OccyVRS

For those reading this - if your car has an AGM battery (like the BMW does) then you will need a charger without a desulphation mode - this can damage an AGM batter (and isn't great for an EFB battery either). I'm saying this as the most popular CTEK charger, the MXS 5.0, charges at above 15V at various parts of the cycle, which isn't great. The CTEK CT5 (that I'm about to buy) doesn't have a desulphation mode, and charges below 15V. https://www.ctek.com/uk/battery-chargers-12v-24v/ct5-start-stop-uk?srsltid=AfmBOor6LTCZI083FGI6Z_N-ZvKD1bFGvF1Uhd_bhOf3fIvYG2PVwJ3m

Thank you, Nigel - I appreciate it! That's much in line with what I was thinking. Of course, one interesting thing I've realised is that the age of the car, really, doesn't matter much. An older car will have a smaller battery, but will have about two electrical things in it. A new car will have a much larger battery (start/stop aside), but will also have seventeen computers running 24/7. I would imagine with KESSY and the like, this will be even worse. The other consideration is that the alternator on a new(er) car doesn't seem to charge the battery all of the time when the car is moving. It sticks to around 80% as you say, but there are other variables too. I'd never had a battery go until the Octavia died last September, and it was an utter nightmare finding a new one and getting it coded in before a trip - not to mention the cost. Thank you for the information regarding the earthing point - I'm not sure why I didn't remember this. As you say, I should read the manual! From memory, I have the following charger. It will do the job, however I might take a walk to Halfords tonight and see what CTEK stuff they have - we're finding the BMW sits in the garage for longer periods, and with it being KESSY it might make sense to charge it between uses. A few hours (say five or six) will suffice, surely?

FYI, there are reasons people choose different oils. Let's take 5W-30. Simply put, the 5W part is the viscosity of the oil when cold, and the 30 part is the viscosity of it when hot. 0W is thinner when cold than 5W - modern Euro engines don't tend to do well with heavy, thick oils at a cold start. However, whether it's 0W or 5W in the UK won't really make much difference. The 30 part, the weight when hot, is more important. For example, my vRS runs on 20 weight, whereas most people like 30 or 40 weight. The thicker the oil is at temperature, the more protection it provides. In theory. The thinner oils are, really, used to help with emissions - thinner oils are more economical. So, who cares about emissions, let's just put a heavy weight in to protect the engine. The issue with this, however, is that it's not so simple. VW aren't stupid, and the engines have been adapted to run on this thinner oil - stuff like the variable oil pump has been optimised to run on the 20 weight at operating temp, and tolerances are also optimised. Sure, 30 weight offers better protection in the crankcase, but at what cost to the tighter tolerance bearings, etc? In reality, a thinner oil allows for a higher flow, which makes maintaining pressure easier. Less thick oil or more thin oil - same thing, really. My car is/was tuned and does get driven hard. I debated long and hard (just ask @Ootohere) about going to 0W-30, but decided in the end to just stick with what Skoda recommend. I even reached out to several (respected) VAG tuning places and they all said to stick with the recommendation from the manufacturer. The difference in protection might mean my engine has issues at 150,000 miles versus 165,000 miles - but I won't have it then. Sure, the difference in oil might make a difference (for better or for worse) but I don't believe going from 0W-20 to 0W-30 is going to make any huge difference. People use thicker oils as 'thinner oils are rubbish and offer no protection - it's all emissions crap'. Not all of this is untrue, but without being on the design team at VW and knowing exactly what changes were made to run on 0W-20, 0W-30, or whatever, I would just stick with the sticker. VW seem to have learned from this, as the earlier EA888.3 ran on 5W-30 and now the EA888.4 Evo runs on 0W-30, however I'm not losing any more sleep over it. [disclaimer for all the... people... on here - as mentioned above, many things are a generalisation. Talking about viscosity grades and centistokes probably isn't going to help OP.] Oh. Get VW spec too. There is a difference between an oil being suitable for the specification and being approved for the specification.

Just stick with the sticker. I wouldn't bother putting the plate into any sites. Stick with what Skoda recommended, unless the car is heavily tuned.

I’m interested to know how long we think a modern car will be able to sit for, before the battery starts to get a bit low? For context, I have a 2020 Octavia. The battery is just under a year old. Start/Stop is nearly always deactivated and the battery was at (I assume) a full state of charge. I last drove the car 10 days ago (2hr motorway journey) and it has sat on the driveway since. By the time I drive it again (I’m busy with work) it will be the end of the week - just over two weeks since it was last driven. I’ve been in it once, to unplug my CarPlay adapter and rescue my sunglasses. I’m interested to know two things. A) I’d like to know how long can the car reasonably sit for, before the battery starts to get low? And B) how long can the car sit for before damage to the battery starts to occur (due to discharge)? Bearing in mind, it’s summer now, not winter. I would hope to see what, three weeks before it gets low, and a month plus before damage starts to occur? Is it worth plugging it in to a charger, or for two weeks is that overkill? I know I should probably charge it, but the engine bay has no suitable ground, and I haven't got time to find one. I also don't fancy confusing the car by charging it with the negative connected to the battery, as for only two weeks this seems overkill? @nta16

It depends on the use. I have a Halfords charger (can't have been more than £40), but I only use it once a year. I've never actually used it on my Octavia! By the sounds of it, OP would use it far more regularly, so the cost of something a bit nicer starts to justify itself. Apple is made in China, and the quality of their stuff is superb. FWIW, and I can't believe I'm saying this, I do sort of agree. I'm not saying OP is like this, but the vast, vast majority of people just want to get in the car and go. If they have to charge the battery in their car, then having a nice charger that does everything for you probably takes the sting out of it a little bit - even if it was more expensive. I don't really think much about my battery (although the car has sat for two weeks without being driven, so when I next turn it on I will take it for a longer spin), but I'd get a more expensive charger if I were to leave it more often.

Look at the sticker - what does it say? My 2020 vRS (EA888.3) wants 0W-20, but FL Superb 280s (with the EA888.4Evo) want 0W-30. I debated going up to 5W-30 or 0W-30 but decided against it as there are differences that mean the engine is tuned to run on XYZ viscosity (albeit for emissions purposes).

Nothing wrong with putting a higher rating on a car - I'd just avoid going lower. The cars (MQB) are developed with Bridgestone, apparently, but that doesn't mean they're any good. My personal leaderboard, that I would choose from - 1) Michelin 2) Continental 3) Goodyear 4) Falken 5) Avon 6) Pirelli 7) Bridgestone 8) Everything else I've had good experiences with Maxxis too, actually. I tend not to keep anything spare anymore - I did for a good two/three years, and then realised that if I ripped the budget tyre off, there wasn't really a scenario in which a good 225/40R18 wouldn't be available.

Can't say I blame you. Do you cover the seat too? I trust their overalls even less.

I originally said if you email (their email) and speak to... I edited it as I wondered if that was why. I promise I'm not a spammer! 😂

I've replied, just waiting for my post to be approved for some reason.

I use skoda-parts.com for everything. Absolutely top service. If you email them, ask to speak with Jan Vorlik - he's their UK representative, and is ridiculously helpful. I used to use SEAT Direct Parts and Cox Brothers when I had my Leon, however there isn't really a UK alternative for Skoda (that is as well stocked). Skoda-parts.com get the stuff straight from the factory and also offer a few options (like genuine OE, OEM, aftermarket, etc). They're VAT registered so you pay what you see (I've ordered a £300 brake calliper from them) and although the postage can be a bit steep, it's not bad at all and the part is usually a good 30% cheaper than in the UK. I'm in no way affiliated with them - just a happy customer from many orders. They send the stuff with FedEx - usually takes about a week and a half to land at the door.

Rather than looking at the merits of the cars from a family perspective, let me offer some thoughts on the performance side of things. They are very different cars. The 1.5 is going nowhere fast, whereas the vRS is quite quick. It's nothing special, but it's just a bit more than average, whereas the 1.5 is just another car. If it's a 245 then it'll have a limited slip differential and big brakes - if not, then it'll still have big brakes at the front, but no diff and slightly less power. Either way, a 245bhp 2.0 and a 150bhp 1.5 aren't really comparable engines. Going manual is an interesting choice - it removes the aspect of DSG servicing but, if I'm honest, doesn't suit the car very well. I think if you want a manual, then something like a GTI or ST is more up your street. You won't be able to put anything smaller than a 17" wheel on the vRS, however the 18s are perfectly reasonable. I can't say I've thought about ride quality for more than two seconds, but I am a lot younger than most on here! With regard to trips to France, something that hasn't been mentioned on here is the ability of the vRS to do a better job. Let me explain. I've done similar journeys in a few cars (Scotland, France, even Italy) and found there are some issues with using a smaller engine. When empty all of the cars are very good (okay, the vRS is significantly better at overtaking, but my 150ps Leon wasn't bad at all, and even the old 1.4 A3 did the job). The issue came when the cars were loaded - either with people, or stuff. In the Skoda, I can't tell a difference. I can have four people and all their junk, and still be able to pass anyone I wish. The Leon... wasn't fantastic. Pulling out of short slip roads on the A1 was a bit of a challenge. It was doable, but it wasn't brilliant. That said, the Leon was a 2016 hatchback and quite a bit lighter than an Octavia. I would imagine the 1.5 Octavia to be similar to the Audi which, when heavy, was a bit of a job to get moving. Of course, still like fuel costs, running costs, maintenance costs - you know about. the 1.5 is newer, has more tech, will be cheaper to run and will be more comfortable. But it's just a car. The vRS is older, has less stuff (depends what you get - my 2020 has ACC, digital dash and everything I could want from a newer car, whilst still having buttons for the a/c) and will cost more, but is significantly better to drive in every aspect. If I'm honest, have you driven both? if it was between say, a 1.4 or 1.8 Leon I could understand, but if you want the drive of a 2.0 vRS then the 1.4 just isn't in the picture. Similarly, if you want the tech, modernity and comfort of the 1.5 then the vRS also shouldn't be in the picture. My vRS is the best car I've driven. It's nowhere near the fastest, largest, cheapest, best to drive, etc, but it just does such a good job of everything, it's unbelievable.

Understeer = probably controllable by most decent drivers Oversteer = probably a crash

I'd assume DPF, as air filters and GPF's aren't really candidates for cleaning. That said, PDF is written twice, so maybe OP has lost a file somewhere in the exhaust system? You never know. https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/dpf-replacement-tutorial.521165/https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/dpf-replacement-tutorial.521165/

Of the two, I'd get a T-Roc. I think they look better and have a nicer interior. I've driven a T-Roc R (not really a comparison) and it was nice. I've also driven an Arona FR and it was the worst car I've ever driven. I prefer my old VW Fox, and I could see the road through the floor. If it were me, I'd get a Formentor. I've driven one as a courtesy car and thought it drove quite nicely. They also look fantastic.

Have a look on decent threads. F47 is common, although I used F48.

I think you’re wasting your breath. Could also be this - https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/psa-us-golf-gtis-have-alarm-disabled-from-factory.7398842/

With the amount of electrics in a modern car, the battery gets drained faster, even though it is considerably beefier than those a few decades ago. The best option, really, is to buy a quality battery charger and hook it up for a few hours every weekend (CTEK do some good ones). Any decent charger can charge all types of battery, be it AGM, EFB, Lead Acid, or whatever. I would also try and take the car for a proper run every now and again - running it for short journeys around town will kill it early. For now, regarding the battery, it’s a fairly simple process - Go to a garage and get the battery drop tested. They will be able to remove the top cover (it looks like four little plastic clips) and get at the part number. If it’s end of life, you’ll have to cross the bridge of getting a new one coded in, by somewhere that knows what they’re doing - probably either Skoda, or a VAG Indie, to avoid any issues. If it’s not EOL then you can charge it up and go on your way - for now, anyway.

Either the right size Monte Carlo one from Skoda, or Kopacek. They even do factory paint match.

They have different uses. I personally have a PTFE spray and silicone grease as I feel this is the best use of each. PTFE is compatible with more surfaces, with similar lubricative properties to silicone. The difference is PTFE creates a surface on the item. As above, I would clean the seatbelts thoroughly (IPA?) and then carefully lubricate the mechanism with a PTFE spray, avoiding spraying the fabric belt. The reason I'd use PTFE is that it won't come off onto the belt, like silicone might. PTFE is also less prone to attracting dirt and, IMO, is a bit harder wearing. I would also maybe question the effectiveness of the locking system if the belt is all lubed up... I'd personally clean it and go from there. I don't like spraying stuff with lubricants that then goes all over my clothes.

The drivers belt on my Leon was not retracting properly - bit of a clean with some interior spray and it was working fine again. Just be careful with any sort of lubricant - it'll help now, but can also very easily attract dust and dirt along the line. You might find a can of compressed air (used to dust PC's and the like) along with a damp cloth might help. I'd try that before overspraying your interior with GT85 (WD40 also do a PTFE spray)

(Talking about reversing into a wall and the car stopping you, rather than the full on Front Assist emergency braking system)

The pump is with the washer bottle - by the drivers side wheel (remove the arch liner). If the pump is at least trying to do something, the issue is probably the piping. If the pump isn't doing something, the issue is probably the pump. It could be the stalk - does the rear wiper come on when you use the rear washer? if it does, then I doubt it's the stalk, as it's clear the signal is going to both rear wiper and pump (when it operates the front). My course of action would be to figure out how to replace the pump, and do it. I doubt it will be anything else, by the sounds of it. The pump is here, and the part number is 1K6 955 651. I don't know the specifics of how the pump works, but my money is on it having given up - be it a valve, motor, solenoid or however else it works. This is for a 2017 Golf, but it's the exact same car. Leave this thread a little bit and some others might be able to offer something more.

See @Ootohere's comment. I read the original thread and literally can't make any sense of it. In fact, I can't make any sense of their entire profile. Either this is the unluckiest and most confused person in the world, or it's someone that needs to find a job. A) Broken heater B) Key somehow loses charge after a day C) Car won't lock D) It's been stolen several times E) There is a draught coming from the floor At this point, we have to assume it looks similar to this - Of all the places on the internet to troll/have fun/scam people, who on earth picks a Skoda forum 😂