dieselV6

Thanks for the link, though I think in this case a correctly sized gel or alu badge is the sensible choice, at least when compared to the "Danish airbag massacre" :p described in the PDF, or to the EUR90 option of getting a new cover (and still messing a lot with the airbag). Gel badge is lightweight and unlikely to cause injury if airbag is deployed. Edit:what is the exact size of Superb's steering wheel logo? If it is indeed 45mm, I found 4 for lower price on Ebay.

Let us know if the badge fits, this is the only green badge remaining in my car, I even considered fitting a 60mm wheel sticker there, far less expensive but a bit too large and would require some careful foam padding underneath.

Finally, a UK spec Skoda that has all options I need, including cloth upholstery with heated seats, RRP and heated windscreen.... but missing the 190bhp / 6spd manual engine/gearbox combo in SE trim. :no: As soon as Skoda UK adds 190bhp diesel to SE trim, I'm off to take a test drive, hopefully they will come to their senses, even if it takes a few years to get there, like with Rapid pricing/spec. Until then (likely at Mk3 face lift, so 3-5 years from now), I'll stick to my trusty 9 years / 140k miles old Mk1 Superb Comfort V6 TDI / 6spd manual, seems faster and more reliable than recent Skoda productions Edit: And I did add the free rear window wiper, in case you wondered

Stop bashing the manual V6 TDI! :p I've had one for over 9 years now 138k miles on the clock, aside from Bilstein B6 shocks, EBC Yellow brakes and 3 CV boots it required only DIY servicing incl timing belts (next belt change this month). The car still comfortably does 140mph sustained on autobahn (last 2 trips I was in a hurry, so I checked it very thoroughly ). And believe me, once you spend some time driving a 6-cyl, every 4-cyl will appear to you tractor-like and underpowered in Superb-sized car. As an aside, while I like my Superb very much and intend to keep it at least for 15 years / 200k+ miles in total, it is not a car that I would buy used, no matter what engine. The reasons are water ingress (was it stopped in time by the previous owner?) and a lot of galvanic as well as "regular" corrosion around engine and suspension that is making repairs difficult (if left untreated, a can of zinc spray per service on average is about enough to prevent). For example, a couple of weeks ago while replacing rear brake discs and pads I noticed that rear bump stops rotted out and split. Local GSF had them in stock, I had spare rear suspension bolts and actually wanted also to replace top shock mounts for some time, so the job should be simple enough, right? Wrong, despite zinc protection for past ~6 years and plenty of PlusGas used, I still had to cut one of the lower shock absorber mounting nuts with a Dremel as it would not otherwise let go. I doubt I'd even get to turn the bottom shock absorber nuts had they not been protected.

It looks to me like the timing belt season has just started :p . I have just ordered all bits for my Superb's V6 TDI belt job, parts alone added up to nearly £300, even after discounts. Though I did order the full Contitech cambelt kit with hydraulic tensioner, rather than just a minimum set of rollers, belt and the spring tensioner. 5L G13 (TripleQx) , injection pump belt, 2 aux belts and the ripoff airco belt tensioner (does not last, and costs £25-£40 new) made up the rest. I already had the water pump and the thermostat on the shelf as I had decided not to fit them during the first belt job in 2010. The car is over 9yrs old, 138k miles and still drives like new, so I might as well do the job properly and enjoy a few more years of Superb motoring :sun: . Though I think it'll take 2-3 afternoons to replace all bits on the engine, last time it took me ~8hrs in total, without the water pump/thermostat. Locking tools cost me £110 back in 2009.

Looks to me like there's a bigger turbo on 190bhp.

Anything VW spec 505.00, 505.01, 506.01 or 507. I prefer thicker 5W40 oils as I often run the engine at close to full power.

Sealey TP69 is better than Pela 6000, as you can truly pump it single handed without dismantling the pump/bottle joint. I had Pela prior to Sealey and although Pela did the job, Sealey is better. Do not worry about sludge etc, so long as the oil is warm, all will come out, plus you can get more by vacuuming oil filter housing afterwards.

Factory "Sunset Glass" is comparable price, and likely much more durable, as it is different glass, with colour locked inside one of the laminate layers, as opposed to plastic foil stuck to the inside of the window.

Quite useful IMHO, especially on long trips. My kids really appreciated it in the last 2 Skodas we bought. Also, at least on older Skodas the "Sunset Glass" option made the car quieter at speed, as the non-darkened glass had fewer laminate layers. Might not be the case now, though.

On the Octavia 1.9TDI (with the problem gasket), the leak was entirely through overflow. On the Superb 2.5TDI (just expansion tank replaced, fixing the problem), both overflow and cap threads had coolant residue on them. In any case, that tank is far cheaper than the gasket job, ~20 times?

Below freezing and starting from cold, probably yes, 0W30 will flow better. Above freezing it is not as clear cut as e.g. at 40degC 5W30 oils can actually flow better than 0W30 ones, even from same manufacturer. This is due to additives in 0W oils specifically targetting lower viscosity at extremely low temperatures. I'd say in the UK 5W30 still works out better.

1) could still be the vessel, it's cheap to replace and best point to start (replacement complete with cap). However, given that it is a 1.9TDI, my bet is on 2) 2) yes, an overheated head gasket will slowly deteriorate and leak exhaust under high engine load. Happened to me on 1.9TDI Octy, after TB job and coolant not refilled correctly with airlock in the engine head. Ended up replacing the gasket (and another TB job) a year later. 3) possibly, but more likely it is 2) as head gasket leaks are quite common on old 1.9 TDIs.

The only point of using 0W30 is if you drive in extreme cold, the spec 0W30 has to meet is pretty much same as for the 5W30, except 0W-30 flows as well at -35degC as 5W-30 at -30degC. So unless you are planning a quick Easter trip far into Polar Circle :p , 0W30 won't really make much difference.

They're still not 16" (S), or as a last resort 17" (SE), given slightly larger wheels than Mk1/Mk2. Roads have not improved since my Mk1 purchase...

Just had a look at the pricing and the spec, and unfortunately the usual SUK's logic of "you can only get a 190bhp engine with uncomfortable and quick-wearing leather, rock hard bling 19" wheels/tyres, and a ton of unwanted gadgets" seems to apply. I'll pass for sure until S/SE trims allow the 190bhp engine... or will source the car from elsewhere when the time comes. Shame

...or 1 size taller profile all-weather tyres :p

MAF sensor on air intake pipe likely disconnected, or the mechanic ripped the wires inside when lifitng top of airbox to replace air filter. Look at the pipe from airbox to turbo, MAF is there.

Rear wiper as an option for taxis / town driving would be nice.... Mk1 Octy had optional rear wiper.

Hi, as in topic, I need the part number for plug that connects to DPF pressure sensor on a 1.6TDI CR diesel (engine code CAYC). I also need a part number for a matching socket housing and the various seals/repair wires that go with both. Help with these part numbers will be much appreciated. In case you wonder, I want to have a good look what my DPF pressure sensor is reporting without damaging any wires, basically I want to make a "DPF pressure sensor extension cord" so I can tap off the voltage. I have just carried out post winter oil change due to fuel in oil at 3.36k miles. Yes, the car is run on a lot of short trips, but the engine did not put any fuel into oil over spring-autumn 2014. Edit: Found the plug number, 3D0 973 703 and the repair wires 000 979 131 E. So now all I need is a matching socket + repair wires and seals - please help.

I would keep it till mileage, it looks good. 4/5 years replacement recommendation is VAG UK stealership brainwash

The old test is indeed worthless, frankly the new one has been in the works for quite some time, but manufacturer's vested interests prevent any joint agreement. Put simply, manufacturers would have to present new cars with far worse set of numbers than the ones they replace - not good for sales. But if the new test results somehow do make it into car brochures, I for one look forward to being able to look up fuel consumption above 80mph, as well as more realistic numbers for urban fuel economy.

I'm 6ft5in, 38" legs, and the only cars that let me drive comfortably in the Skoda range are Mk1 Superb (very good), Octavia Mk2 (best) and Octavia Mk3 and the Rapid (both adequate). Roomster, Fabia 1/2, Superb Mk2 and Yeti are OK-ish but not great. Will have to try Mk3 Superb in the flesh to see if it is any better/worse. Console and door card shape have at least as much to do with this as the legroom or seat shape. Anyway, I still hope the pricing in the long run (facelift Mk3?) will come down to earth, otherwise I'll have to consider Ford/Mazda/Korean cars once my Mk1 Superb is gone. The trend for stuffing the cars with redundant electronic gizmos might be great for people whose cars are extension of their social status (among other things), but I have always been predominantly looking for comfort, value for money and reliability on a 2000mile+ round trip at any time of the year, that might also involve autobahn. A decent engine, long wheelbase, full size spare, spacious boot with hatch and just enough gadgetry for the car to be useable in most weather and driving conditions. ABS/ESP, heated seats and windscreen (or aux heater), basic cruise control (adaptive CC's stalk is an anti-tall-driver item again), headlamps switchable to flat beam (or RHD-LHD), parking sensors and a basic sound system just about complete the mandatory equipment list, the rest is just for show, as are the 19" rims with skinny tyres. Just my own view, but then I pay for the cars with my own money.

In my opinion, Mk1 2.5TDI V6 manual gearbox wins over a diesel Mk2 in refinement, and certainly over Mk2 in comfort for tall drivers (Mk2 console "bites" in the leg). However, My Mk1 is 9 years old and 132k+ miles, and I doubt I'd want to keep it past 15y.o. so at some point a replacement must be considered. Mk2 hatchback looks were not great, Mk3 to me looks as good as Mk1, and at least in the European range there is a sensible 190bhp 6-spd manual diesel option. Plus the "normal" hatchback tailgate does wonders to loading/unloading effort, I prefer it to both sedan (Mk1) and estate (Mk2, Mk3) options. Whether I will get the Mk3 will largely depend on pricing and spec. If the basic trim (55-60 profile tyres, heated seats, cloth or velour, either aux heater or heated windscreen, cruise control) is available with 190bhp diesel and 6spd manual gearbox for a 20k - 25k new, I might be tempted at some point over the next 6 years. As a motorway/autobahn mile muncher, it'll be hard to beat on value for money. But something tells me that SUK will again set an insane RRP on this model, let's hope I am proven wrong.

Colour has nothing to do with notifying, you do not change height etc you just put better shocks. I had yellow Konis on RIP Mk1 Octy and nobody complained after it was rear ended and written off. B4s are good shocks and much cheaper, just do not expect massive improvement. The difference B4s to B6s with same stock springs is ~45mph vs ~55-58mph on a "test road" near where I live. But if you do not want to invest in the old car (quite understandable), B4s are the way. You only need new springs if old ones are corroded, damaged, or if they sagged and e.g. rear sits lower to the ground than front (or there are ground clearance issues). B6s are slightly better fit for an old car as each provides 25kg of spring force, so lifts each corner somewhat (100kg total).