Benjybobs

At the presentation of the car in Spain, Skoda told reporters that: This maximum power of 245 hp is maintained for only eight seconds, seven seconds less than the 204 hp of the "normal" Octavia iV. Of these eight seconds, the power must not exceed 190 hp, which means that it can last 25 seconds. If we continue to accelerate at full throttle after these 33 seconds, we can only achieve the maximum power of 150 hp that the internal combustion engine delivers. "

Actually just saw, the regular iv has full boost for 15 seconds, rather than vrs’ 8.

All the vrs visual trims are the main differences. after that, it’s the same larger disc brakes fitted to the petrol vrs (but not diesel) also vented at the rear. interestingly, the vrs is slower to 200 kph than the none vrs iv if you just keep your foot planted, see below: the max motor boost to 245ps is only for 8 seconds. Then it drops to like 180 bhp or something. The normal iv has max boost to 202ps for 11 ish seconds. Then drops to the same 180 ish bhp. there’s an interesting discussion about it here, you’ll need google translate https://www.skodacommunity.de/threads/fahrleistungen-rs-iv.137032/ There’s videos on YouTube of people quickly lifting off the throttle to reactivate the boost every 8 seconds. It improves the 0-200 on the golf gte and cupra leon hybrid by 7 seconds or so. More closely matched to the 2 litre petrol then. I presume it’s the same for the vrs.

It’s funny because i was driving on the motorway a while ago and being blinded by a car in the opposite carriageway. Some 4 lanes of separation and a central barrier between us. it was an octavia vrs. I think some deffo weren’t set up correctly. Worth trying a different dealer perhaps?

are you setting the battery to be fully charged at departure time too, or just the air con? This won’t help you, but mine hasn’t failed to do what its scheduled. I have set it up wrong once it twice though and come out to find it wasn’t charged. I’m on software 1889. That might be crucial. Are you confident you’ve programmed it properly? Have you got two conflicting programs perhaps? Have you set it to “repeat” or just “once” maybe post a picture of your program. I think the reliability of the app has a lot to do with how good a mobile signal your car has with its on board sim card. Can you connect the car to your home wifi perhaps? My app experience has been pretty good on the whole, but does seem flakey at peak times. I suspect their servers get overloaded easily.

I read the other thread where this was mentioned and tried to see if my canton does it, but it seems not. I’m on 1889 software.

What i want to know is why can’t that little white light illuminate when you open the flap? it seems the only time it’s not lit up is when I’m fumbling about in the dark trying to plug it in. Right after I’ve just gotten out of the car, and the arriving home lights are still shining, then when you do finally find the socket it then lights up after you plug it in. Thanks skoda.

I don’t think you can make it default to hybrid, unless the battery is flat, then it will of course. it’s fairly quick to switch it to hybrid though, mode button, then tap hybrid. I think you can setup a shortcut too, if you drag the top of the screen down and access the short cut menu. or i suppose if you put it in sport mode with the gear lever, you then have hybrid, albeit with battery boost, so it’ll drain down the battery faster than normal hybrid. Sometimes if i want it to run in hybrid from a start, i tap it into sport, and after the first acceleration the engine starts, then back to normal mode via the gear selector will leave it in hybrid for quite a while whilst the engine gets up to temp.

So i took them down a notch and can confirm I’m much happier. the white adjustment screws on top on the lights are what you need with a 6mm hex / allen key. the ones near the centre of the car do left and right alignment (don’t mess with these, is my advice) the ones near the sides of the car do the up and down. Take it easy though, one full rotation doesn’t look like much if you’re pointing at a nearby flat surface, but makes a big difference on the road. i can no longer see the silhouette of the driver in front’s ears on road signs ahead, and the full beams seem to point ahead now and not slightly skyward as before. I’ve restarted the car a few times since and can confirm the change has remained. i think if you’ve got a problem with any of the individual 4 light units pointing the wrong way, or the matrix not working correctly, then this is unlikely to help. For that, you’ll likely need a proper dealer calibration, as mentioned by a previous poster.

I’m happy to have a go at the height level, as i can’t see that impacting on the matrix much. The block outs during the matrix operation all seem to be in vertical strips. I’m not going to touch the horizontal adjustment, I can see how that might impact the matrix more. Although mine seems okay in that department. I’m going to have a try tomorrow and will report back.

I’ve got the matrix and have been getting flashed a bit on dipped beam. ive felt they seemed high from day one. i also notice the full beam seems a touch high, and there’s a thin strip of light slightly above head height, and a shadow below. the matrix operation seems to work pretty well. I’m going to bring them down a touch though. the left is slightly higher than the right, can someone confirm this is how its supposed to be in the UK? Or should they be level? i believe you adjust one of the white plastic screws on top of each of the lights. One of them will do the height, the other the left and right direction of each unit. I’d recommend counting the turns so you can set it back to how you found it if it goes wrong!!

Are there any plans to make any more of these?

Thankyou! i thought i was going mad. Mine is the same. also, if you switch the engine off, the lights come on as you’d expect, then after a while they time out if you don’t open the door to get out. After this time out, you cannot switch them back on manually in any way without opening the door. what’s that all about?

I think it depends on software version. My VRS has no fake sounds in any mode except sport. maybe if you can get it updated to a newer version, you might get some joy. Mines on 1889.

my phev is the vrs, so it’s a little different in that there is no “B” mode. It has sport mode instead on the gear selector, so whats below might be different for your car. If you set the regen braking to “auto” it’ll decide when to let the car coast and when to apply regen, and exactly how much. when it is regenerating, it will feel just like engine braking, but it will vary in strength. This might frustrate or delight, depending on your nature. I expected to hate it, however I find the auto setting great and well judged. It knows if a junction is approaching, or if you’re coming up behind another car, or a lower speed limit is coming up. It’s not frustrated me once yet. You can almost drive the car with one pedal. when braking normally, you’ll be using regen most of the time, you might not even realise it. You have to be slowing down pretty hard for it to transition to actual brakes, that transition is noticeable in mine, and the first few times it was a little unnerving for me. Maybe because the brakes are still new on mine. you can set it to permanently regen a fixed amount every time you let off the throttle, but it can be a bit harsh, and you’ll probably find your brake lights are coming on a lot, or you can disable regen and it will coast when you let off the throttle. When you brake it will still regen first, and if you’re not slowing enough, then bring the brakes in. Auto hold is also great on hills and indeed anywhere, if you have acc activated too, then all you need to do in a traffic jam is dab the throttle to set off, and acc and auto hold will move you along, and stop you when the car in front stops. Works great. flappy paddles are probably only useful if you’re planning to use a big burst of acceleration, and don’t want the inconvenience of waiting for the car to kick down. I’d say try and relax and let it do it’s thing, it’s my first auto too, and I don’t think I’d want a manual again in a normal road car.

I’m pretty happy with my canton, mp3 fines on a memory stick seem to sound the best. I honestly can’t seem to tell the difference between -9 and +9 on the subwoofer though. Mines the hybrid, so the sub is even more compromised. one possible glimmer of hope though is that people who get the update to 1896 seem to say they noticed an improvement in the sound. I’m still on 1889, but hoping for an ota update. this German forum seemed to imply that was starting to happen. https://www.skodacommunity.de/threads/skoda-softwareversion-22-1889-und-1886.141236/page-31 i phone will auto translate

Some great suggestions here, I think you’re all right, (well, with the exception of running the oven on a timer at 3am). I tried pre heating from the mains this morning, it immediately pulled about 4kw, and I ran it like that for about 15 mins before getting in. You can see how this would smash the internal battery if you use it for heating. I think for short journeys, I’ll just keep my coat on, or run the engine. today, i was planning a 175 mile journey for work. So I set off in hybrid mode and allowed the engine to warm the cabin. overall stated mpg, returning home with a flat battery was 58mpg. It cost me about £2.80 of electricity to prop up the engine to that level. I think I’ve got a good handle now on what to do with it. I’m pretty impressed to be fair, I’m sure over a longer journey, the mpg might have dropped a bit more, but I still think it’s pretty good for the performance available. It’s also my first auto, and it was bliss in a jam on the motorway, the acc pretty much driving itself. Very relaxing. the only disclaimer, is the manual does state to try and avoid leaving it fully charged, and to aim to keep it between 40% and 80% rather than regularly charging it to 100%. Considering the meagre range, I’ll just keep charging it up to 100 and hope for the best.

In with Bulb too, but haven’t made the leap to the tariff you mention as I was worried my daily consumption would cost more as a result. We’ve got two young children in the house, so the washer/ dryer /oven etc is commonly on in the day. I’ll have to get a spreadsheet out and see if it works for us.

Ill try the pre heating next time and report back. My electricity tariff is about to rise to 33p /kwhr in October, so it makes it even less favourable!

Hi all, I’ve been experimenting with the new car to try and discover what’s the best source of fuel to use under certain typical conditions. it’s the vrs hybrid in estate form. Now this morning I set off to do the school run. I had 100% battery, and drove 3 miles. it was cold this morning, about 3 degrees Celsius, so quite a bit of energy used in warming up the cabin. anyway, when i got home, I charged the car back up to 100%. This used 9kwh of electricity, and cost £2.30 the app states I used 1.6 mi/kwh on electric (the engine started too, as it was so cold, so i also probably did the first 0.5 mile on petrol!!). Anyway, being generous, I supposedly used around 3kwhr of electricity for driving, and it seems, about 6 kwhr to heat the cabin up, plus some inefficiencies when charging I guess. That’s about 76p a mile for that particular journey. Now, bare with me, to have made the same trip on petrol alone, and it cost me 76p a mile, I approximate that to have to be around 7mpg of fuel at around £1.60 a litre. the question is, when it’s cold out, like today, would a petrol engine be operating at such a low efficiency as 7mpg over such a short journey? I’m beginning to think on cold days, it’s going to be cheaper to run the engine, then use the electric. It’s obviously very hard to know exactly how much petrol I’d use over the same journey, so maybe I should stop thinking too hard about it.

Mine took about 5 weeks from that point, but it kept changing status to delayed in transit. I suspect that was to do with the industrial action going on across all the German ports in August. that’s all settled now, so ilI be optimistic and think you’ll be looking at anywhere between 2 and 4 weeks before you collect it, assuming all goes well!

Good news! (For me) my vrs iv has arrived. After 16 months, and exactly one year after the original delivery date! I’m feeling my age, as I’m finding it pretty bewildering to figure out where everything is in the menus. So far so good though, I’m not sure if it was sitting a long time before it was finished, but everything seems to be working…. At the moment. oddly, the mode button wouldn’t work at first, but then after an hour on the road and an ota update, it’s now fine. it also threw an engine malfunction on the first start, although this has gone and it’s telling me it needs an oil service within 100 miles. It only has 9 miles on the odometer, so not sure what that’s all about. it drives really nice, and feels a nice place to sit. So really happy so far only frustrations so far are the sunroof option seems to have cost me a sunglasses holder, and there’s some questionable panel gaps, overlap where the bonnet meets the wings, on both sides! Must be a feature. Hope everyone else who is still waiting, get theirs soon!

just had notification from the lease company that my car is ready for collection/delivery to me. Just need to book a convenient time with them. vrs iv estate, canton, dcc, pano roof. ordered may 2021, i hope it’s not broken when it arrives.

Im already up to 16 months, and still counting for a vrs iv, also a company car. it’s tough, but what alternative is there? I’m not sure there’s a manufacturer out there at the moment that can honestly supply a new car within what used to be considered a reasonable time frame. I’m sure things will get better for you. Personally, I’ve found depths of restraint I haven’t experienced since waiting for the lego set my mother left in plain sight in the run up to Christmas back in 1989 i hope things get better soon for everyone

Mine has been released from the factory for well over a month now. just told there are delays in transit. I spotted this: https://craneww.com/knowledge-center/latest-news-and-info/port-strike-germany/ hopefully that explains it, and now an agreement has been reached, things can start moving again! i wonder what’s next? Typhoon in the North sea perhaps? There’s bound to be something else!