Dappernut

That's really helpful, nice one AG.

Toodle pip old chap.

Fingers crossed.

Excellent progress. What's this Fin Super MicPol stuff? Never heard of it. PS. You deserve a medal.

Man, there's so much her that could potentially rattle isn't there? Using the old tap test to see what generates the right (i.e. wrong) frequency, does it suggest any one place more than another? I'm dubious about what appears to be the sliding section.

The vent louvre machanism when removed from the vehicle seems extremely rattley to me, though I couldn't immediately think of any way to deaden it. You obviously need something in contact with the louvres that would still allow them do move and which would maintain effective contact for (hopefully) as long as I keep the vehicle (i.e. several years). I could never really convince myself one way or the other if the main culprit of the rattling was the glovebox or the central passange side vent. It's probably both... Don't get me started about the second row seat buzzing... Something sounds loose, but I'll be blowed if I can work out what.

Of course, I'd never do that... 🙄

Yes, there are a couple of holes on each side of the vent body, accessed between the louvre strips. Just put the pick in each hole in turn, pull out of the dash and wiggle the vent forward/out. There is no locking mechanism. It's just the spring clips holding it in place through friction ( and peraps a small detent in the dash). There is a picture in one of the workshop manual PDFs. I recall I did have to pull quite hard and was worried about something breaking. There is some fabric tape stuff on the metal clips and that largely tore off as a result. Re: the washers for the knuckle. Could you get just one washer in and would that take of any slack, or is there litteraly zero play?

I took the centre one out next to the glovebox, yes. Basically you need a right angle pick or soemthing similar to just pull it forwaards and it slips out. Just a friction fit using 4 x metal clips.

This is all really helpful. Good job! I'd hoped that simply popping the pin and adding a couple of felt washers would get 90% of it making it 'good enough'.

Thank you. Given it's glued, you'd have thought there wouldn't be much to rattle other than the mechanism.

I think mine suffers from this too, though for me it comes and goes. Is the spindle just a split pin that pushes out?

Hi, I'm pretty sure they're just indictor text for what the adjacent roller controls do. see:

I agree, to me it sounds like a pump. Based purely on Youtube videos, it reminds me of a faulty fuel tank sender pump however that'd obviously be louder near the fuel tank at the rear.

Does it sound louder in the front, the back or no difference? It sound vaguely like a fuel pump to me (but what do I know?).

They may be sealed to prevent 'access' but I seriously doubt they'd actually be truely sealed due to the stresses caused by atmospheric pressure changes over time.

I have a facelift car and about the only thing that's never made a noise is the internal door handles, so there's hope in that regard.

The vents seem almost designed to rattle, so I'm surprised they're not much much worse than they are.

I have a bit of a history of breaking trim. Amy advice on where to attack it to get the trim off the lid please? It would certainly be interesting to remove the trim for a while to see if the buzzing goes away. I'd then obviously know the cause 100%.

For me it seems to make little difference if the lid is open or closed. Even though the lid seems purpose built to be a resonator, I think my problem is something deeper. Is your rattle constant, or does it come and go like mine?

I'm interested in any intel on the top glovebox. Mine has a mega annoying rattle/buzz that comes and goes for no apparent reason. At least I think it's the top glovebox...

Does your car have the spare?

Just had the Vector 4Season fitted yesterday and was suprised to discover the old Continental ContactSport from the factory had the seal inside anti-puncture treatment. I never knew. Garage fitting the Vectors were very concerned that I'd now be stranded at the side of the road in the event of a puncture, however they'd assumed the vehicle didn't have a spare (which it does).

See here from Continental by example:- https://www.continental-tyres.co.uk/b2c/tyre-knowledge/mixing-tyres/#:~:text=The tyre industry recommends fitting,vehicle stability on slippery surfaces. It all seems crystal clear, until it goes on to muddy the waters by saying this may not apply to front wheel drive! Perhaps the advice should have been "fit new tyres on the primary driven axel, and in the case of a 50:50 power split then fit them on the rear"?