Former

But if you search more you might find that's a maximum (and/or VW recommendation) and some would have it done well before that mileage interval. I don't know about this box but if you have 4X4, and/or tow heavy caravan or boats, it might be more important for sooner or later. Karoq owners might know from experience. Treat VW's recommendations for their scant "services" and "maintenance schedules" the same way you should MoT passes, as minimum level rather than necessary or better level standards.

What is it you want to know, I don't know but others here might.

Do you mean flexible 'rubber' hoses or solid lines (not that you want to change the solid lines unless you really have to. Bear in mind if buying flexible 'rubber' then you want I to comply with the modern petrol you are using. Lots of Chinese 'rubber' hoses used to be absolute crap I don't know if that is still the case and even if you buy a brand labelled product it may still well be Chinese low quality - not all Chinese made stuff is bad some is very high quality.

Hi, welcome. You would probably find more reception and appreciation and more advice and information for this in the 'Fabia Projects' or 'Styling and Car Care' or perhaps 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forums. HTH. 'Fabia Projects' forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/205-fabia-projects/ Styling and Car Care' forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/8-styling-and-car-care/ 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' -https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades/

The EVAP canister can get saturated and need emptying out clean and revitalising. If the canister is saturated perhaps one easy way to tell is to remove a pipe to it and use a sophisticated diagnostics tool called your nose (unless you have no sense of smell). If new parts have been fitted like the fuel pump then that would be a good thing to check, the pump and fuel lines and fittings to and from it fitting. The gauge being odd could be for many reasons, again if a new part has been fitted then I suspect the new part, it's fittings or installation, was the part correctly matched, installed correctly , where electrical contacts and wires checked and cleaned or repaired as required, connections and wiring all clean, secure and where appropriated protected. Then it might be the new part and installation is fine and just showing up a fault in the gauge or its connections and wiring. Putting new onto old can throw up new or additional issue(s) or involve more compromises, often it should not but it does. Also follow the previous checks. Have a look at the petrol filler area and make sure it is all clean and any debris removed so any holes in the area are fully exposed and clean. Never overfill the fuel tank unless there is a problem with the fuel filling on the pick-up or petrol station fuel deliver pump you should always stop filling at the first click off of the petrol station petrol pump. Good quality (usually landscape and not portrait) photos posted by you can help as only you see your pick-up items not anyone else posting here or viewing the post that may be able to offer help , advice and information. There can be so many variation from factory standard over the decades that can alter the answers given.

Hi, welcome. Have you read and followed the information in your car's (paper printed) 'Owner's Manual'? Have you also got the amber triangle of doom showing? You could back probe the sensor and check it with a multimeter but I'd do all the easy stuff I can before crawling around under a car, how's the state of charge of you 12V battery, any other warning messages ands/or lights? If battery state of charge is good (and even if not) I always first consider the easiest, quickest, no cost, (no dirty hands) option I could think of, in this case raise the bonnet on it's stick for a few minutes then drop it shut from a reasonable height so the extremely dumb computer knows the bonnet has been lifted (oil added, even if it wasn't) and shut again to rest light, if oil was still too low (or computer thinks it is) the light will come back on after x-miles. Otherwise a VW appropriate scan tool with up to date program for your model and (part) year (or VIN) with car and scan tool battery(ies) in reasonable state of charge and see what it has on this (IIRC there's about 600(?)+ data points for the engine area). HTH.

And VWŠkoda UK no longer con their UK customers by having the unnecessary (dry) cam belt change interval at 5 years / 50k-miles. - CamBeltchangechange.pdf

Ultimate Speed I think is something we might see in Aldi or Lidl, their battery chargers have been fine. I would definitely check the pressure gauge against a known good gauge. Stuff I've seen from China for decades has some that is excellent, much is fine and a lot can be just a waste of time money and materials which sometimes you can tell immediately from removing the packaging, or after first or second use but if the item just about does the job and it's very occasional use then at the low price it can be worth the gamble and good value. The mechanical manual footpumps I've bought haven't lasted anywhere as long as they should be those inexpensive or higher priced, they're not long lasting like the stuff built 30,40, 50+ years ago, that's progress. 🙃

No you should keep the spare tyre, it's not adding much weight as VWs are lardy anyway. The electric pumps you get with the car are to me very annoying, weak and very noisy clatter. If you want a compressor type inflator, especially if you have the large wheels and tyres fitted to modern cars and they are flat, this has been recommended, VIAIR 84p Portable Air Compressor Kit.

I didn't see Shrek. 😁

So rare to get a nasty puncture, I didn't carry a spare wheel or jack in various cars for over 20 years instead just a manual foot pump. Many that carry a spare wheel don't have it inflated correctly or ever check it. A couple of times I've had to use the manual foot pump from my boot to inflate flat and not far off spare tyres in the boots of mate's cars before they could be fitted to the car. If you get a slightly undersized tyre as that's all the tyrewell will take bear in mind if even a fully deflated wheel off the car will also fit in there, if not it can be a bit of juggling luggage if the car is full. a wheel from the car will be dirty and possible wet so possibly best not put on top of the bosses possessions. I would only ever want to use a scissor jack in an emergency for a tyres change and not then really especially on the road or roadside. I assume even for a 2017 VW you could buy a VWŠkoda spare tyre kit to fit in the tyrewell new or perhaps s/h unused (crashes, unwanted).

In that case one less thing to worry about in life. 😄 You seemed alright to me in your video(s). I usually put that I've kept my teeth, looks and modesty but don't mention what those looks were and are like, and no one has taken the modest hook either.

Official Music Video, Remastered in HD, looks and sounds good (English) sub-titles too, stil a great song and recording. Though of course there was a time when you could just listen to a recording without the need for a video - but now you have the choice. I still think often the best pictures are on the radio - but now of course you can get pictures on the radio too, VW might call it Imagination Assist and of course it'd be to German specification standards. 😁 ETA: the problem is who makes the laws and often an individual or individuals have to rule against those laws, another circle of life. Two songs here, Radio Ga-Ga and er, no, I've changed my mind on the second one as it's wrong (unintended pun, it was The Windmills of Your Mind, which ironically is right for me). 🙂

Thanks. Does anything work on an iphone - I'm joking I don't like any so called "smart" devices (they're not, all computers are extremely dumb, including AI, well so far), I'm just having to change my mobile phone, that's used about half a dozen times a year if that, as the 3G is being turned off. German marques for decades have been loaded with over-complex systems that throw up warnings (and want you in the dealership every 5 minutes for Mercs) so I'd not worry too much about taking things too easy - but you've not really put what's wrong. however I'm going on the RAC bit for now. There's a 'Skoda Octavia Mk3 (2013 - 2020)' forum if you want or prefer more/different advice and information and from Octavia Mk3 owners. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk3-2013-2020/ Otherwise, I would follow the RAC but you seem to misunderstand you want high revs and higher speed (within the law and reason to conditions) best for me would be fill up the tank with the oxymoron of a "clean diesel" I found Shell V-Power diesel to seem very clean(ing) running, then take the car on a quiet motorway or long dual carriageway and travel out as far as possible before turning round to come back, say total of 50-80 miles of motorway or dual carriageway. Have the engine running at say 3,500-4,000 for whatever gear is required to get this. To save boredom and exercise the car more you could vary the speed but keep the revs up. Let the fuel tank get low and refill with Shell V-Power diesel again for a second fill. Think of your car's engine as a giant air-pump on for wheels, you want it sucking in clean air (and clean diesel) into the engine, through the engine and through and out of the exhaust. The greater the amount of air going in through and out the more the DPF will be 'cleaned'. As well as too many short slow journeys lack of service and maintenance of the engine will also clog things up and the VW "service" and "maintenance schedule" are quite scant anyway so if any are done late or missed thing might get more clogged than even sticking to the scant VW recommendations. You want the engine air filter and it housing box and hoses to be clean and clear as possible. Then there is the engine oil and filter they need to be changed at a minimum with what VW has but may need doing more frequently if the car gets little use and lots of short journeys (these also wont help the very important 12V battery service performance and life and the intrusive computer systems will make you suffer for allowing the 12v battery get too low for them). If the blow-out run does do it's job and the car goes back to only previous use the clogging will return. To help keep things clear I suggest these types of blow-out runs occasionally, the use of Shell V-power before during and after an engine "service" and/or MoT as detailed above. Change the engine air filter and clean the air box and hoses when required which is usually before VW put, same for engine oil and filter (and I'd use a better oil than VW recommend). Of course the engine is one of the less important components on the car, more important are the brakes, steering, suspension (tyres are part of all three), safety electrics (lights, horn, wipers, blower, etc.), reflective number plates (see and be seen). HTH and you at least get a scan report, clear any error codes and go from there.

To me VCDS is a horribly presented legacy (1990s) tech, nerdy system but of course it has many fans here and if a good choice (for VW only) if you can put up with (or like) the horrible tech, nerdy legacy presentation and use, like all it may have a few errors and omissions possibly fewer than others, you'd hope anyway. When I was looking through some of the Users Manual for the 7610 I didn't like the look of some finger dancing navigation required but I'm not technical in any way and not interested in learning all the terminology and what's placed where the listing of any particular machine, I'm already annoyed I'm spending anytime on a VW - I'm not typical for here. 🙃 As always it's each to their own and it'd be a boring place if we were all exactly the same.

With what you have put that makes you sound like you feel you are superior to others so some things don't apply to you and only those inferior to you (a typical stereotypical engineers' attitude). We all decide whether we want to follow any given regulation/law at any particular time and we all think some regulations/laws aren't rational to our way of thinking and beliefs, we then choose whether to stick to those regulations/laws and when we don't with laws at least we are breaking the law. We all do it, sometimes we admit it sometimes we don't, sometimes we admit it to ourselves and sometimes we don't. You seem to know better than the law makers. 😄 You are not superior we all do what you have put sometimes unfortunately our and your judgement isn't infallible, I know I have put others in danger when driving particularly when I was young and thought I knew better than others. BTW the image doesn't show on my machine but I don't know about on other machines. Also "the glorified police state" as you call it and the regulations and laws are to protect you and I from people like you and I and those that are worse than you and I. I've put it before and will put it again now, if you get out to a place of work with working men and give that attitude that you have now then at some point you'll want and need some sort of protection from some sort of retaliation if only verbal. As you know in the UK most likely start with ****-taking with most working men but some are a lot more reactive and explosive if pushed. You keep your good looks by treading the path correctly. But you will do as you please it's in your character but don't be surprised when others do as they please and it doesn't please you. Queue Kenny Rogers, The Gambler . . . 🙂

Just for info, you might already know but in case not, PeterHuws last "Last visited [the site] 8 April, 2024" but that doesn't mean he hasn't viewed the site and may still get the contact. jaymd last visited the site 19 hours ago. By putting your cursor (finger? with phone? I've no idea) on their nameplates(?) a dropdown appears with the info. Hope that helps and you are contacted.

Hi Khanh, welcome, sorry your post got missed. If your problem is still there then no don't ignore it as it might lead on to more. Have a look at the following for some more info perhaps. - https://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16825/P0441/001089 HTH.

If that's the case and they're a decent garage then they should charge for the charcoal canister and take any now additional installation time and cost as their mistake for poor communication.

Yeah I had a look at it on their site and download the instructions, I always push for reading manuals, even before buying the car, but of course this is against the law for macho and/or arrogant types. Saw it was VW specific and tried editing my post by putting a strikethrough on an appropriate word ('but') however this didn't really show on the word so I just deleted the word and put '7610 VW' to the post's edit notes but these are in a very small font and at very bottom of post after text. For others interest in the (VW specific) Autophix 7610 as Andrew gives it a good rating details are below. Autophix Home page - https://www.autophix.com/ The 7610 (this page was very slow loading on my machine) - https://www.autophix.com/product/7610 7610 'User's Manual' - https://www.autophix.com/product/7610

Hi Andrew, thanks I do tend to be long-winded in my posts and often very long winded and as I'm not into serving everything up on a plate (arse-wiping the young) so that things can be learnt and confirmed, mainly because I don't know the answer(s) and some (many) times the answers can't be know by anyone on the limited information in a post or posts unless many more questions and answers are asked which many here don't like and don't think is necessary. The Twitter/X style of here's a quick short question with no further information and a quick, brief, instant resolution is expected to be given, and perhaps sometimes this is possible but having dealt with people of all sorts and those with old cars ownership when assume is used, well you probably know the saying. The problem with knowledge is that it changes with time and to what depth this knowledge is actually needed, yeap it's best to know why but it must also be accepted that sometimes no one knows and sometimes those that think they do are just wrong for many reasons. I'm old-school-truant, learn a little by experience, if I can remember and hold the experience, increasingly more difficult with age for many reasons. Your son's sensor is a good example, a common problem with a common solution and I would guess (and hope) you tested the sensor before replacing it. Obviously mechanics (and engineers) don't too readily want to admit that a lot of car servicing (in the more historical rather than VW terminology sense) and maintenance (again in the more historical rather than VW terminology sense) and some (many) repairs boil down to clean, and lubricate, even clearing error codes is a type of electronic cleaning. Many people, and possibly quite rightly, don't want to know or care about too much detail of why something has gone wrong and just want it working again as that's their priority in their life. When I used to ask my mate why a computer had gone wrong his (wise) short answer was "Because it can!". 😁 Sorry totally my fault about coolant, I'm mixing up your thread with another about air-con (because my brain can, another total brain-fart 🙃) I have far, far too much experience of (old car) coolant system - but thank gawd next to none of German marque cooling systems other than changing the "for life" coolant and the "Simply" brilliant VW coolant numbering system for their unnecessary extra specifications. IF you can get near at the flap (I'm not sure you can), you may have your own choice but the lubricant, penetrating/releasing agent I recommend for use is GT85 and not WD-40 Multi-Use which isn't as good. (GT85 used to be an English company but taken over by an invasive American corporation, WD-40 company), as Tesco tells us every little helps. GT85 - https://gt85.co.uk/ Again sorry about the coolant refrigerant episode, you're lucky when I threw my hat in the ring it didn't take our eye out, I can't even think of the air-con thread now. If you want to do more and in depth diagnostics in the future on your car and your son's you might want to check your Autophix, it might be a very good scan tool and great value for money but there's lots of info on the 'Diagnostics & VCDS' forum here and the videos of a good and honest (admits mistakes!) auto-electrician/diagnostics, up your way IIRC(?). 'Diagnostics & VCDS' forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ Milligan Auto Diagnostics - https://www.youtube.com/@mrautoservices7354 I'm off now to find a mirror to see if I can work out the difference between my bottom and olecranon.

For quoting from previous posts, if you want to, you can highlight the section you want then you should see just below the end of the section a black box with open quotation marks and the text quote selection which if you click-on (touch?) that black box then puts it as a quote into the post you are writing.

Which may suggest there is a problem with the flap control (computer) or just mechanical restriction - this may not be the only issues at play though, but not helping the situation. Sorry my mistake I meant air-con refrigerant rather than engine coolant (perhaps you did too and have already checked for refrigerant leaks). The dial are designed that way to give reassurance to drivers, the dials are bias to show 90 even though in reality the actual temperature could be a reasonable margin either side of 90 and moving up and down from 90 but the upper margin will be well within normal range of coolant temperature. Obviously you want the coolant temperature to remain around the normal operating temperatures as much and often as possible but you can run up to the red section on the gauge just not a great idea as it leaves less margin to full overheating but there will be bells and whistles and restriction before this point unless there's a real big failure on something somewhere. Andrew as you're not the usual stereotype of an engineer (just been posting with a young version) and willing to listen to others that aren't engineers (well I'm not anyway) I'll be a bit more direct with you. I put about batteries and had in mind remote batteries (I see I've already put about never having a "spare" key) based on your code but I have no idea how good or accurate your Autophix is. All scan tools have strengths and weaknesses and you are using their sets of computer programs in conjunction with VW's very complex, very intertwined computer programs and as you know the engineers in both of these will have some errors. omissions and compromises, then you add in the external electronics, electrics, mechanical. This means things are not always black and white, the scan tool reporting has to be confirmed, checked, cross referenced. In other words the computer ain't always right and when it is then mostly it is just a signpost to the direction of travel for further diagnosis using other diagnostics tools including your human senses. With any car problems particularly modern complex ones like the German marques have made for many decades you need to consider the problem may be caused or affected by more than one issue and solving one problem may not solve all. If you research you will find things like a car's computer systems thinking there might be a fault with a brake light causing other unexpected problems like putting the car into limp mode and even more less relatable issues. One electric/electronic issues can back feed and scatter to other areas of the car where the systems there can throw wobbles, it's Y2K panic again, low 12V battery state of charge can throw up all sorts of unexpected VW warnings, error codes and issues, the headlights might seem bright enough and engine easily start but the car's computer systems won't be happy. There are loads of threads and posts with this in the various forums about this (yet some still find it difficult to accept and make the situation worse by not recharging the 12v battery). This is why I personally (not an engineer in computers or anything else, or expert in anything) prefer that a report of all error codes is taken and recorded but then all error codes are deleted. If you were to put different scan tools on your car they may give different readings and your car may report different error codes at different times using different scan tools or the same scan tool every time - it's a hypochondriacs nightmare (or dream) scenario. 😄 Don't put all your faith in (so-called) "smart" devices or computers generally, as you probably know they're not at all smart but extremely, extremely dumb, even AI always confirm, double/treble check and cross reference the information they give - and any information from any source including blokes off the internet and even manufacturers databases (good engineering practice I believe, though hard to imagine with some of the stereotypical engineers I know, meet and dealt/deal with). There are Briskoda members with VCDS and other scanners that offer help (reports, clear codes and more) mostly non-professional, it might be useful to get a second scanner to confirm your Autophix** also VW specific with access to more data to get a better overall picture plus perhaps live data. See the following link for those in your area who may be able to help if you want. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029 ** I see Autophix 7610 is VW specific (USA lead possibly by the I/M).

🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣 Wow! Pot - kettle situation. From the person that dictates all car parts must be from original engineering design and build company. We would all like to stick only to the regulations that we like and ignore those we don't but that attitude enacted makes outlaws, we have enough of those already. People fiddling with their phone can cause very serious accidents. I have seen car phones being used whilst driving causing distraction from driving longer than you have been alive.

I'll put in a Report (three dots top right of post(s), drop down menu) asking for a Moderator to move it for you. ETA: done - tick Potentially all codes might be relevant and some or all can be unexpectedly related. Error codes can be from low state of battery charge (car, scanner), disconnection/change of battery, change of car part(s), 'coding' programming errors or incidents, computer brain-farts car or scanner programs, perhaps low battery in proximity remote(s) (never have a "spare" key have all keys used in some sort of alternate rotation use). See my answer above and look up B104A00 on the web again bearing in mind my answer above. The hot air isn't coming in from outside but that means you are also not getting fresh air in the car just recirculating what's there which is OK for short periods but not longer periods, probably has something about this in the car's 'Owner's Manual'. Have you have the coolant level checked to see if it's low, possible leak, might be lack of maintenance but some get away with that longer than others or a faulty or break somewhere. Good luck.