classic

There are so many real world variables. I can tell weight doesn’t make much difference as I’ve done the same journeys with just me or with 3 adult passengers and a full boot and the range achieved was practically the same. If you get a long downhill section it will barely use any energy to maintain 70, and with some regen you can go miles with range not dropping at all. One thing I always try and do is preheat or precool it 30 minutes before a long journey while plugged in. What I won’t do is drive slowly or tailgate lorries. I leave the Aircon on auto all year round.

I’ve got a roof box and a roof bike carrier. I can live with losing 30ish miles of range when using them. I often leave just the roof bars on (genuine Skoda) and they don’t seem to make any difference to the range. I only take them off as they slightly increase the noise, the car is so quiet without them.

What Langers2k says above and the answers in the other thread are the answers. It needs proper diagnosis. First shot of the parts cannon has at least probably eliminated all the plugs and coils as the problem. Try giving it some injector cleaner, Redex or similar, it’s the only relatively cheap option and easy to try. https://www.holtsauto.com/redex/

See the previous replies dude, you can’t diagnose and fix these as a novice, even that Motor Continental place you went to are guessing

I sympathise automass, but the problem you’ve got is that if you have to ask a garage to try something you have been told by 2 guys on an Internet forum, then you are at the wrong garage. The place you went to haven’t told you anything you didn’t already know from your own code reader, they’ve charged you £70 to plug their machine in and tell you a semi educated guess as to what the problem might be. You would be better off, in my opinion, asking on briskoda for a recommended specialist, who could be paid to do a proper diagnosis.

They haven’t diagnosed anything other than the car has recorded misfires on cylinders 1,2, and 3. They are just guessing that maybe it could be a plug or a coil. Who knows maybe it will fix it, it’s a £200 gamble… The fact that it is “misfiring” doesn’t mean it has an ignition fault. There could be a faulty sensor, wiring fault, bad fuel, low compression, carbon build up, vvt fault, air leak, literally dozens of possible things. Swapping coils is an low cost first try. If you can’t do this I’d be tempted to run the car a bit longer and let the fault develop, especially as the only issue is a flashing warning light.

Before you fire the parts cannon at it, I would try fabdavrav’s suggestion of swapping coils. You’ve identified a cylinder 3 misfire and if I understand the rest of the posts it hasn’t ever recorded a misfire on cylinder 4. Try swapping coils 3 and 4. If that moves the misfire from 3 to 4 then you’ve identified the faulty coil and just replace that.

Hi, and welcome. I don’t have acc or crystal face. I have had a warning triangle and message saying “front assist not available”, and something about travel assist availability during snow/ice but it actually cleared itself, I guess the snow fell off. If the snow is so bad that the grill is getting covered then the road markings are probably getting obscured so the acc would struggle anyway, you wouldn’t want a sudden steering or braking intervention on icy surfaces. Luckily in England we get very few really bad weather days. Link to the owners manual: https://digital-manual.skoda-auto.com/w/en_GB/show/99904436763ed9adac1445257dcfa3ee_5_en_GB?query=acc#ID_f9711c99415377ef0ad95f09469fcfc2-99904436763ed9adac1445257dcfa3ee-en-GB

Car is back online again.

I deleted and reloaded the app which is now version 5.0 I have logged back into it and the charge screen and cabin heat both show the same status as when it failed with the previous version. The screen in the car has a green spinning wheel of death when I start it, which spins for exactly 1 minute then I get the message “unable to load connection status”. Looks like a visit to the dealer is required.

My car has been offline since 19th Jan. Called dealer, waited 2 days for a call back, nothing….called Skoda customer service and was told there is a problem with the app and should be back within 48 hours. Still doesn’t work, anyone else having issues ?

The usual mess then ! (Don’t forget …we recommend an Aircon service every 2 years sir….) The Enyaq brochure states service required every 2 years, with no mileage quoted. My interpretation of the brochure is that every 2 years they will inspect it, change the brake fluid and the pollen filter.

Easy peasy then. Pollen filter, top up screen wash, check tyres, visually inspect everything and the service is done. Plus the obligatory Brake fluid change every 2 years. The thing is with these cars, you’re going to actually want any software updates the dealer does and not risk any get out clauses with the 8 year/100000 mile battery warranty.

Thanks for posting this, it’s very interesting. Everything I’ve read suggests these cars don’t preheat the battery. During the cold weather, I have been preheating the cabin on mine about 10 minutes before leaving home. It will defrost all the windows and warm up the interior nicely in that time. However I’ve noticed the energy consumption for the first 10 to 15 minutes driving is quite high (around 0.9 to 1.9 miles/kWh), which I presume is it using the ptc heater to warm up the battery. After watching the Skoda video which advised setting a departure time to preheat the battery, and looking at your diagram, I changed the routine today (-1.0c) and started the cabin heating 30 minutes before I was due to leave whilst the car was still connected to my podpoint. Result - the consumption stayed above 2 miles/kWh and was generally around 2.5.

Interesting, as the video is presented by the Head of Project Management, and a Battery Development Engineer from Skoda, yet the comments section is made up of people who have tested actual cars with obd scanners/apps saying they don’t do what is claimed…

I will now be getting a spare wheel for mine. I’ll source a suitable wheel and put together a toolkit with jack, or just buy an ID4 spare from a VW dealer. Travelled about 1000 miles this week with 2 trips over the Pennines. No range anxiety, even in atrocious conditions on the M62 with 10% battery I was quite happy I’d reach my planned charger. But No Spare Anxiety is now officially a thing for me ! I don’t want to sit waiting for a recovery truck that may or may not be able to fit a new tyre (at some ridiculous price no doubt), or have to be towed home or to a tyre place in the nearest town that may not even have the rare size tyres that are fitted.

I can’t help with your specific question, but can say the owners manual online or otherwise is overly complex in some areas and totally lacking in others, so I sympathise with what you’ve found (or not found !). I have the basic cruise and speed limiter. I found a button whilst playing with the settings menus, which enables some kind of predictive speed limiter. I turned it on and now if I use the speed limiter it will auto set to the speed limit of the road. It will speed up and slow down according to the limit on the road just like acc but obviously with me pressing the accelerator. I can’t find any reference to it in the manuals, and for the life of me, I couldn’t say now how to get to that button again in the car ! Sounds like you’ve possibly found the way to achieve auto B mode by activating acc in B mode, then deactivating acc again ?

Indeed. In the end I did 92 miles and got home with 52% remaining and 93 miles estimated range left.

Charged to 100% overnight as I’ll probably be doing at least 100 miles today, possibly more. Outside temp is 4c. And the car is estimating 170 miles, compared to 200 miles in summer.

You can guarantee someone who doesn’t know what they are doing will electrocute themselves working on an electric car. Having said that a 10 gallon tank of fuel is reasonably dangerous and people have managed to do themselves harm on plenty of non electric cars….

Whoever does the mechanical work will have to be qualified, I have no doubt any repairers wanting to be approved for accident repairs on new VW group vehicles will already have had to train staff accordingly. Under the bonnet of an Enyaq looks way easier to repair and a lot less vital stuff to potentially write it off (ie engine/gearbox) than petrol/diesel cars. If one takes a hit hard enough to damage the battery it’s almost certainly a write off, as would most petrol/diesels be if they took serious damage in the centre/floor area.

I think if you were to drive from Lands End to John O Groats with 2 Enyaq 60’s, one with a heat pump and one without, both cars would probably stop at the same places to recharge. The difference would be the heat pump car would arrive at the charger with a slightly higher battery percentage and so take less time to charge. The heat pump car would therefore reach John O Groats sooner than the standard one. If you are doing very long journeys regularly I guess that could mean something.

Only time will tell….. I can only say that I'm not wishing I had got one, and am quite happy with the standard system. Heat pump equipped cars should get more range in cold conditions but from what I’ve read the gains are fairly marginal.

The long trips do take more thought/planning with an electric car. It put me off for a long time and it’s clearly a major reason keeping people in petrol and diesels. I recently had a weekend in Manchester, planned everything out for chargers, all went to plan and when I got there, saw there was a rapid charger on the road outside our hotel which I hadn’t seen on any of the apps, so I actually could have just driven there without a care… I am 7000 miles into the experience now and can’t imagine going back to fossil power. When I think back I was really close to not getting the Enyaq, and keeping my trusty Octavia, for all the reasons you’ve described.

I’m no expert, just a guy on a forum, but I would say it is a combination of a few things, but mainly the colder weather. In 3 weeks, how many miles has it done, with how many different drivers ? How many charges have you done, and how many were to 100% ? I’m not asking for the answers but I think, from what I’ve read, they will all be affecting the displayed range. I guess with your car being new there is a lot going on for the battery management system especially as the UK temperatures fell rapidly and have now gone up again. I believe the range calculation is mostly based on the energy use/driving style over the previous 60 miles. The 80% charge range you are seeing is very similar to mine, if that’s any reassurance that it isn’t a fault. Ive found the real world figures given on ev database to be fairly accurate. https://ev-database.uk/car/1279/Skoda-Enyaq-iV-60