OccyVRS

To be fair, you’d be able to check the oil on any flat surface, be it the cargo hold of a 747 or the deck of an aircraft carrier.

What he said ^ Everything has been superseded by G12 Evo although, to be fair, I would personally just use what the car left the factory with, unless it’s a G13 car. If you Google it, there is a chart for mixing that shows what you can, and can’t, mix together.

Just be careful with the subframe alignment kit. Everything is designed to move a little bit, so that in a low-speed smash, a lot of the important stuff is protected. By sticking in those collars, you’re reducing any flex or wiggle room that oval holes and the like introduce, transferring the full energy of an accident to the subframe and more critical components. You’ll also find that, unless the car is brand new and has never been into a pothole, you will need the adjustment to get the car aligned! My car has never been in any sort of incident beyond a wheel kerbing, but without replacing half the steering and suspension system, it wouldn’t align properly were the subframe to be locked in place.

Remember that new tyres should be fitted to the rear of a vehicle. As others have said, a bush that has failed/worn to the extent of causing poor handling will be unlikely to fail an MOT upon visual inspection. Just as creaky @travs

I think you’ve answered your own question. You don’t need to improve the handling, you need to repair a component to restore handling. It’s likely a worn bushing - could be ARB, LCA, trailing arm, drop link, subframe, shocks, whatever. A common modification for these cars is to replace the stock RARB something 24mm or thicker - be it from a GTI CS or an aftermarket place like Hardrace, H&R, 034, IE, SuperPro, or Whiteline. It makes a big difference, but beware of going too stiff without changing other components to suit.

FWIW, they’re the same engine!

FYI, there is a for sale section 😂

I’d imagine the original cards were back in. I meant why those two cars specifically?

Check out the photo of the open rear door - that’s a sharps bin! Looks to be a fully custom interior. Either way, I wouldn’t discount it. At least you have photos of exactly what was where, should you go to view it. Out of interest, are these the only cars you’re looking at for a reason? I saw a few on there that sit on the middle ground.

Oh, I completely agree. I’d rather buy a car that has had a hard life, but been taken care of, than one seldom used and seldom serviced. Frankly, the only issue with emergency service vehicles is that they are often floored from cold, potentially left idling for a while, and take flight over speed bumps. Police cars are a different story - you won’t find a matching body panel.

I know, that’s why I attached the photos! They are of the exact car you are looking at, East Midlands Ambulance Service 3633 - FB19OHP. Hopefully the rear passenger door has been thoroughly cleaned.

Here's a video of its twin - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=73jYDqM6RaQ And potentially it - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-Mw3axLEcs I mean... at least you don't have to worry about the DPF.

Any sort of emergency vehicle is floored from the moment it is started, be it in summer or winter, left idling for hours and, as has been said, likely to have been messed with. No ex-emergency car is a 'good' buy, compared to anything else. Yes, they have been serviced properly and maintained, but they have had hard lives. That being said, is the 2010 car a TDI or TSI? I'd take the 2019 car any day over a TDI that has done 6k miles a year. On paper, at least, a 2019 car on 46k miles is very attractive. For everyone's viewing pleasure - 2010 Scout https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202608125020633?sort=relevance&twcs=true&searchId=f0d3de8b-2669-43ae-a4e8-fb63584a45c2&aggregatedTrim=Scout&make=Skoda&model=Octavia&page=1&postcode=cr08pn&year-from=2010&year-to=2011&advertising-location=at_cars&fromsra=&backLinkQueryParams=aggregatedTrim%3DScout%26channel%3Dcars%26make%3DSkoda%26model%3DOctavia%26postcode%3Dcr08pn%26sort%3Drelevance%26year-from%3D2010%26year-to%3D2011%26flrfc%3D1&calc-deposit=550&calc-term=48&calc-mileage=10000&calc-selected-product=PCP 2019 Scout https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202608064875987?sort=relevance&searchId=19d5eb1f-705c-4820-b878-5feb912bb3f5&aggregatedTrim=Scout&make=Skoda&model=Octavia&page=1&postcode=cr08pn&year-from=2019&advertising-location=at_cars&fromsra=&backLinkQueryParams=aggregatedTrim%3DScout%26channel%3Dcars%26make%3DSkoda%26model%3DOctavia%26postcode%3Dcr08pn%26sort%3Drelevance%26year-from%3D2019%26flrfc%3D1&calc-deposit=1000&calc-term=48&calc-mileage=10000&calc-selected-product=HP Here is the 2019 car dressed up -

Officially, in the UK, it is 30,000 miles or 3 years - whatever arrives sooner. This isn’t the thread I was thinking of @Evolution13 - I might have a dig for it. It wasn’t this old, and there was definitely an argument of some sort 😂 I do remember grabbing screenshots and quotes from various places.

I have the PS5s on the car now - I can’t say the carcass appears to be any different to the PS4s they replaced. I think I had Rimblades on my first car, but I haven’t kerbed a wheel since I was learning to drive. I’d rather spend the extra time parking, even if I look like a fool, than chunk my tyre or wheel. Not practical advice in this instance, though. The Gemini has a very proud outer lip - I think it looks quite good, but it is more vulnerable to damage. Nothing is going to protect it from being clobbered. I do think something like Rimblades will help but, as @vRSAnt says, they aren’t miracle workers - they do also need to be applied properly to a smooth, fresh surface. I can’t imagine they’ll adhere well to a chunked alloy. I suppose you could put a 235 on there? That is on the limit, though.