SpaceWalrus

I got mine done at Timpsons. Cost about £160 if I remember rightly. The guy didn't have the correct key in stock so he ordered it in for me, couple days later I went down there and it took him about an hour. I'm sure there are other companies that do them but I've never had any issues with Timpsons.

No clue I'm afraid, I suggest try it and found out, if it doesn't work then I'm not sure what adaptations need to be made

Here it is: 09 Cent electronics: 16 - Security Access - enter 31347 10 - Adaptations - ENG141651-ENG115754 -- ZV allgemein - Funk bei Klemme 15 ein - Set to active I'm glad you brought this up as it's something I was planning to do on some Octavias in my company's fleet, and had forgotten the coding.

There is a setting to change in VCDS to allow the vehicle to be locked with (presumably the spare) key when the engine is running, if you wanted to be able to remove the key and lock the doors with the engine running, you'd have to install a dedicated runlock system, and make the change in VCDS. I did it for my car a while back as I have a runlock system but can't find the post, will keep looking and add it here when found.

Just thinking, do you know who did the original conversion to an ambulance? Or at least the ambulance service it came from? Companies that do conversions sometimes put a little sticker under the bonnet or in the doorframe. If you can find the company then might be worth popping them an email or giving them a ring to ask if they’d know, otherwise if you only know the ambulance service, I can find out who did the conversion for them.

Perhaps it would be worth taking the steering column apart and checking that the wires from the ignition switch haven’t been messed with as part of the run lock system

I never actually ended up adding the spare battery, I just added a small switch that toggled two relays that fed the control unit, and set up the run lock so that any time I wasn’t driving and required the system to be on, I could engage the run lock. Whenever I wasn’t using the system, the switch remained off so it would draw any power

The battery may be too low to run the starter, but charged enough to run the lights. There may be wiring with the ignition in regards to the run lock system (the ability to remove the key and lock the car with the engine still running) but that shouldn’t put a break in the ignition wiring, at least, it doesn’t on my setup

Have you tried charging or jump starting the chassis battery (that’s the one in the engine bay) it might of died over the years. Check what voltage you get between the terminals Emergency vehicles tend to have a split charger between the chassis and auxiliary batteries, this can connect to the batteries to start the car off of the auxiliary battery when the chassis battery has been depleted. You might have to replace your chassis battery if it’s too degraded, as emergency vehicle wiring systems love to kill lead acid batteries with constant draining.

For your car you’d want this: https://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/hex-v2.php Scroll to the bottom of the page and you can order directly from Ross-Tech or a distributor

It probably wouldn’t work, or at the very least set the alarm off as there’s no authentication

Here's the bodywork workshop manuals if it helps https://vwts.ru/sk_octavia3_5e.html#kuzov

Ah, that probably makes life easier! From this website http://www.evo-blr.com/evo-pro-skoda-octavia-5e-premium-car-entertainment-options-octavia-5e/#:~:text=Skoda have installed large 6.5,speakers and a 1.5″ tweeter. it suggests that the 165mm would be the correct size, but I again would advise measuring yourself.

I'd take them out and measure, as its the only way you're going to be 100% sure what size you need. I'd rather not have speakers and wait for delivery than I would deal with a returns process, especially given that you're in NZ, and I can't see any dealers listed on the focal page there, so unless you've got a local supplier you know of, that would probably take quite a while

I'm wondering if that's unique to the vRS, or if it's standard with vehicles that come with cornering fogs from the factory. I enabled my fogs as cornering lights with VCDS, and just assumed that it would be the same for vehicles that came with cornering lights.

A bit late to the party, but as far as I'm aware the fog lights were the cornering lights? Unless on vRS it's different?

My Apple CarPlay likes to play up every 2/3 times I get in the car and plug my phone in. Sometimes it will try to connect and "smart"link will keep failing to connect and retrying, which is normally fixed by holding down the power button on the infotainment and rebooting it. Alternatively, it'll connect to my phone, but then google maps and/or spotify will just decide to not be anymore. Google likes to just put me in the middle of nothingness and not take any command, Spotify will allow you to open playlists and the like, but if you try to play a song it will just sit there and do nothing. This is normally fixed by unplugging the phone, waiting 10 seconds and plugging it back it, although sometimes a reboot of the infotainment is required. I've tried this on multiple iPhones, with the same symptoms, so is it just Carplay being sh*te? or is it Smartlink or something else in the infotainment that needs a reset/firmware update? Attached is the system info TIA

My Apple CarPlay likes to play up every 2/3 times I get in the car and plug my phone in. Sometimes it will try to connect and "smart"link will keep failing to connect and retrying, which is normally fixed by holding down the power button on the infotainment and rebooting it. Alternatively, it'll connect to my phone, but then google maps and/or spotify will just decide to not be anymore. Google likes to just put me in the middle of nothingness and not take any command, Spotify will allow you to open playlists and the like, but if you try to play a song it will just sit there and do nothing. This is normally fixed by unplugging the phone, waiting 10 seconds and plugging it back it, although sometimes a reboot of the infotainment is required. I've tried this on multiple iPhones, with the same symptoms, so is it just Carplay being sh*te? or is it Smartlink or something else in the infotainment that needs a reset/firmware update? Attached is the system info TIA

If it's intermittent on just the one, sounds like a dodgy connection/loose wire. Might be worth looking at the workshop manuals and seeing where the module that controls all the light strips is, then working your way back to the door from there.

For a 2016 Mk3 Scout I used camera A, however I ordered camera E by accident initially. If that will fit anyone's vehicle then let me know, I'd be happy to sell it.

Do you mean the switch or the latch? In my mind the switch is the external button you press to open the boot, and the latch is the mechanism that holds the boot closed, operated by the switch

I recently did the reverse camera retrofit on my mk3 scout, so I have my boot switch spare if you'd like it? Alternatively you could also do the reverse camera retrofit, it was a £40 kit on aliexpress plus some cable rods, took me an afternoon.

Yes, hence why I use plywood, as it holds together well but will deform to the shape of the lip

Yes, for a 2016 octavia w/out kessy

When using my trolley jack, which I trust a lot more than the widowmaker in the boot, I put a thick piece of plywood on the plate to avoid damaging the lip on the jacking point, I did used to have a solid bit of oak with a dedicated slot in it but that got lost years ago...