nta16

You could very easily be right and may I be the first to tell you so if that's the case. 😊 And even IF it did sort it it might only be temporary until the mechanism or computer program seizes or jams itself up again but unless you can poke a stick at either from the shelter of the car's interior I'd be looking for the quickest thing to try for now given the weather. But are you certain you are right, are you sure, are you dead on balls accurate. "Dead on balls accurate?" "It's an industry term." But a quote misses out the lovely Marisa Tomei.

If you are also able to give the battery a low, slow as long as possible recharge (off the car if possible) at the same time, overnight preferably that might also help given the use the battery might get before winter is out. Let us know how you get on, if it was a total waste of time just say so it all goes towards learning (and the yes no count).

Yes but you might need a year of use through different conditions and seasons to see how they are overall. Depending on the suitability to your particular car I expect them to be good and possibly better than the Champion by perhaps a (very?) small bit but I am not sure they will cure your cold start idle time but every small improvement adds up overall. That is what we call a 'coil pack' and plastic does not last for ever but generally I believe they were made better 21 years ago than today's modern made replacements so just look after your original and do not treat it rough, keep it clean and protected and it could last trouble-free a while longer yet. 84,800 km is only 52,700 miles which is very low for 21 years of use but it also depends on the type of use and conditions. If the coil pack starts to play up generally it is noticeable and should be picked up with old school diagnostics, mechanic's brain and/or old diagnostic tools or perhaps if interpreted correctly modern scanners and programmers' laptops. A mate has a 25 year old play car with 58,000 miles on it and the coil pack is fine. I did manage to persuade him a few months back to change his 25 year old HT lead set which he did and he said he thought it was worthwhile. Always twist and pull, or peel pull, the HT leads by the boots to take an HT lead end off. Personally I do not like cheap HT leads (sets) but neither do I buy the (over) expensive ones just good quality at reasonable price, not just the quality of the cable but also the terminals and boots. This is what I know as a coil, used to last a good few last decades.-

Just thought - could that be, partly or wholly, because of your previous cleaning of the air intake and throttle body, or is it partly or fully the plugs. Possibly a bit of both. Even if you had just put new plugs of the same sort (Champion RC89PYC) that might have given an improvement even though the plugs were only used for 10,000kms if they were almost all arduous short journeys of city use that could be more wearing.

Subject to the weather a look-see and clean and lubricate is a very good idea - I'd still try the battery disconnect first and if it worked leave any 'clean and lubricate' until better weather. I'm not sure of access but a small brush and (perhaps adapted) vacuum cleaner nozzle and/or long cleaning buds then GT-85 to lubricate.

@Kharl your location shows as Caribbean but I cannot remember where you and the car actually are, or know where the car might have originally been from. Could it be that different bolt/setscrews lengths or fixings are for different applications perhaps of accessories or for different market areas/regions of the world. Looking at diagrams from Europe or UK ( and right hand drive) may not fully relate to another area/region of the world. The bolts/setscrews originally referred to were not only different lengths but also thickness. - It should be easy to check if it's a M8 or M10 thickness and that then gives the length required if the above information is correct. As for how 18 foot pounds feels it depends on a lot of things, the fixings, conditions, positions, lever length, muscle power, with a correct length spanner with the setscrew in an awkward to get at location you might be surprised how near to the 18 foot pound you might have got - using additional leverage or mechanics' forearms are a different matter.

Well you cleaned and regapped the plugs you have fitted now so when you take them out you can keep them in the car along with a socket changer and if you find any issue with the BKR6EIX-11 then you can swap back to the plug other plugs knowing at least that they fit and work. Whilst monitoring you also need to take into consideration any other factors that might affect the fuel consumption, coolant temperature, etc. either completely separately or in conjunction with the change of plugs.

Looking at my previous post it was more Victor Meldrew than I meant it to be, also looking the photo again the filter doesn't look so dirty but it needs replacing with those gaps. For the issue I think the same as before, a deeper/higher level scan tool is needed to test or reset the Climate's brain and/or flaps - or I'd try disconnecting the battery for an hour as it's free and easy to try, check your Driver's Handbook but you only loose the time of day clock.

Victor Meldrew time 🙂 (look him up if you don't know the name) - firstly you want to change that cabin filter, looks very dirty to me in that photo. Recirculate is to stop the air coming in from outside, say when you are following a VAG diesel too closely. 😉 To me it sounds like it's your flaps, if you know someone with a scan tool of the level that can test or reset them that might be it, if you lived nearer Northampton we could borrow my neighbour's machine and see if I'm right with my guess. I don't know if leaving the car battery disconnecting for say an hour would get a reset but as it's quick (apart from the hour), easy and no cost to try I'd give it a go. For the video it also helps to have the camera held horizontally as it gets more of relevance in the frame (unless the subject is vertical).

Attached another (different) NGK code sheet for you. - ETA: you already had that one have this instead. NGK-part-number-key.pdf

I think you are over simplifying the numbering system(s) and what it relates to, you would have ask the manufacturers for a technical explanation, and I could well be wrong with what I think. I also think you should not worry too much about it. Champion RC89PYC R = Resistor C = 14mm x 5/8" - 3/4" Reach 89 = Heat Range 76-99 Industrial and Special applications (could this be what big customers like VW want on special deal?) Y = Standard Projected Core Nose C = Copper Plus design Champion in their charts do not show how 76-99 relates to their other heat ranges so it would be even more difficult to relate to the NHK charts (and I would have thought it would be more 5.5 than 6.5 but that is just my guess). https://assets.sparkplugs.com/lc/Champion_Numbering_System.jpg I prefer the chart below as it comes from Champion and includes Denso. NGK BKR6EIX-11 BK = 14mm thread size - 16mm hex size 6 = Heat Range Number E = 19mm Thread Reach IX = Iridium 11 = Gap The Champion plug you said was 0.8mm gap with platinum tip, IIRC the alternative Champion I looked at was 10 (1.0mm) gap, forget what tip material, and Denso IK16TT iridium tip is 1.0mm gap with heat ranging on that chart equivalent to NGK 5. So you have different manufacturers with their own heat ranges, differently constructed plugs and different set gaps so they vary and how they work in your particular car would vary possibly to another 21 year old Felicia, putting aside your ECU programming so the only sure way to know how well any of them work in your car is to run with them Generally a wider gap can give more bang for your buck so some systems can sometimes be set up to take advantage of this but you would have to check with your programmer. Not with these spark plugs particularly to any great extent but generally this is what happens when you start tuning the car each change may need adjustments to take full advantage but it is also often trial and error to find if there is improvement, or not, and how much it can be taken advantage of to retain overall reliable and consistent improvement. To get full improvements from any part does also required that the other parts, components and systems are all in very good working condition those related and less related, having dragging brake shoes could wipe out any tiny or small improvement from different or better plugs.

These types of jobs aren't difficult, sometimes awkward with fixings and connected cables and wires but if you take your time. Other than the Torx heads screws you don't usually need special tools. I use old plastic spatulas of various types and thickness to get plastic bits off and the panel without scratching the paint. If you are a bit short of tools have a look at what's about in the kitchen. And if you have removed all the fixings and the door card still won't move it's probably because of one or two hidden fixings (or with my jobs the same fixing I forgot last time). Once you have the panel off you might be able to repair enough until you can get another interior handle or at least unjam it so you can lock it at the white plastic bit. I had a quick look for a good video but I could find one but if you have a look at a few various ones combined they give the general idea, Let us know how you get on and photos of 'what's up' will help with diagnosis as to the cause and further action needed. Good luck.

I don't think there's much point trying the driver's side as it sounds like the door lock and/or handle mechanism is broken or come off and/or jammed. So I'd imagine it's a door panel off repair required but sorry I don't know the exact details of what's involved with this, perhaps others will. The subject has probably been covered here before if you do a search for Mk3.

@FavoritForman94 for future reference and general information what type and location did you find?

If front passenger door does this door have the 'emergency' hidden key blade cylinder lock (you also use to synchronise the remotes) or is that on your driver's door?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Proper Lucas metal gauge in a 'modern' plastic case. I'd keep that too, apart from AGM where you're not supposed to use it I'd expected it does a good job. The swing needle on mine I find very useful as within a matter of minutes I can tell how long it might take to charge the battery by how far and how quickly the needle moves, my other charger is just red or green light. The batteries and charging systems on the cars weren't like even those in the 70s let alone now so I expect having a charger was very handy and today we're back to that for cars that do just short journeys and loaded with so many electrical 'necessities' that need powering. Only yesterday I was trying to persuade a neighbour to use a battery charger that was has been put off since last summer and more warning lights and codes appearing on the dash of the old Merc but being on beck and call for the ungrateful offspring always takes priority, they can phone with their needs at anytime and at very short notice, I keep saying prevention is a lot easier than vehicle recovery especially with an automatic, but as always each to their own.

There is a list of things to check they are not counterfeit on the NGK website, main one I remember is the four numbers on the metal hex IIRC. Be interesting to see if these plugs make any noticeable difference or just quietly do their job. You would want a year round use to see their full suitability to your particular car, but I am sure you will be monitoring this anyway.

Internal or external door handle and on which door?

Sorry I was lost, I thought you got your MoT last week - to be fair it sounds like this MoT tester gave you a more than fair chance. As you've found lack of error codes and warning lights doesn't always mean there's nothing wrong, your eyes and nose can sometimes be more reliable than app scanners. But all might not be lost.

If you've not got the printed paper version of the Driver's Handbook you can down load a less convenient pdf version. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Surely if the sensor is not picking up correctly then the effect will be on short and long drives not just short drives - "The engine will use more gas than it needs on short and long drives, reducing overall fuel economy." Could it be just be surface water / condensation/, something wet, and just sitting there until the engine is started and mostly spun off. Others with more knowledge will have to say.

The readings off the scanner, pressure gauge readings off the exhaust, tap the cat to see if you can hear rattle of broken bits. What made the different garage say it was the cat, did they give an explanation or show you readings or tell you gauge readings? I too lost track of which sensor was being referred over yo the thread, but I'm easily confused. (time for my tea)

The comment about rust in one spot was more about how that would happen, surely if there is rust in that spot it is also in the rest of the reluctor ring as it is made of the same material. I can not see a bit of dirt, unless it is metal bits, can make any odds. You do not have decreased overall fuel economy, in fact quite the opposite with recent increased overall fuel economy.

ETA: sorry I forgot the signal emojis for others, sepulchrave knows I'm joking. Doesn't the trim level tell those that know these sort of things (not me) what might or might not be on the model so is useful, same as some need to know if it's a hatch or estate "Combi" and some of the trim levels refer to extra electrical items. And now it's a mechanical fault previously you said - you're getting very indecisive and/or confusing, next it'll be an electro-mechanical issue 😄 . . . or starting issue. 🤣 I've made the Fabia 3 mistake previously but no one need know that, doh!

I do not know but I do not think the rust below the sensor is a problem unless it is only in that one spot for some reason. The various suppliers books could be very useful, but like any publication, paper or virtual, there could be errors or omissions then the chap in the shop could have made a genuine or lazy mistake. Sounds a bit drastic to cause a engine shut down but who knows how a VW thinks. Before fake it was just counterfeit, there were rumours of counterfeit parts from Merc Dealerships, that should not happen but then the UK motor trade does not have high moral standards at the best of times. If you see videos of mechanics trying to start a reluctant vehicle or one that has not been started for a while, or years or decades you were probably nowhere near as harsh. This is one of the very reasons I like a good battery in god condition, connections and state of charge otherwise you can resolve the starting issue but not be able to start because the battery is now too low. Having had a few old British cars the one thing that really annoys me is if I could not get them started, especially to get home. If they start you can usually drive the car if if it is not running well and I personally care more about me than any car. I have only once flattened a battery because I could not get it started (because of a very stupid and arrogant mistake I made) but this was at home anyway so a recharge overnight and I could start the car the next day. I hope those iridium plugs run well for your car as if they do they should last a long time (subject to car and driving conditions). I do not know but guess they would show up any shortfalls in the rest of the engine running perhaps sooner than copper plugs so act as a warning or reminder of the shortfalls elsewhere (like bad coil connection(s)).