Former

Yes and no, more to do with battery use and probably extremely low mileage which would have meant the use of an appropriate battery charger maintainer for preventative charging or maintenance, perhaps this was done, perhaps it wasn't. You will need to do this at some point in the future even though the battery is new if you use either use of lot of battery power and/or your use of the car is infrequent and/or short journey use. Even a new battery is only a store it can be depleted eventually. There's no reason why a Dealership shouldn't give you a paper print out of a 'complete record' for your car that's whatever's on the computer system which may not be much or next to nothing as it can only have what's been recorded on it. If you've had a few cars and at your age you probably already know that a car that is very low mileage and/or its use infrequent and/or short journeys will possibly come with some issues from this that higher milage cars may not so don't go spending on cosmetics until you've covered all the necessary serving, maintenance and repairs required and allowed for unexpected stuff, I always suggest a full year round driving in all conditions to really find out. The battery is sorted, you are going on to brakes, pads and disc changes are very easy (and I'm not good at mechanics) I've put up a couple of sets of notes in the Fabia section. As part of the braking system tyres need to be looked at, if the car is very low milage there might be lots of tread depth left on them but they've gone hard and deteriorated through age and lack of use not good if you want to drive the car in any sort of spirited way. This is pure speculation now, just an example, it's possible that the owner might have had a change of circumstances or possibly someone else had to take or deal with the car, might explain the missing second key and missing printed paper copy of the Owner's Manual (that's not as good or comprehensive as those of say 1970s BL cars, you're with VW now Germany manufacturers have their own way of doing things, their own numbering systems and holding back on info others freely give). Yes that's a proximity remote (I don't understand the point of them other than a gimmick) those may well be more expensive to buy and program. They take a bit more care and the key that isn't being used best kept out of range or blocked to avoid more frequent battery changing in the remotes. You've put the model as SLI is that correct as I've not seen that before? It sounds like your car might possibly(?) be loaded with stuff for more higher level of model, programs not blocked like on lower models and more features fitted, you might want to go through the Owner's Manual and Infotainment book to see what setting you might want or could do without to save battery power perhaps and set the car to how you prefer things. IF (always check any information you get from any source, including manufacturers and the internet, with a couple of other reliable sources if possible) your model is the same as my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 (Hatch) 1.2 TSI (90 SE 5-speed manual) then pollen filters - Mann CU 26 010 / CUK 26 010 / Frecious Plus FP 26 010 MAHLE LA809 / LAK809 / LAO809 cabin filter.pdf How To Remove And Replace A Skoda Fabia Mk3 Pollen/Cabin Filter -

Ian, we had to buy a new remote fob with folding keyblade January 2023, it's not the KESSY thing (proximity) though in case yours is) it was (IIRC) £141 and pence for remote and £41 and pence to code it in, from local VWSkoda Dealership. I preferred not to risk non-original and for the Dealership to take the full responsibility should there be a (very rare but I've seen it on here) problem, German cars have very complex intertwined computer systems and programs. I always suggest alternating the use of the two remote keys, in whatever way or time suits, rather than keeping one as a spare as that way you get more even wear on the remote buttons, their batteries, keyblade and cylinder locks plus you then know where to find the second remote and that it's battery works. For servicing (maintenance) don't forget the rest of the car, tyres and brakes, and other stuff for engine air filter (4 years is too long IMO) and spark plugs (air filter has to be moved for this so might as well replace it too). You may already know the following stuff, but in case not. - The state of charge and health of the battery is very important to the complex intertwined computer programs, just because the engine starts and the lights seem bright enough the battery can still be too low for the computers and they can make you suffer in all sorts of unexpected ways even before the warning messages and lights are shown. I also always advise reading the Owner's Manual and referring to it to save yourself time, hassle and money, if you don't have the paper printed copy you can get a free VWSkoda pdf version to download from here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models To complete the set, check for missing Recalls (well those admitted to). - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns 'Update portal' for a very few things you might be able to update if you want to. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ HTH.

The most drastic cleaning of all. 🙂 Good news. Don't forget the air coming in too, clean, replace really the engine air filter, VWSkoda's every 4 years is far too long for my wife's Fabia especially as the car is outside 366 of the year. You might find other improvements from this 'drastic clean' too. Good luck.

For a long time now the coolant temperate gauges have been set to show a rock steady 90c this is to reassure drivers the true temperature will not necessarily be that and could fluctuate. It will pick up the temperature from a coolant temperature sensor and it might be that which is fault (or the gauge or whatever controls the bias). If you had a scan tool plugged in recording live data you could see what temperature that picks up from the sensor - or set your dash to show oil temperature (starts at 50c on my wife's Fabia Mk3) and see if that remains steady(-ish) when going downhill. It might not show the same figure as the coolant temperature gauge at anytime but it will I think show unbiased figures. I know less about diesels than even petrol engines, so practically nothing, but I doubt the thermostat was changed unless it's a known issue but you'd soon know as you'd have been charged for the part and the fitting of it on your bill. A drop from around 90c coolant temperature to 40c would need a steep hill into very cold weather exposure. You are better to judge when your engine is fully warmed up by looking at the oil temperature than the (biased) coolant temperature gauge. HTH in some way.

Don't worry it's just me thinking what's a CE and not thinking of colour edition. 🫠 IIRC my wife's "smart" phone measured my, at the time 47 year-old car, from inside with the roof down, at 96db at 60mph. A mate now owns the car and the exhaust noise is less, he changed the timing chain and set the twin carbs up richer, don't know if he reset the valves and timing, it sounds reasonably quiet but I bet it's still above 72db inside the car with the roof down (K&N open air filters, LCB manifold, single silencer, 1.5" (38mm) centre pipe).

My wife's 2015 Fabia with Bolero does this with a USB stick too - I agree very annoying and the technology may well be worse in future and the present old recordings unplayable as the format (or wotever's the correct term) has changed yet again. I'm not sure if albums are still in alphabetical order when using the SD card slot in the glovebox as I just listen to the DAB radio anyway

Hi, welcome. Did you not get any warnings such as below? (all inserts from car's Owner's Manual) - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models What? Which/who is wrong? If required buy a new 12v battery and have it fitted and 'coded' in then buy a 12V car battery charger maintainer and use it to recharge the 12v battery if/when required and as preventative measure to stop it getting (too) low, read and follow the instructions in your Owner's Manual and instructions on the charger maintainer. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

I think we covered tuning inside out last time but just to remind you for brakes you need to have covered good quality suitable tyres. I think we also covered strip out the interior and soundproofing if you want more noise inside. Bad or really excessive tuning you could get a few breaks. 😁 I forget, have you looked at or posted in the 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forum for info and idea? - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades/ Are you still on sky-high monthly insurance (and interest) payments? Unfortunately you are right YOLO, later you both regret the things you done and the things you didn't do, but only you can live your life and it helps to have some good times. ETA: you've put CE again, that confused me again. 😄

Depends when the measurement was taken but 12.57 at the posts a number of hours after charging sounds very good. The rest, not so good. As the garage will have a scan tool plugged in they can check the battery 'coding' too. Below from my wife's car gives you an idea of battery 'coding'. All that matters is: a) the Ah is correct (or perhaps near enough) - 59 and 60 below, b) the serial number changes if you are recording a new battery - from 1111111111 to 1111111112 below, c) important - the battery type is correct, EFB or AGM (called "fleece" by VW) - from EFB to "Fleece" (AGM) below. The manufacturer of the battery is of no importance now, it was for VW's records.

I personally recommend regularly using, how regular is up to the individual, something like Shell V-Power diesel or petrol, but particularly diesel, for the added cleaning packages in them to help and bit with cleaning and as a bit of preventative measure. And/or two tankfuls before and during a service and/or MoT, and a tankful after, so three tankfuls in all. ETA: I saw the good results of using Shell V-power Diesel with my wife's previous car in my rear view mirror, light grey cloud of smoke off roundabout and booting it a bit as apposed to dense black cloud doing exactly the same with the standard fuel. Easy, clean hands work, which is the only way I like to do any work on a car if I can. Car work is usually, filthy, grubby, unrewarding work to me, a necessary chore. New(er) neighbours somehow often had the idea that I liked doing stuff on our cars, they soon learnt differently. 🙃

Hi Rob, no problem. As Warrior193 has mentioned, if the battery is the same type (EFB) and about the same Ah and previous battery was 'coded' correctly then hopefully the new battery is fine, do bear in mind for the future even if the battery is new/newish it's still just a store so can be depleted but if not flogged to death should more easily fully recover with charging. As long as the VWSkoda updates aren't like some from Microsoft hopefully you're alright with that. The strong money is on wheel sensor and with all the VW computer programs being so complex and intertwined (and far too intrusive for me) a small fault in one area can affect a load more, apart from perhaps the start/stop I can see all being connected - be interesting to get it confirmed though.

Sorry, I should 've went to SpecSavers, twice I read that as 109000. Doh! Great point, I never thought of that for one.

As put already VW make things very confusing, if you go to the Dealerships for the Oil & Inspection Service that will give you the service plus they will look for any other chargeable work they can find (required or possibly not, required soon or perhaps in the more distant future) so that covers anything anyway, they do "free health checks" whenever they can whenever the car is in there for whatever reason anyway - and these "free health checks" look for any other chargeable work they can find (required or possibly not, required soon or perhaps in the more distant future) so that covers anything anyway, Most think an engine oil change is a (whole) car service, including those at lease companies. Yes at 109k-miles it might need some stuff doing. 😁

If it is 0W-20 then VW's trying to get another nth degree of (pretend) mpg. VW engines are more on the badger's arse end of refinement, a new Toyota might use 0w-8 (don't try that in your VW but you'd probably see even better mpg on the car's computer figures). All databases and sources of information have errors and omissions including those from the manufacturers and off the internet, do check and cross reference any information you get with if possible two other reliable sources of information. Database errors and omissions are often copied from one place to others and further errors and omissions can be added. If I was more concerned about mpg than how long the engine lasts as I wasn't keeping the car for however long it might be capable of lasting (engine/car) then I might use 0w-20 and if I was really concerned about mpg and having the engine last a bit long I might use a very good 0w-20 (probably not the Castrol, though many would disagree). If I was more concerned about the engine lasting a bit longer and not so concerned was the nth degree of mpg figures (real or not) I'd use a very good quality 0w-30 or a very good quality 5w-30 possibly even the Castrol. I personally (others will disagree) don't worry too much about the VW ever changing oil number like 5-wotever approval but there will be loads of oils meeting the approval or VW number anyway if you're worried about such things or a VW fan then just make sure the oil meets VW's (ever changing) (current) approval. It's your car, your choice you can decide, there's lots of oils available, if the 0w-20 is correct and you want the full loyalty stamps for a 0w-20 get the one with the car group in the name - Castrol EDGE Professional LL IV FE 0w-20 (VAG) Fully Synthetic Engine Oil. VW = Very Wirr (German for confused) 😁

The pip on it must be to do with location and/or orientation, I've no idea how the wire connectors hang, if the form a drip loop or that's not required. Later I'll se if I can test if this one is working just out of curiosity.

Totally agree about finite life of additives in coolant and oil - but I've not seen anything from VW saying Fabia Mk3 change of coolant at 5 years - that's not to say there might not be any just that I haven't seen them, I have seen the "for life" bit though for the coolant (and oils in other vehicles and circumstances) but that's not to say I believe it. I think I changed the coolant in my wife's 2015 Fabia at 5, 6 or 7 years but can't remember, I must have been in a rare good mood with the car when I eventually done it, I think I had the coolant sitting around for about a year from buying it.

https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

They say it's "lifetime" what that means is up to you, who or what's lifetime you can decide. The premixed G12evo 5 litre plastic refill can has on it "Can be used up to five years from production date in the closed, original container. See below" then the date of course. This doesn't mean it only has a 5 year use life but just stated storage and use restrictions (which many would argue are unnecessary I would imagine from my previous experience of such things). The numbering system doesn't look logical but I can imagine reasons to it, G11, G12, G12+, G12++, G13 and then . . . G12evo. Personally I don't regard the German systems and engineering quality in such elated regard as many here and particularly dislike their engine oil numbers (502, 504, etc.) but if you bought the car then you have literally bought into their systems to a great extent already. I've already changed the coolant in my wife's 2015 Fabia, a while back but that's just me. This is one step away from being as straightforward as many think it is to fully change the coolant but I won't go into that as my troll (gawd bless his cotton socks) will probably post to say I'm talking rubbish again so I leave it you and others to do the research about this and decide for yourself (same for car batteries in modern cars, particularly with stop/start). I will suggest, just a suggestion, no more than that, that you change the coolant at 10 years and hope you are shot of the car before then - but you and others may totally disagree with me about both (and anything I've put above). 🙂

Well this is how things go when you have a car made for LHD sold to places that need RHD, the design effort to keep things cheap can often over complicate things. I don't know about the translation to English of the Owner's Manuals but there are as in all sources of information errors and omissions and whilst I always criticize VW where deserved I will say the English Skoda Owner's Manuals do seem a lot better than the couple of Ren-No! Nissan ones I've tried to wade through. As you've shown some effort at least has been made to improve the latter versions for the Fabia Mk4. Pity perhaps that Skoda UK couldn't put in more effort to get things better for the cars that come to the UK. On line manuals of course could be improved and improvements shown but that does require the effort and will to do it and I'm sure the cost would eat into what could otherwise be available to company directors' expenses and perks. 😄

@rum4mo I couldn't get a decent photo of the part as the paint overspray was so thick and shiny the camera flash bounced back regarless of angle. THe overspray was also over all by one line of numbers. I think I could maybe (maybe not) make out Valeo and perhaps made in Germany but I'm not sure about either. Whatever the origin of the part it appears it make locate in a circular holding ring to/on(?) the bumper(?). This looks the same or similar to the one found on the back seat and is painted the same colour as my wife's car. The paint colour might be a coincidence and the part neither off or going on to my wife's car but it'd be a few coincidences.

I never put that, but of course there can be, have you never heard of EBA for a start, perhaps if you had raced the decent Lotus 7 copy instead of the popular one you might have been more open to progress, you think I'm stuck in the 1970s yet you don't seem to have got pasted the 1960s. 😆 That's in your imagination not mine - READ again, I never put that at all. There are so many computer systems and programs related to and involving the brakes I defy even those that (part) write the computer programs to list them all. Just because your outlook on life is through an excrement orifice doesn't mean you also have to talk out of it. I gave up on bending over backwards to pacify you a good while back and later trying to give you answers and references, as I've put repeatedly before, read what I've actually put rather than just skim reading assumptions and do your own research rather than just trolling me as you are wasting your time trying to bully me into submission. If you can't play nice with me please don't bother to play at all. I've suggested an open form of direct communication to get everything off your chest but you prefer repeated sessions of playing silly buggers which is boring for me and others. I can not help you ,and again I put, I no longer want or care to.

Yes - YOU. Once again you show your total lack of understanding, the matter isn't all to do with the simple maths you spout. Lots of owners have issues with battery state of charge and health, it's proven with statics, real world breakdown call outs, the issues and resolve on threads on this site and others and the situation has and will increase with newer cars, when you are driving newer car let me know. Not everyone is you , thank gawd, not everyone does as you do, thank gawd, not everyone has your experience and knowledge (and pig-headiness, thank gawd). Try actually reading and understanding what I put. As I've put many times now I will continue to put this, either Report me, become a Moderator and restrict me, or buy the site or keep on moaning about it and bore us all with it. BTW you've missed a few long, low, slow (wotever the wording is), I thought you were keeping a careful eye on me. I'm still waiting for your site email to me. Peace and love.

Never sure of anything, the car was bought s/h from a Dealership so anything could have happened, There were paint runs on the underside of the rear bumper suggesting after it left the factory work had been done there. I must admit I totally forgot what I'd normally say (is it a factory original part). There appears to be numbers on it but the overspray makes it very difficult to see with my eyes even standing outside in daylight with a X3 magnifier so later I'll try to take a photo of it. I only assume it's a genuine VWSkoda factory fitted part. The pressing into mating clips makes much more sense, it was the square dot on the bar that made me think it might be a twist (same as the incandescent DLR bulb holder), I've edited my previous post. I didn't have to do the work of removing them, thank gawd, so I don't really know and obviously if you were only removing the fantastic-plastic bumper you'd only disconnect them at the wire connector end (which would be a right PITA, at least, for me). The sensor was working so didn't need replacing but the repair place obviously wanted to, pity I didn't crack the (more cheaply made than a couple of years before) Deppo aftermarket rear light cluster lenses and have them fit a genuine VWSkoda replacement by my wife would have sleepless nights at the mere thought of such stuff and the insurance repair adds hundreds to this years insurance cost let alone future years even with protected NCB, but I'm not moaning as we've written a car off a piece over the 90 years of driving.

I thought you had succeeded by your previous post. Did you try removing before fully lowering (as in your changing cabin filter)? These thing do tend to be awkward rather than difficult, I absolutely struggle getting the small plastic wire connectors apart yet others seem to do it so easily, practice and/or confidence I expect. On my neighbour's 2005 Kia Picanto last time I changed the cabin filter I struggled to get the bits of rubber type plastic back in that stop the glovebox fully opening yet the two times before I managed quite easily, that's how these types of jobs go sometimes a few seconds or minutes other times lots of swearing and mug of tea break required.

Can't get engine to turn over or can't get engine to start?