can't help with this but I've just seen another post that might be of interest and use to you, perhaps in the future. I've no connection, don't even know the company other than seeing them on here. - Have you ever thought about Excess Protection Insurance? - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/523709-have-you-ever-thought-about-excess-protection-insurance Bear in mind I have no idea of your excesses, depending on circumstances and that policy's cost you could look at higher levels of car insurance excess (below £1k) to lower the car insurance premium.