hhcd80

Ah I see. I thought it was different manufacturers codes. Good to know then 👍

Skoda has 1810 files, marked as "2022/23" for ECE 1 - 7 and ECE A1. At least if I put in my VIN in the portal. ECE 1 https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_1810_EU1_202222.zip ECE 2 https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_1810_EU2_202222.zip ECE 3 https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_1810_EU3_202222.zip ECE 4 https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_1810_EU_DL1_202222.zip ECE 5 https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_1810_EU_DL2_202222.zip ECE 6 https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_1810_EU_DL3_202222.zip ECE 7 https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_1810_EU_DL4_202222.zip ECE A1 https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_1810_EU_A1_202222.zip

Thanks for this. Is there any further updates available?

Little update. Finally purchased a Viofo A129 Duo Plus and spent about 3 hours installing the hardwire kit. Had some problems trying to loosen the bolt for the ground point and spent most of the time trying to figure out a cable routing that was as neat as possible but without removing bits of interior trim (I didn't want to risk setting off the airbags in the A pillar). The final installation would not be considered professional but it is neat enough that I can live with it and it has the advantage of being easy to remove if I have to for any reason.

@Honkkis Are you able to so pictures of the exact seal you had to deal with? Having similar problems with whistling from the door and might want to check if I need a similar remedy. @MuskUp Do you know where the vent is in the boot? I am considering looking at that as well.

Well, quick update. The mechanic had a look at the pads and tracked down which one was making the racket. One of the front pads is wearing down but most importantly, still safe to drive. Given how busy I am, I'm probably just going to leave it until it's next full service unless the noise gets worse in which case it would be a safety issue that needs dealing with sooner anyway. So in conclusion, depending on your circumstances if you have squeaky brakes, it's either just the pads wearing down or someone installed suspect non-genuine pads.

Thanks for that. Took the plunge and paid for the access to Erwin. Got a full list of the build codes and there is some interesting info on there.

Thanks for letting us know. I am going to be speaking to a local mechanic I know and trust for some advice one my problems. Ramp, the warranty company Cinch use, basically said I can go to any Vat registered garage but looking at the paperwork, it does seem I will be spending a lot of time to ultimately pay for replacement parts anyway as the brakes look like the same ones fitted from the factory and are probably just nearing the end of their service life. That or they just need a clean, I hope.

Just out of curiosity, how do you find the full build codes for your car, if the label in the manual /spare wheel well doesn't list them?

Haven't got the camera and hardwire kit yet, but from some further research, the best switched outlet would be the rear windscreen wiper position while the best permanent voltage for the dashcam'sparking mode would be either the 12 volt socket position or the one for the car infotainment head unit. Anyone else want to correct me or provide alternative advice on that, please do.

Yes that is the case at least for RHD cars. Be advised it is fiddly to remove and reattach.

I work mostly night shifts and usually arrive at work when most garages are shutting. It's fine. I'll work something out eventually. Worst case scenario, I'll call off work if needed.

@Slick2097Thanks for the update. I am going to be very busy using the car for commuting to work for the next few weeks. My only longish window off is going to outside the Warranty window in June so I might just live with it until I can get it seen to. Also, a Halfords Auto Centre is closer to me than any official Skoda dealership so I am not filled with confidence in where Cinch will send me to. Do you know what brand of brake pads where fitted that caused the squeaking and more importantly, what brand RRG fitted that counts as genuine Skoda parts? Might be a silly question, but I have a VRS which has uprated brakes and from what I have read on these forums, they might be a different brand from the factory as a result of the higher spec. For reference, the car came fitted with what looks like Brembo pads on the front and TRW's on the rear, if the branding on them is to be believed. Also read mixed reviews about Brembo pads on here but not sure what exactly my VRS came fitted with out of the factory in the first place. Worst comes to worst, I know of some local mechanics who have experience with Skoda's I can speak to, along with an indie VAG specialist mechanic who is a bit out of the way, but knows the cars inside out.

If it hasn't been made obvious already, got my Octavia VRS via Cinch. In my case, there was no brake squeak on delivery. I only really noticed it happening later on. This isn't really a Cinch discussing thread, but long story short, my experience was OK but not great. Delayed delivery meant I would have to reconsider using them, although to be fair to Cinch, their staff were always polite and professional to me and it was a better buying experience than a certain major chain of car dealerships that cover most of Scotland that I've had dealings with before. From previous experience in other cars I've owned, squeaky brakes usually mean the pads and/or discs are getting to the end of their service life. Not noticed any problems stopping the car but I will probably get it fixed at some point nearer it's annual service or if braking performance really degrades, which ever occurs first. I get the feeling Cinch will be more expensive than literally any other option if the work requires a consumable part.

Keep us updated. I'm having low speed squeaking as well. Suspect it's the pads wearing out and those are not covered by the Cinch warranty if I read the documentation correctly. Might just pay a mechanic to deal with the problem instead.

Average of 45-47 MPG, 25 minute drive with majority on a motorway averaging 60 MPH in my 66 Plate VRS. About the same as my old car, a Vauxhall Insignia.

Sorry I should've been more clear. I meant "wasted" energy from an actual exhaust system engineered to make some decent noise as an alternative to the actuator. Even then I guess there isn't much energy expended but like I said I tend not to be too bothered about the sound of the engine as I would be more likely to be listening to music, podcasts or the radio.

I thought the battery drain protection on the hardwire kit I'm using would prevent though? Alternatives for a safe permanent power feed for the parking mode would be appreciated. Also if the headlight is problematic, it does make me wonder why the last owner put a fuse tap there originally and left it in. Given what you said I'll probably remove it and replace it with a tap off the rear wiper for the switched feed.

Probably means you are OK but someone else can confirm. As for me I'm lucky. The tank does say "Mit Silikat" but a local VW Group independent specialist mechanic looked at it and said there was no sign of the bag anywhere so I guess the last owner had it removed before it found it's way into my hands.

OK thanks. So to sum up so far. Rear wiper (Or possibly the left headlight as originally attached) fuse position would be a suitable switched voltages. And what about a permanent one for the parking mode? I've studied the fusebox and am not sure. Maybe the fuse position for the 12 volt power socket since that seems to be permanently on anyway?

Better alternative? An uprated exhaust from the start maybe? Mind you, there comes a point where the loud sound is presumably just wasted energy so I would rather the engine's efforts are concentrated in more power and fuel efficiency even if it came at the cost of the engine sounding rubbish, but that is my opinion 🤣

Thanks. That answers one part of the question. Anyone suggest what the most reliable permanent and ignition on voltages are on the 66 plate VRS TDI I have? I read some owners having a few problems with some dashcams and the stop-start system.

Yeah that is the intention. The Viofo hardwire kit I mentioned has the "magic box" you mentioned but I am not sure where the "ACC" cable for it would go on the fusebox. Any insight in that would be appreciated.

How would that affect a parking mode? Most dashcams need to basically be turned off for that to work.

Not necessarily looking to update immediately but can anyone confirm what infotainment system I have, if there is an update and if there is any point updating it either from here or paying for one from VAG updates?