OccyVRS

I always thought if you pressed the SOS button, Bruce Willis would come and fast rope down from a Blackhawk to rescue you. Turns out it just connects you to a call centre. No bad thing, but I'm not sure it's anything groundbreaking. Then again, if you've rolled it and are injured, it could be one of those things (like What3Words) that will save your life.

"Oooh look at that Marc, dual exit exhaust, AMG grille, 19" wheels and drilled brakes - that must be a 450bhp CLA45S" A200. 160bhp. Ugh. I reckon I'll have the Octavia for another four/five years, I think. It's just crossed 40k and with the use I give it, it will be just topping 100k and 10 years old. That's about as long as I'd run a car that requires some more expensive parts than the average car - especially with the water pump issues, DSG and everything. Certainly, I'd hope to ditch it just before timing chain time. I do runs to the North of Scotland several times a year (in one hop), so I do have a practical use for an utterly reliable car capable of doing longer distances. Mind you, at that point it'll be 2029 or 2030. How many manufacturers will still make mainstream ICE cars? I think the average MQB car be discontinued by then, and the replacements are all electric, or hybrid at the very best. So, maybe I'll keep Occy as a second car ;)

Yeah... I go to Halfords for screen wash and that's about it. I wouldn't trust them to open my fuel cap. I always like to go to an independent place. Especially when swapping tyres from one set of wheels to another, it's always been the independent places that have carefully wrapped up the wheels for the boot.

I share your physical proportions, although I'm 6 1" - the Octavia is the first car that has seats that 'fit' me properly! My dad's 118i, nice though the seats are, simply don't fit me - the bolsters are too tight, and too low. I would suspect a Mk1 GTI is actually smaller/lighter than the Fox - just look at how big a current Polo is, compared to a Mk4/5 Golf. In my view though, nothing can make up for weight with regard to handling on modern cars. The new M5 is an absolute monster, but even with ceramic brakes that can stop the Solar System and the best suspension BMW M has to offer, that 2.4 tons can't be hidden. I've been in one, and while 720bhp is... adequate... it feels like a driving a container ship. I agree too with the DSG, etc - doing 100mph in a 3.0 A6 is like doing 50mph in a Mk1 Golf. Newer cars build up speed so easily, with such little input from the driver. Mine is 245ps stock, however until fairly recently it was up near the 345bhp mark. When I got the insurance renewal, I decided to take it back to stock(ish), as I didn't fancy paying an extra 150% (yep!) just to have power I wouldn't use. At some point it'll return to a more sensible 310-320bhp, but for now 240ish is enough. Correct with the coolant gauge - I can't remember the parameters but it's something like 80-120 degrees, and it still reads 90. Only once it gets above 120 or whatever, does it then rise. #VAG I started a thread about oil yesterday. Bottom line is, stick with what the manufacturer recommends, unless your car is seeing extreme use or is heavily tuned. As an aside, I spoke to several tuning places (one of which runs a 1400bhp Audi R8) and even they said to just stick with (in my case) 0W-20. Actually - mine has a digi dash, and in RS mode you can see the power being used in kW. It's not very helpful (as I can't multiply the power figure by 1.34 when driving), but the gauge progression gives you an idea of what you're using.

You and I both - I can feel my brain shrivelling up. 235/35R19 will be absolutely fine. Going to this size will change the speedo inaccuracy, but we're talking 0.7% (I think it was). You can still do 52 in a 50 - you'll just be doing 50.4mph rather than 50.1mph. 235 is a very common size - if I were to go up to 19" (albeit with a wider wheel) that is the size I would go for. They tend to be cheaper too. Technically a 235 is on the upmost end of what you want to use on a 7.5" wheel, but it'll be fine. Be aware though that the increase in grip... won't.... and if the design of the Xtreme is anything like the 18" Gemini, then going up a width still won't offer any rim protection.

No. IMO a 235/45R19 is too large. You'll have an 8% speedo inaccuracy, meaning at 60mph true you'll be seeing 55mph (when you should be seeing 62mph or so). That is nearing the legal limit of speedo inaccuracy. https://www.willtheyfit.com Will you have issues with clearances? I'm not sure. I know several people that run 245 or even 255 on their Octavia, but that's with an 8.5J wheel and non-standard suspension. A 235 is also the maximum tyre you should ideally put on a 7.5J wheel. https://www.tyres-pneus-online.co.uk/tyre-equivalence-advice.html As a rule of thumb, you can change one thing, but one increment. So, going from a 225 to 235, or a 40 profile to a 45. Your stock profile is 35, so even going to 235/40R19 isn't ideal, let alone a 45 profile. @Carlston will be able to advise more, but IMO a 235/45R19 is not a good idea. That is of course not to mention that, AFAIK, the tyre size is not type approved for the car.

Lots of people say how bad the One Click Apps are, but I personally haven't had any problems. That said, I've only used mine for the alarm lock/unlock sound in the Octavia. In my Leon I had that, gauge sweep and a few other things enabled/disabled too, without issue. Yes, you don't know what is going on behind the scenes, however for minor adaptations I don't think it's a huge problem. As long as you figure out exactly what you're changing, confirm that your car/modules are compatible and can do it, I see no major issue. The problems arise when people do twenty-five things to the car, half of which aren't compatible and then get stuck going back. IMO the One Click Apps are reasonably useful and reliable, but not all of them, and you need to do some research first. Would I do things differently, if I knew then what I knew now? Yes, I would long code the adaptation in. However, I don't think I'll have any problems with what I did - it's been 11,000 miles and over a year since then. BTW, happy to be corrected and/or guided how to check everything is okay. At some point in the new few weeks, I plan to get PRO and make sure all the adaptations are in order.

Generally, unless it's causing you problems, just leave it. For now, anyway. Depending on the use, you might wish to get the fluid changed (both gearbox and MCU) as you approach 100k miles or so. I wouldn't do it before 80k, but if it takes you a decade to get there then doing it sooner may, as you say, be a good idea. I can't remember the general advice on a DQ200 (as in, what people/places recommend you do) but @Ootohere will.

Don't bother with run flats - they are expensive and offer awful ride. A more rigid carcass will, if anything reduce the quality of ride. If you are concerned with pure comfort but don't want 17", then going to an 18" with some sort of all-season tyre would be the best bet. UHP summer tyres are often stiffer and nosier than other tyres, whilst also having a softer compound and thus not lasting as long. I swear by PS5s, but my use case is likely a bit different to yours.

CarPlay creates its own network and uses that, along with Bluetooth (to establish the initial connection). You can use the car hotspot AND wireless CarPlay, but you can't then connect to the hotspot with the device itself - that's just trying to connect to too many wireless networks. It's the same as trying to connect with CarPlay and the WiFi in your house - the phone just can't do it. For 3, mine does the same thing sometimes - there are settings on the phone to fix this (I can't remember what - auto connect or something). It's likely they were ticked, or unticked, when you first tried it.

Anything CarPlay/AA was post-2016, no?

I normally sit around 95-105 when moving, however when in heavy summer traffic I've seen it get up to 112. Everything is fine though - if I've just hooned it up the A31 and smacked straight into standstill traffic on the M25 in 33 degree heat, I can't say I'm surprised the oil is that warm. That was when the car was putting out just under 350bhp too - it sat very happily for fifteen hours up to Scotland, with rock solid oil and coolant temps. That's my only real complaint with the engine on the vRS/GTI - smaller turbo is fine, but I wish they had a DSG and aux cooler like the more powerful EA888s. I use Castrol C5 - specifically Castrol EDGE 0W-20 LL IV. When I get the Octavia I did the tyres, followed by the brakes all round. This year, I've had the DSG done, along with the LSD, plugs, coolant and other bits. Some of it isn't required at the current mileage, but I prefer to do preventative maintenance. Not actually sure re bumping the Fox, but if I'm completely honest, I didn't care. It was bought for £900 and did a happy 15,000 miles with us as a town car. When we scrapped it for £200, it was actually fixed and driven around for another 18 months. Sadly, now, it looks to be Coke cans.

I don't believe it's a known issue with them, however I'm also not an expert on Goodyear car tyres. See what National Tyres say, and let us know. You've given them normal use, and maintained them more than the average person would. I haven't done my tyre pressures in a few months - I must do that soon. My money now would be on Michelin or Continental. Crossclimate 3 might be worth a look - not sure on your usage but it doesn't sound like SportContact or Pilot Sport are really needed. It's worth saying that tyres aren't impervious to nasty stuff on the roads - I doubt you have, but I suppose you could have driven through spilled acid on the A1 😂 Just be careful in case they try to suggest that.

In all fairness to myself, the Fox came with a knackered battery! It served its purpose well - no frills (okay, air con would have been nice), but was perfectly suited to the use I wanted. In actual fact, it had the most headroom out of any car I’ve owned. I agree though, the occasional top up is all that is required. I’ve done a lot of driving over the last few years (I haven’t been in London) so we’ll see how my use changes. I tend to turn off S/S not for the battery, but because I hate it. I don’t like how it’ll stop the engine a minute after a cold start, and I don’t like how it’ll stop the engine every two seconds in traffic when the oil is at 115 degrees. I can’t help but feel it puts so much strain on the engine, all for not much benefit. Equally, for the battery, the starting process is the most stressful thing it does - surely doing it twenty times in one journey really can’t be good for it… Side note, is there a reason the battery is only charged to 75-80%? I’m aware that fully charging or discharging other (lithium) batteries isn’t good for them (actually, for a LiPo, the theoretical recommendation was between 40% and 80%), however I wasn’t aware lead acid batteries suffered from the same issue?

Things are different now. Manuals used to tell you how to change the steering rack - now they tell you not to drink the contents of the battery. Armed with a workshop manual and a knack for doing things, I’ve learned most of the stuff on my cars myself. Most people aren’t that mechanically minded these days though, so it’s more difficult. If people are willing to get underneath their car and spend some hours on Google, then they are welcome on forums like this. If they’re uninterested in learning, figuring it out themselves or simply want an easy answer, then I’m personally not so sure. I am/was a humanities student. I’ve had no training on anything, really, and I get on alright.

I would be reaching out to Goodyear. Those tyres were made in mid-May of 2023. I would not expect premium two year old tyres to have cracking like that. While I don’t disagree with the above, I run Pilot Sport 5s (UHP summer tyre) all year round. The tyres on the front of my car are from early 2024, and have no issues. Bearing in mind, they’ve been rim deep in snow a few times. They’ve also had some very hard driving, with multiple tyre-squealing and 350bhp FWD launch-controlling occasions. UV does cause cracking and degradation of the rubber, but realistically this is over a period closer to ten years than two IMO. Loading, pressure and temperature do have an impact, but again, unless they were significantly overloaded or under/overfilled, I doubt that would cause this. FYI, I did some maths on the Octavia a few months ago in response to a post, and worked out that it is realistically impossible to overload (with respect to tyre ratings) a Skoda Octavia vRS fitted with the correct tyres, before the boot floor collapses. Certainly, unless you live in Shetland and carry cinder blocks around, I’m not convinced, especially as you’re in balmy Cambridge. While winter tyres are nice to have, you don’t need them in Southern England. The Eagle F1 is a UHP tyre, but it’s not a Pilot Cup 2. Out of interest, how many miles do you do a year? With what sort of use? Unless those tyres have had really hard use, I don’t think their condition is right. I only ask as those tyres look in worse condition than my Pilot Sport 4s after 16,000 miles, and those were a really soft compound. The sidewalls look as expected, but the edge of the blocks and the rubber around the cracks look quite tired IMO.

Let’s be honest - whether it’s 0W-30 or 5W-30, it won’t kill it. The same with my car - it’s meant for 0W-20, parts are optimised for 0W-20, yet so many people run it on 5W-30 or even 5W-40 (okay, they’re mainly heavily tuned GTIs in the US, but same thing). I plan to keep my car for a while, hence why I’m keen to make sure it has the right oil. If you plan to ditch your car before it hits 60,000 miles, ultimately, put something VW in and call it a day. Oil choice between a 0W-20 and 0W-30 is only going to matter north of 100k miles, or if the car is heavily tuned, in my opinion.

The solution I've just used - Find your workshop manual here - https://easymanuals.com Engine code, oil type, sorted. I already had my manual saved on a thumb drive from last year, however I don't think it was too expensive. £20 maybe? It's the proper 25,000 whatever page workshop manual, but take your time and you'll find it near the start.

Skoda Service Manual to the rescue. I completely forgot I had a copy that I used when refitting the dashboard last year. DKTB engine code - VW 508 00. Result.

He is saying that for his DNFE, it wants 0W-30! For your CJXA, not sure. As mentioned, I think we have found the answer - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/534258-engine-oil/#comment-5960830 For variable servicing, your car takes VW 504 00. Just as was said - 🙂

Fixed servicing is when you car has to have a service at 10k miles. Variable is when the car determines when it needs servicing or after 12 months, whichever is sooner. Yours is normal (variable), therefore it's 504 00/5W-30. Either way, go back to your own post! This is for my Octavia 😂

Yours does say - VW 504 000

In this case, I don't think it actually matters. Whether it's a 2017 or a 2018, it's not a GPF car.

Do you have a link to the manual that shows what oil is suitable for what engine? I've looked at 2018 and 2019 manuals and can't find it. I agree - hence why I'd like to find out, for definite. If I'm honest, at this point, it's more about me than it is the car. I just find it incredible that, ultimately, I am forced to email/call up a random dealer service department and ask them. I know that all 245s (Mk3) want 0W-20, however in reality this is based on stuff I've read online, and the word of strangers. Yes, I know the info here is reputable and yes, I know I am 99% sure it wants 0W-20, but a part of me just wants to see it written somewhere in the engine bay. Do I need to find someone with access to Erwin (or pay myself) in order to see service records and hope I can see the oil used? It cannot be this difficult.

The reason he is asking is that there are sometimes overlaps. For example, my car has a 2020 build date, yet parts sites don't understand that a 2020 can be a Mk3.5 - they all assume it's a Mk4, which mine isn't. This is not to mention that when I say I have a 2020 vRS, people assume it is a Mk4. If it were a 17 plate then it could very possibly be a 2016 car (and vice versa, a 67 plate could be a 2018 car). Okay, in this case it's not as important, however the GPF came in a year later in 2019, and thus a 68 plate may or may not have one, and a 2019 plate may or may not have one. You get my drift.