rbhelle

Well, it is extremely difficult to diagnose via internet... But I always take into consideration that all bolts, joints and mechanics are actually tightened to specs and assembled according to manufacturers specs. If that is correct, then it is easier to actually fsult find what part it could be based on specific symptoms connected to a specific driving condition. If only present when turning steering wheel all to the left OR to the right AND hard acceleration. It makes it more plausible to be a fault in the drive line connected to inner outer CV joints, drive shafts or wheel bearings. But one cannot rule out that is is stabilizer, anti roll bar as well. But often those parts do not tend to provoke a "wheel lock up" like feeling. But really bad CV joints and/or really bad wheel bearings might do that. I suggest you get car up on stands and do a thorough inspection, both physically and looks. I have of course ruled out that you recently had a diagnose with advanced code reader? That is of course the very first thing to do no matter what symptoms one gets 🙂 It is no good that this was done last week, month or before this actual symptom you are experiencing right now 😊 Hope you get it sorted out in the end. VAG cars can be a pain to fault find without a proper diagnose tool. Vcds or obd11 are the 2 affordable tools that has industry leading tech and are officially supported by VW group besides Odis. Are of course other brands, but not as good and accurate as VCDS/OBD11 when it comes to user interface similar to ODIS (factory tool) imho....

Oh, my mistake, typo. CV joint, not cc 😅

Hmm, well, that opens up a wide array of possibilities 😄 Pre condition: All bolts are tightened to specs on wheels, axle nut and bolts on/in/around knuckle. Checked your wheel bearing for tear and wear? What about your inner/outer drive shaft joints? They are also prone to wear and tear and will cause both rattling, humming sounds and even a lockup might happen since inner outer cv joints have ball bearings inhouse. My take now since it happens during hard left/right turn during acceleration is: cc joints inner or outer 😅

Rear reducer must be exhaust. Rattling from that could be connected to bad exhaust mountings or faulty, sloppy job? The exhaust must come down to access the haldex clutch plates. Could also be that the exhaust connection joint is somewhat misplaced so they touch the frame during acceleration? Easy fix, just undo bolts and realign.

As of the issue with source to water. My assumption is that there are only 2 ways water will enter into the rear diff. Either from bad seals or via the venting tubes. My conclusion based on inspection, it was bad seals. If one drives 1000km through rain, wet snow and generally bad norwegian weather for like 12 hours in one leg, as I did. Well, that should be enough to get water inside.

Partnr 1 https://lbmautoparts.com/search?q=503349%2F503310&searchfld= Partnr 2 https://lbmautoparts.com/search?q=LM48510&searchfld= Leaking seal.

@J.R. Hi. My rear diff had water in oil due to a faulty seal rear left side. On inspection of the seal and the rear diff internals there was water and i cannot see where else came from. I will post pics in a minute. Bearing partsnumbers: My rear diff partnr is a: 0BR 525 010B Bearing right and left: www.LBMautoparts.com Partnumber: LM45854/LM48510 and 503349/503310 I opted not to buy pinion ring bearings since that operation is very difficult when it comes to correct distance on mounting. Need very specialtools that I dont have and wont buy. Besides, the pinion bearings are not exposed to same tear and wear as the outer bearings.

Anyway, do fill up the rear diff oil level to specs anyway. It is a good precaution. If you have leaks from the seals, it is likely that you have water inside your rear diff and that is never a good thing. Replacing the whole unit at a dealership will likely cost you more than 4000 GBP, even more as well (norwegian prices for parts and labour). Dealership does not automatically replace races and bearing on the ear diff, ince they are supposed to be sealed "for life". Besides, any repairs done, they have to give assurance that it will not fail again, and that is not a guarantee that dealership will stand by. So, in short; they replace the whole unit (rear diff complete with haldex) as a first measure.

Let's assume that haldex is ok. Then I would check the following that might give similar symptoms: 1. Check the rear ad front flexible discs on the propshaft. (called hardy flexible disc). These are made of rubber inside steel housing and intended to reduce vibration under use. But when they are worn, the rubber will loose from steel frame and cause rattling and/or vibration. 2. Next I would check are the rear differential oil level. If that is low, find the cause. Could be a bad rear diff seal (right and left drive axle). To low on diff oil will destroy your rear diff pretty fast and the solution is to repace whole rear diff. Expensive, very expensive if bought new from dealer. Used are cheaper. If low level, fill up to specs. 3. If oil levels are good and no metallic parts came out after draining and still there is a vibraton humming sound insde cabin during use, well, then I wuld check the bearing races inside the rear diff. But to do that you need do take the whole assebly down and open up the rear diff. It is actually quite easy, but you will need some tools to do it. Well, right/left side has bearings and races. If they are bad, they can be replaced for under 50GBP. If they are bad or worn, well that will make constant humming sounds. Doesn't look like it based on your symptoms though. My guess without inspecting you car would be to check nr 1 and then nr 2. How do I know this? Well yes, you guesed it, I have replaced hardy connection disc, haldex service and inspected the inner races on my rear diff...Its quite a job, but for a serious DYI it is manageable in you own home garage. Just time consuming :-)

Hello! Are you like me, a "certified diy" with hands on almost everyday on cars? Well, I do, and have last 4-5 years used battery tools from Milwaukee. Been serving me well, but now, batteries are gradually dying out, especially since wifey also use tools for her furniture stuff. Milwaukee M12 and M18 are pretty expensive in Norway. Thats why I now also use some air tools from Astro, Race and likely Ingersoll Rand. They are much cheaper to aquire (used) and will last "forever". Since my Milwaukee stuff have been all from high torque impacts to electric ratchets and grinders, it will tale some time to replace. But what I have found, is that a combo between air and battery is ok. On the other hand, I do like air tools a lot. They are powerful, light and handy. Since I replaced my old compressor with a bigger one; a Race 40 from Fini with 100ltr tank, 4hp motor on 400v 3-phases that output 16cfm @6 bar and delivers more than 320ltr/min @8bar, all my air tools really had a power upgrade. So, is it airtools you are using or are you in the process of replacing all airtools with battery? I am actually going from battery to air....

Hehe, I know that status all to well also... But, on the bright side, afyer you tackled this job, the rest is like a walk in the park....an obstacle park....blindfolded....with big f....mittens 🤣🤣

Likely space and to reduse vibration/sounds? Dunno actually, I followed the service manual by the book and disconnected my brain 😆

Guess you mean this alu gasket behind the flywheel?

Well, in the elsawin manual it says "Do not forget to mount the metal gasket..." it believe it is a distance gasket, so I would mount it...but maybe actual VW mechanics in here might provide a more accurate answer...?

Nice one!!! Very well done. Just think about the amount of money saved and experience gained! Try to find the small black plastic thing that is supposed to be on top of the red ring. It is ventilation for diff oil. Should be loosely on when mounted.

A good tip when it comes to skoda DSG. The wetclutch version aka dq250/381 is a keeper. They hold up as long as it is serviced accordingly to specs. Better cooling and withstands tear and wear better than the dq200 dryclutch (most gasonline has dq200 from that age). Also, in order to avoid unneccesary tear and wear on the dmf, use manual shifting when in city with queues. Repeatedly start, stop, slow driving will make the dsg shift often from 1st to 2nd and 3rd gear. That will rapidly wear down the dmf on a dsg. I always use manual in city when I assess that now, it will be lots of crawling. Put it in 1st and let it be there during crawling. It is no problem to use it in 2nd even in high revs up to 2500-3000 if it is for short time, just to avoid it shifting to 3rd when you see that you need to stop again after 20meters... just a tip. I do believe that this is the main reason your mechanic has a lot of his earnings from dsg dmf failures 😆

Yes, unfortunately thats it. I do help friends and colleagues from time to time. But my payment is easy; I learn a new car and they supply me with different service parts I use on my own cars (oil, filters, coolant and other small parts needed). So, find a friend who has a garage to do it in and buy him a 20ltr can of oil as payment 🙂 I am not sure if a gasoline is much cheaper in the long run. Yes, no dpf or egr, but that has more to do with driving style and use. All those who mostly do short trips and city driving should never drive diesel. Electric or gasoline is the preferred option. Diesel cars is basically for those who commute daily more that 40-60min on the highway above 60mph or use it for long distance driving with load imho. But, no rule without exception. We see the same in Norway, there are thousands of diesel cars due to popularity, that now has problems because they have been used as a city daily driver. Those with cars used on the countryside will generally hold up much longer, and by that I mean really much longer. A diesel city car will have problems already before 100'km, and a countrysidecar can last for like 250 000 without egr, dpf, dsg/dmf problems. So, I buy all my cars from preferrably countryside use up north. They dont rust as much due to lack of salted roads and they are not used for short trip/city driving.

Your mechanic is a decent man so definately a keeper. He is right when it comes to costs for one who has to do pay others to fix car. Owning an old car 250 000+km, means that one should do everything in home garage as a hobby or buy a new car when either dsg, bevelbox, dpf, dmf, injectors, 4x shock absorbers fail. Its just way too expensive on a old 250-300'km car. Dsg dmf will fail, when is the question. You will likely hear sounds of a failing dmf. Typical around 150-250'km. This is 3k euro in norway at dealership. Dpf will also fail, depends on the user. I reckon mine will fail within the next 100 000km. My car now has 230 000km. Probably 2k euro for a factory new one. When time comes I will probably just buy a used one for 100-150 gbp and install myself. Injectors, well, probably need fixing. But not so sure that these will fail yet. Again, depends on driving style and conditions. Preventive maintenance to keep a car running is a waste of money if you must let dealership do it. Preventive maintenance is just for all those who has the tools, computers and knowledge to do it in their home garage with access to a car lifter.

Oh, I thought you had that axle shield off and loosened the 2 bolts already..my mistake. But yes, when shield is off, you get access to the 2 last bolts for the bracket yes. Weekend work it is, and struggle is a thing. But once this is done, think of all money saved and You have tackled one of the toughest jobs on this car!!

I have both vcds unlimited hex-v2 and obd11 nextgen pro plan. I recommend both. They do all that is needed for a VAG, Skoda, audi. Obd11 is my go to due to size

@wilcopshot so, dmf fixed/replaced mate? All according to plan?

Nice to know. Did align my ATV once, and it was a pain due to running around all the time adjusting. Probably my nemesis when it comes to car repairs. After that I take all precautions to avoid the need for alignment. If I have to, well, thats the one thing I actually let the workshop do. A 4-wheel alignment/adjusting cost approx 130 GBP here in Norway.

Here are the pins I am using. VW T10096 I believe is the correct ones for your car. https://www.ebay.com/itm/144224199219?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=J4A9zjIQQnq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=0QZxub5gQRy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Very time consuming 😆😆

https://m.autodoc.co.no/hazet/19418422 Here is hex key I got