OccyVRS

Huh? He's in Croatia. That's definitely LHD!

I stuck a genuine AGM in mine - I've had enough battery problems. IIRC I wasn't able to do mine with OBD11 as it was a locked gateway/SFD and needed ODIS. SFD wasn't rolled out until 2020 so you should be fine - just a note for anyone reading this in the future.

It does all fit - the alu subframe is standard on the A3 and S3. I'm not sure what you've already done, but it would make sense to get some droplinks and do the ARB and such while you've got it all apart. You don't need alu arms, but something like the standard caster SuperPro LCAs are a nice upgrade for longevity with the polybushes. If you want to splash out, SuperPro, RL, 034 and others all make alu arms with nice bushings. I know the TT arms are alu, but not sure about the Passat. Either way, there are better options than OE - @travs went for... Delphi?

A) I meant in Europe (there is no recall in the UK as no RHD are affected, apparently) and B) as above, there are recalls in the EU.

No recall? Not what I've seen!

Sounds like they might need a bleed. Braking performance on a commute won't be down to pads or discs, unless you're running metal on metal!

Yes, although you'll want the TCU done in addition to the ECU. It's not about the extra power - it's about the power delivery and useability.

I've yet to see a stock TDI vRS. Go and see Darkside. If you're googling stuff - you're looking at the GTD. The EA288 tunes nicely.

Yes, that is true. My vRS rolls like the road is covered in epoxy (the brakes are nearly dead after 12,000 miles, but that's more down to me...)

No... because those bolts have all had the correct anti-corrosion treatment applied... The recall is due to the fact that some of these bolts in the steering system have been corroding prematurely.

Galvanic action (galvanisation is the protecting of components with zinc) occurs when two chemically dissimilar metals touch, while exposed to the electrolytes in water, sweat, or anything else. That’s why you often see rusty gym equipment. In fact, the exact same type of metal or alloy can be electrochemically dissimilar, depending on conditions, their makeup, etc, meaning that a steel subframe bolt can and will chemically interact with a steel subframe.

It should re-engage the clutches the second you apply any meaningful braking. It’s also a bit of a placebo effect - these engines don’t have any CoD/ACT, and all eco mode really does for the engine is reduce the effect your throttle input has. As in, it’s nothing on the engine side of things - it’s all in the throttle pedal/ECU. In all these cars, normal mode means 30% throttle input is 30% throttle. In “sport” mode, 30% input is 40% throttle, and then in eco, 30% input is 20% throttle. I often find cars respond unbearably slowly in eco modes, and the same effect can be had with driving more carefully in any other mode.

Although you can only change between D and S (and manual, of course), as the coasting and such is part of the Eco setting for the whole car. I drive long journeys in eco sometimes, although my car has the coasting mapped out.

I don't think that's correct. The only MQB cars with an alu subframe are the S3, RS3, GTI CS, R and top spec hot Cupras. I'm reasonably sure the vRS, GTI and nothing else has an alu one, let alone the Karoq, Kodiaq or whatever! I've got an issue with my steering (knocking from steering column/dash when wiggling side to side), so will be getting the car on a lift on Monday. It's unrelated, I'm sure, but talk about timing!

You get VAG jack pads, but they do sometimes require modification. If the slit is too narrow, it will peel away the undersea (if this hasn't already been done). If it's too wide, it won't support the pinch weld adequately. Common lift points are the front subframe (it's beefy) and the rear suspension points or beam. Again, make sure you have an adequate jack pad.