classic

I’d go with langers on the more to that story than meets the eye theory. I honestly don’t know if cruise control would react to a tyre blowing out, but it could only do 2 things, either disengage or stay activated. Either way it isn’t driving the car your son was. From the pictures the right front tyre looks flat but otherwise intact so it didn’t blow out and doesn’t look like it ran flat for very long if it all.

No they were non act, but I now own a vehicle with a 1.5 tsi act (dpca engine code) and the coolant pump looks the same to me. The pump drives off the exhaust camshaft. I also downloaded the Skoda workshop manual and followed that. If/probably when I need to change this act coolant pump I’ll download the manual but, looking at how the act works, I don’t think the procedure will be much different. As for the main cam belt, I’ve no intention of ever doing it or having it done unless it gets to 200,000 miles, at which point it probably wouldn’t be worth the cost, that subject has been done to death.

I’ve done two of these now on 1.4 tsi Octavias. They aren’t too bad to do but it’s easier with an extra pair of hands to hold the correct tension on the pump with a torque wrench whilst you tighten the water pump bolts.

You are absolutely correct. In fact the official Skoda workshop manual brake fluid change procedure includes the clutch slave cylinder but I very much doubt many dealers (or any garage !) actually do it. Whether or not it even needs doing at all, I don’t know, but most manufacturers seem to specify it as maintenance.

Good thing with this forum is the ignore user settings. Been way better for me since I discovered that. 😀

Not 5 years anymore

Excellent job. I’ve read how to do this out of interest and it was clear that a skilled mechanic with the correct tools can do this job despite some of the doomsday talk you get on here sometimes.

So did I, so got one. Early days with dsg for me but I really like the way it drives.

I have recently bought a 2022 Superb estate (1.5 tsi dsg) and whilst it won’t be a taxi I will be doing 20k miles a year in it. I do use taxis a lot as well and one of the firms around me has several Superbs including a few new ones in the last year, they have some manual and some dsg. I’d say they make an excellent taxi, loads of rear legroom and massive boot. Rooted is on a one man crusade against dsg, I based my choice on speaking to actual users who were going colossal mileages with no problems. There are plenty of things to go wrong with dsg if you’re unlucky, so a manual would be a safer bet for long term reliability but you are the person in the seat that has to drive it all day or all night long. There are also plenty of things to go wrong with dpf, adblue, dual mass flywheel etc. At least, unlike electric at the moment, there are established places that know how to fix them if they do fail. Hopefully a taxi driver on here with one will give some views.

What is the reason for bumping this Rooted ? You are like the Grim Reaper when it comes to dsg faults.

Still in place, just doing the same thing on a used Superb, took the pcp to get 2 years warranty, 2 x services, 2 x mot and 2 years European breakdown cover.

Is it just at idle ? Sounds a bit like the noise of a worn dual mass flywheel, I know the dsg petrols have them but not sure about manuals. I don’t know that the oil they use (0w20 ?) is necessarily thin, it just is able to be thinner at lower temps - someone will give chapter and verse on this…

Not a tactical thing to encourage second hand ev purchases then.

Owners of EVs are going to pay from 2025 as well I believe….

Looks like a really nice car 👍

SOLD. 😀

Joined the club. 👍

100,000 miles. Rolled over yesterday (nearly missed it !) 😀.

I actually did research how they work and what is involved to repair them, hence was happy to get one.

The thing is Rooted, if you look for ultimate reliability then you’ll never get anything except maybe a 20 year old Toyota Corolla base model with manual gearbox that has been dry stored from new ! My overall point to Diljit was that if you’re worried about dsg reliability then get a manual. I wouldn’t single out one type of dsg (2020 onwards) as worse than another.

Maybe so, but there’s a lot of 1.0 dsg across the various models.

Interesting, I’ve been on the lookout for one of the last Superbs as well. I was looking at various different engines and gearboxes and had an underlying vibe from threads on here that the 7 speed dry clutch was to be avoided. However I’ve ended up put pen to paper on a 1.5 dsg estate. I’m no longer in the trade but I was a VW Audi technician many years ago and I’ve read up as much as I can on dsg gearboxes and particularly the dry clutch version - which is the most common one - and I really can’t see any reason to avoid it, more than any other dsg, other than it is more likely to wear the clutches out sooner than a wet clutch version, but that’s really only an issue if you’re going into mileage well over 100 k. The system is basically 2 clutch plates, one each side of a central drive plate and from what I’ve seen if you drive one correctly it shouldn’t be any worse than a manual clutch. The dry clutch assembly looks reasonably straightforward to replace (obviously by someone who’s experienced at doing it) if it did wear out. There seem to issues with the gearboxes on earlier versions but the latest ones appear to be reliable. There’s definitely posters in the Octavia forum running taxis with high mileages on 7 speed dsg dry clutch boxes. I’m happy to be corrected (I’ve already bought one though !) but I’m hoping that they are actually ok 😬.

I don’t know or have access to the the part numbers unfortunately. I would be willing to bet that 90% of garages doing this job wouldn’t replace them, and would impact gun them on and off…. If it was me I would reuse them once and not lose a minutes sleep. But, this is the internet, so cue someone to tell me all about the properties of such and such steel bolts rated to x or y Newton metres etc etc. There is no fun in driveway repairs in winter. I’m with you on that, the older I get the less inclined I am to kneel down and lay under cars ! (except on a nice warm day when maybe I don’t need the car for a couple of days 😀.) My car is doing about 20k a year and I did a service early and got it MOTd in August so I get to service it and pre mot it myself in the summer and do any jobs. Then usually in Jan or Feb it needs another service which I get done at a vag specialist so it keeps some official service history going and gets a good look over by a pro on a ramp. If mine needed discs and pads now, I’d take it in and avoid the cold.

On my 2015 1.4 tsi the torque settings for the bolts holding the calliper to the carrier is 35 Nm. I got brembo discs and pads from Euro car parts and they came with new caliper bolts. The torque setting for the larger bolts that hold the carrier onto the wheel bearing housing are 90 Nm + 90 degrees. On mine there was no need to remove the carrier to get the disc off. I believe some 2017 onwards cars may have a different disc and that does need the carrier removing. The manual does state replace if removed, luckily I didn’t have to.