Dooge

Thanks, that's what I thought. I've got the replacement bolts too as I think they are original and it's on 93k now.

Possibly for non VRS or smaller discs, but having had it all apart I can't see how you would get the new ones over the hub.

Thanks, I shall do that as long as they are in working condition...nothing suggests otherwise.

Hey all, I've recently changed all 4 discs and pads which showed both rear disc guards are now more reminiscent of something made by British Leyland after one UK winter. Subsequently, after knocking one changing the disc it ended up having to be broken off. I've bought replacements and new bolts however I know I have to remove the rear hub bearings to get them on. I've seen basic videos of how to do it and I don't think I'll struggle to remove the bearing but, if the bearings are ok can they be reused? I presume best practice is to replace but at £40-50 a side for non OE and £80+ for OE if I don't need to replace it I won't. If I can re-use, clean and grease the axle before refitting? Thanks!

Definitely, the new tyres help but it'll be far more about the weight. On one of my previous cars, the Clio 197, I changed the stock alloys for 200 Cup alloys which saved 1kg a corner and you could definitely tell the difference. I've always been a big believer in reducing unsprung mass but I could never justify spending lots to get lightweight alloys for what is essentially a daily commuter. These are a good in between option I reckon, bit lighter than stock, bit wider and sit better in the arches due to that width.

I also ordered new genuine rear brake disc guards, yet to fit them as I am debating whether to get new rear hub bearings.

So, a friend offered me his alloys, recently refurbished and with 4 brand new Michelin PS4's for £800... I said yes. Genuine Golf Pretoria's. I bought some ST-DZX 12mm hubcentric spacers for the rear and I really like the look. Many thanks to @vrs'burks for the recommendation! The car feels a bit more sprightly on them, I guess because of the new tyres and because they are a bit lighter than the Extremes. I do also know that they are a bit more fragile than stock however most of the roads I drive are reasonably good.

I don't think that's too bad. You could try and get a mobile sprayer to blend it in and do a 'local' repair. Won't be as much as a proper job.

If it helps, the boot buttons are fitted to a variety of VAG cars. New they are expensive for genuine, I paid £20 for a second hand part labelled as an Audi part. Once the large inside plastic panel is off its easy to pry out the button and get a part number.

Most bodyshops would prefer to do most of the bonnet to 'blend' it backwards, and the bumper and wings too so theres no issue with colour matching. I think the scratches are too deep to 'touch up' and would be easily noticeable if you used a chipstick or similar. Id imagine a half decent bodyshop should charge £200-300 for this. Depending on how far into Cornwall you are, I can recommend a place in Plymouth but theres always a good bodyshop locally if you ask around. I hope you get it sorted!

I am pretty sure its correct. Seal would definitly sit above the plastic otherwise it would let water in.

I had the same issue when buying from Autodoc recently, even with cross referencing part numbers. Alot of what it said would fit was wrong when checking specs. I settled on ATE rust resistant discs front and rear and TRW pads, cost me £300 delivered which I thought was good considering. I did check Euro's and ECP but wasnt happy with knowing they were correct. I've read too many posts saying cheap Brembo arnt worth touching which Euros/ECP supply alot of. I wouldnt buy cheap or unknown discs either. The other option is going to a local TPS that supply VAG parts, some will serve to the public, some are trade only. FYI if the rears are solid they are 272mm, if they are vented they will be 310mm. I am pretty sure all facelift cars have 310mm except the 245 which has larger again I believe? If you decide to change the brakes yourself, when you do the rears its alot easier to whip out the rear shock absorbers to get good leverage to undo the triple square bolts that hold the caliper carriers on. Overall, it was a relatively easy job considering mine were 5 years old/45k on them.

The only thing I can think is that if its not working, it just means you get full oil pressure. This is not an issue, in fact it could aid longevity for the overall engine Id imagine. Full oil pressure wont be anything excessive and from what I understand having read up a little about it, the valve only drops pressure under certain revs/throttle position/load to assist in fuel economy. For this reason, Id imagine its not something worth flagging up on the dash as its unlikely to ever cause any damage.

Oh I will, just intrigued as to whether this is something that contibutes to engine failure across different platforms/makes, especially as Id imagine its an industry standard and has been for a number of years.

Thanks Pete, the front interior lights work fine, thats frustrating. How far back is the switch wiring? I didnt have a good look tbh as I didnt have alot of time when I looked at it but will take it all apart when I can. I didnt see anything else obvious in terms of damage and I can only assume the damage has been caused by someone changing the pollen filter before.

Hey all, My glovebox light has never worked, I never explored it until I changed the pollen filter recently and noticed one of the wires was cut. After temporarily rejoining it and testing, it still didnt work. I tried a known working bulb and light unit from the boot and this didnt work either so I suspect the fuse has gone. Its likely to be a mini fuse but as everything else appears to be working, I am guessing its on its own fuse. Can someome tell me which one it is and which fusebox location? Thanks, Doug

I cant recommend it as I havent done it, but Id consider a backbox delete. Its unlikely to make it drony as the resonator changes the sound and deleting that would make it drone, the backbox is likely to reduce volume and with the OPF it will be quiet. Also, if done correctly you should be able to sleeve the original pipes to refit the stock backbox if you ever want to go back to stock. Id imagine someone has done this before, maybe worth Youtubing it?

Do you think the engine would benefit long term of the pressure switch actually not working and having full pressure all the time? As you stated it would only be a bar or two of pressure difference. I suppose if these engines were known to wear bearings or have oil starvation issues then it might be something to consider.

The issue is that when new parts are installed, pressure on old ones increases. Some will be fine and some will then wear our or present with faults. The bushes for the arms will be worn but you might find inner and outer tie rods to be ok. I had to replace my outer tie rods due to having to cut the old ones off when changing suspension components but the inners have been fine and havent needed touching.

@TeebsVRS did you get this sorted? I dont have the same problem but definitely intrigued by the idea that alot of manufacturers drop oil pressure in 'light duties' to aid economy of the engine. A friend with a E63 AMG mentioned that its a known issue for wear of engines due to lower oil pressure. I'm thinking ours are the same, without much mechanical knowledge and reading what @TheClient has said it seems this control valve reduces oil pressure in light driving/low revs, is that correct?

I'd do lower ball joint so you know it's all done too. I'd stick to OEM topmounts and bearings, I went Febi-Bilstein and have constant clicking lock to lock, as had another member on the forum.

FYI when I did my pre-facelift VRS rears (272mm) I found it FAR easier removing the shock absorber than trying to undo the 2 M14 triple square bolts holding the caliper in. Also showed me how knackered the shocks were!

Luke, have you any photos of the 15mm spacers as they are? The ST ones look interesting and I can't find pics of the actual product.

I should add that the car passed its MOT with no issues, and they changed the brake fluid at the same time. They made no mention of anything being problematic from the service either. I have a few things I want to add onto the existing list: -Leon Cupra DSG gearknob to replace the flaky chrome one. -Rear brake dust protectors. -Kufatec LED adaptors and stock VAG LED interior light units. -DSG inline thermostat. -Facelift rear lights and adaptors. Replace Topmount bolt - Done Brake fluid change - Done Front ball joints on both sides. Shorter bolts for rear ARB droplinks. Replacement rear ARB droplinks. Replacement B4 rear shocks. MK7 GTi rear ARB. I do feel like I never get to the bottom of the list! Anyone else feeling like cars hitting 100k are just money pits? 😏

I did discover that the dust protector on both sides was trying to masquerade as a collander! I also found out that my shock absorbers are totally knackered, barely returning so they may have to be done sooner rather than later.