SpaceWalrus

When I bought my car it only came with one key, not wanting to tempt fate, I got another one made up at Timpsons, albeit for £180 (!)

No major issues, and definitely no warping of the boot lid. The only problem was that my struts had also about had it, so were only able to lift the lid about halfway. This was normally enough for most purposes, but mildly inconvenient and annoying that it's not perfect. This weakness was compounded in the fact that when I used mole grips to hold onto the piston rod of the struts, I didn't use any interface material, which led to me damaging the coating, causing some rust to forms and contributing to the failure of the struts. Last week I got around to buying some new Stabilus struts (£47 + Free P&P from StrutsDepot) and fitted the existing springs onto those. I made sure to use some rubber around the rod to prevent damage, I used an old bike inner tube folded multiple times, however a harder rubber would probably be better. Now the boot lid pops up all the way at the press of a button, and I did the bonnet strut conversion a couple months ago also, with no issues so far. As for your idea of a tuneable lift Steve, the springs tend to just give it enough pop to get it going, it's the struts that really matter in my opinion. No major issues, and definitely no warping of the boot lid. The only problem was that my struts had also about had it, so were only able to lift the lid about halfway. This was normally enough for most purposes, but mildly inconvenient and annoying that it's not perfect. This weakness was compounded in the fact that when I used mole grips to hold onto the piston rod of the struts, I didn't use any interface material, which led to me damaging the coating, causing some rust to forms and contributing to the failure of the struts. Last week I got around to buying some new Stabilus struts (£47 + Free P&P from StrutsDepot) and fitted the existing springs onto those. I made sure to use some rubber around the rod to prevent damage, I used an old bike inner tube folded multiple times, however a harder rubber would probably be better. Now the boot lid pops up all the way at the press of a button, and I did the bonnet strut conversion a couple months ago also, with no issues so far. As for your idea of a tuneable lift Steve, the springs tend to just give it enough pop to get it going, it's the struts that really matter in my opinion.

I ordered mine from Superskoda, and that is still going strong

From what I remember when I fitted mine, it clipped in fairly easily. It might require a bit of elbow grease, but don't force anything too much! Check and make sure there's no gunk or debris in the slots.

There should be a 12v cigarette socket in the boot which you could use or attach a piggyback wire to, otherwise you can just use a piggyback fuse from the fusebox behind the glovebox, and run the wire to wherever you like

A 30A fuse at 12v will allow 360W of power, so it should be fine, otherwise, you could have a relay powered by the ignition switching fuse, and then have multiple piggybacks with smaller fuses feeding into it, but that’s unnecessary as a single piggyback should be fine

See this post

One fuse spur in the glovebox fusebox is ignition switched, so you could use that with a piggyback fuse holder to power the inverter, as for placement of the inverter, perhaps in the boot or under the passenger seat, but that's quite a distance. Having fitted a warning light system to my Octy for my work, I positioned the controller, which is a similar size to an inverter, underneath the blower motor behind the glovebox with a couple of brackets.

It is, however, if you fancy your hand with some DIY wiring, you could wire up a 12v socket that is ignition controlled, with a piggyback fuse from the internal fusebox, there's one fuse in there that is ignition controlled, I believe there's a thread about dashcam installations that lists it. you could then run the wire to your charger whichever way you like.

Hi all, I'm converting my 2016 Octavia Scout into an ambulance rapid response vehicle, for both NHS and private work. This involves an emergency lighting system, and although I can run it off the regular battery, I'm considering installing a secondary battery. If I do decide to go this route, does anyone have a good location for the secondary battery? Normal RRVs remove the spare wheel, however I'm not willing to do this, I'm considering perhaps under the passenger or driver's seat, does anyone have experience/advice when it comes to this? I'm fairly sure a standard leisure battery wouldn't fit under the seats. (Any questions about the wiring for this project, I'm happy to help) Thanks in advance

Here's hoping the stealership doesn't rob you dry!

Here's an image from the workshop manual on how to remove the filler cap if you need it

For the first error, check fuse 7 in the engine bay fusebox, should be a 10A fuse, beyond that you're gonna need to be under the car probing wires. The next error, I'm afraid I can't find anything relating to that fault code in my Haynes search, but from some googling, it does look like it might be a trip to the mechanic. First watch this video, admittedly I haven't watched it as I am unable to at the current moment, but looking at the description and comments, it also looks fuse related. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4EcBhmwBErk

Hi all, If you're pining for an automatic tailgate, but don't have the funds or technical expertise to fit powered struts, you can use springs on the regular boot struts, such that with the press of the button on your keyfob, the boot lid springs open (You still have to manually close it though) I used 6 Indexa HLR-16X51 Die Springs, 3 for each strut https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143790236364 Following this video (For a fiesta but it's exactly the same): The installation is fairly simple. I'm yet to encounter any issues with wear and tear on the struts themselves, however bear in mind this does place extra pressure on the boot latch, however I haven't heard of any breaking from similar solutions. Any questions pop them here, although I can't guarantee I'll be very fast in replying

Just food for thought, check your battery terminals (and hold-down) are clean and well tight. All those errors are the same as the ones I got when I disconnected and reconnected my battery. Also check the main wires to and from the battery for any fraying, on my old Peugeot 107, I had an issue where the battery wasn't secured properly, and the continuous movement fatigued the negative wire to the chassis, eventually breaking to it, leading to intermittent engine failure.

It might be possible using VCDS, I'll try check at some point, but my Octy is currently in multiple pieces (In the good way)