Former

Don't worry the alternator with deal with it all! That's yer payment now 'ere's the goods, o mighty one your wish is my command. 😄 Lighten up Graham you'll give yourself an 'eart attack. 😁 One more ... no 'ere is (15 years, 180,00 miles, inspect every year) CamBeltchangechange.pdf No, it really was my pleasure darling.

Great that you're ahead already. I am so used to those that jump to the sexy stuff ignoring the basic stuff. As I put I am almost sure (never really sure about anything much now) that I have read posts on here about fuel gauge issues and some similar voltage figure but I could be remembering wrong. A few others might know a lot more detail on this subject but they don't seem to be around here so much now. Took me second time to realise hand was needle, I thought first time was a wrong autocorrect. 😄 I have no idea in this case but it isn't unknown for manufacturers' wiring diagrams to have errors or updates missed and if gained from other sources even more likelihood of being incorrect for application, if you can find other sources of the wiring diagram to confirm (course they all could have errors or be wrong application as such is life and Sod's Law), it's like following a TwatNav religiously, or Google maps for delivery to a certain address, I guess, wouldn't really know. 😄 Let's put a shout out and see who can reply. Anyone able to help Kieran with this, @Papez @Breezy_Pete @Thefeliciahacker @R_U_AFA ? Hope this helps as it's as much as I can do. Cheers.

The man in that video made a classic man mistake - he didn't read the manual (the instructions for the kit he was using) before using it. Like other battery chargers maintainers it doesn't charge batteries when they are below, a stated in the instruction on this unit, voltage. This charger maintainer probably also had the information on the box it's sold in, perhaps he didn't keep the box, didn't look at the box or just forgot Lots (all?) of charger maintainers are like this (and there are ways around this without opening it up and dealing with the electronics). The charger had a 3(?) year warranty so if it's faulty he could have returned it before taking it apart. If out warranty of course he can do as he pleases with it. If at the time (YT says posted 6 years ago but that's not always accurate) if he'd lost the paper printed instructions he could have downloaded a pdf copy from Lidl. 'Macho men' (those that don't read instructions) look away now - from the Ultimate Speed Car Battery Charger ULG 3.8 B1 (Lidl IAN 59146) instruction book, note the 3.8v, he set his machine a lot higher than that and his daughter would have had to leave the lights on a very long time to get the car battery down to 3.8v, perhaps she did or left other electrics on too. - Internet ArchiveULTIMATE SPEED ULG 3.8 B1 Operating instructions : Free D... Possibly he could easily get a job with VW, looking for something complex (to look "Simply Clever"?) when there's a perfectly good standard basic route that others use successfully. 😄

Hi, welcome. There is a forum on this site for VCDS owners and users that deals with long codes or you could look at and/or post in the Yeti forum on this site. Hope that helps. 'Diagnostics & VCDS' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ 'Škoda Yeti' forums. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/170-%C5%A1koda-yeti/

I can't remember what's already been cover in other thread(s?) but as it's intermittent it could be caused by so much. Do you have KESSY keyless door entry with keyless ignition? No crank makes me think of perhaps ignition switch or immobiliser issue or signal blockage (some charm hanging on or around the area. KESSY intermittent issue with remote key. Proximity keys, gawd bless their cotton socks. Has ignition switch been checked? What type of ignition switch is it. Have you got two remotes sniffing after one vehicle, one in your pocket or handbag another in a kitchen drawer within range - have you tried swapping keys/remotes. If one of these KESSY things Is the key not in use kept in a tin box? Have you checked or changed the remote batteries. There really needs to be more details of when the no-crank happens, the circumstances, where, what's being used, what's happening, just happened, when (time of day, engine hot/cold warm, first start of the day, etc.). need to see if there's a pattern. As I remember it Dealership/garage can't find it, no error codes, a possibly earthing issue investigated from change of starter(?) or engine earth strap, battery, stater motor and solenoid and engine earth strap changed. Then of course there's the potential for the wunderbar complex and intertwined VW computer systems and programs to have issues. I think we covered things like fuse board or it connections. Intermittent no crank, difficult enough with the car in front of someone but over a forum . . . if information is given in an extracting teeth fashion too the car could be replaced before possibly suggestions could be sensibly made (by those brighter than me).

I'm not sure it has a voltage stabiliser as I've no idea how the complex VW system works, you would need the wiring diagram to see what goes where. Again wiring layout and possibly colours could change variously. You are perhaps breaking a primary rule of starting with the basics by jumping on to the sexy stuff, I'd have started at the other end with the sender and it's earthing, wiring and connections rather than going on to 25 year old wunderbar VW plastics and electronics at the instrument end. I'm sure wiring diagrams have been posted before, how much they relate to a 2000 VW Caddy might be another matter but they would at least give an idea of how VW had things laid out how wunderbar clever they were with their electrics and electronics. I'm almost sure someone went through all this before but can't remember what the answer(s) was/were, as well as wiring diagrams I'm almost sure there were some photos put up too @D.FYLAKTOS (and others) often has such stuff. You might as well now keep cleaning, securing and protecting, also testing at whatever stages you can.

With electrics and electronics, you want clean, secure and protected connections, wires, switches, gauges. The other posts on threads on the gauge cover this. Many times physically cleaning connections and adding protection can sort poor or intermittent supplies (be that live or earth). Sometimes connectors need firming up or replacing, wires re-ended or replaced or further protection to or on them. Have a good look at all wires and connections, tug and wiggle connections and wires to test them , make sure all wires and connections are secured, firm and wires not hanging loose when they should be supported. If there might be a poor earth connection one way to test this is to put in a good solid temporary connection from negative battery post (or clamp) to item. As only an example for suspect engine or main body earthing for starting the car using a jump-starting cable, this may be impractical for what you want but any suitable cable/wire with sold connections both ends would do. To me, in your figures, the one that stood out to me was sender ground, connected with ignition on, it didn't look right at 3.46V.

Hi Kieran, I vaguely remember his but I think I was wrong about it at the time anyway. The German engineers, for many decades and still, take some sort of pride and pleasure from taking what should be straightforward things and over-complicating them and this applies as far as I know to the fuel gauge reading for Felicias. I am only used to very simple 1960s and 1970s electrics on very simple old British "sports" cars. Those had simple (but very long lasting) bi-metal voltage stabiliser that took the nominal 12v to 10v, I note 8v and 6v readings with Felicias so have no idea about the voltage stabiliser they have. I have noted before that even those used to the German VW marque stated the dials, gauges and systems were over complex for what is really required. Though well presented I couldn't make sense of your table of figures (or scale to resistance figures) so hoped the others would dive in to the thread. There may be other threads and posts with more details to the numbers you should be seeing. I guess (don't know) that the gauges will be quite common in the vehicle range but there can be wiring and other variations for model year or part year, change of parts of components during manufacture life, perhaps LHD to RHD even or VWŠkoda to VW badged vehicles but I don't know and then there might be changes made since the vehicle left the factory by previous owners and overs in 25 years so all this has to be taken into consideration.

AFAIK (might be wrong, often am) It's not a matter of a switch, it's a matter of (over) complicated VW computer systems, programs, modules, fixtures. You could get it done I expect but it would involve changing and/or adding bits, more work and cost than just a different switch. You could have a look at 'Project & Build Journals' and perhaps 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forums and see if someone has done it and what it involves. 'Project & Build Journals' forums - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/313-project-build-journals/ 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades/ Or switch to another Fabia Mk3 level of trim or another model or a different marque. HTH.

With my wife's 2015 SE with rear manual hand-crank winders I need the ignition on to open or close the window (which is very annoying to me) so I think that means it doesn't have convenience (or similar name) windows package (module(?) / program). Sounds like your Monte Carlo might be the same. ETA pab567 replied to confirm whilst I was still typing.

Sorry I would not know without looking at a parts list and diagram and then not really know. The one thing I think I know is that I would generally buy better than VW use, (good quality) German car manufacture engineering went out with the end of the last millennium. The old reliable brand names like Febi Bilstein are no longer so with them sometimes just putting their brand on a box of a part made by someone else, but I have no idea if that is the case with their suspension parts for all I know they might be good quality and great value, or one or the other or neither. I forget the brand mentioned if the dampers needed replacing again on my wife's 2015 Fabia. A mate had a 28 year old Toyota on factory suspension still and a previous neighbour had a small 20 year old Toyota on factory suspension too. Another neighbour 18 year old small Kia I replaced the ARB drop links as an eagle-eyed MoT tester saw a small split in one of the rubber boots otherwise all factory. How are the springs?

My opinion is change the dampers in the set recommended and see how that goes. Of course the weather makes a difference, if wet noises can be less or more, if dry it could be less or more, if hot less or more, if cold less or more. VW suspension design and build isn't the greatest, you're lucky to get to 70k-miles, I'd never heard of damper "misting" until my wife's 2015 Fabia 11 month-old Dealership supplied and fitted replacement front damper were going to fail the MoT as they were leaking, the very reason they were fitted 11 months before. My wife's car still has a clonk that was very loud this winter with below freezing temperatures particularly, much louder than any issues on the 10-50 year old BMC/BL over 40 years. Other Fabia owners have had these clonks and changed various suspension parts with no success. How does a 2015 Fabia relate to your 2019 Karoq - they're both VWs. If your dampers are shot they need changing, I'd change them as set with the gubbins above otherwise to fit the gubbins above you will be repeating the dampers installations, putting new parts with old worn parts often doesn't go that well overall and in the medium and long term, or even short term.

It might not be the battery but always best to have the battery in a good state of charge for diagnosing electric/electronic and engine non-starting issues. The computer systems dislike a lower state of battery charge, even if the headlights seem bright enough and the engine starts easily the battery may still be too low and all sorts of unexpected issues and (unseen) error codes and warnings can be thrown up, often the first sign the battery is too low the stop/start doesn't operate when it should, if the battery isn't charged sufficiently this will continue and get worse. Fully recharging the 12v battery with an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and instructions for charger, best is to recharge at a low rate of amps, say 3 or 4-amps, this may take a long time so may need more than one session to fully recharge the battery. A 12v battery in good state of charge and health can help with diagnosis but in a low state of charge and health can hinder diagnosis and repair. The 12v battery is one of the most oversold car parts with many being changed prematurely or very prematurely and the batteries and 'coding' are expensive - but - if the battery has been used, abused, neglected too much and too often then it may best to replace it. Start with the battery and let us know how you get n.

One way to determine if that connection is a cause or partial cause would be at point of showing a bad or poor reading to then connect a good earth from battery negative clamp to engine (using a (car starter) jump lead is a good way) and if improves or stops the poor reading you have conformation of that point of weakness. There again the cleaning, (protect/ing/tion) and securing work needs to be done anyway. Abd I should have put we've all balls'd things up before creating more hassle and work for ourselves or others, doing things quick and taking short-cuts often work out to make things a lot slower and longer overall, the boring basics are best not avoided and even done and checked and double/treble checked if things don't work out.

Well done on potentially finding the solution. That looks a bit of a mess and perhaps not fully seated or tighten down (connector cage not sitting parallel and snug to fitment nut under it) but I'm confused why you would have any issue at least whilst it's in that orientation as if the strap was touching the engine that's the earth - but - if the strap was loose and shorting out at a different place intermittently then that's a bad connection. Some very basic lessons perhaps to be learnt here, schoolboy error(s) by someone. I would remove the connection fully clean everything up, fully seat correctly and snugly and tighten for secure fixing, all electrics and electronics and their wires want to be clean, secure and protected from the battery(ies) and its post terminals all the way through wires/cables, connections, switches, components, modules, etc. to all end terminals. ETA: and possibly another case of live side of electrics/electronics being checked but not the earth side.

If you have a good quality reliable garage, mechanic, auto-electrician (so very difficult to find in my personal experience) then I would go with the annual/10k-mile engine oil & filter change ("service"?/service) and add on stuff from the 40K-mile plus whatever is wanted/required.

ETA: I'm having a torrid time editing, the system is almost beating me, 😄 you misunderstood which chart(s) I meant but yeap that's the blue one. Might be older than that, can't remember, I had a bluer chart before that one, the schedules were the same. What isn't needed perhaps so frequently is on there DSG?, air-con service and of course the cambelt! with overstretched intervals for perhaps air filter and "Extended Scope" work/checks. And what driver cant spray a little GT85 on hinges, locks, etc. very occasionally.

ETA: Ootohere and I seem to be editing our posts at the same time 😄 but I'll leave the old lists in anyway. "The plan includes spark plugs and air filter, but in actual fact it would only include them if they happened to be required during the plan," And how does that compare with the better and more clearly defined specialist service over these years. In case you've not seen them, below is an old (out of date, and to me too scant and stretched) VWŠkoda "Servicing & Maintenance" price list and schedule (former VWŠkoda UK cambelt change scam crossed out). And from an Ootohere post a newer list of "service" title work.

Of course they want to sell you a service plan as it ties you in to them for 2 years, during that time they want to pick up other chargeable work. You can look at these plans as a measure for some sort of stability and reassurance or you could just deal with things as they come along or better still preventative measure such as full and proper servicing and maintenance (including that which the owner/driver should be carrying out rather than leaving it all to a once in a year check. As has been put you need to fully consider what these two services actually cover for years 4 and 5. VWŠkoda "services" on some years are little more than an engine oil & filter change (the engine not being the most important system or component on the car anyway, but the change is still required) and a look for more chargeable work. The VWŠkoda "maintenance schedule" is to my mind a bit scant and too long intervals too. Whilst I like AA breakdown cover they're not the only providers and you can get cover via other sources and purchases such as insurance, bank cards(?) accounts, other organisations at often discounted prices. Ootohere is your main for how good or not the particular DSG is in your car and its real requirement for servicing, plus the joys or otherwise of the particular 1.5 engine and of course other Superb owners, 2022 and earlier years. With warranty and service contracts you do need to carefully check who the contract is actually with as it may not be the garage or business selling it to you Dealerships change hands (well the brand names sometimes) and so do independent garages (or perhaps go out of business) so you need to be sure the contract can be carried out by others or taken over. If you're intending keeping the car beyond its 5 years and particularly if many years after that the regular full and proper services and maintenance of the whole car should, to some extent at least, help reduce or spot some issues before things go too far. If you are like many owners the expensive 12V battery may need replacing in year 4 or 5 - it's reliable useable life could be extended by not having the stop/start unavailable when it should be available (first sign of battery needing a charge) and occasional preventative recharging - I've put loads of info on this all over this site. Good luck with whatever you choose.

If your stalk is the same as on my wife's 2015 Mk3 then the following might apply and/or help (generally perhaps).

Sorry I was trying to give you the overall information. I am sure others could explain better than me but I meant going from a tyre at 94V to one at 98W may or may not make any difference or bumpier ride because it also depends on many other aspects of those two particular tyres. Also the same tyres made for UK and Slovenija may vary in make up, or may not. The differences for your suspension long term might be more affected by the difference between a really cheap low quality tyre and one that is very good quality. For the rim specs on the link I gave you can easily reselect to 2023 Superb 2.0 TDI (non 4x4) 148 hp, Europe which I had already checked and was the same 7.5J x 17 ET41 (assuming the website database is correct with this). Tyres are a very complex car component so a wide generalisation of 94V against 98W is just that a wide generalisation for normal road use and any giving their experience and opinion would be probably very subjective. As you know increasing the tyre pressures would also give a bumpier ride, how much, if any, additional effect on a 2023 Superb suspension long term also depends on other factors but for most owners driving normally on (the sometimes rough) UK roads I doubt it would be significant enough for any concern. Shomaz has given his experience with Octavia 4x4 and Suzuki Swift but as I put for 2023/4 Superb owners use or recommendations you could look in the relevant Superb model forums, and of course ask. It's good that you are checking and cross referencing, you need to do that with all information you get from any source, including vehicle, suspension, wheel and tyre manufacturers. All the best.

Hi, welcome. The load index number 94 or 98 is to do with how much weight each tyre is designed to carry, going up just means you have even more margin on the carrying weight for the tyre, despite VWs being heavy old wide busses everything will be well over allowed for in normal use. The numbers are indicators rather than actually telling you how the tyres will behave with those numbers because each different make and model of tyre made be designed and built differently using varying materials and compounds so one make and model of 215/55/R17 98W tyre despite having the same (nominal) numbers as another make and model of 215/55/R17 98W tyre could feel and handle differently on the car. Tyres made for your country may also vary to those made for UK. Usually the numbers are on the inside faces of the wheels, but if you trust the following websites and their information is correct you can confirm with other reliable sources of information (like what's on the inside face of the wheels but a PITA and back! farting about with the silly VW wheel bolts to find out. (7.5Jx17 ET41) - Wheel-Size.com (Superb 2024- 2.0 TDI (non 4x4) 148 hp, Europe) - https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/superb/2024/ Tyre load (and speed) rating - https://www.michelin.co.uk/auto/advice/tyre-basics/tyre-load-rating-speed-rating For what 2023/4 Superb owners use or recommend you could look in this forum or you might be best looking and/or asking in the relevant Superb model forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/171-%C5%A1koda-superb/ HTH.

The avi download doesn't open for me. Always allow that there could be two or more issues contributing to one or more problems, hopefully the issues might be related and solving one solves both (or more) but that can't always be relied on.

Try these Briskoda forums - 'Fabia Projects' forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/205-fabia-projects/ 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades/ HTH.

A lot more than half an hour, that might only be enough to get some of the computer systems asleep anyway. You are best to take a reading as many hours later as possible, then perhaps allow a 0.2v or 0.3v drop if the car's systems are running and not asleep. Yeah it will take more than one session to get to full with the battery so low it won't start the car (24+ hours with 4-amps) so just keep topping up as much as you can each day until full. It's as Warrior has put above. If it drops quickly from say the 12.54v then the battery might have been bu**ered up or you have a drain from something. The car's battery system doesn't want the battery at 100% - but that doesn't mean it can stop you fully recharging the battery with an appropriate charger maintainer which is a good idea occasionally (particularly as an occasional preventative measure). The main thing is if the battery can hold a good charge after a good load has been put on it. Let us know how you get on, you really want a printed battery health report from the seller, or a new battery 'coded in' for added reassurance and the chance to keep the new battery in good condition for a long reliable life.