Former

Loz, I'm giving a rare disagreement with a small bit of something @Carlston has put. Just a warning, different insurance companies have different approaches and acceptance on different polices and at different times, perhaps even who you get answering your enquiry. Check and whatever reply is given get it recorded and get it in writing preferably paper and ink (or ask them for the audio of your call, AFAIK they can't refuse but will probably mess up the copy of any recording, that's if they know how to get it). Make no assumptions (but I'd not think (generally) going to appropriate 16" wheels and tyres to the model will cause an issue but you never know for sure at anytime). Generally insurance companies and providers are very good but can be a right PITA to deal with (if you can now directly) when things go wrong and particularly wrong by them. I think 16" wheels and tyres are a much better idea (and look) than 18" or even 17", 19" is well beyond for me but each to their own.

I was going to look at the Owner's Manual for anything about the cruise control but if it's working now. If both the cruise control and the start/stop are working again (they might be related, my wife's Fabia doesn't have it so I don't know how it relates to battery, start/stop if at all) and you know the battery was in good state of charge and health then did you also check that the battery post connections and main earths are all clean at (inside) connections and secure, also start/stop connector on negative clamp. As suggested connections and wires could be checked, disconnecting and if required cleaning the connector, sometimes a spray of electric contact cleaner can be enough to clean things (or even just the disconnecting and reconnecting) and you can look at the wires for any scuffing or frailty. Once had the embarrassment of a mate having to call out the services as his new model at the time 18-month old V8 Land Rover Discovery wouldn't start, the" very nice man" just took the battery post clamps off and there was a tiny spec of crud that needed cleaning off and then the car fired up like a good 'un. Perhaps even disconnecting and reconnecting the battery might have been enough if the electric issues have now gone but don't bank on it straight away. Forgot to put, generally Dealers wont diagnosis error codes that have been cleared and don't show up on their scanners, the first thing is (or should be) to check that the reported issues exists, no codes, and like my wife, they won't believe what they don't see wit their own eyes. See how your car goes over the next couple of reasonable journeys and let us know. If it's not against your nature or upbringing try a couple of tankfuls of V-Power, the economy needs the revenues.

That is my point - if the Mannol Defender 10w40 semi synthetic engine oil was not the original factory fill and service engine oil for the (replacement) 1998 VW Polo 6N1 1.6 AEE engine then it is probably an improved engine oil that you were happy to change to and are happy to continue using. So you may have also been happy to try an improved oil in the gearbox - the fact that you, and others, are not happy to do this is fine, I just thought you might as I thought you had with the engine oil. Again up to you, just a suggestion from me to be ignored or taken up as you please - I can't remember seeing before that you have 1.6 AEE engine fitted (or what model or year your Felicia is) so if you wanted to you could add more details to your nameplate that appears to the left side of your posts (well it does for my device) as for example only mine gives more details.

@harry vederci sorry, you're ahead of many with the battery, it's state of charge and charging the battery with a charger, and not thinking a 20-mile journey is a long run. As has been put a generic code reader might not be too accurate but if the error codes have gone it done it's job if not too accurately. Also as put always bear in mind there can be more than one issue and/or cause(s) of issues(s). Error codes should only be taken as possible pointers in the diagnostics process, a good scan might be pointing at the cause or just blaming the messenger. A 120 miles run is a good run but not always a good blow -out (or through) run but you'd know what it was like, I've done choking runs and smooth flowing empty roads runs in Scotland and England. My wife had a 2008 GM diesel before the Fabia and the few times I drove it and very few times filled it with fuel I put V-Power diesel in and could see the evidence of the different in the rear view mirrors, I know others don't accept this for various reasons, often monetary as with my wife. Until you have a new filter to compare with it can be difficult to see how dirty an existing air filter can be, I'd also wipe out the inside of the filter box and trunking as much as sensible and possible. If any codes return as has already been put it could be wiring or connections, a higher level scan tool make give you more information about this but sometimes just using your own personal diagnostic tools of your human senses and mind can do more and better so always worth a look-see, especially whilst doing things like changing the air filter, look before and after doing the job. What year is your car, perhaps there might be something about why the the cruise control function can't be set at the moment.

Just using a smart charger overnight might not have been enough to fully recharge a battery that might have been low for a few weeks, did the charger show that the battery was full, if not even a 50 mile drive including 16 miles of motorway may not be enough to fully recharge the battery. Put the smart battery charger on for as long as possible or until it shows full. You may also need to keep an eye on the battery and give preventative rechargers with the smart charger before any warning lights or messages come on, or possibly need to replace the battery at some point sooner than expected. A 50 mile drive including 16 miles of motorway at 60-70mph may not be enough to fully clear the car out, especially if you were in top gear at that time and just cruising, consult your Owner's Manual to see if it gives any suggestions or go on the same drive but have the engine revs up a bit by using lower gear(s), you're looking to get the exhaust temperature up for long enough, and more air in, through and out of the engine. Not sure about the cruise control but I'd fully charge the battery, go on the blow-through, heat up run, then check for error codes and decide from there if I thought it was worth going to the Dealership. Personally if I had a diesel I'd check, change/clean as require, the engine air filter more often than the service schedule has it and run with something like V-Power diesel at least every fourth or more tankful.

382 in old money, contact the people in link below if you want to be sure but the link is to their canbus P21W (382) offering, I found them very good when buying LED bulbs for my "classic" (over-priced, over-valued old) car ("classics" causing the LEDs to be OK for MoTs headlights) but I've not used any LEDs on modern cars. Bear in mind VW (and other German marques) were obsessed with over-complex computer systems (helps with any hidden cheating I suppose) and I've found just using the standard (presumably factory) incandescent bulbs on my wife's 2015 Fabia that the computer programs can possibly get their knickers in a twist or be over, or under sensitive. Once it claimed a fault with a rear brake light that I was unable to prove and another time I noticed one of the DRL incandescent bulbs was darker than the other a week before the warning system threw up a display. ETA: I've just noticed one of the two 5 star reviews is from a Skoda Superb owner - "These work perfectly for my Skoda, the DRL lights now colour match the o/e HID headlamps, looking much better, and no error codes. (Previous ebay COB lights were useless, failing in a week, and heat damaging the sockets)". https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/strong-canbus-drl-daylight-running-light-white-led-1156-p21w-382

"Advance warning" of the "distance warning (dangerous distance)" - warning that you're too close to the car in front came on yesterday, the audio bit is more of a higher pitched, whistle type of bleeping(?). I admonished the driver and informed her VW had notified Interpol, it'll be another offence to be taken into consideration.

@GordoGT what about going into your local Dealership and asking for a detailed breakdown of every service and if not a Complete Record, if the two aren't the same thing. As the current owner, take in your V5C ("logbook" registration, keepers paper) for relevant VIN and perhaps proof you're the "keeper" of the car and I'd have thought they'd be happy to use up a couple of bits of paper and ink in the hope of getting you as a service customer at least. The VWSkoda digital service record seems a ridiculously run system to me, good luck, let us know how you get on.

During that time it might have helped to fully recharge the battery with an appropriate battery charger and maintainer but it is not too late, now fully recharge the battery with an appropriate battery charger and maintainer, if you do not have the time to fully recharge in one go then fully recharge in more than one go. Then after the battery is fully recharged clear all error codes and drive the car and see what returns. Fully recharge the battery, clear all error codes and drive the car first, then if required panic after that. Water leak will obviously need sorting no matter what anyway.

That is a LOT more detailed than the Complete Record (no Report) paper printed (hard) copy my wife is given. As, until August last year, for the previous 30+ years I've been using "classic" (over-priced and over-valued old) cars as dallies I'm used to much more detailed servicing and maintenance bills and records from those doing the work and what I compile so the digital system was a very unwelcome surprise on my wife's car. (BTW apparently other marques than VW did give a physical service book). I ask my wife to get a refreshed Complete Record every time the car has work done but often it's only the Individual record I get a paper print out of. Attached images as examples. -

Explains why I couldn't find it over 238 pages, VW do seem a little 'shy' about giving some information a process of "constant improvements" I expect. 😁 I'll edit my previous post.

After seeing others have used it I used this eBay seller, very fast response. - VIN decoder that will show factory options Audi VW Seat Skoda - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224631127243 - ETA: I was wrong, no good locking at this for DMF, thanks varooom.

Yes that is fair enough, so I take it Mannol Defender 10w40 semi-synthetic was the factory fill and/or service change oil in 1996/7 and is not a later improved choice. As I have put many times, a good oil is a good oil no matter what it is called and how it compares. Everyone should now be happy and Felicia gearbox oil change interval has been established again.

On my wife's 2015 Fabia the one for where you get too close to the car in front gives a symbol on the maxidot bit between revs counter and speedo and IIRC there's a bong sort of sound same as the 'frost' warning . Listening to the sound on your vid again it sounds more like a clock, timer alarm, I can't think of hearing a sound like that on the Fabia, though your model might have different sounds. I could well be wrong about the sounds on the Fabia. Have you left any other devices in a door pocket or similar and forgot they're there. Thanks, thinking of what "features" might be standard to the model is it (and I've no idea of model levels) an S, SE, SEL, L, L&K, GL, GLX, Ghia, E, HL, GLS, . . . Is the going passed the speedo indicated 70 mph just coincidence or always at that speed or at other speeds or circumstances. What is the NE and upward arrow about, anything tied into a SatNav type device that reminds you of the road speed limit you're on? ETA: traffic sign recognition(?), is that a working thing in UK(?), lane assist, hands off steering wheel, take a break, dental appointment due, I can't remember driving a vehicle newer than 2015 so I've no idea what might be on a 2017 let alone 2022/3.

Have a look at your Owner's Manual to see what other settings it might be. Are you sure it's from the car, you appear to have some cable is that going to some device that might not like you going over 70 mph (different speed reading to speedo) a SatNav, speed watcher, related to temperate perhaps(?). Is there any other system on the car that gives that bleeping. What model and year of Octavia Mk3 do you have?

Have a look in your Owner's Manual you might have a warning light for worn brakes. Obviously hearing and describing noises is different for different people but the old systems at least were I thought (but I've never experienced) a sort of definite screech. (ETA: by Gaz's post, perhaps they're more subtle now) Not saying in this case but brakes can sometimes get noisy through wear or change of pads and remain so for a while and/or suddenly the noise goes away or doesn't with bad or mismatched pads/disks or other reasons.

That could be the sound, or one of a contributing sounds. Might be the photos but the pads look quite a way off the discs for the rears, perhaps slider pins or the calipers, I don't know if or how the handbrake is to the rear brakes. Has the brake fluid ever been changed. This will be picked up on any visual inspection "free health check" tomorrow so you can leave diagnosis until then, tell them about the noise in case it's also something else as well as or instead of this.

@rcd I think whilst you never take any risks with brakes - brakes are the number one priority (brakes includes tyres) - the situation might not be as bad as some think - but then again it might be, very difficult to tell from a brief text description. Lots of detailed, well taken high definition photos and a video with audio for the noise might tell more, or might not. My wife's 2015 Fabia has a slight scraping of pads on discs that I sometimes hear when I'm not being annoyed by all the other strange noises from the engine bay as the computers seem to be doing as they please. When I changed the front pads and discs I hoped that'd be the end of it but no it returned. Perhaps it's the slide pins I didn't replace or something else (not backplates). Another thought is perhaps there's some sand/stone type grit caught somewhere and perhaps a sensible high pressure rinse might flush it out, care with the use of wet brakes of course. (ETA: Gaz beat me to it) Wheel bearings are usually more a constant rumble, hoarsey-roar type sound, sad to think an eight year old car would need them replacing but apparently they can do, like the dampers, springs, engine bits and brakes, so much for 'German engineering'. It may be that you'd want to change the discs as well as the pads, depends on their condition of course. (ETA: as you've noticed) Never put too much faith in an MoT pass (nice though they are to have) do bear in mind an MoT is just a statutory test for the car to meet a minimum standard, taken at one point in time to one trained person's point of view, it doesn't mean the car is as good as it could or should be and the car could potentially fail the same test the next day or even from driving away. I'm sure tomorrow's service with highlight any seen issues. 😄 Good luck.

I'll wait for someone like toot to come along but I thought these modern spec engines wanted the 0w20 oil, though I'm not sure about any car newer than 2015 (1974 really). I saw in USA 0W16 GSF(?) 6(?) requirements for some engines and IIRC(?) earlier engines running better on the thinner oils, better against oil dilution that some were suffering from, that's if IIRC (always suspect).

Again you can look up alternatives, going cheap is usually not a good idea but get good quality at lower prices usually is. I would go for the expensive long last plugs if changing them is a PITA (what isn't on a modern car), I like to go for NGK as a spark plug brand, again care is needed with their database and I'd check the threads search faculty for here (sometimes easier via external search engine) and as you have ask for advice from here (from others). I was going to change the plugs on my wife's Fabia this spring (and air filter) but when I investigated it I need to buy a coil puller tool, appropriate plug socket, a more accurate lower torque wrench (that went up £50 in price) and then even the four standard NGK plugs would all add up to more than the Dealership cost to do the work. Yes I've got the tools for next time or other work but I don't want to do any other work and I hope the car is gone by the time it needs plugs again. @numskulllast year I got four NGK plugs for my car for £10 and a few years before that I tried some £1 a piece NGK plugs, showed fine on the rollers, a mate never cleans the plugs on his but replaces them every year as part of the service, cars from the 60s and 70s were so much simpler. Oh the joys of 21st century "German engineering". 😄

Cross check the service fill capacity, which can depend on method and thoroughness, but if it's 5.7 litre then obviously you're going to need more than a 5 litre bottle. Better to initially underfill and then do top ups to correct level before using the car and check again after first use, usual engine oil and filter change checks. If you can remember to look for the oil well in advance of need you can sometimes get good prices on the oil as sellers clear stocks for various reasons. I've used all sorts of different sellers over the years (for Millers for last x-years) and as an example got the Millers gearbox oil for my wife's Fabia at half the usual price from Demon Tweaks, who are often very expensive with the items they stock, no explanation so whether it was a pricing / catalogue error I don't know but it wasn't old stock at all.

You should also cross reference any info you get with a couple of other reliable sources (so not me or general pub-internet). See what Opie Oils brings up from your car reg as the model (VIN, engine). - https://www.opieoils.co.uk/

See if putting in your exact model makes any difference. (ETA: is your engine a DKZA) In my experience most databases have errors and omissions and companies compile, combine and buy in databases with errors and omissions, the likes of eBay sellers just copy databases so the same e&o proliferate. Some (many?) can start with the car and part manufacturers - obviously I'd never suggest this with VW !! 🙃 Millers have on their "Which Oil? – Oil Checker" the following. - "Although every care is taken to ensure accuracy and completeness in compiling these data, no liability, other than that which may not be excluded by law, can be accepted for damage or loss caused by any errors or omissions in the information given." It'd help with earlier models if VW specified a multigrade weight as well as their spec number, they seem to change their minds about things for their engines and gearboxes with time and progress(?) (or to try to sort things perhaps).

I don't know if that's the correct oil or not for your model as there's not enough info about which actual model yours is but Millers are good oils and you can contact them and actually talk to their people on the phone for information. Or use their "Which Oil? – Oil Checker" (whilst confirming info). - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/which-oil/ Plus for those that might care about such things (or even object) it's a UK oil blender company, HQ at Brighouse, West Yorkshire and at Cumbernauld for Scotland. - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/

Great news and great write-up, well done. 👍 Just a note, for UK at least it's usually easier to go with the EN / SAE number, 680A on your previous EFB battery (780A on your new battery). I've also seen where some have put that factory AGM battery installs get additional insulation on engine bay installations, to the battery tray I think but don't know. I've not bothered about this with my wife's 90hp 1.2 but I might with have with a VRS type model. Some will say that's placebo but the battery state of charge can effect the computers and the computers control the car, you now realise how very important it is to the car not to have the car battery in a low or very low state of charge. Even though you have an AGM battery now it is still just a storage device so if you want the longest life out of it and least hassle from the computers and are going to have a similar car use as previously you'll want an appropriate battery charger and maintainer (which may or may not be your present trickle charge depending on its use) and use it when required in a preventative manner. I put a Bosch battery on my wife's car but apparently they're Vatra with a different label, which is good. 🙂