dieselV6

For the past 22 years, I have always stuck to Skoda Auto belt servicing intervals, ie distance based belt change, no 5yr time limit (that was Skoda UK "invention"). Skoda Auto might have had 10 years limit on I think 1 car (don't remember which one it was, sorry). Took a lot of flak for this on this very forum for publicising the fact that SUK invented their own service schedule contradicting Skoda Auto, but it seems the 5yr nonsense is finally going away. From direct experience of1.6TDI CAYC engine, you may need to replace the belt much earlier if the water pump starts leaking (I think ~6 years on this one), and on 2.0TDI CUNA engine, after 8 years, one of the timing belt rollers starts making noise from time to time, even though mileage is low for a timing belt. Not enough to replace it yet, but might think about it in a year or 2. Having replaced 4 belts in total on 3 different Skodas (3 at Skoda Auto mileage, 1 for the leaky WP), all of them were in pristine condition at replacement time, so for me the timing belt replacement should be called water pump, timing rollers and tensioner replacement, and the belt is just an extra on top 🙂 So in summary, if it ain't broke, don't fix it until Skoda Auto belt servicing schedule recommendation (as in 140k miles or whatever), but if the water pump leaks, replace WP and the belt/rollers/tensioner while you are at it, it's the same job.

Rough idle when cold could easily be due to worn out glow plugs, or glow plug circuit not functioning correctly. Compression issues, eg due to partly worn out rings or cracked pistons, also manifest themselves more often from cold. Could be also other reasons like faulty sensors. I'd replace injectors last, not first. What I would do is first a VCDS/OBD2 code check, often there is an error code pointing to why the engine is unhapy. If there are no error codes then glow plug test, or if glow plugs never replaced then glow plug replacement together with compression test, first on hot engine (glow plugs need to be taken out on hot engine anyway), then compression test again on cold engine. Compression test tool is cheap, screws in place of a glow plug.

undo the fuel filter mounts, 3x torx screws (no need to disconnect hoses nor ground cable nearby), move fuel filter out of the way a little and there is enough access for this job and all other headlamp bulb replacement jobs. On the passenger side, undo the battery and shift it towards centre of the car, same effect.

I second skoda-parts.com, very good service, good quality parts with credible non-OEM alternatives. I do use autodoc from time to time, if you know exactly what you want, it is a good source of inexpensive parts and what you order is exactly what you get, at least so far for me. The trouble is you really cannot rely on the list of components produced for each oem part number typed into autodoc search to provide you with exact like for like replacement for the oem part. But if you know exactly what you want (as in from which company, ideally also with manufacturer's number as well as VW/Skoda number), e.g. brake discs can be had much cheaper, and with premium (geomet) coating, there is also much wider selection of e.g. tailgate gas struts and airco components. Skoda-parts is much more reliable in this respect,e.g they will show you Bosch injectors at a third of the price alongside exactly the same Bosch injectors with VW/Skoda number on them. Plus you can filter parts quite well by the car's VIN number. Back to the topic of glow plugs, I have been using NGK glow plugs for some 10 years now on 3 Skodas so far, including the vRS, the NGK ones heat up faster, glow hotter, and last at least just as long as OEM Beru ones, plus they take less current, though this was biggest difference on older models, like 2.5TDI V6. For plugs without sensor and the 2.0TDICR as in all Octavia vRS TDI engines, I think latest part number is Y1002AS or 8926, they are widely available, though on my last change I have used older parts Y-609AS 5849 on both the 2.0TDI CUNA and the 1.6TDI CAYC. For the pressure sensor plug, I always get the VW/Skoda part, last 2 from skoda-parts. Note that the single pressure sensor glow plug will be 3x-4x the price of all 3 remaining glow plugs... VW price gouging. Always replace glow plugs on fully warmed up engine, and do not exceed maximum undoing torque (2-way click torque wrench is helpful), if they don't go out at max torque, put some engine oil around the plug, try a couple of times more then leave it for a week of driving, a few thermal cycles plus the oil will loosen it up. Usually, what snaps the glow plugs is trying to undo them at too high torque on engine that is too cold. More info here

My 2012 Roomster does have compressor with integrated magnetic clutch, mine is 5N0820803E. There were lots of compressors on the Roomster, including scroll ones, it seemed like a parts dump model in this respect. I think Denso ones are scroll, and Sanden ones are clutch, but I may be wrong. On earlier models, eg mk1 Octavia, the clutch and the coil pack were visibly separate to the compressor, this was not the case anymore on models with integrated clutch, but as far as I am aware, mine still a magnetic clutch model. It feels like one when you press ac button (sudden jerk on the belt), and a quick look at autodoc shows quite a few magnetic clutch replacement plates for this particular compressor part number, absent from other compressor models. The Roomster's compressor runs all the time when a/c button is on, unless freezing/overpressure etc. The Mk3 Octavia one does not pressurize coolant circuit unless HVAC controller demands cold air, at least in the default coding (compressor not enabled when not cooling). Freezing cold air to get water out then heating it back up again is pretty much like every compressor type dehumidifier works, and so keeping the compressor running will result in dry air being fed into cabin. Not sure why it would stop demisting, if anything, cold air with water removed heated back up/mixed with hot air = way drier air, so if anything, demisting would be even faster. All I can say on the topic is that with the byte 13 option enabled (compressor on when not cooling), my car is way drier, or rather acceptably dry when used infrequently, and also when used on a long trip in rainy/very wet weather at outside temperature around cabin temperature. This was very much not the case until I have enabled that "compressor on when not cooling" option. Even with compressor on, it still modulates the output on the vRS, so the only difference is that evaporator is always cold and collecting water from incoming air, if it's cold outside, there's not that much heat transfer occuring anyway. I guess the compressor also shuts down around freezing.

....Bear in mind I have 2 cars, and Roomie does not want to keep the ac going unless it's on (older style compressor), so my remark on seals, valves and compressor still applies. But for both cars, including my Mk3 OCtavia vRS, it's the humidity that forces year round use of a/c for me. Neither car is garaged, and if you forget using airco in winter for a while, both would start to feel/smell like a moldy damp sofa after a month or so. Regarding HVAC coding, I think there are 2 options, "use in humid countries" or "humidity control/" or the like (I think byte 14 x8 and x4), and the other which I found made more difference was byte 13 "compressor on when not cooling" because then obviously it dries out incoming air. I have actually disabled the byte 14 x8 option and switched to x4 which also does something on demisting (don't remember VCDS description exactly, just have my coding noted), for me the byte 13 change made all the difference I needed. Note it does increase fuel consumption, but only in line with what previous Skoda's did, i.e. if the AC is switched on, the compressor keeps the evaporator at near freezing, that's all.

Could be water in headlamp unit, dry it out with a hairdryer or similar to make sure this is not the reason. The code needs to be cleared before retesting.

I have my a/c on all the time. Humiditiy control in winter is the main reason, another is that a/c compressor, valves and seals tend to live much longer if you do not keep airco off for several months in winter. Note that I have had to change coding on the airco control unit to make sure humidity is controlled as well as in my previous Skodas. The default settings are so eco-friendly, that the AC is automaticlaly off as soon as internal temperature can be controlled with (often damp) air from the outside. So by default, temperature control is good, but humidity control is inadequate.

If the keys become mismatched, unlock the car with a working key, then turn on ignition with the non working key and that often resolves the issue. If it is still not resolved, press a button on the non-working key, e.g door open button, and keep it pressed for a while until the car can match the sequence being sent. Of course with Kessy, turning on ignition with a different key becomes problematic, but you could try e.g. pressing door open/close button on the problematic keycard (once the car is unlocked with the functioning key). In theory, you can also match keys on a locked car by pressing the door open button on the key for long enough, but to be honest this has never worked out for me, so cannot say for sure. I have had mismatched keys a couple times in the past on 2 cars, once because of not using one key for many years, and another time after replacing the keyfob battery. In general, a lot of things requiring security code tend to resolve themselves or at least are much easier to resolve once ignition is on, not just keyfob issues but also e.g. radio code issues.

OEM part numbers for estate: Without hybrid drive nor variable boot floor: Double sided mat (rubber/textile) 3P0061163 Plastic boot dish: 3P3061162 With hybrid drive or variable boot floor: Double sided mat (rubber/textile) 3P0061163A Plastic boot dish: 3P0061162A OEM part numbers for hatchback: Double sided mat (rubber/textile): 3P3061163 Plastic boot dish: 3P3061162 Not sure about a hatchback with hybrid drive, if it takes regular, estate mats, or no mats for it yet, as ETKA does not refer to it specifically (yet). All available e.g. at skoda-parts.com straight out of Czechia, though the boot dish variety seemingly cannot be shipped to the UK. At least if my past experience with these kind of parts is to go by, probably cheaper and faster to be delivered than a direct order at my local (UK) dealers, even with shipping. So if you are after double sided boot mat, I'd try the link above. For the boot dish, I'd go to the dealer.

Unless there is an exhaust sensor issue triggering false regens, frequent regens = lots of soot going into the DPF, so likely poor combustion that could be due to injector issue / leak, lack of compression issue, mistiming (eg timing belt jumped a tooth or has not been replaced properly), valvetrain issue. Hard to tell without further inspection of the engine, but I'd start with these.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/527036-climatronic-blower-stopped-working-how-much-of-dashboard-needs-to-be-removed/ There are also Fabia dashboard removal videos on YouTube and posts on this forum which may help, 2007 Roomster dashboard removal matches Fabia Mk1 dashboard removal.

Roomster engines frequently came with dodgy injectors, ours included, though ours is a diesel. I have only replaced a couple injectors after 1 failed (electrical failure), and this got rid of 10yr issue of fuel ingress into oil. Yes, new injectors, be it petrol or diesel are pricy (diesel ones 5x more than petrol), but if you look at used car market what alternatives and engines you have to the Roomster and at what price, the new injectors are well worth it in today's market in my opinion. The key question you should be asking is why does the garage want £700 to replace them? A quick look at my (reliable parts and) injector suplier from Czechia (skoda-parts.com) shows prices of EUR70 / GBP60 for a brand new Bosch 1.2TSI petrol engine injector, at this price I'd replace all of them. My guess is you were quoted Skoda original part prices, do not get these, they are Bosch injectors anyway. So my guess is you can easily reduce the repair cost by half by going to an independent garage that can get you exactly the same Bosch injectors as Skoda would supply and fit them

Z-beam is beam that when you project it on the wall 5-10m away from the car has 2 flat sections per headlamp, a raised section for the kerbside illumination and a main section for the road. So there is still a kick-up, but it is limited. This is currently dominant beam shape for most cars in UK / Europe, UK one is in the picture on the right.. Flat beam only has a single flat section from left to right, much like a foglight, but the beam is narrower than foglight and more intense. Mk1 Octavia/Mk1 Superb/Mk1 Roomster had Z-beam headlamps that you can switch to flat beam by flipping a switch inside headlight. Crucially, the hotspot remains in the centre so road lighting is very good even on the "Euro" setting. Example of flat beam on an American car, no kickup, just a single flat cutoff, but notice hotspots in the centre: Many/most "adaptive" headlamps for cars sold in the UK only produce Z-beam, for Europe dip the Z-beam down and move it to the right on UK cars, resulting in hotspot in the roadside hedge and far worse performance abroad, no matter how good the lights are otherwise. I have Octavia 3 vRs with AFS HIDs and it does "Europe setting" just like most LEDs in the manner described above. Even with uprated HID inserts, compared to Mk1 Superb flat beam, the road lighting when travelling in Europe is average to poor. It was excellent with Mk1 Superb flat beam. In the UK, the very same Mk3 vRS AFS HID lamps are otherwise excellent... I do not have matrix headlights, and that is exactly why I ask if anyone could project the lights on the wall when on Euro setting and post a photo. After the mk3 AFS HID fiasco, I probably won't buy another car unless it has flat beam capability or full LHD/RHD beam switch. Unfortunately, what seems to be going on both in the UK and in Europe is selling headlamps that work for one market only, for certification / profit / can't be bothered / (insert your own reason) reasons...

Is this really the case, i.e. have you actually checked it? Because it seems the dealers are dead set on convincing everyone that a z-beam is a flat beam, despite z-beam being far, far worse to drive at night outside the UK. I really would like a picture of the headlight beam shone against a wall about 5m-10 from the car, if someone could post it. I am pretty sure all VW/Skodas till at least 2018 came with Z-beam, meaning there is a kick-up on the kerb side, just a limited 2deg kick up. And when going abroad, you need to either turn the headlights 2deg down or if you have AFS etc, they turn right and dip down. The end result is a very well illuminated kerb side hedge about 20m-50m in front, but poor road lighting otherwise when compared with the very same headlights used in the UK. The last cars I know of that had true flat beam setting for Europe (no kick up of any kind, but no need to dip down either), were projector headlight Mk1 / MK2 cars, Superb, Fabia / Roomster and Octavia all had true flat beam so long as the headlamp was a projector unit and not a reflector. All these were very good in Europe, but non-hid versions could do with light intensity upgrade.

I guess I have to answer my own question while waiting for the new blower and control unit to arrive... 🙄 You 'only' need to take out top glove comparment (2x T25 screws), then take out 3x T30 screws and remove passenger airbag, undo all dashboard to carrier screws on the passenger side (there's one under airbag, I think 2 on the side, and I think 2 at the bottom), lever off media unit surrond and remove media unit (4 screws), undo centre console media unit surround (4 screws at least, big piece of plastic), and loosen but not remove all accessble dashboard screws on the driver side (2 on the side uder side dashboard cover, 2 for the fuse box I think). Not sure about top vents, I had them removed for a different reason (some cabling work around them), but they many not need to be removed. Best to support / pull away the dashboard cover away from work area, next to the console, so it does not interfere with work on the blower motor. Crucially, the steering wheel and the instrument cluster need not be removed, and the passenger airbag need not be disconnected right until the fan is being manouvered out from under the dashboard. It is prudent to switch off the passenger airbag using a key switch on the side of dashboard before you start any of this work. Bear in mind that airbag switch does need to be disconnected right before you remove/instert the blower unit. Official guidance is disconnect battery before any of this, you're on your own but I got away with disconnecting the switch (already in off position) and reconnecting it promptly out of the dashboard side. After all this, there are 2 pieces of thick felt to be removed, one of which is partly glued to the carrier and the blower and may contribute to early blower failures as it covers fan motor housing. I intend to skip the glued one on assembly, perhaps I will put a thinner felt further away from the blower motor. Disconnect the plugs at the fan and at the control unit, I found the fan one was difficult / welded together?, the control unit one was less accessible but popped out more easily. The fan itself is held by 5 screws and the control unit by another screw that is accessed blindly / by touch. You either need electric screwdriver with a long flex extension and I think a T15 to undo these, or a short T15 key and dexterity of a small monkey. The blower motor pops out without a fight, but you need some effort to manouvre it out from under the dashboard. I have checked the fan and the control unit. The fan was taking well in excess of 32Amps so way too much and while the control unit appeared to work just fine with a 5Amp load, but it struggled even with a 15A load. so I ordered replacements for both. Depending on your choice of parts, replacing these costs 60 - 100 quid total (my bill was £90 for parts from reputable supplier), unless you go to Skoda then 300 -500 quid... After that, order a new fan and control unit, and grow new skin on your arms until it arrives 😜 Estimated time to do all this assuming you have the right tools is ~4hrs to dismantle (perhaps 2hrs if you follow this guide) and I think 2hrs to put together. HTH the next person 😀

Hi, the fresh air blower stopped working in my 2012 Roomster. Fuses and the Climatronic unit are both OK, though I get the code as below. The service manual says it is a dash out job to replace the blower and/or the control unit, but I saw on youtube that people remove left hand side dashboard bolts but only loosen the right hand side. So my question is what is a minimum dashboard dismantle effort to get that blower motor replaced? Has anyone here on the forum done this job without touching the radio and instrument cluster, just dismantling the glove box / airbag area of the dashboard? 01273 - Fresh Air Blower (V2) 000 - - - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00100000 Fault Priority: 3 Fault Frequency: 6 Reset counter: 229 Mileage: 160955 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2063.14.31 Time: 17:32:53

I did code front+rear DRLs using VCDS some years ago, I remember that it was a bit involved, and included coding several "channels" or functions for each of the taillights, then setting the dimming level. there are threads on Ross Tech and other forums, https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/17426/ My preference is front + rear DRLs (rears dimmed compared to normal taillight operation but still visible) and 5x brake lights, but then 2 of my Skodas have been rear-ended...

Full size 17in "winter" alloy ("Crystal" Skoda original accessory for Mk3 Octavia incl vRS) carrying 205/55R17 tyre (that's actually a larger, Scout tyre diameter) fits just fine in the spare wheel well, including additional ~8mm acoustic insulation lining the spare wheel well and another 10mm insulation on top. Worth thinking about if you want to have same spare as all other wheels on the car.

You have to check front disc size on the actual car, earlier diesel vRS came with 340mm brakes, certainly in 2016 they were only 312mm brakes. Not sure at which point the size has changed. I like ATE ceramic pads, then EBC yellowstuff (road, not track).

Sometime ago (years now), Castrol had a bad batch of fluid, they claimed it works fine but turns this black hen hot. Replace the fluid. Or if you're happy with Castrol's assurances that it's not a problem as such, but still want clean fluid in the bottle, take out the sieve, drain the fluid out from the bottle and clean out the bottle, repeat every few weeks until no longer an issue.

I have just had a look at the new Superb L&K at a local dealer. Most things seem done right, as they should be, given the price, there is even space for full sized spare in the boot if you change wheels to sensible tyre aspect ratio ones. However, after spending about 5min behind the steering wheel and really trying to convince myself that I would not notice the botched instruments panel (panel shape does not match the dashboard cutout) in everyday use, I gave up and decided that the next time I am looking at the Superb (to replace my 2016 Octavia vRS) is after the facelift of the dashboard. Why, Skoda? Incidentally, there was a Kodiak next to the Superb with the very same instruments panel but a matching dashboard cutout, and to me it looked very well.

Usually if it is cable/plug it is one inside the headlight unit, below the bowl. The control unit is at the bottom of the headlamp (underneath), with connector fed to the inside of the headlamp. That's where moisture can settle and cause poor connection or even a short. I did not observe low battery voltage affecting AFS.

Does not have to be motor or sensor failure. Check for moisture in the headlight, move the cables inside headlight about, also the plugs inside (bottom one under light unit is where water can settle), use hair dryer if there is moisture. Most importantly, check position of the thick cable to the ballast, Sometimes it prevents movement of the light unit. I have had on my car the cable problem after replacing the HID bulbs and putting one cable back with an extra twist, and the moisture in headlight problem after accidentaly leaving rear cap part open. Codes need to be cleared for retest. HTH

In the past, for the problem you describe, the solution was to mechanically advance basic injection timing by 1-2deg. Even though actual timing is electronically controlled, at the point when you start the engine what matters is that fuel is injected within 0.5deg of full compression. I had exactly the symptoms you describe on Mk1 Superb and adjusted the injection timing ~2 deg ahead, it was still within Skoda spec but after that the car started every time within 0.5s from turning ignition on for the next 12 years (1 glow plug swap in between after ~8 years / 120k+miles). The adjustment was on 3 screws on the gear pulley, just loosen screws, rotate pulley wrt mount, tighten screws, recheck basic timing, you needed VCDS / OBD11 or similar to monitor basic timing. Unfortunately, looking at the CUNA 2.0TDI timing gear manual, it seems that this simple adjustment is no longer there. Perhaps there is a way to adjust initial timing at startup in VCDS/OBD11?