Bathos

Push the bench back with more force and then lift up to disengage from the back fastenings.

Hi - thanks for this diagram. Sorry, I think I'm being daft as I've lifted the front up. It clicked out of the fasteners and came loose quite easily but the back seems to be fastened down as it won't shift. It's like it's bolted down at the back. I've tried moving it in various directions but no luck. Is it fastened down on the back? I can see some more yellow fasteners in the picture but it looks like you pull the bench forwards to disengage from them - but that doesn't appear to work either. Any help appreciated.

Does anyone have any experience of using Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) on the floor of the car, including under the rear seat bench, with any degree of success with suppressing road noise? I'm tempted to buy some but it's very expensive. Also not sure I 2mm would do much, but appreciate it’s very heavy which helps to block noise.

My 2021 superb (mk3) is very quiet on smooth tarmac but can be rather noisy on other surfaces (but much improved after adding sound proofing to wheel arches and boot which is easy and relatively cheap job to do. Quite satisfying too.). My previous car, which was a 2016 passat, definitely seemed quieter and more solid. The superb does seem lacking with sound proofing. However, I believe the tyres have a lot to do with road noise. On my superb I have michelin primacy 4s. Not sure if they are mostly behind the road noise (too expensive to replace to see. Lots of tread left). The Passat was either Dunlop or Goodyear (trying to remember). I remember one time I put on a different make on the front of the Passat and it was incredibly noisy like a very worn wheel bearing. I quickly replaced it. Tyres can make a massive difference.

Question regarding adding noise insulation foam under the rear seat bench of a Skoda Superb Mk3 hatchback. I haven't taken it off yet as only want to do it once as I hear the fixings can go loose. Anyone had that problem? I therefore want to order the material ready and do it once. Does anyone know if 10mm closed-cell foam is too thick to comfortable go under the bench without causing any fitting issues? I'm wondering if I should go for 5mm instead. I'm also considering using MLV but not sure if that would be more or less effective at suppressing road noise under the bench than closed-cell foam. In regards to MLC, does anyone have any experience of using 2mm MLV (sounds too thin but may be fine) with any degree of success with it suppressing road noise / drumming (tinny noise). I'm also considering gluing MLV to the bottom of the car floor mats to save pulling up the carpet etc (cut to the same size as the mats so completely hidden out of view). [I recently added sound deadening to the boot - layer of butyl followed by 10mm closed-cell foam and then carpet underlay on top but under the boot floor mat. I also replaced the styrofoam insert with a space-saver wheel. Big difference overall to road noise and drumming (always sounded very hollow and tinny over rough surfaces). It's much better but not perfect - still a little tinny (though significantly better), which is why I'm now considering doing under the back bench.] Thanks.

Hi - I have a 2021 Skoda Superb 1.5TSI Hatchback. I'm trying to reduce the tinny / hollow / boom / empty barrel sound that is noticeable in the cabin that is tolerable but I'd like to improve if I can. So far I've applied butyl mats to the boot floor and on the outside of the wheels arches (also added some 10mm closed-cell foam on the outside of the wheel arches as well), and I have done the B-pillar. However, I believe the noise seems to be mainly coming from the boot and tyres. I don't have a spare wheel; there's a foam insert instead. As well as that I've covered the boot floor in 10mm carpet underlay and carpet but it doesn't seem to make a difference to the noise. When I tap the boot floor, it sounds hollow. I'm thinking of trying some thick Mass Loaded Vinyl to go over the floor. Has anyone tried this and if so did it make a difference? Are there any cheaper alternatives, e.g. gym floor mat etc? I've also noticed that when I tap the tyres they sound very hollow and echoey, both on the car and off, irrespective of the pressure. They are Michelin Primacy 4s. Maybe replacing them (when they wear down) may help - maybe they are the cause of the echoey sound. On my last VW Passat the tyres made a massive difference to cabin noise. I remember replacing them once and the noise difference was night and day (can't remember what make they were). Any advice on the boot floor and using MLV appreciated. Would also be interested if anyone else has the same tyres and experienced a similar issue (though I appreciate this may be covered on a different thread). Cheers

Hi I hope you don't mind these questions: 1. Did you find that you had to fit these an inch or so down from the very top of the door (there's a bit of rubber at the top which gets in the way. See picture)? Or did you cut the top of the strip so that it flapped over the top of the other rubber trim (and glue down onto it)? 2. Did you have to cut the trim short at the bottom to shut the door (the gap gets very tight at the very bottom)? Any advice appreciated. I'll then go for it, i.e. cut the trim to size (no going back when I do, hence the questions and trepidation :-)). Many thanks.

Thanks for your advice and reassuring words. I'll tackle it next (just in the process of insulating the wheel arches. 1 done, 3 to go). Any tips with removing the top plastic cover to get to the screw without stretching it or breaking the lugs on the back? I fashioned a piece of steel to prise it off but was too thick. Think a flat screwdriver might mark it.

I have a 2021 Superb MkIII. Does anyone know if it would be possible to just squeeze some foam between the bottom of the seat belt (where it's anchored to the floor) and the trim, with the trim in place, to save taking the trim off entirely and risk breaking something? There's a reasonable gap with the trim in place but I don't know if there's any wires down there etc. that might get damaged in the process. Trying to avoid taking off the trim and damaging the ABS cap clips that hold it in place at the top (read that is a common problem) or scratching it etc. Alternatively, can the lower horizontal trim that stretches from the front to the back be taken off without taking off the vertical seatbelt trim? Wondered if that would be an easier option as figured the noise would be coming upwards so probably best to try and fill as close to the sill as possible and save the risks mentioned above with removing the top trim. Pictures attached.

That's a really good point - on rough surfaces the noise does seem to come in from everywhere. I'm curious what other luxury/quieter cars, such as the AUDI A4, do differently to make them so much quieter.

Hi Does anyone know if an additional rubber trim attached between the front and rear doors (along the edge of the rear door. See picture) to seal the gap would help reduce road/wind noise entering the cabin? I've noticed that luxury cars seem to fill this gap with rubber - maybe for this reason as well as keeping the inside of the doors clean. Unfortunately I can only seem to find universal rubber seals but I'm not sure if they will fit. Wondering if anyone has found any that fit that they would recommend please. Thanks.