kokosal

I had similar problem. Upper nut of sway bar link. I went to garage and after 4 hours they did not find it and gave me car back (45 pounds) I discovered it myself by chance after two weeks dismantling things after work 16oo-18oo. Now I know that checking swaybar link pathetic solution in Skoda is time interval service like oil change.

I meant does your 1.6 engine have dual mass flywheel? 😨 My other 1.6 petrol car has dual mass flywheel. Maybe 1.6 BSE has aswell? 😱

No. Engine will not start but you can estimate healt from klik klik.

My heart just skip the beat. What 2005 1.6 engine has that "improvement"? TSI yes?

my AC is not working completely but I dont care. I hate AC, summer is summer but have read that checking list is if fan is spinning together with switching AC LED on and compressor valve is usual suspect blend flap problem hot air leak

replace the display?

Disconnect thick cable and try to start the engine. You will hear the bendix. or extend thin cable and ask another person to break connection. I think its mechanical.

Guys dont look at piston shiny marks. I have put pads in any configuration during experiments, proper, wrong, left wheel, right wheel. I know that kolbenseite should go to the piston. I need dismantle it again and understand what was the poet trying to say while designing that inner spring. I assume he wasnt an idiot. When we expand it with pliers and then slide back into the piston we ruin the holding force.

I will try Brembo and Textar pads. I dont believe in "lose rubber sleeve" theory. Tomorrow is day of the days. I start fight at 8oo. I need some results. Im going to Germany soon. I wonder why I dont have cable for worn brake pad sensor alarm 🙄 Pads comes with cable and socket. Scary movie part 3. Chat gpt told me that peoples solution for rattling is to swap knuckle for 288 disc, removable caliper carrier and caliper with spring here is similar problem

fight with brakes: day 46 any ideas welcomed guys rattling noise inner pad should be that lose?

So it depends on electronics. Semiconductor and temperature right? The hotter the longer? If communication switch --> car is by bus I would go why is there no communication. What supress the bus down. If there are only simple cables from switch to central control I would try to check why there is no voltage around switch. (Im just electronics technician I dont know what is solution chosen by skoda designers) Basic simple things to check: cables in rubber close to hinge and dismantle of drivers door and looking for green monster eating copper😉 I guess that module in drivers door is ill.

I cannot imagine you are not able to undo that bolt. Maybe some Terminator thight it. Torque is not big stretch bolt. "12 point with ribs": 70Nm + 90deg turn, "12 point without ribs": 200Nm + 180deg turn. Maybe he did 200Nm with ribs 😉 More heat close to bearing? hmm 🙄 Use good 3/4 socket King Tony, Proxxon, BGS and T-Handle Socket Wrench 3/4 Inch with steel pipe

lamp has little paddle. Maybe broken and lost. bulb is always connected to +12v Other end is controled by mosfet PWM to the ground.

Did you put smartphone in to check it? LED there = problem. Bulb has very low resistance and works well with the PWM driver. Another problem there is unreliable switch.

red LED needs less than white. What current did you set 10mA or 50mA? You shouldn't touch resistors but check with an old value first. Even all dead white LEDs should not cause red wheel. Maybe you damaged cables to angle sensor?