classic

See the actual workshop manual is my advice 😬. Balance shafts on other engines I have worked on have had timing marks, a special tool or simply been aligned level with each other depending on the manufacturer - in this case it was obvious even one tooth out that they weren’t level (these were big engines though).

I don’t know the answer. I believe there may be special tools required to fit the rear main oil seal and crank position sensor. My only suggestion is to register with Erwin and download the workshop manual. Costs about 7€ to get 1 hour access and you can download as much as you like in that time. https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showLogin.do

Good luck, that is a big job to do. I remember when I was brave enough to do these things !

Bad points : 1. The noise from the front of your car which sounded like the engine destroying itself, was in fact the engine destroying itself. 2. You will have to replace the engine. Good points : 1. You’ve confirmed the oil level and oil pressure warning circuits and lamps are working. 2. You will get a new engine. Every cloud has a silver lining.

Zero….

I hope you get it sorted, there has to be something wrong to knock out flywheels so quickly which is why I suspect the new flywheels or clutches themselves could be bad.

If any of the injectors are leaking or injecting more or less than the others it will cause an imbalance between power strokes of the different cylinders which could cause uneven loads through the flywheel. Really your mechanic needs to go right back to basics checking compressions and the injectors, and probably the engine mountings and crankshaft pulley and if there’s excessive endfloat on the crank. The problem is at such high mileage it will be worn here and there….. Im not sure but I don’t think there is a single mass flywheel conversion for the 2.0 tdi.

I agree with MarkyG82. Possibly a misfire - injector, low compression on 1 or 2 cylinders, excessive crankshaft endfloat or maybe worn engine mounts. I wouldn’t discount the gearbox as you don’t know for sure that the second hand box hasn’t got the same issue as your old one, I’m guessing an input shaft problem. Maybe the replacement flywheels all have the same manufacturing defect if they are all the same make/supplier. Sorry not much help

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It’s part of it built into the cover, in fact if there’s a problem with the breather you have to get the whole cover.

I’ve had a similar issue on a non Skoda and fitted a complete new valve cover. It looked like the cover gasket/rubber seal was leaking but it was actually the cover itself. I believe on the 2.0 tdi engine there is a breather with a rubber diaphragm inside which can split so might be worth changing the whole thing at high mileage. They aren’t cheap though for a piece of plastic.

If They probably use TPS who supply VW group spares to the trade. The higher price would no doubt be to get the parts supplied from a Skoda dealer. You’ve basically found the hole in the dealer service plan that they didn’t want you to find. £32 a month service plan but extras like cam belt, aircon, brake pads etc are going to cost top dollar.

Either way, £1000 is too much.

The dreaded cam belt debate goes in circles unfortunately. At 25 k miles, I don’t think I would be rushing to get it done (see several previous threads to not give you a definitive answer…..). For what it’s worth price wise my local VW specialist charges £529 inc vat for the 1.5 tsi timing belt. https://lvsag.co.uk/services/service-repair/ https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=4232836423435450&set=pcb.4232844713434621

I recently purchased a 7 year old Octavia from a Skoda dealer. Very nice, one owner, full main dealer history. According to that history it had a pollen filter 15 months ago in which time the car had done 13000 miles. Decided to have a peep at it whilst fitting my dash cam. It looked pretty ancient and was clogged with leaves and debris, it either wasn’t done as per the history or they need changing every year. Got a new one anyway

If it has been repaired at least they used a new bonnet, and painted it like the factory does ! Run the reg number through hpi or car vertical. I just bought an Octavia 3, and looked at about 4 others seriously before choosing the one I got. Found previous cat N report on one and mileage discrepancy on another. You get 2 reports for about £15 https://www.carvertical.com/gb Edit : I used a discount code from a YouTube channel I watch, salvage rebuilds uk code SR10 gets 10% off.

Is it in eco mode ? I have found they are happier in normal or sport and it doesn’t seem to make much difference to mpg.

When I was an apprentice mechanic we were taught to always disconnect earth lead first and reconnect it last. The rationale was that it reduced the risk of shorting out the positive terminal directly to earth through your spanner either accidentally or carelessly. It is possible to weld a spanner to a decent bare metal earth like an engine and then explode the battery.

I justified the new ev based on my 20k plus miles per year so fuel saving was most of the monthly payment. Once the electricity cost (public rapid) was as much as putting petrol into a 45 mpg car then the numbers didn’t add up anymore and the time and inconvenience of rapid chargers started to grate. If you are out and back from a home charger on a reasonable tariff then it is great (although even that is now expensive). I previously had no pcp car payment, I bought 3 year old cars and ran them until 10 years old saving up over the 7 year ownership to buy the next car. The fact I could effectively cash out of the Enyaq finance, and get the money back I had used for my deposit to buy another car outright, was too good an opportunity to pass up. I think if you want an ev and the sums work then go for it. Longer journeys, and I went the length and breadth of the country in mine, are not straightforward though, the infrastructure isn’t great in some areas.

Not sure on the noise thing it sounds normal, they aren’t the quietest engines with the bonnet up. Give it back, you don’t like the noise, it only has one key and they won’t help you. Exercise your right to return it, they’ll start doing something then.

No worries. I read this thread this morning and your contra argument was hitting the nail on the head as to exactly why I’ve gone back, so I had to update on my sale asap ! Luckily I’ve had a good year out of the experience and the money I put into it is back for me to get a vehicle for “cash”. The government is going about a move to EVs in completely the wrong way. Banning new ice cars from 2030 won’t do anything except turn us into a version of Cuba where instead of 1950s and 60s cars there will be 2010 onwards vehicles being repaired and run for decades.

Think hard before trading in a decent ice car for an ev. In my opinion pre touchscreen/lane assist etc etc ice cars are going to become very valuable and personally I’m getting back on that train before it’s too far out of my station. Unfortunately I’m in a position as a private owner where the ev car I bought 16 months ago now costs considerably more to operate so the numbers don’t add up anymore. Somehow, it seems due to Covid, Putin and The Tory Government my income is being outstripped by inflation and I found myself in the bizarre situation where I have no idea what my electricity, gas and mortgage are going to be in 6 months but right now I do know my Enyaq is worth the same as I paid for it. This is despite having 25k on the clock. In fact it is worth thousands more than I paid for it, but it’s trade price was actually £500 more, so accounting for interest on the pcp Ive run it for over a year and walked away for practically nothing. Things as they are I decided to cash out and will be back in a fossil/ice asap. When I got it, with cheap electricity and occasional free charging at work, there was about £100 a month cost to me over running my petrol octavia which was closing in on 100k miles, I was happy to pay this as a premium for having a nice car which had no tailpipe emissions. Now, charging on rapids costs as much as buying fuel. Charging at home was still ok for me but my fixed energy deal ends in May 23 and will multiply by an unknown factor. Fixed mortgage deal ends next year as well… My leisure trips to Cornwall, The Lakes, Peak District etc became as expensive as driving a petrol car. Add into that mix that the Enyaq absolutely devoured a set of tyres in 25k miles, and they are not cheap - absolute best price was £165 each fitted. I’ve never got less than 40k out of car tyres and 16” are £75 for a reasonable make. Personally I had 2 bad experiences with charging. One coming out of Manchester where I wasted an hour finding an operating or unblocked charger. Stooging around an unfamiliar city typing postcodes into the sat nav isn’t fun. Second one was the ev’s Achilles heel - family emergency. Jump in with 80%, fast run to a hospital 70 miles away, run about to and from railway stations picking up relatives and suddenly at a very stressful point you find yourself Googling rapid chargers to find there are only 2 within 10 miles. One is broken and the other one occupied by a leaf whose driver informed me that she was needing 30 minutes and I was lucky with my timing as she’d waited for 2 previous cars to charge ! The infrastructure isn’t there yet, its one thing planning a journey on your sofa with a cup of tea and working out where in an ev charger desert like Devon or Cornwall you can get a charge but on the hoof it is hard work (and the Enyaq sat nav which supposedly finds the nearest charger is no help). A couple of weeks later and the Enyaq is in for the much anticipated software update. Got chatting with sales, and an offer is made which I decide to sleep on. Picked the car up and the update isn’t an improvement, so decided there and then to sell it back. So it’s gone. There’s clearly a demand for them, hence the good price, but I don’t get BIK. Beat my record for lowest percentage on the hospital run though 😬

It is a thinking game, but not sure on the fun ! Think hard before making the move, my Enyaq has gone, sold back to dealer. I’ll update on my reasons later, just going to work now, but the environment will have to wait for my contribution to its survival.

If you manually reset the service reminder it resets to 9,400 mile intervals. Personally I think 12 months/10k miles oil and filter is right for these engines. Depending on your point of view, you could leave it 18,000 miles and reset the reminder next time it comes up or stick with fixed. You do need to plug it in to set as variable.

I think just the flashing glow plug light means a general fault has been detected. There is a separate dpf light for dpf issues. Who knows, maybe a good blast down the road would blow some cobwebs out of it but I would get it straight back to where you just bought it from.