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MrSecretPotato

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  • Location
    Livingston, Scotland

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  • Model
    Skoda Karoq 1.6 TDi
  • Year
    2018

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  1. The clock spring is a fairly old thing in the cars, the horn and steering wheel airbag was mostly done with these before the smart features. I'd say not turning the wheel lock to lock is a good way to prolong their life as this puts less stress on the wire. There is some slack built into them, around an extra half turn worth of wires, but not turning the wheel until it locks definitely helps.
  2. It's basically how the steering wheel controls and anything that turns with the steering wheel connects to the rest of the car. This includes the horn, airbag, and all the buttons on the wheel itself, excluding the stalks which are stationary compared to the steering wheel. It's a spool of ribbon wire which allows you to turn the wheel about 2.5-3 full turns in each direction. When this ribbon wire breaks, the car cannot communicate with the modules on the wheel and that's what causing the errors to show up.
  3. I have recently tried various stalks in order to retrofit AAC, the clock spring was included with the stalk assembly. Parts were from broken down cars, so used but they were around the £50-70 mark (spring and stalk assembly together). Fitting the spring only is around a 15 min job. I needed coding some extra coding and my VCDS was not capable to do the full coding, so I replaced the original parts for now.
  4. Many of us have chosen a 3D printed replacement from Etsy/Ebay: Here's the search link for the Etsy page: Skoda Karoq Cup Holder - Etsy UK
  5. If you feel a bit adventurous, you could give AliExpress a go, they offer the pair for £140. Looks like a simple replacement too based on the videos I looked at. I would definitely try this before. While I cannot check myself right now, according to the pictures the length looks identical, so you should be fine with replacing it with a gas operated one. The other question if it's going to show any sort of faults on the dash.
  6. I'm fairly certain it's just a straight up module swap, no coding needed. If you would switch to the newer USB-C type, then you might need coding. Search "Skoda Karoq USB port" on eBay, you'll see a few results at around £40-50.
  7. It'll be the port most likely. Can you see some debris in it by any chance? Cleaning it might help, but make sure not to use any metal or conductive material as shorting the pins might cause a fuse to blow or permanently damage it.
  8. So what you're saying is basically the Auto Hold button controls the automatic handbrake application upon engine shut ott too? That is an interesting finding. I have my car for a year now, I turned Auto Hold on on the way home from the dealer and never turned it back off. It is such a convenient feature, that I don't have to worry about the handbrake anymore together with the Auto Hold. I can see how it can become a problem if you don't use the car every couple days, the handbrake mechanism can get stuck or stiff, especially in a climate like the UK has.
  9. As far as I know there is no way to disable automatic parking brake application when shutting the engine off. You might be able to deactivate it with ignition, but when you open the door, the handbrake gets applied again. This is not the same as the auto hold. Auto hold is basically keeps the brake pedal pressed, until you accelerate slightly, it uses the normal brake parts, like what you use when you manually brake in the car. Parking brake is using an extra mechanism, you can hear it when it gets applied, like a motor slowly turning. If you have auto hold enabled and you turn the ignition off or open the drivers door while the engine is running with auto hold, the car applies the handbrake automatically. There is no permanent way to disable this unless you want to dig into some coding with VCDS.
  10. No problem. When I first popped it out I was almost sure I broke something, but when I checked it, nothing was broken. The module and the buttons are stronger than they look. You can kind of see on the picture under the 2nd step the cable which is connecting to the unit. You can try pushing it from behind with your finger while prying with the plastic tool between the slot and the unit itself, this way you are not risking the buttons on the front at all.
  11. The way to restart the unit is to press and hold the volume button for around 15 seconds. Are you sure it's not stuck? If that doesn't help, you could try disconnecting the battery for a few mins. This will throw up some error messages but clears after driving. The StartStop will work after second start.
  12. I mean, you're right, it should be fixed in warranty, but these buttons go for around £15-20 on eBay, and even the OEM ones are for £65-70. The war has nothing to do with this as I think they're made in Hungary. I have a feeling they're just trying to get out of this problem. The replacement is literally a 5 min job with coffee included. Probably the worst part of replacing this button is to actually get the small unit out of the holding plastic thingy. The reason why it's so cheap is because the button doesn't actually do anything as far as I know, apart from starting the engine. The actual keyless verification and other stuff is done by a different module.
  13. I suppose you could. But where's the fun in that? The reason for this tutorial is to help the people who are looking to find a solution to this Start-Stop problem. There's nothing wrong with turning it off every time, but this is a more elegant solution in my opinion. There should be an option to disable it more permanently than just for the drive. Some Audi's have a setting available with VCDS coding that can do the same thing this cable does, but sadly Skoda's controller is different and you cannot enable this functionality without tricks like this.
  14. I just realized that the site doesn't let me insert HEIC files into the post so I'm writing the instructions with the images into this one: Remove the plastic cover underneath the module using the pry tool Use the pry tool again to separate the frame and the module to allow the module to pop out. You can gently use the unused buttons to pull the module out with. They might pop out a bit, but shouldn't break. Note that the red connector is on the left side of the module while the black is on the right. Connect the cable with the thicker middle part to the red connector, and the slimmer one to the black. The connectors look very similar, but there are little plastic keys on the connectors and they should line up with the appropriate connector. Connect the cable with the thicker middle part to the left side of the module, where the red connector used to sit, and the other slimmer cable to the other connector. Make sure the connections are secure. There is thin wire connecting the 2 cables together, make sure this is not damaged. Carefully slide the extended cables into their original slow and slide the module back into it's place and push until it clips in. Pop back the covering plastic underneath and test out the new Start-Stop disable functionality. By default the module should be set to Reverse mode and it should turn the start-stop system off immediately after starting the engine.
  15. Hi! Little backstory: I have became the owner of a Karoq last year. This is the first car I owned with Start-Stop system which shuts down the engine if conditions are met when you come to a stop and switch to neutral. It was nice to have it for a first few rides, to have a car "intelligent" enough for this, but it soon became annoying. I looked into ways to disable the system, and concluded that I will definitely need some sort of ODB programmer thingy. I found out about VCDS, and ordered a cheaper version of the VAGCOM interfrace from Aliexpress. I realized after the order shipped that it only supported cars up to 2017. Bummer I tought, but when I received it, tried it, and it was able to do everything I was asking it to do. So that's a win. One of the things I did was to enable rear lights with DRLs as I hate when cars are not visible when they're only using the front DRLs, and nothing at the back. It should be mandatory to have DRLs in the front as well as in the rear at all times when the engine is running. But this is for another topic. The second thing was to find a way to disable the Start-Stop system. There are many options to turn this system off, but I tried many and the combination of these, and they were all resulting in a permanent fault message in the car saying problem with start stop system, start stop not available, and so on. After some digging, I found out that there is a adaptation channel in the CAN Gateway module called "Start_stop_voltage_limit" with a default value of "7.6" Volts. Changing this value to "12.0" will disable the Start Stop system as the car will always think that the energy consumption is over the threshold of what the battery can support and won't turn the engine off. All was great, the engine didn't stop at all when I came to a stop and switched to neutral regardless what I was using in the car. However, the by-product of this little trick is a small pop-up on the infotainment screen about "Start Stop system not available". This is why I decided to look into a different solution and when I found out about these cables. These cables are basically an addition between the switch you use to control the system and the connector which is behind the actual switch. This is the link for the actual product I purchased: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XXX//235233297485 I have to add, that originally, I bought the one listed for Skoda Karoq, but turns out that is not actually compatible with my model as the panel on the pictures looked different to mine. The seller was kind enough to replace the modul to the current one before he shipped the order, and sent me the link to the correct one which only lists the Kodiaq as compatible. The cable pair comes with a plastic pry tool to separate the panels in order to pop the module out. Steps: Remove the plastic cover underneath the module using the pry toolIMG_6251.HEICIMG_6252.HEIC Use the pry tool again to separate the frame and the module to allow the module to pop out. You can gently use the unused buttons to pull the module out with. They might pop out a bit, but shouldn't break.IMG_6254.HEICIMG_6244.HEIC Note that the red connector is on the left side of the module while the black is on the right. Connect the cable with the thicker middle part to the red connector, and the slimmer one to the black. The connectors look very similar, but there are little plastic keys on the connectors and they should line up with the appropriate connector.IMG_6245.HEICIMG_6246.HEIC Connect the cable with the thicker middle part to the left side of the module, where the red connector used to sit, and the other slimmer cable to the other connector. Make sure the connections are secure. There is thin wire connecting the 2 cables together, make sure this is not damaged. Carefully slide the extended cables into their original slow and slide the module back into it's place and push until it clips in.IMG_6249.HEIC Pop back the covering plastic underneath and test out the new Start-Stop disable functionality. By default the module should be set to Reverse mode and it should turn the start-stop system off immediately after starting the engine. The module has 3 operating modes: Normal, Reverse, and Memory. Press the Start Stop button to turn the system off. The button should have a solid yellow light showing) Press the Start Stop button 3 times in succession. After the 3rd press the button should not show the light, then the light should come on. For memory mode: Press the Start Stop button twice quickly. The light should turn off. For normal mode: Press the Start Stop button three times quickly. The light should turn on. For reversed mode: Press the Start Stop button four times quickly. The light should turn off. IMG_6247.HEIC IMG_6253.HEIC
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