nta16

To be fair they could only code the key or keys you gave them but if you only gave one as the experts they should have asked you to bring in both. Personally once recoded I'd go through the synchronisation procedure as in the Operator's Instructions for both keys just to be sure, as I've use Microsoft for decades I'd learnt not to fully trust reprograming and updates. I also suggest alternating, in whatever way is best for you, the use of both keyfobs (and key blades) that way there is more even wear on the keys, remotes, batteries and cylinder locks plus you then always know where the "spare" key is and it's not mislaid or lost. Not like Blue Velvet's Frank on oxygen I hope. 😄 Take both keys and get them to check both keys fully operate, otherwise you they might just reverse which key works.

@Spindizzy yes they might have balls'd up the coding. My wife's 2015 Mk3 RHD has hidden barrel on the driver's side (RHS, offside) and not on passenger's side (LHS, nearside). If you know someone with a higher level scan tool they could code the key for you, if you live near Northampton my neighbour would probably be able to do it on his scan tool. By coincidence I saw this Scotty Kilmer video today, you need to stick with it a bit and bear in mind it's USA but it might explain your situation now. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJWFg0euZZc

As others have it can depend on a number of factors. I only used the paper gasket on my 1970s engine water pump and it's been fine for over 12 years so far but I've had to change the hot water tap (it is just that, heater valve on most other cars) and aluminium(?) thermostat housing, which are both on the cast iron cylinder head, a few times for various reasons. Initially I used some blue Universal Hylomar on the heater tap as it sits on a pedestal and needs a copper shim so has potential to leak and is in an awkward place to deal with. Later I listen to all the mechanics and engineers that said you only needed the gaskets - I got leaks and weeps. I was very thorough always with cleaning before fitting gaskets. I found (Hylomar) Hylotyte Red 100 to be best at sealing for coolant leaks, as it's semi-hardening you can nip up the fixings in situ to stop weeps if it's been applied and there's ben movement from vehicle use and heat cycles. https://hylomar.com/en/hylotyte-red-100/

To many that is a service change of oil & filter, a very minimum. a proper service should be for the whole car especially the important systems like brakes, steering, suspension, tyres, etc. . Personally given the miss I'd also be checking thigs like the air filter, (plugs), (fuel filter), cabin filter, coolant and cleaning sensors as required. Think of like GIGO (garbage in, garbage out) but MIMO instead - muck in, muck out.

@cash3005 Looks like KeithCheetham had it in the first reply! Give that man a cigar.

@KeithCheethamjust a small point, well three back from the small point. As I always have to remind my wife, as she can never remember, one of the few numbers I can remember is the number of litres to a (UK) gallon, it's 4.546 (as its a '0' after the 6 it's not a round up either). Even though going to three decimal places when working out pump fill to trip I do it out of habit because my wife asks rather than just going with 4.5. Also something of great interest to the likes sepulchrave no doubt(?), my wife always mixes up Deep Purple with Black Sabbath when she hears either of their hit singles on the radio (wireless).

See post above.

Fair enough, but I was thinking of monograde oils and the SAE grades are ranges, in the same way as with engine oils 5w and 30 will vary from one oil to another and how well (and long) it remains at where ever it is in the ranges (not to the same extent as engine oil of course) but cars are obviously a lot heavier than motorbikes and cycles. Once you've got the oil right in the road car dampers it's going to last a very long time and you would hope the damper manufacturers do the work for you anyway. I do not particularly like the scales in the chart below but it can be used as a quick visualisation of the SAE ranges for those that do not yet know of them.

Fair enough, but sometimes you can spend too much time chasing spot on gaps on older used engines (or even when new for old British cars).

Have you placed an 'ad' in the Wanted section of the site and looked in the 'For Sale' section here and other places (Gumtree(?), Facebook (? if you dare or can stand the place), eBay), I can't think of others, general classic car sites, mags, papers (Classic Car Weekly). Scrap yards(?), particularly out IIRC Norfolk way as the importers were there. I saw IIRC Skoda Owners' Club Gb at the NEC Classic Motor Show, I'd have thought that might be a good resource (if you're not already in the club or tried there). Would another VW engine be a straight fit to the Felicia gearbox. ETA: classic car clubs or gatherings as youngsters prefer the more affordable classic cars. That's me out of ideas.

Good advice about taking photos, I'd add - taking notes and/or drawings, and even marking alignments with markers (or Tippex) and as put marking the parts to keep them together and using cardboard sheet or through cardboard boxes lids for those that need to be kept in strict order. Also note which way things like jubilee clips face and orientate to make them easy to get at to tighten (or loosen) when everything is fitted back in. Containers or boxes are useful to keep parts in but also a container to keep your tools together and off the ground/ grit/dirt, plenty of clean rags and a waste container for what is disposed of. Where required use an anti-seize compound, helps for next time of removing anything. Of course a reset your rocker valve clearances. All part of the usual Plan - Do - Review of work jobs, and the more preparation of the location, tools, materials and job the better, and after review, clean up and replenish stocks.

Yes the WD-40 company is another large very invasive American corporation, like Coca-Cola, both own very many brands so you could be buying different labels but from same company. WD-40 Company took over/bought-out the original GT-85 company so GT-85 is now another WD-40 Company brand and product (like 3-In-One). A small can of WD-40 Multi-Use in the glovebox or boot is great for emergency use when out and about (but a can of GT-85 would be better) but more appropriate lubricant(s) are best kept at home / shed / garage. Is it difficult to order online and have things posted in, though I too prefer to buy local when I can, what about cycle shops for GT-85, that's where I first found it in the 1980s. Hylomar and Innotec are in Europe with wide distribution.

If the o-ring is not part of the set of gaskets you could do a good full visual inspection with magnifying glass and reuse, perhaps with a spray of silicone or GT-85, or smear of silicone grease. Or (if?) the o-ring is removeable just replace it.

I have no idea what oil is used in the various makes of vehicle dampers you are referring to but as in engine, gearbox and rear axle generally a good synthetic oil will stand up to the heat way better than a mineral. Fork oil used in motorbikes (and Armstrong lever arm dampers) grades (weights) can be mixed to give intermediate grades (weights) of firmness/softness but really that is the job of the valve(s). Best to use the ISO grade figures, rather than SAE grade figures, as the ISO figures relate to the true viscosity at 40°C, giving a more accurate assessment of damping capabilities.

Probably a cut&paste from a translator(?). But you can make the text that big.

I was just about to post if it's not something like above then it must be the microswitch or the wiring from it to whatever opens the catch/latch/lock. If that didn't work I might try the car battery trick just because it's free and easy to do. Good luck.

If the remote works from the middle button only then it sounds like it might be a programming thing. Are you sure it's not a setting in the Infotainment menu, as the first two options below? ETA: note this is from our 2015 (hatchback?) 'Operating Instructions'.

WD-40 is not the best penetrating/releasing fluid (or even lubricant) - for rusty fixings perhaps Innotec Deblock Oil XS, or GT-85 which you can use as a good lubricant (it includes PTFE) and much of what WD-40 claims. Good advice about apply a good penetrating/releasing fluid and leaving to soak for as long as possible in advance of starting the work, then first try tightening the fixing a little to break the rust/crud seal before loosening, if it does not work first time just soak, leave, repeat. Best sealant I have found for coolant (and I use a coolant that finds all gaps) is (Hylomar) Hylotyte Red 100, it is semi-hardening so a fixing can be nipped up in situ if there is a small leak or weep. 6-sided sockets are better than 12-sided for loosening, ring spanners are good but ratchet (swivel head) ring spanners even better. You can also use a torch behind a straight edge to look for dips on head and block. Innotec Deblock Oil XS - https://www.innotec.eu/oth/en/products/deblock-oil-xs/p1858 GT-85 - https://gt85.co.uk/gt85-original/ HYLOTYTE® RED 100 - https://hylomar.com/en/hylotyte-red-100/

I am very inexperience in this (like you?) but from the little experience I have I would just say, take your time and be clean with your preparations and the work. Drain all the coolant, it needs replacing anyway, don't forget to drain and/or full block off your heater as it's at highest level. No doubt you have researched the best advice on retorquing the head and what to use, if anything, with the particular Payen HG you have bought. Better to check three times rather than twice that you have reconnected everything correctly and tightly before refilling coolant and engine starting. Once you have started and stopped the engine from the work, check for leaks and again tightness of connections and do the same again after the first proper road run, Then forget about it. Good luck, take your time, never worry about how quickly anyone else says they can do the job as often they exaggerate and/or being selective or have no real concept of allowing for all the time to do all of the work.

The microswitch is electrical. Use of a bi-directional scan tool to test and look for where a break might be. Or, at your own responsibility for injury to yourself or vehicle as this is just general thoughts as I don't know what's on or with these cars for the 'handle' operation and note I'm not an expert in anything - remove the handle assembly and test at that point with a multimeter or with bulb for a yes/no, check operation of catch/latch/lock at that point by bridging microswitch connections if possible or bypassing.

Do you know, I thought we'd meet before! Well, well, small world.

@TMBI think it's just a posting/quoting mistake by BlueTigger - you and others are being thanked.

Either you're internet connection or mine is tardy then as mine shows your post (now) about an hour later and there was another post in between. But at least we're agreeing on something which is good. 🙂 Was I the vicar? I can put this as 'e'll have stopped reading by now, I'd totally forgot about the clutch before, and thought it'd be cable, I just repeated his good idea. Definitely worth looking at as it's free and easy - but in the cold, no, no way, especially as it's not bad and can be worked around, definitely low priority, for now at least.

Before that I put what you've just repeated, you're bulking the thread out unnecessarily, will you get annoyed with yourself for this, don't, breakout of your sharp monochrome and enter the world of fuzzy grey. I was the vicar?

Overall getting a good education is a better use of your time than farting about with cars. Might not seen it now but time passes so fast, a blink of the eye and you'll be your grandad's age.