nta16

Tayna and other sites will tell you to check that the battery fits, Tayna - "CHECK AGAINST YOUR CURRENT BATTERY" - "Possible Marked Code(s)" - overall sizes - " tick I've checked - This Matches My Battery". All databases have errors, including Tayna - and Halfords, my neighbour bought a Halfords battery which had a different code for his car the wrong type of hold down which he wouldn't let me do 30 seconds modification on (cut off the extra layer of plastic bar) so I had to do 15 minutes of modifying the meatal clamping bar and finding appropriate fixings (setscrew, washers). Those 'magic eyes' aren't really up to much they can show green even when the battery is low and they only? (or used to?) relate to one cell out of the six. It's the German's that have got you confused by having the battery arse-about-face, Tayna show 027 as the battery code for 1.2 Roomster, see here but I can't confirm the fuse pack fitting to any. I've had their Enduroline fitted to my car for a number of years now and it's been fine. - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/027/

Karl, cracking video. I like the varied wheeled transport and the mystery fourth camera person too. What did the text say as I could not think of a way to get a translation.

Out of personal choice I would always go (genuine) Japanese over German especially if I was keeping the car for a while.

Buying a "cheap" part can often turn out to be more expensive than buying a more expensive but good quality.

I was going to put I didn't think Avon were British anymore but I wasn't sure about the motorcycle tyres, I couldn't see a country of manufacture on the Avon we have, must be on the inside. The Nexen has made in Korea (doesn't say which).

I don't suppose s/h heads are readily available in the UK. Used to be the scrap yards out Norfolk/Suffolk that were great, very low prices for items.

Very shiny. That gasket looks a better fit to that block, though not tailored fit, the copper insert appears to line up much better with the hole. Originally I thought those types were Payens but now I know better (if I can remember).

I didn't want to put things like this as a certain person just guns at things I put picking holes, highlighting the mistakes I make (many) is fine but me having to explain everything I put and where I've referenced from gets tedious for everyone. I was thinking of this as it was suggested, along with other actions, to someone I know fitting a supercharger to his car. Quick Google search - "A rule of thumb for automotive engines is that a 0.025-inch increase in head gasket thickness will lower compression about 0.5-points" I don't know the accuracy of this statement though.

Just seen in the other thread Thefeliciahacker put - "Mine is a green bt581" @areedI'm being fussy about hg and numbers because as I put in Thefeliciahacker's thread I had a BK450 in 2020 and it had a sticker on it , which was really a small hand cut piece of paper, clear taped on the outside of the gasket packaging as photo below. Also I saw a story about another owner that fitted the BK450 gasket and filled the engine with water ready to test the next day to discover when he went in his garage the next morning the water had leaked out at the gasket. This suggest that at least there might be an issue with that one particular Payen gasket at one time. Bear my story relates to a black sticky-surface type gasket different to yours but I took no chance and followed the advice on the sticker.

Fair enough, so which gasket is in the DT581set, presumably the BT581(?) (but dangerous to assume). There is or might be(?) a listing for DT580 set so that might still be available some places(?). -https://www.drivparts.com/en-gb/catalogue/60833/payen/sealing/gasket-set--cylinder-head/dt580.pd.html#wildcardspecial-part_number=DT580&search_type=part&category_id=3 For a Payen gasket I like the look of the green one you have but I would also look at other makes of gasket that are well made and fit well too.

That's the image I put my hyperlink to, but it might just be an image as if not that that looks like a rough cut paper/fibre(?) type gasket rather than a clean cut green PTFE but as I say it might just be an image but often it's best to confirm as after all the gasket has changed from when you last ordered it. Of course the lists I have linked to maybe in error, I don't know (I've dealt with many errors in many listing so I take little for granted in that respect now.

No, sorry, - BT580 is "No Product found". ETA: In the listing I linked to.

Fair enough about engine and previous gasket (though it does look odd). Bear in mind many sites/sellers can show wrong/generic/out-of-date images and it may depend on the age of the stock. Payen could have gone over to green PTFE for many reasons (hopefully not because the shiny black ones like I fitted in 2020 were faulty) but I did note that DT581 is a gasket set and BT581 is a single gasket. DT581 - https://www.drivparts.com/en-gb/catalogue/60285/payen/sealing/gasket-set--cylinder-head/dt581.pd.html#wildcardspecial-part_number=dt581&search_type=part&category_id=3 BT581 - https://www.drivparts.com/en-gb/catalogue/5109601/payen/sealing/gasket--cylinder-head/bt581.pd.html#wildcardspecial-part_number=BT581&search_type=part&category_id=3 Always 'fun' ordering parts particularly where you can't go into the shop and actually seen them like you used to. ETA: Sorry, I'm not trying to add to your problems but trying to help avoid them if possible, I know from 30+ years experience ordering parts for particularly older cars isn't always as straightforward as some might expect and there can be many listing differences in parts listings, catalogues and databases.

Looking at the photo of the gasket on the block, is the engine block the factory original type to the car, it obviously can be used with the head but the gasket looks like a mismatch - that is, the gasket matches the head but not the block? Do the engine block markings match to the car as the original engine type or has another engine been fitted before areed's ownership?

I missed the hyperlink in R-Blue's post and did not know this head had a HGF 6 years ago, looking at that thread areed with the mentoring of RicardoM, and help of others, done a great job of that head gasket replacement and other work. 6 years ago. On seeing the skimmed head (from 6 years ago) I not knowing any better was very surprised at the damage to the head left after skimming and thought there was quite a bit more left before getting to the skim limiter mark but if that would have made the compression too high was there nothing to overcome this that could be done(?). It was recommended to me to use a particular Payen head gasket as that would be best so that is what I ordered but when I removed the head I was disappointed to find the exact same gasket was the one that had failed after 44,000 miles but that was at a common compression blow point of a very narrow band between the cylinders. I lifted the photos from previous thread showing the areed's present broken gasket when first fitted 6 years ago and head after skimming 6 years ago.

Er, whatever keeps the firing correct but fully tests out the leads and the plugs, using the old leads if they are still available, I think unclipped 2 would get to 1 but possibly it's the clipping and position of the leads that might cause a problem. Again if testing the old leads with a multimeter it would best to do it with them clipped into position as it might be the bends or clipping that causes and exposes the problem where as as measuring them just laid out straight or just looped might not. I am not a big fan of cheap digital multimeters are they can soon be unreliable but if you test the meter against a known results before each test then that should help confirm readings more. I doubt if swapping around the new plugs would prove much now given the misfire went to 3 before. I have next to no idea (or even less) about these ignition systems but with the old systems especially with electronic added there can be strange and intermittent faults that need certain circumstances to play up but are fine otherwise. Ideal solution is to put or swap the parts one at a time with another same model car that is running well to see if/when it gets the misfires and you don't. 🤣 Good luck.

I missed your post, this computer is playing up. Is that not just misfire on 3(?). Fair enough, a bit of straw clutching, but like my computer now the car's computers can sometimes play up in weird and strange ways (but never wonderful). I think xman has given you a path to follow. Be very careful if messing with live HT leads and ignition, I know of someone who had a very bad and long lasting problem from doing so, be correctly insulated.

Swap 1 & 4 with 2 & 3 and see if the misfires move. If you test the HT leads (ETA: not live but with a multimeter) try to do it with the lead still clipped and shaped as fitted, just in case it's not the ends.

@R_Blueare you able to say if the head in your photo used the same sort of Payen gasket as areed and whether the cause was thought or found to be the gasket?

I know this does not help but it might show you are not alone. Different car and engine but on my present car I had a HGF at 7,000 miles after engine rebuild/recondition, really annoying, and then again after another 44,000 miles, very annoying, both times the head was skimmed, definitely needed the second time, but the head has loads of spare on it.

Until more knowledgeable people arrive I will give you my thoughts. If you did not have a scan tool would you know there was any misfires, and if so what problems are the misfire causing. Did you try swapping the HT leads and/or plugs (keeping correct firing order) on 1 and 4 to see if the misfire moved with the swapped items. NGK plugs and HT leads should be good, items from China can be very good or not. I did not notice a time for the door fault if it is the same as misfires that could be related. Checked the readings of engine sensors, coolant sensor. Done a longer live data on scan tool to get more record of misfires. Have you been through the servicing items like air filter, fuel filter, clean inside air intakes and no vacuum leaks, checked gaskets, connections of hoses, trunking and electrics. Checked level and condition of coolant and engine oil, battery charge and connections including earths. What about a compression test on the engine, That is me out of ideas.

@Auxiliary if your Fabia is new to you or fairly recent then you might want to put a scan tool on it as suggested and I always suggest carrying out a rolling staged fully service/check of the whole car including anything that has been recorded as done in the last appropriate number of years. Fairly easy to check things like engine oil and filter, air filter, spark plugs, cabin filter and to see if the inside of air intakes and such like and any necessary sensor(s) are clean. The engine of course is not one of the most important components or system on the car, more important are brakes, steering, suspension (tyres are in all three of these), electrical items to lights and visibility. It might be that all is fine already but it pays to check. Personally I would not put too much faith in any factory onboard fuel consumption measurements. Good luck - and your English is better than mine and I am born and bred English.

Yes but it might have been even better if the oil had been changed or improved type. 😄 - Or it might not. If it's good, or good enough, I can understand that it might not seem or even might not be worth the effort to change. I'm not Novax DJoke-abit suggesting positive thought can purify your gearbox oil. Sorry I've no idea, I don't know Mannol but I'd guess Febi don't 'make' their oils, same way Ford don't. I'll leave you to research what synthetic oils really are - but a good oil is a good oil regardless of its description. Oil colours can vary widely and usually has little significance. ETA: If you like a particular oil and it works for you stick with it, you'd really have to go out of your way to find a poor oil normally. Personally I use Millers Oils as they're a local (well UK) blender and seem to do good products over a range of choice. The ones, from decades back to now, that tell me I'm wrong with my choice of types of oil I've used in my classics often only do dozens or hundreds or few thousands miles annually (like me now) but I've put at least a couple hundred thousands miles plus on the various "classics" I've had and the engines have been fine (well as much as any British 60s/70s engines can be). In my '73 Midget (my only car) I use a Millers 'fully synthetic' 20w-50 and in my Ford Type-9 gearbox I use Millers synthetic GL-5 spec gear oil which I'm assured by those that know better will destroy the "yellow metals" in the box despite Millers and others saying some modern GL-5 don't. I put a Millers GL-4 synthetic in the Fabia gearbox as obviously this is of high quality German engineering. 🤣

Head gaskets are a proper PITA part often little more than bits of paper but can cause so much trouble and hassle. Why they go or how long they last can have so many variables from design and manufacture of block and head and gasket itself to use and abuse, wear and tear of engine - or gasket in this case. 😁 When fitting the gasket needs to be right, head, block and gasket all clean, head and block level and not warped. Then there's the sealant (or not) and correct torqueing, and retorquing if done, or perhaps should not be done. The head studs (and nuts or fixings) condition or replacement. I don't think the coolant would make much odds, unless it's got something in it it shouldn't have. If you want you could throw in just sheer bad luck. Once you have cleaned the block and head someone that knows about engine rebuilds might see something on them that might give an explanation (that's not me I'd not have much of a clue unless it's very obvious. To me the gasket might have broken up when you parted the head from the block but I don't really know. We're expecting a report from a fellow poster on their recent HG change, that might help you too.

Payen is a well known name in "classic" car circles. Looks like(?) the brand has been banded about recently, now owned by DriV(?) who are Federal-Mogul Motorparts LLC(?), all American corporate shuffling around I expect for who knows what reasons. The only thing I know is, like many others, do not trust their website's parts database. ETA: https://www.drivparts.com/en-gb/catalogue/60833/payen/sealing/gasket-set--cylinder-head/dt580.pd.html#wildcardspecial-part_number=DT580&search_type=part&category_id=3||3