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Hi all, Just after a quick confirmation. My Mrs Golf MK6 2.0 tdi Match 2011 needed new rear pads & discs. I went to carpartsforless for the bits & was advised I needed a fitting kit (metal shims). When I came to fit them, the current pads had no shims fitted so I didn't bother. I did offer them up but they seemed wrong. Everything seems to have gone back together & is working fine however SWMBO had seem a youtube video where some bloke has fitted some form of shim to a similar looking caliper (although he needed to hammer the pads in place). It seems there are various different rear calipers for the MK6. Attached is a pic of the caliper & the pads. Can anyone confirm that these should or should not have some sort of shim fitted? Thanks in advance

I've also had my Fabia since new in Sept 2004. My passenger door did this a few years back. I tried something similar to above but I hit the door from the outside while operating the handle & the lock/unlock buttons on the remote. It did eventually release after about 15mins or so. I just cleaned it all up &, touch wood, it hasn't happened again. I put it down to the door not being used enough. I now regularly open each door using inside & outside handles. I'm sure this technically has nothing to do with the deadlock mechanism but seemed to work for me.

http://www.autojordao.pt/

I've had this on a 2006 Audi A4, albeit with dual zone climate but both set to the same temperature. A re-gass & a new orifice tube (a type of air con filter/valve) sorted it. I used an air-con specialist who did a pressure test, removed any old gas & changed the origice tube then reapplied the correct amount of gas. At one point I was thinking of regassing air-con myself as it looks easy with one of the kits, but from research I've done this doesn't actually seem the best idea. This is who I used...they are mobile but based in Hythe, Kent so not sure how far they travel. https://subzerouk.co.uk/

Hi all Today I had my car MOT'd at Halfords Tunbridge Wells. When I arrived to collect it I was initially told it had failed due to "someone fitting an aftermarket HID kit." I promptly informed them that it was infact a factory option & pointed out it had the necessary self levelling motors, washers etc. After a bit of a discussion & a check of the beam pattern they did issue a pass seemingly reluctantly. Has anyone encountered similar issues?

Thought I'd update in case this helps anyone else. I popped the b-pillar trim off & checked/cleaned the seat belt yellow connector at the bottom. It all looked ok but since doing it & resetting the light it has stayed off. No pics buts easy enough. Took 10mins.

Any ideas where the loom connections are? Might be worth me checking them. I'm guessing under the drivers door trim or upto behind the dash. Fingerscrossed it's just a connection & not a new seat belt unit

Having done a bit of research looks like I'll need to try removing & cleaning the connection in the B-pillar. I couldn't see a fuse for airbags? Are linked to another circuit?

Hi, does anyone know anything about the faul5lt code 00654? It reads "short to ground" for the drivers seat belt tensioner ignitor. I've tried clearing but it comes back. The seatbelt is still working, the tensioner hasn't fired. Is it a case of pulling off the b-pillar trims to look for any obvious wiring issues?

For comparison here are a couple of before pics from my other cars Bi-Xenons before I changed them to the new projectors & bulbs And after On inspection afterwards the projectors were shot

This has been covered before but there isn't really definitive solution. As these cars are now circa 20years old there's every chance the xenon projectors will be burnt out & tarnished but dirty lenses on the inside or faded/UV outer lenses can also detract from output. Genuine Replacement Obviously the easiest option is to replace, but genuine or even any other aftermarket standard looking RHD projectors can be hard to find. The part numbers are Left 6Y2941015AB 6Y2941015S Right 6Y2941016AB 6Y2941016S When I was looking I couldn't find out what the difference was between AB &S & no one could tell me. I actually ended up getting hold of one which wasn't listed for my car (I can't recall which way round it was) but it worked fine. Convert LHD units Having previously stripped my lights I realised the metal plate in front of the projector bowl is what gives it the kick up to the left on a RHD car. Logically I assumed this is likely to be the only difference between RHD & LHD. I ended up sourcing a genuine RHD N/S head light & took a punt on a LHD O/S unit from Autodoc (or similar). I took the LHD headlight apart and swapped the metal plate over from my original projector to convert from LHD to RHD. It was a perfect fit. Lights reinstalled (plus some PPF applied) & aligned using VCDS. Two MOTs later & all seems good. This also solved the need to clean the inner lens or restore the outer. The light output is certainly very acceptable with new bulbs & correctly aligned. May be no match for a new design of projectors. (On my other VAG ar which came with bi-xenons, I have recently upgraded them to a set of hella G5 & they are amazing. The original projector was probably designed about 20+yrs ago & was well tarnished over time). Other cars From the research I've done, it seems the early 2000s Vauxhall Omega with xenons uses the same projectors & so does Audi A3 8L pre-facelift. Obviously sourcing a second-hand unit will be a gamble on condition. Refinish projector bowls There is the option to strip headlights & send the bowls to be refinished by someone such as... https://dual-metallising.co.uk/ No experience of this but it wasn't going to be cheap & the lights would be off the car for a while while it was done. Upgrade to bi-xenon I didn't come across/consider the next two options until after I sorted mine. There are these two companies who will sell a kit to replace the projectors. These include an adapter bracket & will give bi-xenons, so the shutter will open when the high beam is on so you'll end up with a xenon high beam & the halogen bulb on with high beam which can also he used as a flasher when no lights are on. Please note that the first option means using different bulbs & a converter from the std D2S plug. https://retrofitlab.com/collections/skoda-fabia-6y/products/skoda-fabia-6y-1999-2007-bi-xenon-xenon-headlights https://www.facebook.com/TooDamnBright/ https://youtu.be/ntssBdaAIOg You could also try to get hold of a decent set of projectors such as Morimoto & a universal fitting kit plus some spacers & have a go yourself. Universal fitting kit https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Head-light-Retrofit-Tools-Adapter-Frame-Kit-For-Projector-Lens-Connecting-Plates-/384459784800?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 In my opinion i think the upgrade to bi-xenons combined with refurbishing the lenses would be the best way to go. I'd be keen to keep the D2S bulbs though so the option from Too Damn Bright. With any option new bulbs & alignment would be necessary. You could always swap for std halogen lights as already suggested. Hope this helps

Is anyone able to please confirm if this is the correct power steering fluid for a mk1 Fabia vRS? I got this recently from TPS for another car in the fleet. This stuff is green I saw a video on youtube for a non-vRS & the fluid looked red. Just wondered if anyone knew as the resevoir is underneath the battery so not just a case of unscrewing the cap. Thanks in advance

To answer Ketts question. I'd have a look on powerbulbs.com website. They list loads of bulbs often with the colour temperature listed. You can filter by bulb fitting & best performance or styling. The styling bulbs are generally the more blue or less yellow but can sacrifice overall performance. Worth having a browse This is a quote from the website: Maximum Performance Halogen upgrade products such as OSRAM Night Breaker Unlimited and Philips X-Treme Vision +130 will offer you light increases of up to 130% along with a much greater projection on the road. You'll be able to spot potential hazards on the road ahead more quickly and easily. Shop Maximum Performance bulbs here. Styling Road legal styling bulbs OSRAM Cool Blue Intense will offer you higher colour temperatures to give a whiter light on the road. If you're after a very close colour match to factory-fitted Xenon HID bulbs, Philips Diamond Vision is the perfect choice for you. Please note that due to the colour temperature of 5000K, Philips Diamond Vision is not road legal.

Interesting article here about the French & yellow headlights https://www.connexionfrance.com/Mag/French-Facts/Military-thinking-behind-yellow-headlights

Had mine over 12 years on the stiffest setting. It was on stiffer springs shortly before that. RARB made the biggest difference & does improve the handling. Even when trying to provoke it with a scandi-flick into a wet roundabout you'd have to have fists of ham to not be able to catch or drive out of any oversteer it might produce. Based in this I beefed up the RARB on my RS4. That improved that too but good tyres really matter on that. I've been reading on TT forums that a popular mod on them for track use is to bin the front anti-roll bar. Quote from a Track Focused MK1 TT owner (not me I hasten to add): "Anti roll bars: The TT out of the box wants to understeer – so to help this, you need to increase front grip relative to rear. The way to do this? Upgrade the rear ARB (to one off a Golf R32) – and the front – well, put it in the bin! Yes that’s right – I didn’t quite know wheter to believe the advise form the TT track gurus on the TT track groups online – so I ran one trackday with the front ARB disconnected to see if it was OK – before then having the ARB chopped and binned entirely! The logic is that without a front arb, as you go round a corner, the inside wheel is free to move independently to the outside wheel, and so actually generates more grip. The payoff is a bit more roll – which you would definitely feel on a stock car – but lowered on sufficiently stiff suspension – I couldn’t tell any more roll." Wondered if anyone had tried this on a 'Furby'?

Didn't answer my question but each to their own I guess.

Why would you want to run any 100w spots on a vRS?

Who are the cowboys you're referring too? The OP was just after some advice & help which is what this forum was always about. Having had issues with burnt out projectors in my OEM xenons, I had to look at my options. In removing & dismantling them I noticed a few things which I shared above. It's a shame Briskoda is now not the community it once was.

The beam is flattened by moving the lever on the aluminium plate as mentioned in the earlier posts. I suggested that by flipping the aluminium plate 180 degrees through it's centre axis, may change the kick to be the opposite way. I.e from RHD to LHD on UK Xenons & vice versa. (NB The lever that normally goes towards the rear of the haleadlight unit would then need to be bent back or removed as it would be pointing towards the lens. The holes of the plate align to allow this). The projector bowl itself would remain in it's normal orientation. This is just a theory & may help the OP with his initial query about converting LHD projector units to RHD

On an OEM Xenon, the projector is accessible from the back. Although a couple of the four small nuts that need undoing are very fiddly. A few more photos which may help

If they are anything like the OEM lights you might find an aluminium shield on the projector bowl as mentioned by J.R above. Now, don't hold me to this, but simply swapping this around through 180 degrees might change the LHD to a RHD cut off. This pic is from a genuine RHD OEM projector. Look closely & you'll see the stepped cut off towards to centre. The holes line up to allow the plate to be flipped over. Or, you may find they have a lever that you can flick to flatten the LHD "kick." The lever is in the pic at the 8 o'clock. Moving it moves part of the aluminium plate to eliminate the stepped bit. Hope that makes sense, but remember I'm NOT confirming either will definitely work to change to RHD.

A few your others: Side air bags airbag deactivation switch 3rd centre headrest (rear obviously) Sat nav Not sure how easy any would be to add.

I'm wondering if just swapping the shutter/cut off bit inside would do it. I'd imagine that is the only difference betweem LHD vs RHD

Just looking into this a bit more. Can anybody tell me the difference in the following part numbers? They seem to all be listed for RHD cars? Left 6Y2941015AB 6Y2941015S Right 6Y2941016AB 6Y2941016S Does one supercede the other??