OccyVRS

AFAIK there is only one pump. If you can hear it when operating the front, but not when operating the back then I'm not sure. Faulty stalk maybe? I can't see another reason for it to not work for the rear when it works for the front. If it makes a sound for both, but there's no water, then there can be a blockage anywhere in the system. Have you seen any washer fluid dripping? It's quite common for the hose to pop off.

Axle geometry being the thrust angle, I believe. Issue is, I’ve no idea if the thrust angle is different now to what it was calibrated with… Frankly, as long as it holds the speed, I don’t really care. I might send an email off to Skoda to see the price, but looking on forums it’s around £400+, which I’m not spending unless something is broken!

Following on from a topic in the Mk4 section, is there any truth to this? I can see how an alignment would affect the Lane Assist, but the ACC..? It looks like it’s definitely a thing, but then again so is regassing your air con every two years and nobody bothers with that. I had a bit of an issue with the alignment on my subframe, so just curious.

Which makes sense, but is there really a need to calibrate the system (camera) every time the alignment/tracking is adjusted? I can't imagine it's cheap.

Generally it's the supplying dealership that performs a PDI. AFAIK, with VW, the car is aligned as it is built. Some manufacturers do a brief check at the end, but generally it's done as they go. BTW @Ootohere any idea if this is a thing? I don't really see how it holds water, but you never know. VWROC - VW R Owners ClubAll alignment must be done by VW due to ACC Calibration.I spoke to a technician in VW today who explained to me that any wheels alignments must now be done by VW, as they will also need to incorporate the alignment of the ACC. Aligning the wheels withou...

I've not dealt with Audi parts, but skoda-parts.com is absolutely fantastic. That said, Skoda (UK) did want to charge me £920 inc VAT for a drivers door card, which I thought was a bit of a joke considering it's just crap plastic. It's not just VAG, it's everyone. The emphasis is on how they can make money after you've bought the car - often second hand. if you're buying a car from a private seller, VWAG aren't making anything... so, how can they earn from you? Simple - by making it that you have to visit a dealer when you want a battery replaced, or go to an indie that has paid a small fortune for (sometimes limited) access to tooling. When you take away ICE cars, suddenly servicing provides a lot less income - roll on the air con recharging and the other million things you don't need. @EMike perhaps it's just me, but I'm confused. The battery information, on the top, should be accessible without removing anything? Regardless, again, a new battery has to be coded in. It's not a big job, but it must be done. The new battery, even if from the same batch, will need coding in. Otherwise, the car won't know you've got a new battery, won't know the charge condition, the battery health, or anything else associated with it. Every battery will have slightly different characteristics, despite being the same - the car needs to know. The alternator and ECU on cars are smart, and don't always charge the battery, all the time. @johnny cabbage head I did try this, but I still had no luck. My car is SFD1 (I think) so not entirely sure why. I ended up just getting my Indie to do it, as I had a big trip coming up and didn't want any issues (years ago, on an A3, we had Halfords code in a battery, which led to random issues like the horn, wipers and locking intermittently dying) - noted for next time, though, thank you.

I'd double check that they're doing it all, however the tech would have to be pretty special to try and sort the tracking and not the alignment. It's all done on the same machine, as part of the same process. Aside from that, hope you enjoy the car! Mine is a few years older, but I absolutely love it.

Couple of things. Firstly, the ADAS (Advanced Driver Assist Systems) is completely irrelevant - that's stuff like braking assist, blind spot assist, lane keep, etc. None of that will have a bearing on the alignment of the vehicle. For example, I recently replaced my control arms, and while the steering was all over the place, on the way to the alignment place the lane assist (as an experiment) had no issue keeping me straight. Secondly, the dealership should be able to do an ADAS recalibration - I'm not sure where else you'd really want to go to have one done. A PDI (pre delivery inspection) does not usually involve an alignment, so while the car should come straight and true, it's not uncommon for it not to. That being said, it's entirely possible for the suspension system of a car to be aligned and true, while the steering system is a bit wonky. It's not ideal, but it can happen - usually if the tie roads are replaced. In this case I'm not too sure, maybe someone slipped up on the assembly line - the car is usually aligned as it is built. The track rod ends/tie rods are the final link between the steering wheel and the wheels - by lengthening or shortening them, you adjust the angle of the wheel, relative to the rest of the rack. So yes, adjusting the track rod ends should sort this issue. That said, I personally don't think a car can be aligned, if the steering is off-centre. I would get them to sort the steering (tracking), which will also involve a full four wheel alignment. Sorted. Even on a brand new car, nothing will ever be perfect - within factory tolerances is all you're after. It's a brand new car though, so make sure they do everything - caster, rear wheels, thrust angle, the lot. An issue with the caster on my car is how I realised the front subframe wasn't in the right place.

Depending on what OBD tool you're using, the ABS sensor might just throw a pending/intermittent fault code, if the fault is not 'warning light level'. The same can happen for misfires, etc. Not entirely sure what you're on about re the EPB.

Yes - I am confusing them. My girlfriend's dad has just bought a Passat MHEV with the 1.5 and 48V battery, and I seem to be thinking about that. None of the Covid cars did very well - most sat for months, while those built during it were missing options due to the chip shortages.

Pretty standard. I remember mine was like a Christmas tree when the battery went - everything from ACC to the reverse lights. When the module voltage drops below what it likes, the module will panic and log a code. Skoda will sort it all out. For the 48V yes, however AFAIK for the 12V no - the only way is to either manually charge it or drive around. I suspect it's because in their head, when driving on EV mode the battery still gets to charge - otherwise the alternator wouldn't be doing anything.

No it's true - the 12V battery charges from the drivetrain, rather than an alternator. It's interesting as it means having the engine running would have no impact on jump starting another car, for example. I think it's a bit stupid (I also think they could have designed a system to draw charge from the 48V battery) but there we go.

There are plenty topics on this. A recent one is here. I've attached a photo of the install on my car = it can be a very clean job and only take a couple of hours. I ran it through the front camera housing, and then used a Dremel to cut the hole in the plastic. The part is about £6.50 and it's easily replaceable if you want to reverse it. In short, you need to find a place on the windscreen for the dashcam, find the right fuse to tap into, find a suitable grounding/earthing point and then run the cable from the fuse box, up to the camera via the headliner and a pillar. The second photo is the grounding location I used - one of the dash bolts. Generally, unless you want parking mode to work (you don't), you'll want to tap into an ignition live fuse - something like the rear wiper, for example. In your case, looking at the diagram here, something like F20 (rear window heating) will do nicely. Do be aware you also have the option to tap into an unused fuse - in my car, I chose to use the lane change assist, as my car doesn't have it. I've used cloth tape along the whole length of the dashcam cable to protect it and stop any vibration - this isn't needed, but it's nice to do a proper job. Do be aware of the airbag in the a pillar - you will need to remove the pillar trim and put the cable behind it, not just stuff it into the side. Of course, all of this is irrelevant if you have the USB-C port in the rear mirror housing. #simplyclever It's not a big job, and everything is fairly straight forward. I would do it yourself, as then you know it's a good job. My OCD wasn't happy unless there was no visible cable - okay, there is an inch or two, but I can live with that. I use a Nextbase 622GW - bit overkill, but I also use it for recording performance-y stuff. I've heard good things about Blackvue and Viofo, although I like the fact I can hide mine behind the mirror, out of view. Do be aware, if you don't want to hide it, you can get a little telephoto plugin for the side of a Nextbase camera - it'll then do the rear view, without having to run a separate camera. It's not quite as good, but it'll do - especially if you don't want to pull the headliner on a new car.

Just an FYI - on my 2020 Octavia I was (for some reason) unable to code it in with VCDS. Apparently the car has a locked gateway. I had to go down to my VAG indie that has ODIS. As has been said, the days of simply swapping the battery over ended over ten years ago. This 'specialist' might not be very specialist. Either an EFB or AGM will do. Just get the correct battery for the car and get it coded in.

What he said ^ Most PHEVs will have some sort of connection either in the boot, or the engine bay. Is the second post in this thread true @Cairus? I'd phone Skoda - maybe a new battery is the preferred solution.

Yes - the 48V system is irrelevant. Either your battery is dead (most likely scenario) or you've got a failure elsewhere. It's very unfortunate it's happened in a car park, but hey, I suppose there could be worse places - at least access is fairly limited and it's not like anyone will be going anywhere in it! If there's no power and it's fully unlocked the you can't lock it anyway - the key only works for the drivers door. My personal choice would be to get a battery booster, get back there in a few hours, and at least try to lock the car. I'm not sure I'd leave it unlocked in a car park overnight, even in Finland.

Regardless, the HV system could be at a full SoC and still have no impact on anything if the 12V battery/system is dead. I would suggest the issue lies within the 12V system - regardless of the HV system, KESSY system or whatever else, there should be some signs of life in the vehicle. @Octawia my suggestion would be to establish if the 12V battery is dead or not. If it is, you have the problem (for now - you’ll have to figure out why it died). If it’s charged, the issue is elsewhere. I’m unsure of the procedure regarding topping up/using a battery booster on a PHEV, but others will be able to advise. I also see no reason why a manual unlock and bonnet release isn’t possible if the battery is entirely dead. The only question I do have, for you right now - does locking/unlocking the car manually definitely work? I believe it should be, but I would still check. I’d also get in touch with Skoda and a proper recovery company (first thing in the morning now) as you might have issues getting that EPB to release if the car is entirely dead.

There is a pyrofuse, but that's not to do with the 12V battery. I suspect whatever the issue is, is under the bonnet. AFAIK there is no fuse that will cut off power to the entire car from the 12V battery. I may be wrong. If the car is dead due to the battery, then it is completely dead. I've never really seen a battery die fully - there is always enough to at least make the alarm light flash or something.

+1 for opening the bonnet now, although that said you should still be able to get in manually. AFAIK even if the key is completely dead, the car should show some sign of life. I was meaning 12V battery not as necessarily the battery itself, but that system. That is the only failure that would cause the car to die entirely, with nothing working. To stick it into neutral manually you'll need to lift up the DSG shifter facia and find the little yellow level. Then you have to release the EPB - I've no idea how to do that. It could well be the key, but if it was dead then I doubt it would unlock itself and then die a second later. It also doesn't explain the dead car.

@Ootohere will probably know who best to ask. I believe your issue is with the 12V battery - even if the main battery is charged, without the 12V you're going nowhere.

I'm after the main subframe bolts - everywhere I've seen has mentioned four of them (the parts list on the right has two of 6 and 8). I believe it's 6, 8, 8 and then the final one is by the number 1. It is the worlds shi**iest diagram. I'll confirm I'm after 6/8 and then probably just order some 5s and whatever else too - they're even cheaper from skoda-parts.com so I think I'll live. For anyone finding this thread in 2045 when they're building their retro Octavia drag car, those part numbers are all correct. I've confirmed with my friendly dealer parts guy, as well as a few other places. You'll probably be able to 3D print them from your phone by then or something, but still.

Thank you - N10785401 is what I'm seeing. The diagram only seems to suggest three are needed (8, 8 and 6) but I know there's four - I think the fourth is by the 1.

Thank you. Does anyone have an idea of the required part number? I’d like to have some idea before I phone the dealer parts lot!

Now that I think about it, my first car (2006 Fox) did have an aftermarket alarm. I didn’t give it much thought - I presumed the previous owner was just safety conscious. I never considered it didn’t have one!

Legally, it has to have an immobiliser, but no alarm. That said, I'd love to see a car made after 2000 that hasn't got an alarm (that isn't a track car or something silly). How are you locking the car? I only ask as a double press of the lock button will lock the doors, but not deadbolt them, making it easier to open. I don't think the alarm is disengaged though. Are you KESSY - in range of the car?