classic

If it is just updating the software then I think it’s expensive. I assumed there must be some hardware to it to justify the price as an option when new.

Should be fine then. My WiFi network actually only just shows one bar of signal strength on my phone where the Podpoint is, but it works ok. Where I actually wanted to put it was a bit hit and miss with the signal, so the installer recommended moving it. If the WiFi signal is lost or drops out, the pod point reverts to being on and available to charge so your car still charges just straight away rather than at the scheduled time.

You are welcome. I have the pod point schedule set to charge between 0030 and 1200, every day. I just plug the car in at night and the next day it’s charged. You can set the level of charge in the car or by using the Skoda app at any point before or after it has started charging. I have the pod point set to keep charging up to 1200 so if I need to put more charge in after I get up, or want to use the Aircon to pre cool or heat the car, it keeps the battery topped up to the percentage you set. Whichever one you get, make sure you’ve got a good WiFi signal where it’s going to be sited.

I wouldn’t claim to know much, if anything, about them. The only thing I’ve really learned is they aren’t actually chargers but E.V.S.E (electric vehicle supply equipment) and the charger is actually onboard the car. I went with pod point, mainly as that was the one pushed by Skoda. So far, so good. Installation went well and the charge scheduling with the pod point app works well ( the car scheduling is rubbish). From what I’ve read, I think the Zappi is a better set up for using with solar, but I’ve also read that even with solar, it makes more sense to charge an ev overnight on economy 7, and use solar to run washing machines or charge a home battery during the day etc. Theres a minefield of information out there, the more I read the less I seem to know !

You can customise the internal led lighting to your own choice or use some preset ones. I don’t know if this is on all models, but it is on the light and view pack.

I have the Light and View pack on my UK car. I didn’t want it, and wouldn’t have specified it, but it was on a car that was already built and I could get within a couple of weeks. I have to say they are the best headlights on any vehicle I’ve ever driven. The rear lights also light up more than the standard rear lights. The auto main beam system works well, you need to read the manual about the limitations of its use. The only thing that it struggles with is when it picks out the rear of a parked car with no lights on, facing the same way as your car, but on the opposite side of a very dark road (eg no streetlights). It will light up the reflectors of that parked car so brightly that it then thinks they are red lights and blacks out the beam around that car, which stops the reflection and so the Enyaq restores that part of the full beam and lights the reflectors up again. You get a situation where it flashes that part of the high beam on and off until you pass that parked car. For all I know it could be supposed to do this ? I haven’t driven an Enyaq with the standard led headlights, they could be just as good as the matrix ones just without the auto-dimming system.

This is its first winter

I’m not convinced that in the UK there’s any need for a heat pump. To quote the manufacturer “Efficiency: The power requirement for heating the interior at exterior temperatures of less than 0°C is up to 40% less than in a vehicle without an energy-efficient heat pump. Range: The reduced power requirement also reduces power consumption and thus increases battery capacity, which has a positive effect on the vehicle range. The exact nature of the effect on the vehicle range is also determined by your individual driving behaviour. As a general rule: if the average speed is lower, the influence of the heating system will be higher and thus the positive influence of the energy-efficient heat pump on the total vehicle range will also be higher.” I read that as it will use up to 40% less power than a vehicle without a heat pump. That’s up to 40% less of whatever power use is for heating and cooling, not an up to 40% reduction in total battery power used. And if you go slower the range will be higher……😮, ok !

Mine is a UK car, it has Bridgestone tyres with B-Seal and came with a repair kit (pump and sealant). There is also a space saver spare tyre size and pressure displayed on the tyre pressures sticker, so presumably a spare must be available in some markets ?

I’ve got the same anxiety, but haven’t yet done Cornwall or Isle of Skye in it 😬 I went to Switzerland, South of France and Italy in a 1.4 Octavia without a second thought but the same thing in an Enyaq, whilst clearly possible, will take a lot more planning. Having said that, there’s 50kW rapid charging in Fort William, and also on the Isle of Skye…

That’s the key to this whole ev thing. I do 300 to 500 miles a week depending what I’m doing. I would fill my Octavia up to the brim and know I could drive around all week and not need to refuel again. Really I only filled up so I didn’t have to stop off and refuel anywhere. This mindset held me back from getting an ev but the reality is, that if you have the ability to charge at home, it’s just not an issue. I charged my Enyaq 60 to 80% last night, I’ve done 130 miles today and got home with 20% left (which it says is 54 more miles). I’ve plugged it in and it will charge overnight back to 80% ready for another approx 150 miles tomorrow. Most days I do 60 to 70 miles so the range is a total non issue. If I did have a particularly long trip tomorrow I’d charge it to 100%.

Mine has Bridgestone Turanza Eco tyres, apparently developed for EVs. https://www.electrichybridvehicletechnology.com/news/manufacturing/bridgestone-creates-special-ev-eco-tires-for-solar-powered-electric-car-with-725km-range.html 20” wheels

Good video👍 How did you get the battery percentage to come up over the map in the bottom corner of the screen ?

I can smell the same rat as you. However I’ve just looked at the brochure and the basic drive package is £285 which gives you the drive mode selection. That doesn’t seem a lot more for, (presumably) more complicated dampers, extra wiring, different ecu, mode button etc. Maybe it is all already there and you pay extra for a button and enabling the software ? edit - I misread it and it’s £1070 more to get DCC edit 2 - Just looked at my car (no dcc) and there are no adjusting valves on the front struts or any wiring going to them.

Glad you got it sorted. Interesting if the cars with standard suspension actually have the adjustable suspension hardware, that is obviously all wired up if the dealer altered it, but no mode setting available to the driver. If that is the case the customer buying a lower spec car has in fact bought the hardware but can’t use it.

Sold.

Not yet, but if my 60 Enyaq goes 200 miles in summer with Aircon working, motorway speeds etc then even a 50% reduction for cold weather will still be 100 miles. From what I have read EVs in real cold countries (not the UK) lose 30 to 40% range in winter. I’m not even remotely concerned and I’m sure Jaytip will have no problems with their intended taxi use..

We’ll see. I predict no problem even in cold weather. 30 minutes on a 50kW rapid will put around 80 miles into it.

No problem whatsoever.

Hi, the longest single journey I’ve done is 183 miles. Started at 100% and an indicated range of 202 miles. Got back home 183 miles later with 8% remaining and an indicated range of 18 miles, so the cars initial estimate was only 1 mile out. That journey was a mix of urban, motorway and rural B roads. I did 70mph on motorways (probably 60 miles of the 183), 2 people on board boot full of stuff. That included 2 hours crawling through a traffic jam. I have found the range indicator, which everyone seems to call a guessometer, to be very accurate. I think it helps that I am the only driver, It started out wildly optimistic when I first got the car but it soon adapted to how I drive and use the car. I don’t drive it hard, but don’t hang around and I’m definitely not going to be sat at 56 with no heating or aircon, or slipstreaming lorries. I have the climate set to 20 C and just leave it to do its stuff pretty much all year round. They are definitely way more economical around town in stop start traffic.

Price dropped to £180

That’s good, thanks Perchede. This is the link to their Enya 60 info https://www.smarthomecharge.co.uk/vehicles/skoda/enyaq-iv-60/

Had a look at the label, and indeed it is 3 phase, 32A. Will test it out at some point. Therefore no need for @Cotswold to be looking at buying a separate 3 phase cable. However, these are the specs from ev database, which suggest it won’t charge faster on 3 phase….. https://ev-database.uk/car/1279/Skoda-Enyaq-iV-60#charge-table Type 2 (Mennekes - IEC 62196) Charging Point Max. Power Power Time Rate Wall Plug (2.3 kW) 230V / 1x10A 2.3 kW 29h45m 7 mph 1-phase 16A (3.7 kW) 230V / 1x16A 3.7 kW 18h30m 11 mph 1-phase 32A (7.4 kW) 230V / 1x31A 7.2 kW † 9h30m 22 mph 3-phase 16A (11 kW) 230V / 2x16A 7.2 kW † 9h30m 22 mph 3-phase 32A (22 kW) 230V / 2x16A 7.2 kW † 9h30m 22 mph † = Limited by on-board charger, vehicle cannot charge faster.

So, if I go on a 22kw public charger and use my normal type 2 cable the car will charge at 7.2kw and If I had a 3 phase cable it would charge at 11kw ? I don’t think I would bother for an extra 3.8kw 😬

I’ve got one of the cars but as yet haven’t used anything other than home charging, a 7kw ac charger at a car park, and one 150kw rapid. I haven’t had to use public chargers anywhere near as much as I thought as the actual range is really good. Looking on zap map I’ve seen some 22kw public chargers, I’ll give one a try if I’m nearby next week, but as far as I can see they have a tethered cable or you use the normal type 2 cable of the car. Do you need to additionally buy an actual 3 phase cable ? Excuse my lack of knowledge, I’m still learning something new every week with this ev thing.