delroy

If you are worried your new seal looks like my old one & very different to the new one, don't be. That old style was discontinued & replaced to the "new" style 21 years ago. (Not sure you can call it "new" style still 21 years later!)

Also as it may help someone, my upper oil cooler seal looked like the one in the picture, not the round o-ring with locating ears on the i side more normally seen in threads about it. I think they are interchangeable though as long as the diameter & thinkness is the same.

Turns out it is a 5 minute break, more persistence, a bit more swearing & the threat of turning to briskoda.net that does the trick.!

Sorry to resurrect an old thread. I'm currently trying to change my crank sensor. Oil cooler is out the way, bolt is out but the sensor won't come out. It turns left & right about 45degrees or so as it hits the surroundings. No amount of wiggling has shifted it. Is there a trick to it or is even more persistence & swearing necessary?

I don't think they can be replaced without taking the bumber off. I think they screw on from above

Standard rear Fabia mudflaps can be fitted to the vRS bumper. It just needs the small lip trimmed off. The shape/profile of the vRS bumper will then slot into the standard Fabia mudflap

Looks about right. They are sided though.The Depo number should be 445 at the start not 444 I think. 445 might actually be on in picture

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/502535-factory-xenon-headlights/#comment-5642170

It might be possible to convert them... https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/490847-converting-headlights-from-lhd-to-rhd/

No worries. The weak beam you first mentioned is likely burnt out projectors bowls as mentioned above. There is no easy fix for this. The self levelling issue is likely one of the reflector ball/socket mounts on the motor has popped off. Over zealous adjusting can cause this (if the headlights aren't set using VCDS to adjustment) - by taking the headlights out & looking at them from behind should identify this & make it more obvious how to pop it back on. I'm not sure how the brightness of a headlight is tested on an MOT or the Portuguese equivalent - I'm guessing it's the testers discretion as there are so many variables with ambient light etc? Good luck

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/502535-factory-xenon-headlights/#comment-5642170 That thread might help a bit

The self levelling sensor is at the back of the car, passenger side on RHD, if this stops working it should throw a fault code/bulb warning. The motors shown above are a common VW part so should be readily available. If thete are no codes or dashboard lights, they are probably working but the ball & socket may have popped off. When I had headlight issues a few years ago I bought a pair & I'm sure they were about £10-£15 each. If there is really a problem with the xenon units, you can swap them with a set of halogen units but the self levelling would need to be working & would need swapping over

Over the years I've had various advisories which haven't been done, only for the following year it not be mentioned Examples include: In 2012 I had 2 advisories about the windscreen - never changed it & hasn't featured again 2015 - an advisory for a noisy wheel bearing, never changed it & 50k miles later still not mentioned again Don't get hung up on it. I had a similar one for brake hoses but i did change them myself. My back box was corroded on the outer skin so I just pulled away the rough looking bits. The antiroll bar links might be worth doing before the next one Also one year my car was going to fail because of the factory fitted xenons - nothing to do with alignment, the garage thought they were modified which isn't allowed. I argued & showed them the original order form & page in the manual which shows the D2S bulb, they then passed it

I don't think they are. I think the fronts tilt whereas the rears don't. I think they are slightly different shapes too. That said, they may well have the same distance between the legs and therefore might "fit" either front or rear.

When I was having issues with the bulb warning light always being on, I also had issues with VCDS not finding the range/level controller. A quick clean of the connector sorted it. Have a look at this thread

I was thinking of replacing the housing too from other posts. Thanks for the info. I was thinking I was going mad when I looked & couldn't see it.

Recently my temp guage hasn't always been getting up to or staying at 90° From what I gather the thermostat might be on the way out as its possibly sticking. I've tried searching but cant find where exactly is it on a vRS (ASZ)? A photo would be great 👍 Thanks in advance

The outer skin on my back box has had it, but it's solid underneath. 👍

I had error 0654 pop up a while ago. This was drivers side belt tensioner. I popped off the b-pillar trim, cleaned the electrical connection (yellow one) at the base which cleared it. Can't remember if it needed clearing with VCDS but as I have a copy I probably did use it to clear it. Ross-Tech says: When "Short to positive" or "Short to ground" is found, DO NOT CLEAR THE DTC. This can cause the tensioner to deploy. See repair manual for more information. Looks like yours is resistance too high so you should be ok. Worth cleaning the connectors as a first step. My car has the side airbag option which was quite rare. No idea if this makes a difference to the side airbag sensor for the seatbelt? The Fabia can be a bit sensitive to slightly loose/dirty/corroded connections. I had a problem for years where my bulb out light would come on. No one could fix it but I cleaned the Xenon self leveling sensor connection & it cleared.

I get something similar intermittently. The passenger door unlocks itself after the anti-hijack locks the doors when moving. I've tried all sorts of sprays, checking wires, different button presses on the fob, VCDS etc etc. But if I just leave it, it seems to sort itself out. As Stewart above says, I'm sure it's the microswitch playing up. I've got a new door lock for the day it won't sort itself out.

I fitted a set of ST coils & springs last year as my original dampers & Eibach springs were 18 yrs old & the rebound damping was non-existent. The STs are excellent, well damped, not crashy & very comfortable. Much better than my previous tired set up. Good price & service from DPM too

I've fitted a Pioneer sph da230dab in a 2004 vRs. I bought it from a member here two to three years ago at a very reasonable price. Easy enough to install from memory. Just needed a new fascia trim piece & dab aerial. I got one which sticks to the windscreen & it works fine. I've not got any pics to hand but will try to remember to get some. It also allows a reversing camera if you fancy one.

My car fairly recently ticked over 100k after 18yrs ownership. I decided to replace all springs & shocks. I suspected they were a bit worn for while but persisted with them (no leaks or even misting). But due to a top mount advisory at the last MOT I thought now was a good time to replace. It had been on Eibach springs on std dampers within the first year or so (I've owned since new); this may have accelerated it's decline. It was surprising how little damping the old shocks were offering. New ST (by KW) kit, top mounts etc fitted and it's transformed it back. Peace of mind it was a good bit of preventative maintenance done. Fingerscrossed it'll last another 18yrs like the last set! Worth considering?

Brilliant thank you. Just threw me a tiny bit. They look the same as the rear brakes on my mk1 Fabia vRS & that does have shims. Thanks again

Thanks for the reply. Yes it does have 1KD as the build code. They seem fine without the shim & the set before didn't have them. I've looked at various guides & how to videos now & most don't have shims fitted including the autodoc video. They can't all be wrong? (Some are titled for a MK5 but the calipers & pads look the same). I guess, if it seems ok without, it probably is???