classic

Sold.

Not yet, but if my 60 Enyaq goes 200 miles in summer with Aircon working, motorway speeds etc then even a 50% reduction for cold weather will still be 100 miles. From what I have read EVs in real cold countries (not the UK) lose 30 to 40% range in winter. I’m not even remotely concerned and I’m sure Jaytip will have no problems with their intended taxi use..

We’ll see. I predict no problem even in cold weather. 30 minutes on a 50kW rapid will put around 80 miles into it.

No problem whatsoever.

Hi, the longest single journey I’ve done is 183 miles. Started at 100% and an indicated range of 202 miles. Got back home 183 miles later with 8% remaining and an indicated range of 18 miles, so the cars initial estimate was only 1 mile out. That journey was a mix of urban, motorway and rural B roads. I did 70mph on motorways (probably 60 miles of the 183), 2 people on board boot full of stuff. That included 2 hours crawling through a traffic jam. I have found the range indicator, which everyone seems to call a guessometer, to be very accurate. I think it helps that I am the only driver, It started out wildly optimistic when I first got the car but it soon adapted to how I drive and use the car. I don’t drive it hard, but don’t hang around and I’m definitely not going to be sat at 56 with no heating or aircon, or slipstreaming lorries. I have the climate set to 20 C and just leave it to do its stuff pretty much all year round. They are definitely way more economical around town in stop start traffic.

Price dropped to £180

That’s good, thanks Perchede. This is the link to their Enya 60 info https://www.smarthomecharge.co.uk/vehicles/skoda/enyaq-iv-60/

Had a look at the label, and indeed it is 3 phase, 32A. Will test it out at some point. Therefore no need for @Cotswold to be looking at buying a separate 3 phase cable. However, these are the specs from ev database, which suggest it won’t charge faster on 3 phase….. https://ev-database.uk/car/1279/Skoda-Enyaq-iV-60#charge-table Type 2 (Mennekes - IEC 62196) Charging Point Max. Power Power Time Rate Wall Plug (2.3 kW) 230V / 1x10A 2.3 kW 29h45m 7 mph 1-phase 16A (3.7 kW) 230V / 1x16A 3.7 kW 18h30m 11 mph 1-phase 32A (7.4 kW) 230V / 1x31A 7.2 kW † 9h30m 22 mph 3-phase 16A (11 kW) 230V / 2x16A 7.2 kW † 9h30m 22 mph 3-phase 32A (22 kW) 230V / 2x16A 7.2 kW † 9h30m 22 mph † = Limited by on-board charger, vehicle cannot charge faster.

So, if I go on a 22kw public charger and use my normal type 2 cable the car will charge at 7.2kw and If I had a 3 phase cable it would charge at 11kw ? I don’t think I would bother for an extra 3.8kw 😬

I’ve got one of the cars but as yet haven’t used anything other than home charging, a 7kw ac charger at a car park, and one 150kw rapid. I haven’t had to use public chargers anywhere near as much as I thought as the actual range is really good. Looking on zap map I’ve seen some 22kw public chargers, I’ll give one a try if I’m nearby next week, but as far as I can see they have a tethered cable or you use the normal type 2 cable of the car. Do you need to additionally buy an actual 3 phase cable ? Excuse my lack of knowledge, I’m still learning something new every week with this ev thing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8UiSdYxEmmY

Not sure about easy. Routing the dash cam wire from the screen to the fuse box is not straightforward. The a pillar trim on the Enyaq is very securely fitted, and you’ve got curtain airbags to route around. Having watched the video on YouTube, I’m not convinced how the guy routes the cable behind the airbag then into the rubber seal. He has clearly damaged his headliner and the part of the seal he puts the cable in is surely meant to be compressed when the door closes.

I don’t have the transport pack and the car came with the plastic Velcro thing.

It doesn’t, but if you know for example, that 100% is 200 miles, then every 10% of loss is 20 miles less. The data screen will also give you info on miles driven since start or charge. The short answer to your question is that it doesn’t do what you’d like it to.

Select vehicle screen, then charging in the top right corner and you get this.

I would ask them every single day now for that….but I’m bitter and twisted !

I think I would get it checked by a Škoda dealer. Ride quality is subjective, I’m ok with mine. I had a passenger onboard yesterday, on some pretty rough roads in the Peak District and only had positive comments about the car, but that doesn’t really help you out. If it is really very harsh maybe there is something like transport blocks still in place.

If you can use the 3 pin at work then this my quick calc, on the back of an envelope. £200 for a 3 pin charger, £1.60 ( £0.04p/ mile) approx of electricity to do your 40 miles round trip = 125 charges at work for the 3 pin charger to have paid for itself and everything thereafter is a bonus.

I think you need to run the battery down low, then try it on a rapid charger. At least then you’ll know it actually has got the 100kw charger. What you’ve seen on the fast charger seems to suggest it isn’t working properly or hasn’t got the capability. I’m personally not convinced the 100kw thing makes a lot of difference. The fact they can only take a really fast charge when the battery percent is low is one of the reasons I wasn’t bothered about upgrading from the standard 50kw charger. Fortunately I don’t regularly go beyond what I can charge at home with and it seems the 100kw option just saves 20 minutes or so.

It works with my pod point, and stops charging when it reaches whatever limit I’ve set. Also worked ok using a public 7kw BP pulse charger where I left it set to 90%. However, I tried the charge scheduling from the car and although it charged the battery it only charged at 2.5 kw, so didn’t reach the 80% limit I’d set and only got up to 57% by the 0700 departure time I’d selected.

Yes, in the car on the charging screen there is a slider to set your desired max charging limit.

I’m not going down this rabbit hole, I’m out. Hopefully they eventually do an awd non sport line version for ronniebarker.

I reset the tyre pressures, pressed the set button and got a screen with an option to set the pressures, that gives you an option to confirm all the pressures are correct.

Not quite as easy, but if you can see the coil springs under the front wheel arches there shouldn’t be anything clipped onto or between the coils. It might even have something fitted around the rod of the shock absorber, I’m not totally sure how they do them nowadays. If the blocks have been left on the suspension would be really hard. You will have to get down low in the dirt to see the rear springs.

Worth checking the pressures. Mine were all set at 2.7bar instead of 2.5bar. Interestingly the data sticker shows a spare tyre size and pressure, when I was told no spare wheel option was available….. Once the tyre pressure has been set in the monitor it will only alert if it detects a tyre may have lost pressure. It’s pretty dumb, you tell it the pressures are set correctly, and that’s all it knows, it doesn’t monitor the actual pressure. On my previous Octavia it used the abs sensors to detect a difference in wheel revolutions, I presume the Enyaq is the same as the valves don’t look like TPMS ones.