Frankenfurter

Just spoke to Julian. He said to reach out to Darren at German Auto Dynamics. He knows Julian. Julian said he could potentially provide the files and do the work remotely via Darren. I imagine you might need to pay a little extra given there are two professionals required to do it. Alternatively you could do a road trip but the fuel would likely cost more than looping in Darren and Julian to deliver it. Your gateway will need to be a 3Q0 type (instead of 5Q0 type). If it's 5Q0 you'll need to buy the right 3Q0 part (about $200) and also have that installed and updated. Julian could do that in person but it could be too hard to do that remotely too. If your car is 2018+ it's more likely you'll have the 3Q0 gateway already. if you send your vin to Julian he can tell you what you have. I've PM'd you his facebook account. https://germanautodynamics.com.au/

Are you based in Sydney? If so Julian Doyle will do this for you for a small fee. It requires ODIS/VCP. Completely eliminates the bounciness and gives you two settings below soft and above sport. Best mod for the car i've done and i use it daily. It basically adapts the latest DCC module firmware to our cars and inputs the Arteon or Passat dataset from 2020+, which has much better damping settings. I rode in a Superb 206 with Eibachs and the DCC mod yesterday and it was very comfortable. I've been toying with the idea of Eibachs too.

Yeah ok. Have you had the DCC slider mod done yet? That transformed the ride in mine. Also if you want your rear to sit a little higher you can fit these apparently. Should give you about 6.5mm extra height in the rears. Audi TT rear spring seat 8J0512149.

Did you manage to do the DCC calibration since the install? It will ride like garbage if you haven't.

Springs sag at different rates. a few mm here and there in the suspension normally results in some variance. Could be a range of things but it's not uncommon. Very keen to see how much drop you get front and back. What year is your car?

I'm still stock ride height with DCC. I know that others with ET35 and 245/35/20 are running Eibachs with DCC and without rubbing. I'm actually considering a set of Eibachs with some 6.5mm Audi spring spacers at the back and 5mm (yet to be found) up front to split the difference on the drop in ride height.

They’re RS6 replicas. I actually saw someone else on here with them and fell in love. They’re like AUD 1,000 for a set and have held up incredibly well over some savage pot holes this year. Seem to be quite strong. Specs are 20x8.5 et35 with 245/35/20 tyres. Ride is still very comfy too. Stock 19s are a 40 profile and these are a 35 so not a big change.

It’s 2017 model with the exhaust flaps. No, I just put the vRS badge on from Kopacek for the extra 20 horsepower! I also recently did a chrome delete on it with wrap (by a professional) and some small plasti dip on the badges and chrome grille strips.

When something is lopsided on my car it bugs me endlessly. As a result I’ve been wringing my hands about what to do with one side of my Superb 206/280 exhaust tips being 7mm lower than the other. Apparently it’s always the left side too 😂. After spending a few minutes with my head under the rear end hiding from my kids I realized a marine grade snail clip around the exhaust hanger was the perfect answer! Two minutes later, perfect symmetry and infinitely adjustable for about $2. (Just don’t ask me if the vRS badge is straight…🤔)

Thanks from all the responses. As a follow on question, has anyone had experience with adding spring seats from other models? I saw in this thread: The Audi TT spring seats for the rear offer and extra 6.5mm of ride height (OE part number: 8J0512149). Does anyone know if similar spring seats exist for the front? I'm constantly loading the rear so this appeals to me but clawing back a couple of mm up front would also be nice having seen some of the settles ride heights with Eibach.

Interesting about the stance. Do you have any photos of that low nose stance you could share?

I'm running the following setup on my Superb 206/280 4x4: Stock Springs wheels ET35 20x8.5 Tyres 245/35/20 This is the effect of my current setup from stock. While the poke is +15.4mm it is roughly equivalent to running the stock 19s with 10-12mm spacers on the stock wheels when you consider the 245/35 is spread over a slightly wider wheel. I'm considering trying the Eibach Pro Kit E10-79-012-04-22, which would likely give me about a 20-25mm drop considering my car's springs have settled over the last 5 years. My concern or perhaps question is: Will there be a risk of scrubbing on spring compression? I'd love to hear from anyone who has a Superb 4x4 with the Eibach kit and especially from people who either run spacers on the stock wheels or who also run 20s.

Good spot, hope my typo didn't through anyone off.

Nice score! In my eyes the curved SKODA sticker only works if the curve exactly matches the contour of the calliper itself. I'll be upgrading mine to some brembos soon and i'm thinking something flat and clean like this. If too long could lose the logo...

Yeah man! It's Julian Doyle: https://www.facebook.com/doylejul Hit him up on messenger or if you don't have facebook let me know and I'll PM you his number. Tell him Mark sent you.

Ok, so I've given it a try and happy to report back that even the non progressive rack can feel much better. With my friendly neighbourhood ODIS/VCP expert's help we tried out a few different steering assistance maps for the Superb using VCP. My 2017 Superb 206/280 has the rack part number 5Q0909144T, which is not progressive and in stock form in the Superb feels way too soft for my liking. The hope was to make the sport setting actually feel firm. The rack profiles have "Sport" and "Normal" settings. Using VCP the rack part and software numbers showed possible steering maps from the Audi A3 and Skoda Octavia. The A3 has maps from 1-4 and the Octavia from 3-8. We tested a few of them and learned that the lower number = lower levels of steering assistance (firmer). The two firmest (Octavia 3 and A3 1) were tried around the block and faster on the way home: Octavia Level 3 Sport: Extremely firm. Tested up to 50kmh and would be at the upper limit of what I’d like. Didn’t test it faster but would likely be too firm at 100kmh. Normal: Barely softer than Sport mode and not comfortable, which my wife would hate. Audi A3 Level 1 Sport: At stationary and <10kmh slightly firmer than stock Superb but still very easy to move. From 20-60kmh the steering firms right up and feels exactly what I’d expect Sport to be. Gives good resistance right off centre and makes it feel less vague. At 100kmh feels very purposeful but not overly heavy. Normal: Slightly firmer than Comfort was in the stock Superb but still very soft. Wife would give it the thumbs up. I think I’m happy with the A3 Level 1 map for now. All meaningful driving now feels pretty much ideal in terms of wheel resistance. There may be some joy to be found in Octavia Level 4 but will sit with this for now and see how I feel.

You may know this already but just in case: It’ll be easier for you if you find someone local with ODIS or VCP to try out the steering profiles. It’s a steep and expensive learning curve that can really mess up your car if you make a mistake. Do a VCDS scan to find your steering rack part number, then your friendly local Odis/ VCP expert will be able to find other profile options for you to try. My approach will be to find any performance options with the same rack that might have less steering assist output (stiffer) or failing that, a lighter car that may also be set up to provide less assist. There may also be people who have done this on drive.ru so worth a look. if you get the SuperPro or Audi TTS control arms you can play with extra negative camber too. An extra -1 should feel good but not unevenly wear your tyres or tram line much.

I wasn’t sure about this but there’s a superb down the road that had one installed and it seemed to make a difference, not sure if it also had an alignment though. It does appear that as the flex is taken out of the suspension joints and chassis there is a clearer response in the wheel, especially just off center.

I’m trying out a few profile alternatives on the 144T rack next week using VCP. Hopefully some of the profiles on cars lighter than the superb will provide less steering assist and give it a firmer feel across the board. I’m not desperate for a shorter ratio, ~2.7-2.8 turns to lock is fast enough for a car that never sees the track or autocross. has anyone tried out different toe settings on the alignment?

For point 4 I meant to say level of assistance rather than actual changes to the ratio itself.

Keep in mind this is the front tower strut bar and not the front sway bar. BUT if you do upgrade the rear sway bar as I did, the softness of the front will be much more obvious. DCC reduces it somewhat for short quick steering adjustments but in longer or harder corners the front still feels soft. I tried upgrading to a Superpro golf r front sway bar but it doesn’t fit around my cross member. I did manage to fit a Mk7 golf r OEM front sway bar which is ~1mm thicker than my stock 206TSI superb front sway bar and it does feel improved. Car is flatter when I chuck it into a corner. apparently the Passat 206TSI has no problem with the Superpro front sway bar. Also the Passat 206TSI actually has stiffer sway bars front and rear than the superb, which just goes to show how soft they made the big Super-B! I could probably also add a front and rear sway bar and the DCC slider mod to the list too. Anything that reduces the damping or flex in the suspension components will also help feedback. if I was you I’d do both sway bars. Normally MQB understeer so like a pig but the Passat gte and superb iV can oversteer because of the battery weight. Doing both with adjustable bars will help you get a neutral balance and complete the weight transfer in corners faster. id also look at that extra caster from the front LCA rear bushing. If you can live with the front wheel being slightly further forward it will make a noticeable improvement. id also recommend the DCC slider mod to everyone because it’s just awesome and gives you Sport++ which doesn’t come in the superb at all and only comes in 2020+ Passat.

I recently drove a FWD superb with one before and after and there was a noticeable difference. I didn’t expect it because of how rigid the front of MQB is but I stood corrected. May be because of the track width and wheelbase of the superb and the forces it places on the chassis through corners.

I’ve been exploring this. VAG has built the superb to eliminate NVH and in doing so have eliminated all steering feel. FYI Extra caster increases dynamic camber gain in corners and makes the entire range of the steering stiffer because of angle change. Many of the below will increase NVH but IMO only enough to provide enough feedback. Here are my discoveries: 1. Superpro lower control arms. These give you an extra 1 degree of caster. Gives better feel. 2. Alternatively. Front Lower control arm rear bushings can give you 0.5-1 degree of caster and are much cheaper than whole LCAs. 3. Front tower strut brace can improve steering feel and feedback. 4. ECU steering parameter import from other MQB cars. This controls resistance and ratio/speed of the progressive electronic steering rack. You can import the parameters using ODIS or VCP from cars that use the same rack part number. My Superb has part 5Q0909144T, which is shared by some RS3 and other models. This would make a big change. I'm aiming to do the front strut brace and ECU steering parameter upgrades as I’m running 20 inch wheels and 35 profile tyres so I can’t afford any extra caster. Caster gain will push the front wheels forward in the wheel well. I’ve also replaced the front lCA bushings with stiffer stock caster bushings. This also made a noticeable improvement.

Honestly I have no idea. If i was you I would find a workshop manual, remove yours, find OEM part number and try and source a direct replacement. Not many people will have direct experience with this but you may find some retrofit threads in here.

I recall seeing one of these fitted in a thread and it shows a lot of internals in the light. I think the suggestion was to put some black plastic mesh on the back before fitting for the best appearance. here’s the thread: