Calskil

Posting on behalf of my brother who is looking at a 1.4tsi IV sportline estate. It looks pretty well loaded spec wise, DCC, Front heated screen, factory towbar etc. I was just looking for some tips for things to ask or look for when he's test driving and looking at it more specific to that drivetrain. Thanks for any help there.

Main difference with ours is the carrier bolts are recessed triple square unlike those shown in the video. Luckily they don't need to be removed to get the disc off. As I said, access is tight and the bolts didn't want to move for me anyway. Luckily I just had a go at moving the disc and it came out.

Yeah I did, it wasn't too bad tbh. I didn't need to take the carrier off the hub only the piston part of the brake as the disc can fit in and out without removing it which is good as access for the bolts is a pig. Make sure you have the ability to turn of the electric parking brake. I have an OBD11 so wasn't an issue for me.

Ive changed to some other discs and pads now so hopefully will do better. I'm not sure if they were changed before my ownership but I'm on 90k miles now. I do know I asked for them to be looked at before I bought the car but not certain they changed the discs or just the pads. Mines just hit 90k. But not sure they've been done before hand or not. They were awful. The matched the wear pattern seen there. The outboard faces had lips and areas that weren't swept too but nothing like the inboard faces.

Should I expect this every time or will different brand change things now I've done them? Wasn't a bad job but don't want them to eat pads 😅

What started as a nearside rear bearing replacement (aborted due to only having XZN 16 and not an 18) turned out to be a brake job. I've been having a bit of rumbling for a while so probably need it done still. I've never seen wear like this, outsides were a bit lipped but the insides were heavily lapped. New discs and pads hopefully will sort a bit of the rumbling!

Well I have a diesel V8 which makes approx 320 and that is useless 🤣 it gets about 15-19mpg. Granted it's trying to move around a 2.6tonne brick on wheels and is nowhere near as fun to chuck about as the Skoda. 3.6TDV8 L322 😅

This is kinda a whole rear round thing. Wet or dry. I guess I'll try the grease and then I'll try other things being replaced.

This is my creaking. Handily my work carpark has loads of speedbumps perfect for catching the creak. It creaks with every bounce as it settles after the bump. I'll try a bit of L-grease.

Thanks, I'll take a look at pricing those things up and try and do the lot at once. Hopefully someone can answer this next bit, are the TTRS top mounts that much better at all? I've seen bits and pieces about using them but unsure if they're really needed for a family barge. Is there anything else I should do while I'm doing top mounts? Any little remedial things I can do while things are out of the way? Not shy of a spanner and have done a lot of suspension swaps on my MGZS so hopefully will all go well! I reckon I'm gonna be spending a fair bit of cash on this thing soon. Poor RR will have to wait 🤣

Sorry for bumping this old thread up. So I have been listening out when I does and doesn't creak. It's very minimal if there at all when coming to a stop but it is extremely apparent over slow speed bumps like speed bumps and heavy undulations in bad roads. I cant hear at faster speeds as there is too much road and wind noise to really tell. it will do this wether it is one or two wheels on a speedbump too. it also seems to be reeeeaaaly wallowy over bumps. Like the rebound control is shot too and I'm just bouncing on springs. All this as I'm trying to repair a new to me "Full fat" L322 range rover 🤣

It does a little but not so much as with the bumps where it comes on much more harshly.

Gradually getting worse, noticeable at low speed over bumpy roads and especially a harsher speed bump. Seems to come from both sides. Is this the front LCA's do we think? It's a very crunchy creak. Cheers.

Would be great if the Google maps displayed on the digidash but we all know that won't happen. But I don't use the Skoda maps anyway so no great loss as long as apple play and AA still work.

I struggle enough with remembering how many times to roll the control knob for the mk3 MFD without looking at the Speedo. But at least then it's just the Speedo. The centre console is muscle memory or I can at least feel I'm not on the right button. Having to swipe a small MFD without looking and maintaining accuracy is going to be awful, especially given that sometimes a swipe may not work as expected. Absolutely stupid, clean for clean sake is foolish and, ultimately, dangerous. And that bloody screen is daft too. Build it in, why do you need a TV for maps ffs. Edit as if just noticed a "unique selling point" of "quick access to many functions". What is quicker than a button for that damn thing that you know where it is with a click to know it's been engaged. FFS. Another edit: is that a split opening arm rest? Why? The second worst bit about my mates A-class, close to the TV screen on the dash.

She didn't, it was coming out of a parking space and it was a low motorway armco type metal barriers. Hahaha, already paid for. It's all looking like it's going to be an insurance job.

Unfortunately the other half has scraped the car good and proper and has involved the rear arch between the door and arch so I'm guessing its not going to be an easy fix but I'm no expert. Does anyone have experience of wether we'll get a good fix or will it be a case of it's always going to look bad? May not need a door replacement but I haven't seen the depth of the scratch there yet and the alloy is gouged too. Not what we need with our wedding in two weeks 🤣

What do we make of these Yokohama's touting 67db? I was gonna go up to 45profiles to get what comfort I could from the 19's and these came up with 4-5db lower than most?

Children of Mike.

Just put them on for the aesthetic 😎

I was thinking pack it up with a bit of pipe insulation 🤔

Hahaha! I'm not that mad, honest! I've just never fit them before so wasn't entirely certain 😅

Guy at work got some free roof bars and offered them to me as he doesn't need them. Is there a specific profile for the estate bars, or is this close enough? Cheers

Just added a "z" profile seal to each front door leading edge and lower edge from the inside. Wether this will do anything remains to be seen/heard. I didn't have enough left do do the lower portions of the rear doors. Points for guessing the make and model of the car behind the door 😁

No worries with the questions. I went to a slight overlap like you did there at the top as in my pic The bottom doesn't really stay in place where I have it as the door pushes it off. But it stays fine just above the sportline door trims there where your pic shows. It would probably be best if it went right to the bottom but it won't stay.