Dooge

Hey all, I have seen awhile ago that some on Facebook user groups seem to have fitted alloy lower arms and an alloy subframe from equivalent MQB chassis Audi's. Unfortunately I can't find the post and group for looking. I did fit Passat alloy arms on my MK6 Golf and it made a nice difference to the feeling of the handling. Has anyone done this? If so do you have part numbers and any negatives to doing this? Did you use second hand or new parts? Thanks in advance!

No real progress but plan to carry on with the suspension once the 97th day of January is done! After fitting the 5mm front spacers I have noticed decreased turn in due to what I believe to be the increase in positive scrub radius. I did fit them for aesthetics really, once I put 20mm on the rear the fronts looked a bit hidden but it drove quite well with just the rears. As previously mentioned I think 8mm or even 10mm fronts would make it look equal with the rear, but I think this would be detrimental to handling. I have debated trying the extenders on the rear (would have to remove the OEM dirt covers) and trying 12mm or 15mm rear spacers only, this would give me the aesthetics and hopefully keep the positive rear end, which eventually would be made better with an uprated ARB. On top of this, Im looking at buying both the front lower ball joints. There's still alot I want to do on top of this and I'm determined to get it done this year! Who else is splashing out on there's?

I have fitted 5mm front and 20mm rear but have found the front has decreased turn in due to the increase in positive scrub radius. I did it for aesthetics really, once I put 20mm on the rear the fronts looked a bit hidden but it drove quite well and other than the lowering was similar spec to a facelift car. I fitted some hub extenders I bought from eBay to the front to run the 5mm safely with extended bolts (+10mm over stock bolts) but for the front and rear to be about the same place in the arches the front needs 8mm spacers. This is only measuring roughly edge of wheel to edge of arch, not track width. I have debated trying the extenders on the rear (would have to remove the OEM dirt covers) and trying 12mm or 15mm rear spacers only, this would give me the aesthetics and hopefully keep the positive rear end, which eventually would be made better with an uprated ARB.

Hi Krof, sorry to say I haven't. I've not done anything for on the car really other than front spacers which made the handling worse. Please let me know if you go for it, I'll probably still look at the GTi version but intrigued to see what it handles like.

If you go back box delete Id be interested to hear what it sounds like. Its something I flirt with the idea of but classically everytime I think about it something else comes up! You are right, full systems are expensive and I'm not really sure they are not droney either. I like that it's quiet enough on the whole and as you said, with the lacking sound proofing it would be amplified.

A back box delete or smaller rear back boxes might be the ticket for you. A centre resonator delete is common but makes it sound farty and raspy and may cause some drone. I seem to remember reading that the 230 has a slightly different exhaust to a 220 in that it's actually a tad noisier but I might be wrong. My 220 is certainly quiet!

These symptoms were a problem of the older generations of cars (MK2 Octavia, MK5 and MK6 Golf), it happened because the main board burnt out but would turn on manually. If that is it, some have fixed the boards with varied results or a new light unit I think is in excess of £200. I replaced mine on my mk6 Golf before the Octavia and it's a DIY job. If you do repair/replace LED bulbs draw less power so make it less likely to burn out as quickly.

For the sake of £25 I'd just get it done. Its unlikely to be anything else if it works from the key fob and they are a common problem. Easy to change over as well, the harder bit is getting the large plastic panel back on.

I can't say for the diesel as I have a petrol, it's a bit more sluggish in auto than when using the paddles but you only notice the difference when using manual mode. They are a bit laggy when it's freezing too, but this is to be expected. Any manual I've had has always felt a bit clunky. The flexibility it offers is fantastic, there is more variation between eco/normal/VRS, you have manual via paddles or almost like sequential shifting via the gearstick. Just make sure for the wet clutch variation that it's been serviced every 40k to keep it running sweet.

I did also manage to buy and fit some new bulbs, some Osram Xenarc Cool Blue Intense. Slightly more blue when they are cold but warm up to a nice white quickly. I also ever so slightly adjusted my beam up which has been a little low since lowering the car. The proper way is through VCDS but as I don't have access to it I adjusted them through the plastic Allen key screws on top. I fitted them before we went to visit Longleat and friends in Bath, 2.5 hours to Bath, then 45 minutes journey to Longleat and 2.5 hours back to Plymouth. This ensured a good burn in time. I am suitably impressed, better than the knackered originals and a bit cheaper than the Nightbreakers.

Although it's an improvement it's not as good as I was expecting. 8mm spacers are probably on the cards to get the front looking the same as the back. I know this probably isn't the best for handling but from factory they are not as sharp as smaller hot hatches.

I managed to grab some time between the rubbish weather, work and dad duty to fit the front spacers. I thought it could be a bit of a pain fitting the hub extenders but it was very easy, bit of scrap wood and a rubber mallet. I was not sure if 5mm spacers would be enough so I ordered longer bolts than needed to ensure it's safe enough if I went for 8mm spacers.

Ah, interesting, I've not seen or heard of that before, that isn't tensioner related then? Yeh, I was not a happy bunny! Originally quoted as £850 before the extras. That seems to be car ownership though.

Timing chain problems were far more likely on the Gen 1 EA888 but nothing stopping any of the later ones having issues. Did you notice any engine rattle at startup for a second or two beforehand? Its not awful, I paid £1300 for timing chain replacement, cam magnets, and a part with a oil mesh filter which had failed (was explained to me a long time ago) plus service on my old mk6 GTi, that was 2019.

Unfortunately there's been no progress on this, literally every living related cost has gone skyward leaving little cash for fun things. Just have to save more though. I have ordered some 5mm spacers for the front wheels and with winter and my unsociable shifts I am planning on getting some new D3S bulbs. Any opinions on Osram Xenarc cool blue intense? After Christmas I will be looking to get all discs and pads changed along with fluid change. Maybe next year I'll get around to the rear suspension...

That is looking great! Many good mods and stuff that makes a difference. Dogbone mount is definitely on my mod list and loving those paddle extensions. I've been looking at HG Motorsport ones but not sure if they are too big. Any issues with the Febi/Bilstein topmount bearings? I've got an annoying clicking lock to lock since fitting them, but they were part of alot of other bits fitted at the same time.

I can't help with the problem, but if it's completed 110k miles before a DSG service there could be gearbox problems in the mix. DSG are advised to be serviced every 40k but of course, that depends on its type of driving beforehand. I'd look at getting soot values measured for the DPF. It's not unusual for DPFs to start to fail and clog causing consistent regenerations, poor fuel economy and running. You might find that the oxygen sensor has failed in relation to this. I am no mechanic but they are well known for DPF issues.

Just realised myself! 🤦‍♂️

As Sasha has said, I also recommend 235/35/19's. I replaced all of my 225 profile tyres on my 19s with 235, these fit absoluately fine and offer a little more protection. Likewise, they were £35ish cheaper a tyre than the 225 equivalent which saved a chunk. Definitely not worth cheaping out on tyres IMO. Alot of the Facebook groups have people with 235 profile tyres as well, I've never seen anyone have any issues with either fitting or running them.

Unfortunately It's not just about the offset, you are looking at wheels 1 inch width wider than your extremes. Offset is measured in millimetres (ET), width is measured in inches (J) so 1 inch wider plus the difference in offset. Extremes are 7.5j (7.5 inches) and the ones you are 8.5j (8.5 inches) 1 inch is 25.4 millimetres. So half of this is 12.7mm + the offset difference of 22mm equals 34.7mm or almost 35mm difference total. Obviously this is from a stock specifications of extreme wheel. With spacers you can say rear would add an extra 15mm (14.7mm to be accurate) over your current setup and front and extra 20mm (19.7mm to be accurate)

I chucked the specs into WillTheyFit.com, you would end up with 35mm poke! Unless you are adding plastic arch extensions (please don't) then they will be massively too wide with that offset. Standard Extremes are offset 51 and 7.5j wide. Also, you'd need spigot rings as most Audi rims are for 66.6mm diameter hubs.

If you are deciding to replace, upgrading to fancier Alloy wishbones are of benefit. Saving weight and more corrosion resistant too but it won't be something Skoda dealers will do. Alot of the higher end of the VAG group have them including Audi's. Anything that runs a MQB chassis should fit but worth doing your research.

Not sure but damn interested! I suspect there's all kinds of magic that can be done with VCDS if you know what you are doing.

There is a place called DSG Paddles which supply aftermarket DSG knobs, one of which looks quite good. Or, get one from another model.

Not a great photo of mine, but I went through this same scenario. I settled on Racingline 20mm springs. I think it's great and how it should be from the factory. I prefer the 'rake' you mentioned and in retrospect would have gone for the Eibach springs as above, this would keep the gap looking uniform front to back. The other option is 40mm H&R but these will be stiffer again. As great as they look, I reckon they would make it slightly impractical and scrape more. With even slight lowering springs you WILL have a stiffer ride but I don't think it's awful. I combined mine with Bilstein B4s but I think if you went for a fancier shock it would retain more of its comfort whilst being supportive and handle well. Bare in mind that springs are a small part of the suspension. My shocks were heavily corroded and leaking at 88k so to get the best out of it, prepare to change alot of it. I had to cut off the track rod ends and ARB droplinks due to corrosion. I ended up replacing shocks, springs, topmounts, ARB droplinks, outer track rod ends and bottom ball joints. As for spacers, on the pre-facelift 20mm at back makes it sit nicely (the facelift has a 19mm wider rear track so you are not upsetting handling) Loads put 15mm on front but to me this looks daft and far too much. At a push I would go 6mm, 5mm or 3mm and this would give you that uniformity with the rear in terms of how it sits in the arches. FYI the photo of mine below shows springs and just rear 20mm spacers, I want to fit front spacers (and tried 15mm and didn't like them) but haven't decided on a size yet. Im tempted by 3mm so as not to ruin the scrub radius too much and avoid having too little hub to mount the wheel on. Just remember than you can't fit any less than 17mm spacers on rear and 13mm on front for hubcentric due to the depth of the hub. If you go smaller, you'll have to fit non hubcentric spacers and anything over 5mm I would add hub extenders (eBay or Awesome GTi do them for £30ish) and longer bolts regardless. Mine has 19s but 235 profile so as the guys above have mentioned, maybe a bit more height than 225 too. Comfort is fine, handling is great for the weight of the car for fast road use. I definitely wouldn't want it any stiffer!