classic

Hi, the longest single journey I’ve done is 183 miles. Started at 100% and an indicated range of 202 miles. Got back home 183 miles later with 8% remaining and an indicated range of 18 miles, so the cars initial estimate was only 1 mile out. That journey was a mix of urban, motorway and rural B roads. I did 70mph on motorways (probably 60 miles of the 183), 2 people on board boot full of stuff. That included 2 hours crawling through a traffic jam. I have found the range indicator, which everyone seems to call a guessometer, to be very accurate. I think it helps that I am the only driver, It started out wildly optimistic when I first got the car but it soon adapted to how I drive and use the car. I don’t drive it hard, but don’t hang around and I’m definitely not going to be sat at 56 with no heating or aircon, or slipstreaming lorries. I have the climate set to 20 C and just leave it to do its stuff pretty much all year round. They are definitely way more economical around town in stop start traffic.

Price dropped to £180

That’s good, thanks Perchede. This is the link to their Enya 60 info https://www.smarthomecharge.co.uk/vehicles/skoda/enyaq-iv-60/

Had a look at the label, and indeed it is 3 phase, 32A. Will test it out at some point. Therefore no need for @Cotswold to be looking at buying a separate 3 phase cable. However, these are the specs from ev database, which suggest it won’t charge faster on 3 phase….. https://ev-database.uk/car/1279/Skoda-Enyaq-iV-60#charge-table Type 2 (Mennekes - IEC 62196) Charging Point Max. Power Power Time Rate Wall Plug (2.3 kW) 230V / 1x10A 2.3 kW 29h45m 7 mph 1-phase 16A (3.7 kW) 230V / 1x16A 3.7 kW 18h30m 11 mph 1-phase 32A (7.4 kW) 230V / 1x31A 7.2 kW † 9h30m 22 mph 3-phase 16A (11 kW) 230V / 2x16A 7.2 kW † 9h30m 22 mph 3-phase 32A (22 kW) 230V / 2x16A 7.2 kW † 9h30m 22 mph † = Limited by on-board charger, vehicle cannot charge faster.

So, if I go on a 22kw public charger and use my normal type 2 cable the car will charge at 7.2kw and If I had a 3 phase cable it would charge at 11kw ? I don’t think I would bother for an extra 3.8kw 😬

I’ve got one of the cars but as yet haven’t used anything other than home charging, a 7kw ac charger at a car park, and one 150kw rapid. I haven’t had to use public chargers anywhere near as much as I thought as the actual range is really good. Looking on zap map I’ve seen some 22kw public chargers, I’ll give one a try if I’m nearby next week, but as far as I can see they have a tethered cable or you use the normal type 2 cable of the car. Do you need to additionally buy an actual 3 phase cable ? Excuse my lack of knowledge, I’m still learning something new every week with this ev thing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8UiSdYxEmmY

Not sure about easy. Routing the dash cam wire from the screen to the fuse box is not straightforward. The a pillar trim on the Enyaq is very securely fitted, and you’ve got curtain airbags to route around. Having watched the video on YouTube, I’m not convinced how the guy routes the cable behind the airbag then into the rubber seal. He has clearly damaged his headliner and the part of the seal he puts the cable in is surely meant to be compressed when the door closes.

I don’t have the transport pack and the car came with the plastic Velcro thing.

It doesn’t, but if you know for example, that 100% is 200 miles, then every 10% of loss is 20 miles less. The data screen will also give you info on miles driven since start or charge. The short answer to your question is that it doesn’t do what you’d like it to.

Select vehicle screen, then charging in the top right corner and you get this.

I would ask them every single day now for that….but I’m bitter and twisted !

I think I would get it checked by a Škoda dealer. Ride quality is subjective, I’m ok with mine. I had a passenger onboard yesterday, on some pretty rough roads in the Peak District and only had positive comments about the car, but that doesn’t really help you out. If it is really very harsh maybe there is something like transport blocks still in place.

If you can use the 3 pin at work then this my quick calc, on the back of an envelope. £200 for a 3 pin charger, £1.60 ( £0.04p/ mile) approx of electricity to do your 40 miles round trip = 125 charges at work for the 3 pin charger to have paid for itself and everything thereafter is a bonus.

I think you need to run the battery down low, then try it on a rapid charger. At least then you’ll know it actually has got the 100kw charger. What you’ve seen on the fast charger seems to suggest it isn’t working properly or hasn’t got the capability. I’m personally not convinced the 100kw thing makes a lot of difference. The fact they can only take a really fast charge when the battery percent is low is one of the reasons I wasn’t bothered about upgrading from the standard 50kw charger. Fortunately I don’t regularly go beyond what I can charge at home with and it seems the 100kw option just saves 20 minutes or so.

It works with my pod point, and stops charging when it reaches whatever limit I’ve set. Also worked ok using a public 7kw BP pulse charger where I left it set to 90%. However, I tried the charge scheduling from the car and although it charged the battery it only charged at 2.5 kw, so didn’t reach the 80% limit I’d set and only got up to 57% by the 0700 departure time I’d selected.

Yes, in the car on the charging screen there is a slider to set your desired max charging limit.

I’m not going down this rabbit hole, I’m out. Hopefully they eventually do an awd non sport line version for ronniebarker.

I reset the tyre pressures, pressed the set button and got a screen with an option to set the pressures, that gives you an option to confirm all the pressures are correct.

Not quite as easy, but if you can see the coil springs under the front wheel arches there shouldn’t be anything clipped onto or between the coils. It might even have something fitted around the rod of the shock absorber, I’m not totally sure how they do them nowadays. If the blocks have been left on the suspension would be really hard. You will have to get down low in the dirt to see the rear springs.

Worth checking the pressures. Mine were all set at 2.7bar instead of 2.5bar. Interestingly the data sticker shows a spare tyre size and pressure, when I was told no spare wheel option was available….. Once the tyre pressure has been set in the monitor it will only alert if it detects a tyre may have lost pressure. It’s pretty dumb, you tell it the pressures are set correctly, and that’s all it knows, it doesn’t monitor the actual pressure. On my previous Octavia it used the abs sensors to detect a difference in wheel revolutions, I presume the Enyaq is the same as the valves don’t look like TPMS ones.

Mine has got 20” wheels, and like yours doesn’t have different ride settings. The ride is as firm as I expected for an suv type vehicle. In actual fact, it’s not as firm as I feared it might be. I would have been happier with 19”s but the car was already built with 20’s. The wheels/tyres on these cars are heavy, and the only suspension for that weight is the tyre itself, also the suspension for the car has to be capable of safely getting a thing the size of a van or 4x4 around corners at car speeds, so you’re always going to get a firm ride. I guess the answer is the more expensive model with different suspension settings. Having said that, it’s worth checking the tyre pressures are correct and the transport blocks have been removed. You wouldn’t be the first person to get a new car that hadn’t been prepared properly….

The fact is EVs are currently more expensive than the nearest petrol/diesel alternative. The option packs just mean they can advertise the basic car at a certain price. It’s like the original Octavias where they did a 1.4 mpi Classic spec, that virtually nobody would actually order. The good thing about the options packs is they have meant there actually is a basic model, which is what I wanted. To answer your points above, front sensors are around £500 extra and also come with a rear camera. The Knobless dash is actually ok. I went for a test drive with a lot of prejudice against these screens but actually get on with it. I have found the system difficult to understand and set up initially, but once the penny drops and you customise it to your needs it works well. The average 10 year old wouldn’t even have to think about. 20” tyres, it’s a big car therefore it will have big expensive tyres. I guess your Kodiaq will have 19” tyres which you can get on the Enyaq. What is the difference, £50 per tyre ? You can’t really be in the market for a £30k to £50k car and be concerned about a £180 tyre. If the spec you need puts the price over a realistic level for you, then as you say, your move to ev is a way off. I made the mistake of having a test drive out of interest and then scrapping my motoring plan for the next 5 years to go ev now. Nobody was a bigger petrol head than me, but the way these things drive is brilliant, and I’ve spent less on charging in a month than I would spend in a week on fuel in my 1.4 tsi Octavia.

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Everything I’ve read says “Max AC 3-phase rate: 11kW”, so I believe it is 3 phase capable but limited as you stated.