nta16

Thanks for reporting back. You'd probably be surprised how often the very basics are not known, forgotten or ignored by people at all levels of knowledge and experience and trade training and experience often because it's not macho sexy stuff just plain simple clean and lubricate. Keep the old computer GIGO (garbage in, garbage out) in mind and think of it for diesel as SISO, just try to keep it as clean as reasonable. Don't put too much faith in what the VW computer tells you is mpg and keep your car battery from going too low and you'll have more happy driving - enjoy.

Don't forget it is all about how they perform not how they look, how much air they let through and how much muck they stop from getting inside the engine, how they filter with use.

That was a test on new unused filters as far as I could see and stated it did not test filtration, an important part of a filter's job so a second test is required to see the performance with reasonable use. I have no idea how many times and how much use a race filter actually gets but sport items generally have a very short life and use especially compared to what is expected from road use.

Sometimes because people might be old and forget. Are you on some sort of curfew, afternoon. 😄 What about the other 7 windows, is yours a full top cover? Excellent value, ours never last more than a number of winters. So what are you saying causes this and how do you prevent it?

Be aware that they only retain that red colour if not used much with use they go more a light-ish grey depending on the debris they stop. Good point.

If they have too much oil added after cleaning they can restrict airflow, the K&N at least, I know because I have done that (twice). When I went on the rolling road the tuner took the compressed airline to blow out almost all of the oil I had put (overloaded) on to them (SU twin carbs).

Something like you posted before AFAIK but check with others. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324377616529?fits=Model%3AFabia&hash=item4b8669a091:g:ByMAAOSw5Jdfs7qP

It'd be cheaper to book taxis. Do bear in mind a 5 year old Fabia, or much older, may be what some can afford and they may be very proud of their car as you are with your Audi. I can't see anything other than you hold the phone at correct orientation, which pleases me (and gives away your age). See a recent thread about this for possible help, it does involve very old fashioned and simple ideas on par with wind up windows. It's just the way the batteries are fitted to the car, like your Audi Skoda are just VW products. My total guess is that the battery might be original but it's a total guess. Remind your wife as the driver of the car not to go by the green ball for battery charge as IIRC it only relates to the cell it's in and the battery could still possibly be too low for the computers even if the green ball is in sight. On my Skoda 35 years ago it had one of these magic balls which disappeared from sight showing only black even when the battery had been fully charged. Yes from to both. As you know many places offer 'a service' which is only an engine oil & filter change and nothing else other than a "free visual health check" (such as Dealers) to sell more work but will Cazoo bother with decent or even correct oil (mind you do all the Dealers). If it was your Audi would you settle for this type of service bearing in mind the Skoda is getting 'serve' use so probably needs the old serve servicing schedule, more attention not less. Thanks for your report. As you have three VW products I'd be interested to see what common problems you have or how the problems vary across the badges. I've a mate with a 17 plate van to camper with the 2.0l VW diesel engine and he's so difficult to prewarn as he's got too used to owning a Honda car for 19 years that barely gets a service every couple of years and only has had to had the (British added) alarm from new disconnected and last year a hazard switch replaced (£50 installed) and a Nissan from before the build quality dropped so much from European partner and ownership.

Did I see a dogbone with polybush insert or polybush insert for existing oe am I on Fantasy Island again?

ETA: Two people posted whilst I was still typing this time. Have a look for the issue on the site, I've seen the dogbone mentioned before and getting a different one to parts catalogue but I can't remember if it was with a MK3 Fabia. Or put up another thread with that in the title if you don't get more responses from this thread. I should have put I've not investigated on my wife's car as the noise isn't that bad and often can't be heard over all the strange noises from the engine bay or the tyre noise (or is that wheel bearings) but until it get warmer I don't bother, nothing was mentioned at the MoT or servicing. To be sure which mount, if any, is causing the knocking on your car you'd need to investigate but starting with the dogbone might speed things up, however never assume it's just one item or cause when things are wrong do check for more. I'd follow your findings with interest but no real desire to do the work however easy and inexpensive it might be, working on car is just a PITA and under them also a pain in the neck . . . back, arms, legs, just a total pain. Good luck, I'm sure I'd not be the only one interested to know how you get on.

Think of the visor positioning as a manual operation of directional flaps. With the blower on 4 and air-con you'll soon see the correct angle of deflection that directs most of the powered air back to the windscreen rather than along the front of the roof. It speeds things up a bit but still takes a bit of time. In my car I just (manually) wind the driver's door window down to help but the screen is probably a third the size of the Fabia and I can't remember how effective or not that is in the Fabia as it's not that often I drive it and because of that I've not noticed the issue of the rhs. I did notice how wet the windscreen is on the inside when my wife first got the car (s/h 16 months old) but thought it due to the large windows area and modern plastics. I asked my wife and she said she's never noticed but as our cars have always been parked outside and we're used to scraping ice, snow and excess water off the outside of all windows before starting the car it's an automated thing to do after 45 years. Personally I really dislike to see cars going along the road totally snow coved with only ****-holes to see out of. You'd be best to post in the Mk4 section to see if the issue still exists with that model. I would say I'll look out for this issue next time but I know I'll forget.

You mean last millennium - but I'm actually still there as the plugs on mine are that. 😄

Please note - If he's not used it in 21 years, what other spare parts are carried just in case, in the words of the poster himself - 😁 I didn't say he shouldn't carry a spare, I'm allowed to say personally I think it's a waste (light heatedly). There is logic to it but you would not agree with it I'm sure so let's call it my preference. Depends on what can be fitted in the boot, if full sized wheel and tyre then tyre rotation involving the spare wheel, so depends on the wear and the person buying the tyres as to how many they buy. The decades old now modern fashion for oversized wheels and overwide tyres would mean loss of boot space. It is what the manufacturer has provided and has been deemed by people who check these sort of things, in a similar way to what you do, to be suitable. You have expressed a personal preference and thought which I can not see the logic of - but I accept it as your preference. Not everyone's personality, mindset and posting presentation is the same, a bit more tolerance from all of us wouldn't go amiss

That is exactly where my 'spare wheel' is. Do you want me to check the date on it and its inflation. I'd guess about 2017 and over-inflated but it's too dark to see without taking it outside. 😁

Do you not see that is the point - you know, you know your spare tyre is correctly inflated, some will see their spare for the first time when they actually need it and discover that it's underinflated, by how much they don't know but can see and feel it's "soft". You also know your is from 2001, that shows you know about tyres and reading the information off the sidewall. You can make a very well informed decision about its use. Personally I think you've wasted a lot carrying around a brand new tyre for 21 years without use, but each to their own beliefs.

A sceptic or "expert" would say you would have the same result with not changing the oil, only time will tell but also bear in mind many of these sceptics and "experts" have lower expectations of quality, what is good or perfectly fine to them may not be acceptable to you. A plateau but still steady and better than before, you will have to see what changes with the weather. One of the biggest improvements to a vehicle's regular performance is driving training and technique. It is also one of the most overlooked tuning improvements too. (N.B. I am not a good driver by any standards.)

I drive a car where the nearest thing to ABS is a very old and very faded, always faulty, biological computer, the car is without vacuum booster, the car is also light (according to Google, 735kg curb weight against 920–1,060 kg for Felicia). Do you not cadence brake and use the gears. You have to drive your vehicle within the prevailing conditions, if the braking is as bad as you say then you must adjust your driving or get better braking but you can not beat physics, of the brakes or road. The brakes all have to be in balance, front to rear, improving just the front brakes can make the overall braking worse rather than better. Some cars have a soft slow pedal feel others have a sharp hard pedal feel others cars are in between, there can be personal preferences or what someone is used to as to which might feel better but it does not matter as long as the brakes work well (within their limitations). You must also always factor in the tyres for braking (and many other things like excess weight carried). No we do not see much of that on UK motorways either. 😄

Now you know I am not an oil expert or expert on anything, you would have to ask those who are genuine experts or listen to those who think they might know. 50,000km (31k-miles) may be not be enough usage to be able to tell. You need to know at what 'mileage' a well maintained gearbox using GL4 usually has synchro failure. Many of those who think they might know and some "experts" will be amazed that you changed the gearbox oil at such intervals anyway. Oil analysis would tell you if yellow metals are present and perhaps the cause or you might need to decide if they are from the use of GL5 or other reasons. I have had appropriate GL5 oils in my gearbox for many years despite others saying it will ruin the 'yellow metals', in the same way decades back they said synthetic oil would ruin my engine, neither has proved to be correct so far - but I do hope my gearbox is dead before I am.

Despite all your your fancy phases you might have misunderstood what I meant, are you really saying you'd bang on a 14 year old underinflated spare tyre, just inflate it until its not soft at the bottom and drive in winter as you did before fitting it. You are also mistaking a good salesman for a con-artist and neglecting that many/most mechanics think customers (and salesmen) are something you wipe off the sole of your boot, some of the biggest bull**** I have heard is from bad salesmen but also from many bad mechanics, senior mechanics, "technicians" and service managers who are thus also being con-artists to cover their faults and failings and certainly not being really manly and admitting their mistakes. Fair enough - "Using old tyres on historic vehicles The new regulations exempt non-commercial vehicles aged 40 years and older from these requirements. However, you should get all tyres of all ages regularly inspected by a competent person. This should be part of your tyre management and vehicle maintenance system. Even if an older tyre appears safe, you need to assess and manage any risks associated with its use. A short journey at a low speed when the vehicle is lightly loaded, poses different risks to those involving long journeys, high-speed journeys, or use while the vehicle is laden." - https://movingon.blog.gov.uk/2020/12/09/ban-on-tyres-over-10-years-old-for-heavy-vehicles-and-some-minibuses 'Like new tyres' freshly fitted, on a model that rarely goes far or fast. -

Are you sure you are both not confusing pedal feel and travel with brake efficiency, I have driven older cars that have brake boosters as an optional extra and the braking efficiency has been the same with or without brake booster but the pedal feel and travel different. Better to anticipant driving conditions and need less from the brakes. I am not a good driver but as I use an old car I do look ahead more than when driving a modern car all of the time.

Do you use the sun visors angled to direct the airflow back on to the windscreen. You could also go 'old skool' and use dehumidifier bags like Pingi and (damp) synthetic chamois cloths to wipe and collect the moisture off the screen - or where appropriate try very old school (spelt correctly) and wind the front windows down to balance out conditions.

My wife's car is a 2015 Fabia Mk3, I do not know if it is a common problem but by this thread and others I have seen it does not look like it is unknown. No, that's just another VW and German product, and not a Fabia anyway, generally if you can afford it you should go for a Toyota or Honda but that would not be a popular sentiment here I would guess, but bear in mind I run an old British car and have had a few old and brand new British cars so really know about suffering. Personally now unless I was wealthy I'd not buy a newish car of any sort.

If it's under warranty then yes. My wife's car gets the same sort of sound and it's had it's front dampers replaced at a Dealership. I don't know if you can get uprated or better aftermarket mounts as obviously some of the factory ones don't seem very long lasting.

Yes dominant generally but not only factor. My neighbour's 3 year old Chinese tyres have no crazing or cracking on the outer tyre walls when checked with the naked eye or (non-certified lens) magnifying glass . . . but very easily seen cracks at the bottom of the treads, an Advisory at the MoT, which surprised me as not a Fail.

Blimey I thought Victor Meldrew got run over, he must have had a lot of relatives. (Tiresome was good though). No one has put, that I've seen, that old tyres can't be used (on cars) and yes it's all about condition, a practically brand new fitted tyre could be in worse condition than a 'like new' old tyre. Putting on an unused 14 year old tyre that needed inflating so probably wasn't checked with much frequency and is different to the other three tyres (even if same make and model) needs a little attention, thought and understanding, not much but some, and avoiding any sloppiness of thought and action from the user, and others. We all know the 3rd World condition of the roads in England aren't the kindest to tyres let alone drivers who crash up kerbs. Now you know the MoT, which many think of as showing a car is fine, is merely an annual test in which one qualified person gives his (rarely a woman) personal opinion, of what he can see and test, and at that one instant in time, that it meets the minimum requirements of that test. It doesn't, as many people think, say the car is any good or as good as it could or should be, just that it is as above. Personally I'd prefer old tyres, subject to their condition of course, going back about 8-10 years now the tyres I get start crazing and cracking within a few years and I don't buy cheap tyres.