DougT

The problem hasn't gone away unfortunately. It's proving difficult to pin down whether it's a fault with the clutch or with the mechatronic. The garage's latest thought's are that it's the clutch and that I need to take it to another company to have it looked at.

Little update. I took it to a VW group specialist garage in Bromley and started the process of trying to troubleshoot the clunky gear shifts and fault codes. After a bit of to and fro they were all ready to send the mechatronic unit to be repaired, but before doing that they hooked it up to an ODIS system (at least I think that’s what they said). Im not quite sure why, but that changed their mind about sending it off, and it seems to have done the job! Yes it’s still a bit idiosyncratic, but it’s consistently idiosyncratic, which will do for me.

Update. I have solved this, thanks to a mixture of help from this forum, YouTube and a bit of help from the shop I bought the adapters from. I made a new topic detailing what I did and mistakes made here. In hindsight I probably should have just posted all the info in this topic, if an admin wants to merge the two topics that's fine by me.

(I'll upload some more pics at some point) https://www.pioneer-car.eu/uk/products/avh-z9200dab Et voila! It works! Warning, long rambling read! Moral of story, check what you already have before buying the bits to adapt it. Firstly, thanks to this forum I’ve managed to learn lots of things that have been applicable to this little project. So thanks for all the info! I’m going to share what I learned in the hope it helps someone else later on. I’ve never installed a car stereo in a car this modern before so it was a bit of a learning curve, trial, error and a bit of luck. I bought the car with a factory installed Columbus Nav/Stereo unit (3T0 035 680 A). At first it seemed pretty good, but I quickly discovered it lacked DAB, USB, wouldn’t play lossless audio files from the SD card or internal hard disk, and even though it was equipped with bluetooth I couldn’t connect my iPhone to it. My colleague was selling his van and offered me his pretty s****y Pioneer head unit for a decent price (although the only cables he gave me were the microphone, the GPS, antenna, USB cables, and a damaged DAB antenna) he said if I couldn’t get installed he’d have it back! I checked Pioneer’s website and found that it would be compatible with the right adapters and a fascia kit! I went to a local car stereo install shop to buy the right bits. Fascia kit with mounting brackets. [Connects2 CT24VW12https://connects2.com/Product/ProductItem/CT24VW12# ] An ISO to QuadLock harness with Steering Wheel control conversion interface box. [Connects2 CTSSK002.2 and Universal patch lead https://connects2.com/Product/ProductItem/CTSSK002.2 ] A DAB windscreen antenna. A twin Fakra to ISO and DIN FM antenna adapter. [Connects2 CT27AA179https://connects2.com/Product/ProductItem/CT27AA179 ] I also had to buy a Pioneer Power/speaker ISO harness from eBay because it didn’t come with the head unit. [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225423890954 ] I’d already found how to remove the Columbus head unit before I went shopping for adapters and stuff. I followed a YouTube vid, and I turns out it’s pretty easy. You just need a flat bladed screwdriver (preferably a well used one with rounded-off corners so as not to scratch your fascia/dashboard), and a torx T20 screwdriver. You prize the outer fascia off by inserting the screwdriver from the left or right hand edges, and it just pops out. There is an airbag light at the bottom of this bit of fascia which YOU SHOULD NOT UNPLUG from it’s cable (doing so and then tuning on the ignition will give you an airbag warning that will be a pain to reset). Instead I noticed there are clips that secure the whole light unit to the fascia, the clips are on the far edges of the light on the back of the fascia. Release these clips and you can get the fascia out the way without needing to unplug the light. Unscrew the four T20 bolts from the corners of the Columbus, and it lifts right out. Make sure the ignition is off, maybe even take the key out. Unclip the QuadLock from the back left of the Columbus, slightly fiddly if your QuadLock cable is as short as mine as you have to pull the lever down before you can pull it out. I’m sure there’s plenty of guides on YouTube for this too. Unclip the Fakra antennas, pull the tab out and push gently down to unlatch. So, I’d got the Columbus out, and I’d bought some bits. Time to start plugging stuff in and checking the Pioneer stereo works. The cables in the ISO harness I’d bought from eBay (a Genuine Pioneer AVIC Power Wire, Harness, Loom, Wiring, cable CDP1545 CDP-1545 so the listing said) have some clearly optional cables as part of it, (green, pink, purple) and a red and yellow wire that need to be connected. I plugged in the red, yellow, pink and purple ones to their corresponding sockets in the ISO to QuadLock harness. I didn’t plug in the green “Parking brake” cable. I plugged in the Fakra adapter, the double only, into the double Fakra plug and the other end into the DIN antenna socket on the back of the Pioneer. I plugged the ISO harness into the ISO to QuadLock adapter, one end of the the Universal patch lead into the WR minijack socket on the back of the Pioneer and the other end into the Interface box. I plugged the Interface box into the cable on the ISO to QuadLock harness. I put the key into the ignition and turned it. Did the head unit power up? It made a whirring noise, so probably. Did the screen come on or any sound come out the speakers? No! Back to the drawing board! It was because I hadn’t connected up the parking brake cable, but what’s the point of having a head unit with a screen that can display your phone satnav if you can only see the screen when the handbrake is on? After a bit of searching I found that if you splice the parking brake cable to the black earth wire the screen will stay on. Did that, plugged in, turned key, screen came on! Bingo! Not quite. No sound was coming from speakers. The unit seemed to be functioning normally, I was even able to change the volume level, but nothing from the speakers at all. This one took a lot of head scratching, trial and error, testing wires for continuity, realising the pins in my ISO to QuadLock harness didn’t quite match the pins of the car’s QuadLock plug. I was reading the forum looking for info and came across a thread talking about Skoda Sound System, which showed a picture of the speaker grill on the front doors which looked the same as, or very similar to mine. It led me to discovering I had a factory installed amp as part of my setup. I still didn’t know why there was no sound coming from the speakers, but I did know, as the amp and speakers worked perfectly well with the Columbus head unit installed, which meant the speaker cables from the QuadLock plug to the amp worked (although I continuity tested all the cables from the QuadLock plug to the amp plug anyway). I could only deduce the amp wasn’t powering up with the Pioneer installed. I wasn’t able to find much info on the amp I have, it’s a Blaupunkt 10CH amp with 3T0 035 456 on the label, so I got back in touch with the car stereo installers who sold me the parts. I told them what I’d found out and they agreed I had the wrong adapter. They recommended another, slightly more expensive one [InCarTec 49-VW-02], which I bought and returned the other one for a refund. It does the job! Next I had to install the DAB windscreen antenna, the GPS antenna on the dashboard close to the windscreen, and the mic. The mic was pretty easy, as the fascia part I bought had a little grill at the bottom so I stuck it in there. No need for any cable routing there. The DAB and GPS antenna were a bit more effort, but not that bad. I needed a wire coathanger, a torch, some insulation tape, something to clean the windscreen with and a flat bladed screwdriver. I saw on here somewhere how to pop the passenger side windscreen A-pillar trim off, think the post was for a MK III but it’s basically the same. Start pulling from under the door rubber seal, then there are two plastic stand-offs with metal sprung clips, you can pop the top one out with a lever of some sort, I used the screwdriver, then pull the piece of trim upward and it should come off. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/291482-a-pillar-trim-removal/ I also popped the trim off the side of the glove compartment, allowing me to poke the coat hangar through behind and into the recess the head unit and pull the cables through. I offered up the DAB antenna to see where I’d be attaching the earth strip to the A-pillar, scraped some of the paint off where it was going to be stuck, cleaned and dried it, and the windscreen with some isopropyl alcohol before sticking it in place. https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/pioneer-an-dab1-glass-mount-dab-digital-car-radio-aerial-antenna.html The GPS antenna cable was routed between the dash and windscreen, and along toward the passenger side where it could be pulled through with the DAB cable. The antenna stuck down to the space between the vents with a small piece of nanotape (brilliant stuff). Tidied up the wires, reattached the trim, harder than getting it off. I also disconnected the Bluetooth module under the driver’s seat, as it’s no longer being used. It all works very well. The InCarTec cable displays the reversing sensor info in the white display when Audio is selected instead of MFI, but tbh, I don’t rely heavily on the visual parking guides. There is another adapter cable which looks like it would put the parking sensor info on the screen of the Pioneer head unit, but it was too expensive for me at £169.99 https://connects2.com/Product/Search?searchPartnumber=CTUSK01 Things I'd like to do next: Connect the minijack AUX input under the central console armrest to the AUX-IN in of the Pioneer, should be fairly simple as there are connections for it in the now unused part of the car QuadLock plug. Connect the mics near the interior light to the mic in of the Pioneer, if it’s possible. I can see that there are mic connections in the car’s QuadLock plug. I don’t know what kind of mic they are, or how the three of them would mix into a single mic signal yet. Re-route the USB cables under the central console armrest. Will be tidier that having them in the glovebox.

I used a Synology DS411J quite happily for a few years. It got too slow in the end though, and wasn't really upgradable. These days I use OpenMediaVault on an HP Proliant Microserver. Less easy to set up than the Synology though.

Dear Rustynuts. Do you have any of the DAB antenna kits at the moment? If so, do they replace my existing FM antenna (shark fin) or is it possible for me to add to what’s there? I have a screen one I could install but I’d prefer not to if I can get away with it. Cheers

Thanks for your reply. My Pioneer seller is a private individual, so I wouldn't expect them to know much about compatibility. I've contacted Pioneer directly, will see what they say. What does Sound System require in terms of compatibility? I'm assuming not all Sound System configurations are the same. I have a Blaupunkt 10CH Amp 3T0 035 456, I've uploaded a photo. Can you give any more into about Skoda MIB STD2 PQ and what patching would be required? It seems like this might be a viable option to get BT and DAB features if the Pioneer unit isn't a viable option.

I'm attempting to swap the Columbus head unit in my car, for a s/h Pioneer AVH-Z9200DAB because I found I wasn't able to connect my iPhone to the existing bluetooth. I went to a local-ish car audio shop to buy the necessary adapters for the wiring harness and steering wheel controls. I've been trying for I don't know how many hours now to solve a problem I'm having of no sound coming out of the speakers. I had several theories, but settled on one which hinged around the wiring in my harness adapter not quite matching the pin configuration of the Quadlock adapter - as detailed in attachment 1. While researching, the forum this morning I found out it's probably because I have a Blaupunkt 10CH amp under the passenger seat! I feel pretty stupid right now. Now I have to figure out how to get the audio into that! I can see there's a pin for Amp on the Columbus Quadlock diagram, but that there's no connection for it on the actual Quadlock plug, also that there don't seem to be any other audio out connections other than speaker connections (unless the green and blue Quadlock plugs are being used. I'd welcome any advice anyone can give before I bite the bullet and pay for the shop to fit it. Thanks. Att1 - Harness wiring mismatch.pdf

Yes. I was sold this adaptor. https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/ct27aa179-skoda-all-models-twin-fakra-to-din-and-iso-antenna-adapter.html It seems to work well for fm reception in my 2010 Superb, connected to the dual fakra cable and with the blue wire connected in to the blue wire of the iso harness. I don’t know what the single fakra is for. I’m assuming it’s an AM or gps antenna as my Columbus unit didn’t have DAB.

Thanks Declan, it's at least good to know I'm. not alone. No idea if I have Hill Hold Control to be honest, I had naively assumed it was something all automatics had because the handful of times I've driven one they've never rolled on hills.

Lets hope we find some answers!

Back in March I bought a tidy looking 2010 Superb Estate, but from day one gear changing hasn't been very consistent. It's done about 85K miles to date, about 2K of them driven by me. Firstly I'll admit this is the first automatic I've owned, although I have driven others before, so I'm willing to accept that some of this may be user error, and can be dealt with my driving it a bit differently. Occasionally it will stick in gear and the gear number displayed in the dash will flash D2. Pulling over and restarting rectifies this. It will also, slightly more frequently perform a loud clunk and jolting gear change, this seems to happen at lower speeds. More frequently still at lower speeds, especially in situations like speed bumps, roundabouts, slow cornering etc - where I've had to slow down then accelerate away, it will kick down to a lower gear and accelerate hard as soon as I ease my foot back on the gas. I find this pretty disconcerting and it doesn't make for smooth manoeuvres. I get around this by putting it into semi auto (Triptronic) mode to force it to not change gear until I'm ready. It also generally seems sluggish to engage gears from a standstill, more than other auto's I've driven. It will roll backward on hill starts after taking foot off brake forcing me to accelerate go get it to engage. Reversing up a hill is even worse, making parallel parking on hills pretty sketchy. Changing up gears while accelerating seems smooth, in fact all open road gear changes seem pretty smooth and reliable. The engine check light's been on a couple of times with P0810 OBD code (Clutch Position Control Error) I have been to a local garage to ask them to investigate, they've told me the clutches aren't too worn, and they reset the gearbox hoping it would rectify the behaviours - it hasn't. I'm booked back into the garage in a couple of weeks so they can investigate further. In the mean time I'm trying to get as much info as I can so I can go to them armed with a bit of knowledge. I've read the 7 speed DSG doesn't need servicing, having a dry clutch and a non user serviceable mechatronic unit, and so if there's a problem with the mechatronic unit, the whole thing will have to be replaced. I'm hoping that isn't what's needed. It seems to me that some of the problems seem to stem from the gearbox mis-interpreting the revs at certain times, It's just a hunch, but I don't understand why it would want to kick down after say gently accelerating after a speed bump for example. Are there sensors that exist outside of the mechatronic unit to read rpm, and speed of travel etc? It would be a massive pain if it were the mechatronic unit as the 18 month handler warranty explicitly doesn't cover those. Can anyone help me please? Doug

Ok, I've looked up the part number now, and found it's an activated charcoal canister. Clearly I need to replace the broken hose, but should I be replacing the whole thing?

Found the hose on one side had been glued, and has come off at some point. Any idea what it is so I can get a proper replacement? Thanks.

I've just bought a 2010 Superb Estate 1.8 TFSI Elegance, and I'm an instant convert. Not that I really needed much converting. I'll need to upgrade the stereo so I can have a hands free iPhone. I'll probably be asking quite a few questions over the next few weeks. Anyway, hello Skoda people.