Former

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. This concept can be very hard for some to accept. Do yourself a favour, just in case, charge the battery FULLY with an appropriate battery charger and maintainer, often just just driving the car to charge it is nowhere near enough. A battery in a good state of charge will help with diagnosis whereas a battery in low state of charge can hinder and even prevent diagnosis. As the battery gets less demand on it and picks up a little some things caused by the previously too low state of charge can go away, they can return when the battery gets too low for them again. If the battery is too low in state of charge, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough, then the computer programs can throw up all sorts of unexpected issues and getting the battery back to a better state of charge will take those issues away. Obviously if there is any sort of problem with the car or use of the car then the same issues, and perhaps more, will return when the battery's state of charge gets too low again. For the battery drain, I often think of the users (people) before the consumers (electric items on the car), cos I'm old and know how wasteful some are with electric, even on a car, with "well that doesn't use a lot does it", put a coin slot meter on and they'd often soon find out. :grumpyoldgit:

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hopefully you shouldn't need to top up the battery every weekend but it does depend on your driving and battery electric consumption and how much the battery has already had the a*rse kicked out of it. I've put a hyperlink to one of his videos before, he's very good considering he's from USA which often seems to be on a different planet to the rest of us on planet Earth but ignore the Optima battery and bear in mind if you change to an AGM battery VW call it "Fleece" for 'coding'. With my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 the only thing that needed resetting/synchronising after battery disconnect was the time of day clock but I've no idea about later cars. I've no idea about OBDEleven or VCDS but not being into maths or computer programing I find what I've seen of the VCDS to be very "legacy" historic type of ugly system presentation but I don't know it might be much better for overall more in depth use and more accurate in programing than others but just for telling the VW computers you've changed the battery so as not to upset them or need to give a sacrificial offering I don't know. The German marques particularly seem to love to make things very awkward so you are under their command, which other systems are allowed to carry out the menial task of battery replacement 'coding' I've not investigated but other systems can do it. I've not - now be sitting down for this and have a hanky to dab your eyes - got a "smart" phone or devices (I know I'm a caveman, but the mobile phones of the 1980s ****ed me off enough with their lack of reception that we're been back to for a while now) so I've no idea of the details but I've seen others mention that VCDS Lite(?) does a lot and you can have it on a "smart" (awwl, the irony) phone for reasonable cost. You'd get better information and a much less biased view than mine from going to, and perhaps posting in, the following. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ I usually agree with varooom but not about getting a jump pack, to me that's like as some say "preparing to failing", coming from the old farts with old over-priced cars called "classic" that some have a car full of 'just-in-case' spare parts I'm all for prevention over cure, don't let your battery get that bad, charge or change before then. See how you feel after the next proper drive or two. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thanks for your reply, sorry I didn't make myself clear as usual, I wasn't thinking of the brand but if the number of characters, 5 instead of 3, made any odds to the adaption(?)/program/field(?) space(?) and it working correctly after? I've not seen anything about computer programming since a bit of Babbage history in the 1980s - all of which I've forgot and some of which wouldn't be too relevant now.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Well we all make mistakes in reading and writing, even the best of you. 😊 I think I'll bow to your superiority, that should please you, your need to be right is greater than mine on this occasion but who knows in the future. May your grease pot go with you. 😁

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thanks for reporting back. All seems a bit odd but nothing you can sort now and if it's working with such an easy 'repair' that at least is good.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @varooom do you think 'BOSCH' instead of something like JCB would prevent the computer program from knowing a new battery of different type has been fitted?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. ETA: This was all one-finger typed before varooom posted. As you've found as with other models the Owner's Manual hasn't been clear about the fuse locations and with the possibility of more than one fuse and/or location for the particular system but don't think, but don't know, that there's more than one fuse for the alarm (horn). ETA: This was one-finger typed before varooom posted. Below is when a local site member helped me by 'coding' the battery on my wife's car with OBDEleven, the start of my fuller understanding of the 'joys' of VW's computer programing. So far there doesn't seem to be any effects of the word 'BOSCH' instead of the VW three letter code for the battery manufacturer but who knows if it's VW programing requirements or VW statistics requirement.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If there's no disadvantage then why bother messing about with messy grease, if anyone wants to then fine, whatever floats yer boat.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Best I say I was thinking more of good form and practice. Do see some murder-tight and pinched posts but it's no big thing, anyone who wants to can tighten as much as they want. I prefer things are not overtight to me as I have weak wrists. ETA: Thinking about it I'll remove it, without giving more details, if and buts it's all like going into don't swallowing the socket or spanner.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You seem to dislike the VW computer programs even more than me, that's going some. I'm not a VW fan or believed in German engineer quality on cars being that great this century. My stock answer to just about anything on the car is to keep the battery in a good state of charge because if it gets too low even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough you can still get lots of unexpected issues. Some issues with warning lights and messages but some issues perhaps before these warnings. This because the VW computers and their programs don't like low battery charge. You are not just dealing with HAL900 but a group of them. Skoda, SEAT, VW, Audi, are all VW/VAG with lots of the same sort of stuff and parts so lots of similarities to them so the garage should have some idea of what they're doing. Normally it's the driver that lets the battery get in a state of low charge with use, abuse, neglect and mistake(s) - but it can be the car's charging system or eclectics or computer programs perhaps. Hopefully now you see that is a mistake. This will probably be part of your "battery" problem. Yeap the computer program parameter is too wide so don't rely on it and carry on looking after the car. Part of looking after the car is to read and refer to the Owner's Manual, if you do so you will know more about your car than many long term owners - and sorry to say - but - I am going to anyway prevented many of the issues you've had, you probably know RtFM. Get an appropriate battery charger and FULLY recharge the battery ASAP as this could end a lot of your issues - until you let the battery run down too low again which you wont of course now you know. 😉 Charge the battery FULLY an appropriate battery charger, check the Tudor EFB TL600 has been 'coded' in as a new battery to the car's computer program correctly. And RtFM. 😊 - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Just in case you could check for any Recalls as it not all your fault (that 'P' position thing wouldn't be you). -https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions (Edited as I put same link twice, now corrected) Let us know how you get on.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You probably won't believe this but I didn't see your post until after I had posted, I was relying to Fab19's post. To clarify there's no need to grease the battery posts (to clamp connections, inside of the clamps), if you want to fine but there's no need, some apply grease to the outside of the combined connection of clamp to post, can get debris to it though. I used to apply to battery posts until I read it wasn't required, from a battery supplier or manufacturer I forget which now, and since then I've not bothered and I not had lots of electrolytic corrosion or noticed any.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. It's as varooom has put. As it's not working as it should anyway for no cost and fast to do what about pulling the fuse(s) for the alarm system to see if that makes any odds to your drain if you still have one. Was the previous battery an EFB and the same Ah as the present Varta and have you checked the 'coding' to see all is correct, type, Ah, serial number changed from previous battery (varooom will have the link for why)?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Credit to you for actions with the tyre on a performance vehicle and taking into account tread wear to the set. If you contact a proper tyre place that sells Pirelli they should be able to arrange this through their supplier or Pirelli direct. Surely the place that sold you your new tyre should be able to sort this(?). What about contacting Pirelli again and see what they can suggest. If the tyre is defective from production then it could well be worth your while. I know you've got a VRS but to me a 225/35 R19 is a bloody silly fashion size and the 18" size just as silly but I doubt you could go to more sensible sizes. I seen a few VRS owners of different model put that they have preferred (relatively) smaller wheels in real world use.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. There's no need to grease the battery terminal posts but do check the battery terminal posts and the, inside particularly, of the battery post clamps are clean and that they're secure. You could if you want to protect the outside of the battery clamps and exposed top of battery posts. The earth connection at the wing, you could check it is secure or disconnect it to check it's clean and clean as required, protect as wanted.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you get it back and the power steering light remains off provided it illuminates at turning ignition on to show the warning system is working and the steering operates and feels fine then the power steering is operating. From the 05.11 Owner's Manual.- Even though you have a new battery if the car has electrical problems especially with charging and you have been using the car then ask the garage to test the battery and make sure it's still in a good state of charge, as above if the battery is too low you will have problems with the power steering and other issues, possibly before you get any warning lights (as I probably put before).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I note from the Manual for the charger that it is designed for up to 60Ah, your battery is rated at 69Ah so using the formula in the manual if the battery is fully discharged it will take 34.5 hours (at 2-amps) to get it to 80% charge (about 12.4-12.5v). In maintenance mode at a maximum of 1-amp the time doubles. These times will be increased if the battery is connected to the car and has a constant drain on it. The charger does not seem to have a recondition mode so once you have the battery as fully charged as you can from the charger it would possibly help to use the car to cycle the battery's discharge and charge, from the alternator, as the battery is designed for. Use the least consumers and battery consumption as you can until you put the battery on the charger again, to fully recharge the battery again to hopefully have regained as much of the battery capacity as you can. If required you could repeat use of the battery on the car and then another full recharge using the battery charger. The maintenance mode is really for when the car is not used for long periods, as noted in the car's Owner's Manual but the battery is designed for cycling so should have some discharge. Winter mode is for when the ambient temperature is below (+)5c, if the temperature was above 5c last time of charging I would not worry about it given the state of your battery. Manual.pdf My terminology will not be correct - but - the idea is just to fully deplete the electrics so that you get a reset of the computers, to have a clean start when you reconnect the charged battery, it might not do much, or nothing, but as I put before when the battery gets in a low state of charge it can cause all sorts of unexpected computer or program issues so best to have them cleared if possible and speed up getting back to normal operation. Thanks. Now if you add that to the information with your site name it will show at each post you make (when viewed on an appropriate device(?)) as example. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Good for reading the Owner's Manual but best done when you first get the car or better still before buying the car as they're available on line. I'm not immune I sometimes forget and think I know and then have to go back and refer to it when I find I don't fully know or have forgotten something. The VW system is very complex, over complex but I won't rant on about the falseness of it all, see here for 2009 thinking. - https://procarmanuals.com/self-study-program-426-start-stop-system-2009-design-function/ See my previous post.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Nirrain, it'd help if you added your car details and if you want location to the wotits that are at the left side of the posts. 2018 Octavia Mk3 - what engine, gearbox, trim level. Also if you could put a link up to the 2-amp charger or its make and model. You are doing the right thing by having a low amperage but you're not applying it at the right time and possibly not correctly. I suggest for now you read the Owner's Manual about disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and possible resets on the car and you disconnect the battery, and leave it on charge again until full. For the sake of the little effort and time required whilst the battery is disconnected - [ETA: - carefully bridge/join the positive and negative battery leads post clamps together to complete a circuit ] - turn the ignition on, press and hold the brake pedal down so that if the battery was connected the brake lights would be on, turn the headlights on, after about 20 seconds, turn headlights and ignition off. This might reset some of the many computers that might have been upset or just a refresh of 'turning it off 'n' on agen'.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. As I often put here, just because the car starts and the lights seem bright enough it doesn't mean the battery has enough charge to keep the VW computer programs happy and they can throw up all sorts of unexpected issues even before giving warning warning lights and messages. Reading the Owner's Manual and referring to it when required will mean that you will know about your car more than many long term owners, in it is a section on the battery and checking it, personally I'd not put all my faith in the battery indicator but it's better than nothing and reading the section will tell you the procedure required to test it correctly. You were right the battery had been damaged but you might have been able to recover it for more life out of it with a suitable charger. This gives you some detail and some idea of some of what's available. - https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/advice/know-how/car-battery-conditioners-and-trickle-chargers-everything-you-need-to-know/ A general note just driving the vehicle is often not not enough to help with charging the battery and might even deplete it more. The 2-amp charger only taking a hour does tell you there's a problem. There are possibly ways around this depending on what charger this is and what else is available. See RAC link for 7.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Great, well done. For no good reason I later thought it might stretch to 24 hours, don't let it get that low again as that has put a bit of a dent in it that will stay but now you're aware of the situation so can keep on top of it more. Let us know how the car is after a couple of drives. Yeah I was giving the answer, as I often do, as a generality so that when you deal with another vehicle battery charging you don't only think of it in the term of this battery in this car. I'm so used to sealed batteries until I was reminded I forgot to check the electrolyte level on an old battery, one cell was 'dry' so I wasn't too surprised when it became my second failure to resuscitate. As you have a Yuasa battery if you want to here's their generally H&S. - https://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technical/health-safety/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Those really, the heat perhaps to the charger and battery, gassing from battery, sparks. Have a look at this guide, though there seems to be some debate about some pulsing. - https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/advice/know-how/car-battery-conditioners-and-trickle-chargers-everything-you-need-to-know/ As with lots of things - and I'm not referring to any safety matters now - there's a lot of information, advice, opinions and 'rules' some of which cannot be broken, others that might be able to be bent, some more than others. Any company offering public advise will obviously have to allow for all readers with what they put. Some will have a commercial concern to the subject so might have more of a slant to a certain direction. Is it done yet? 🤣

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. That might have been the reading after you'd selected the mode. Yes fair enough, a little extra to save hassle and waiting, £30 eBay, often a day or two for delivery but not promised or guaranteed, worth looking at when not so much of a distress purchase item. Listen if you've been sensible and I know of someone who used to do such more than once without incidence. Car wise, you did follow the 'Owner's Manual' and Ring 'User Manual' and connect the charger negative to the car's body negative point. I'm still hoping less than 28 hours for 'FUL' and for something perhaps after your first drive or two. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Not engine coolant temperature or heater matrix but if you mean heater fan blower speed varies then it could be your car battery is low in charge, this would also have some effect on your AC operation. If you mean the coolant temperature gauge needle get to 90 then drops that's a different matter. A good run out will help the car generally if/when the oil temp gets to 90c-95c and the coolant temp needle is steady on 90 and the car feels good then give the car a bit of a blow out, hold the gears and revs up get the air into the engine and out of the exhaust (along with the cobwebs) don't worry about mpg. Let us know how you get on regardless and any solution you find. Cheer.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. To me this sounds like something is wrong, as with the OP here and another thread. I'll give more details later if wanted but to me it sounds like the initial battery swap and or charging by car and/or battery charger. I've got to go now but if you want to leave more details.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi. welcome. Yeah it's like other "smart" devices they're not really that smart so sometimes you have to fool them into being smarter that's why diligent use of my old chargers often gets better results on batteries that are in not such a good state (of charge and health). It also depends on what the smart battery charger is designed to do. For readings different electronic devices will give you different readings and in different circumstances so always best to check them with another device. Sometimes though through use, abuse or neglect (or accident) the battery or one of it's cells can be had it or too far gone and so the battery wouldn't be reliable or last long with use in a car. Another reason not to fully trust the 'magic eye' or VW battery colours in the battery, my neighbour's battery that I've had to recharge for a few years now has the green 'magic eye', one time it disappeared after I fully recharged the battery to only return after I fully recharged it the next time. Because of the extreme hot weather we had last summer I expected to see even more reports than usual of battery "failures" this winter and this higher number will I think continue into spring and next summer because battery care got forgotten and steadily the complexity of the battery use has increased.