BlueWagon

Id ditch the AI mate. It just makes stuff up that sounds like what you want to hear

That would be great Thanks Very much appreciated

Ha ha Yep Kinda lazy motor but it never overheats and it pulls a heap all day long of I ask it to

Just check the actual change interval. While mine is not a diesel (1.4TSI) i only did my T belt at 300,000km. You may get a bit more out of the old one yet.

Gearbox or differential bearing

https://www.team-bhp.com/news/diy-retrofitting-adaptive-cruise-control-my-2016-skoda-octavia-mk3?amp Try this as a star

There is a 3rd shorter lever for the cruise control. I suspect you need to buy this and the associated wiring loom, then the software update etc Probably easier to buy a car with factory cruise control

It's a small engine. De rate the power (remove tune) and it will probably be fine

It is a bit compared to older less highly strung (read less overfueled) engines. I have a 4.2L diesel that does 130hp...but can pull Christ off the Cross all day long and not overheat. All about fuel delivery. Tune for more hp = more fuel = more heat. Needs bigger radiator and oil cooler.

Mostly agreed However, is the oil pump electrically primed (would make sense in vehicles with stop start to maintain oil pressure). Or Is this instance of a stored / past fault. Hell, id change the oil straight out if you haven't already just to rule it out for the sake of 40 bucks

Is it something to do with oil being too higher viscosity? Piston cooling sounds like oil jets, so maybe try a thinner oil (specifically the cold viscosity) see if that helps the cold starting error problem

Yeah. Who would have thought the VW engineers designed a way to reduce vibration transfer..... Are you going to replace with proper engine mount or just tolerate it

So its the charge air cooler. Remove EGR bypass too confirm that isn't leaking would be the next step yeah Interesting the turbo makes enough pressure to overcome the coolant, but I guess it runs about 10-12psi boost so probably on par with cooling system. No doubt a bit of coolant get leaked into intake charge and burned. Hopefully not too expensive to fix. Really, if you are skint you could almost keep the bypass in and tolerate the reduced preformance without the cooler doing anything. Maybe for a while anyhow.

Come back at 40,000, or say 140,000. I think the complex procedure is about maintaining the long service intervals. Eg 300,000km belt change interval. I would agree that this will probably work in most cases, but its a bit of a botch job. Cam timing may drift a bit due to inherent tension imbalance between the cam pulleys and crank etc. Also, by loosening the pulleys and tightening the belt before unlocking the cams, you are ensuring the tension is consistent or at least correctly distributed around its length. By doing this, they can run the cam belt out to 300K no worries, probably even longer. Remember many cam belts had 100k or even 60K intervals (thinking Opel Corsa from early 2000s.) Probably more importantly, change the idler. The bearing in the idler is the most common failure I have seen. Obviously junks the belt thus engine when they fail

I wouldn't if the fans work and aren't noisy (bearing noise). Mid range maybe ok, or look at a more reputable brand on Skoda part net