Frankenfurter

Also note that there are two versions of the Mk3 Superb Virtual Cockpit, these relate to the immobilizer version being pre or post 2019. The pre 2019 VC is not usable with a post 2019 immobilizer and vice versa.

If you get stuck there is a guy here in Australia that has been doing it remotely. Scroll up to JR's post for technical requirements.

If you have the ability to return the seats if they don't fit then go for it! Even if the seat rails are different, chances are you can swap them over from your existing seats. I'd bet they fit in the front at least. Rear is less likely but if both are black leather then normal Superb rears will be fine. I'd be keen to understand if this works.

If anyone is looking for an option that is just a bit higher than the Eibach or any other lowering springs on DCC suspension I've found myself a solution that seems to fit both front and back. Rear strut: Audi TT Mk2 rear spring pads part 8J0512149 lifts the car 7.5mm Front Strut: Whiteline W71473 fits on the front strut above the spring and lifts it by 5mm (it's advertised as 6mm but is in fact closer to 5mm) Will post pictures of the results in a week or so once fitted. The slight rear bias should be nice for when I load the car so it doesn't sag so much. Here is a pic of the front spring packer fitted to the upper part of the front strut.

I'm 99% sure the hardware issue is only for 2017 and under cars. The 2020 will almost certainly have the right hardware. I have a 2017 Superb 206/280 and had to swap the part to the newer version.

Can anyone tell me what the part numbers are on the following components in the Kodiaq vRS? - Soundaktor module - Soundaktor front speaker unit (interior) - Soundaktor rear unit (exterior located under rear bumper) I’m exploring retrofit upturns. Thanks!

Sending you a PM with contact details…

That's good that you have a local dealer. That counts for a lot as Stage 3 normally needs tweaking of the OTS map to finish it off so you don't want to be running all over the place. That first dyno is actually your humble IS20 tuned for e85! Would just need a downpipe, intercooler and HPFP. It's a shame APR stopped development and sale of their stage 1 E85 products after the EA888.2. Judging by the numbers the IS20 guys are getting on corn it would have eaten into their stage 3 sales.

What if I told you there was a much cheaper option available to you that could get you this sort of performance... vs the APR figures on the Stage 3 package...

Any reason for choosing this particular turbo? Looking at e85? I've seen a few threads where people have gone from a stage 2 IS38 to the 6054 and ended up with slower or nearly identical quarter mile times on 98RON. Obviously it'd be a big gain from an IS20 but it's not cheap compared to buying a used IS38 and having a new CHRA put in it. Could also look at an LM440 or EQT Vortex but similar issues there too. It might be a bit different driving the fronts only but i'd be wary of losing low end torque too, especially on a tuned IS20. When I switched from a stage 2 TD04 to a VF52 on previous WRX (comparable to IS20 to IS38 in size difference) I had the sads from losing my insta-spool around town.

I don't know enough or have VCP/ODIS myself but in my case the expert who helped me identified my hardware and software and searched for others cars with the interior close function that used the same hardware and simply uploaded those datasets/parameters. I don't know where you'd find the parameters other than perhaps using ODIS to search and download the OEM data.

Yeah, the coding will depend on the hardware versions in your car but for sure it can be done in a 2019. I’ve had it done on my 2017. see here. you’ll need to find someone who does ODIS/VCP coding near you but it’s not particularly difficult for them to do the coding. Once you find someone just show them this post and they’ll be able to do it for you or figure it out.

To follow up on this so far, the error was associated with only one cylinder and the chain tensioner ranges were within spec so we followed the suggested fault finding and tried changing the solenoid 06E103697AE. So far so good. After 1 week the error has not returned and the engine has not destroyed itself. 👍🏽🤞🏽

More usefully, you can code the earlier cars so that you can close the boot using the button next to the gear stick. Search the forum for that one or talk to your friendly local ODIS/VCP guru.

I did mine, used a wheel from a wrecked Kodiaq Sportline and just re used the original airbag. Works perfectly! There is a 1cm gap at the back/top of the wheel where the airbag cover doesn’t match up but you can’t see it. Except when you look down from the top which is never.

I had a rear interior rattle in mine, turned out to be loose cover for the subwoofer. Foam tape fixed it.

I drove the Superb (206/280TSI) yesterday and randomly got an “ACC: Error” pop up on the dash. Popped into the mechanic who scanned the car and had: P11A200 Cam shift actuator A Cylinder 1 Range/Performance The car drives normally and only anomaly has been occasional stumble on cold start. Anyone experienced this or familiar with it? If it’s the cam shift actuator, is that a big fix? I’ve had some feedback that it may relate to the timing being slightly out due to chain guides etc and am concerned about driving the car given the consequences of the chain slipping. Going back in to check camshaft adjustment adaptation at idle with a scan tool early next week.

Just to clarify, those of us in Australia getting this mod done by Julian on our Skoda Superbs have had gateway datasets based off of the edited Skoda Superb files. For example my file was dataset 3Q0907530AC_Superb_3.xml, which had to be custom edited. Before the correct file was created we tried a few generic files from other cars and they could not even be successfully uploaded, let alone function. The DCC controller had the 2020 Passat 206tsi or Arteon data uploaded in place of the Superb dataset.

hey that’s great you got all that stuff sorted! Such a great set of upgrades! I’ve not done a downpipe on mine yet but if yours is rattling I suggest getting it on a hoist and having a mechanic rev it while they check under. It’s common that exhaust parts are a bit off as the mqb platform has lots of little variations and the mounts on the engine and exhaust all shift over time. You might need to ditch some heat shielding or fix an exhaust hanger angle.

Anyone cleared the bugs out of this space? Can it be done easily? My lane assist seems more reluctant to find lane markings now.

Shocks are ultimately consumable so don’t feel too bad. Maybe treat yourself to the DCC slider mod and wave goodbye to the floaty boat bouncing in normal and comfort modes. That’ll put a smile on your face.

The problem with "misting" is that is it constant. My 2017 Superb misted itself dry and the shocks creaked like an old timber floor. Get the part number of the shock you need and have a look online. Used/rebuilt DCC shocks can be had for <GBP 150 per corner. I'm currently running two used shocks up front on my car and they're pretty good. Otherwise if you buy new Borsehung does an OEM equivalent with a 4 year warranty for ~GBP 350 a corner. The shocks shouldn't affect the mileage. Perhaps a turbo, fouled spark plugs, dirty air filter, coil packs or injectors need replacing?

In my experience VAG brands have a tendency to put off leaking shocks until they are completely destroyed. They may try on the "Oh, it's just weeping" thing on you. Might have to push for a replacement if you don't have a failed MOT. Broken shocks will often creak during articulation or clunk over potholes so if you mentioned that it may help your case.

I couldn't resist the temptation to measure my 2017 206tsi wagon on stock springs. 370mm front and 365 rear. 370mm at the front is pretty safe. i can drive in and out of all sorts of crap driveways and not scrape.

When you say measured hub to guard, do you mean you have measured from the middle of the wheel (middle of the small centre cap) to the highest part of the wheel arch?