Frankenfurter

My wireless charger works fine. I need to use a slim case in my iPhone 13 for it to fit properly but it’s good. Not sure of the part number but this might be it AU $206.16 | For Superb 3 wireless charging MQB Skoda Superb Wireless charging UPDATE KIT 5NA 980 611 https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMDjN76

The small square ones fit in the space on top of the 12v socket nicely. Get your low profile USB-A to USB-C cables on AliExpress and use some velcro tape etc to affix it. The cover slides closed on top of the unit.

That sounds very cool. I've not heard of that function with the MIB unit.

I suggest going and speaking to a car audio professional about your options. A suitcase sub under the seat might get you some bass if that’s all you need but if you want something really nice you’ll likely need a full solution with speakers, cable, amp and installation which in my opinion would be worth it. have a look at this thread…. And this one: https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/jl-audio-custom-system.9298777/ The Canton uses a 12 channel ~700w amp/system which gives it incredible range and warmth. Many people will often go for fewer channels and less power just to get something that will slap out some RnB or dance music better. Depends what you like and want. The superb has locations for 11 speakers and a sub in the rear left cubby.

The tablet holders with iPads keeps my kids happy. 19 Euro from Kopacek. I just run charging cables to the center console for super long trips. They don’t work in sports line seats tho… http://www.kopacek.com/Skoda/SUPERB-III/Smart-holder-original-Skoda-Autoas-product The head tests aren’t huge so the screens wouldn’t be either if you wanted to build it in.

Julin Doyle https://www.facebook.com/doylejul

Just thought I'd give a brief update. Whilst very happy with the ride quality following the mod, I thought it might be beneficial to conduct a DCC calibration given the car now uses a new dataset in the DCC module. Used a hoist today to do that using VCDS. Result is it feels like the increased firmness has calmed slightly and the compression damping over small bumps is now smoothed giving a slightly less busy ride in all modes. The overall feeling of the three traditional settings is still slightly firmer and much more composed with the bounding, floaty couch feeling of Comfort mode now very much tidied up. After a speed bump at 20kmh in comfort there is no more oscillation after the bump has passed. Sport ++ has smoothed slightly and is exactly what i was hoping for. I will no longer be looking for firmer stock springs after this. Even if you don't care for the 15 levels of adjustment, my experience is that updating the dataset to the 2020+ Passat data has fixed the floaty oscillation in comfort and normal modes. I'd strongly recommend doing the DCC calibration after this mod. Even if this is just my own anecdotal experience. It's easy to do and in my opinion quite beneficial. DCC calibration procedure using VCDS: Adaptation (basic settings) should be the same process on any car. Vehicle on jacks or hoist with full droop (all four wheels hanging), Module 14 Damping Electronics... Security Access 20103 (not required for my case, VCDS had already input code). Go into Basic Settings and Select the calibration from the dropdown menu and press Go. It will only run if the level sensors are in the proper range. The field should say "Completed Successfully" or something similar and that's it. It essentially zero's the suspension like when you zero a scale and it took literally 1 second to complete on my car. NOTE: Your car may drop down to the ground and look like it's now an SUV. The DCC valves will be fully closed and may hold the car up very high. This was quite shocking and I initially thought, %$^& what have i done! Don't worry about that, the car returns to normal height as soon as you put it into gear and roll away.

Ok, with some serious help it's been done! Here is the overall sequence of events that was encountered and followed: Original gateway was 5Q0. Most examples seem to use the 3Q0 gateway so I went and got one to follow the same path. Swapped to 3Q0907530C gateway with software 4287. Removed Component Protection and restored FEC using ODIS online. Upgraded gateway software to 3Q0907530AC sw 4388 with ODIS Engineering. Applied dataset 3Q0907530AC_Superb_3.xml Extracted data from the XML file and modified to add 15 increment slider using the 'Full Example for DCC Index C with slider' on the GitHub page using the addresses given in the drive2 link and pulling the hex values from the GitHub example. Note that the data for 'remember after reset' doesn't line up with the drive2 example (nor does the slider example, but this is more obvious from the github example as the data is just 0-15) so I copied the values from the GitHub example manually from 0x2E0-0x2EF. Applied modified FPA data using ODIS Engineering. Flashed DCC controller to 5Q0907376C and applied Passat dataset. One unexpected benefit has been that Normal and Comfort setting ranges are no longer as bouncy/floaty over bumps and dips. The difference is substantial and while I haven't recalibrated the DCC yet (new front struts going in next week) the overall feel is more planted and overall firmer. The Sport++ level feels like coilover damping with the compression and rebound damping turned up very stiff. My happy place seems to be as per the photo at the moment but will likely change after new front struts and recalibration next week. This should be taken in the context of the Superb, which has quite floaty and soft DCC settings in Comfort and even Normal.

depends on the options that play nice with the regen but typically you don’t want to reduce brake size but rather use lighter calipers and rotors. Cast slider brake calipers are cheap and very heavy so things like Cupra 4 pot Brembos can save 3kg per caliper on 340mm VAG brakes for example. Two piece rotors can be much lighter while maintaining the size. Lightweight wheels and dropping from 19 to 17-18 inches would save a bunch of weight too. these things aren’t cheap but they maintain their value and could be sold easily when the car is disposed of.

This. If you find a good one they will build it up with memory foam to fit you specifically. I run my superb seat full low but with the front of the seat lifted quite a bit. Lifting the front of the seat takes some pressure off the lower back. Re seat compatibility: check the width of the Octavia seat. As long as it’s close they should physically fit. Might need to swap the frame it sits on. Also consider a Passat or Arteon seat. finally, try getting into a sportline for a loan car for a long drive. The seats hug a lot more. You could buy a whole sports line interior from Skoda or a wrecker. Might have some trouble with coding in seat memory but as long as the seat gets power you can manually adjust it. Small price to pay for a good back.

There used to be a cottage industry adding cells and packs to early Priuses and even Leaf’s in simpler times. Problem you have is the cars system manages the battery smartly in a defined set of cells such balancing the rate of charging, the health of cells and so on, so it’s not as simple as a modular addition. The software would need to be fundamentally changed. The cost would be prohibitive. The weight penalty would be substantial. You’ve actually already had the best answer above to achieve your range goal. Weight reduction. A study with Tesla cars showed a 10% weight reduction resulting in >13% range increase. More details here: https://www.teslasiliconvalley.com/blog//ev-weight-impact-on-range If you’re serious about extending range you should quantify and cost all the potential weight savings, evaluate and execute. Wheels, brakes, auxiliary battery, subframes, control arms, suspension, removable items, etc can save you 50-150kg or potentially more and are readily reversible when you come to sell the car, unlike a modified battery. The benefit of reducing unsprung rotational mass in the wheels, tyres and discs is significant and the upgrades are readily available.

5Q0411105GM front springs and 3Q0511115AL rear springs. Pretty soft for such a large car.

Thanks for that. Do you happen to know who the OEM is for stock springs? Is it Monroe (who also make the DCC shocks)? Here in Australia we have KYB and Eibach with a local presence. The Eibach’s appear to have the shortest spring lengths with defined wire diameter so looks like a good option. I’m also looking into parts directly from VW. I wish it was possible to search which make and model specs actually used these parts so I could just go to a wrecker.

Thanks @Carlston. I’ll shop these springs and report back with the results. Already running a Hardrace 25.4mm (hollow) rear sway bar and the improvement was immense and almost entirely removed body roll during day to day driving. That was one of the softest aftermarket sway bar options.

Thank you. I’m also not interested in dropping the car too low. I actually recently changed the wheel and tyre combination to 245/35R20 tyre with 20x8,5" ET35 as I was gifted the rims used from a friend. Originally wanted to stick with 19s but am quite happy with the comfort and the roads near me are quite good. The rims fill the arches out nicely although the combo does lift the car almost 9mm through increased tyre diameter which has inadvertently helped avoid scraping in our steep driveway. Speedometer error has been accounted for and was about 1%. Really just trying to keep the current aesthetic in terms of ride height. This is the car unloaded. those Goodyear tyre’s look really good. I’ll be looking at those for our Tiguan. I’m currently running Khumo PA51 AS on the Skoda which are helpful getting around at the snow and are a nice soft compound.

It was bizarre. Just sitting there idling and all of a sudden poof! A white cloud of smoke streams out. I called my mechanic who handles a fair bit of VW service and told him the coolant reservoir hose was ****ing boiling coolant and he literally said “let me guess, the return hose pipe snapped off”. I took a closer look at the broken pieces once it cooled and the plastic does look pretty thin there. Probably more importantly the pinch clamp that holds it on was sitting about 10mm back from the end of the black hose towards the end of the plastic nipple which is where it is weakest. Anyway, was simple and cheap to fix. New reservoir was delivered to the shop by the end of the day and the hose now has a screw clamp right at the base where it’s strongest.

Thanks again! Really appreciated!

I was sitting in the car idling on a work call when a huge white plume exploded out from under the bonnet yesterday. Turns out the nipple on the return pipe for the coolant reservoir snapped off under pressure covering everything in pink coolant. So anyway, a few zip ties and liters of water later and we were off and driving again to the mechanics shop leaving a trail of drops behind us. Apparently this is quite common in MQB cars. All fixed now… BUT in other news the front left DCC shock, which was inspected by Skoda Gold Coast for the final warranty service only ~8 weeks ago, was inspected and has apparently “misted” out so much fluid that it no longer provides ANY rebound damping. 2017 build with 65,000km. Fortunately I’ve picked up a good used part but not happy about that.

Ok, so at the risk of abusing Carlston’s incredible knowledge, my VIN has been decided and the rear coils on my Superb are 3Q0 511 115 AL. On autodoc this appears to have a wire diameter of 12.5mm Are there any slightly stiffer options around that ride height? Perhaps something around 13mm or even 13.25mm? For context, I often carry lots of gear and I'm trying to keep a slight rear bias to the spring rate and rear-sway bar (upgraded to a 25.4mm hollow rear sway so far which has been adequate but could be further improved) to try and achieve more neutral cornering and reduce the understeer. I’ve come from a nose heavy WRX with heavy suspension modification to enable rotation on track. Not looking for that extreme outcome here but am conscious of the impact these changes will provide in an awd car and the benefits it brings when pushed.

Thanks @Carlston, much appreciated!

Thank you. I'll dive into that forum thread.

Has anyone considered trying to size up the springs from the Arteon R Estate/Combi/Wagon? It is by my understanding the heaviest of the MQB cars at ~1700kg and the only full fat performance model on the MQB in this size class and format. That being the case, it's reasonable to hope that it would have the highest spring rate at a stock ride height. I've looked through the parts list on LLL Parts at a 2021 Arteon with DCC ( Rear axle https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/vw/RDW/ART/828/5/511/511010) (Front axle https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/vw/RDW/ART/828/4/411/411010) and there are common springs for both front and rear between the Arteon and Superb Mk3. The Front DCC shocks are common with the Superb while the rears differ by suffix. There's a few questions that come out of this: - Is the setup I'm looking at on LLL Parts for the 2021 Arteon inclusive of the Ateon R? - If so, what are the actual part numbers for the Arteon R coils? - Once identified, how do the dimensions of the Arteon R springs relate to what we can already see for the Superb and is it actually an improvement in terms of spring rate while maintaining a similar ride height?

I've had a look at the LLL parts page for my model, a 2017 Superb 206/280 4x4 estate with DCC to try and understand the different options and was shocked to see 25 different front coil options. My front coils have the blue and grey dots and rears have no apparent markings. Couple of questions... Does @Carlstonor anyone else know what the stiffest (highest spring rate) part numbers would be for front and rear for my car or Do I already have the highest available stock spring rate? Interested in standard or OEM Sportline ride height if there's an option there. Any help much appreciated.

Just to clarify, I had to manually enter the destination into both Google Maps and Skoda Navigation. They do not communicate the destination to each other. Doing this would not really be all that helpful or necessarily result in the same route being guided. This was more of a test to show that even with destinations loaded and active in both, the two would still function and show at the same time. These are the key screen shots from the clip and shows the screens separately in two images but they are indeed displaying simultaneously. I pan between them in the clip.

Bonus clip of the same destination loaded into both Google Maps and Skoda Nav with both showing simultaneously. Skoda nav destination line is pale green and not so easy to see on the video. IMG_3126.MOV